BYOAC OLD Wiki - User contributions [en]

Arcade-In-A-Box

2008-04-11T07:56:31Z

Apollo:

* '''Project Type:''' Arcade Console
* '''Construction Method:''' Manufactured
* '''Monitor Type:''' TV, Monitor, Projector, High Definition
* '''Interface Type:''' iPac2
* '''Special Controls:'''
* '''OS:''' WindowsXP home
* '''Homepage:''' http://www.arcadeinabox.com

 
== Additional Details ==
All-in-one arcade console. VGA, RCA and High Definition outputs mean you can plug this box into any video source and enjoy your favorite classic and modern pc games.

 
== Pictures ==
[[image:Arcade-In-A-Box.jpg]]

 

==See Also==
* [[Vendors]]
* [[Examples]]
* [[Desktop_Controls|Back to Desktop Controls Examples]]

[[Category:Examples]]
[[Category:Vendors]]

Arcade Depot

2008-04-11T07:55:24Z

Apollo:

[http://www.arcadedepot.com Home Page]

Arcade Depot sells a line of cocktail cabinet parts and kits. Complete cabinets, sets of wood pieces necessary to construct a cabinet, control panel blanks, bezels and graphics are all available.

==See Also==
* [[Vendors]]

[[Category:Vendors]]

Arcade Depot

2008-04-11T07:54:04Z

Apollo:

[http://www.arcadedepot.com Home Page]

Arcade Depot sells a line of parts and kits related to the construction of cocktail cabinets. This includes complete cabinets, sets of wood pieces necessary to construct a cabinet, control panel blanks, bezels and graphics.

==See Also==
* [[Vendors]]

[[Category:Vendors]]

Arcade Depot

2008-04-11T07:53:46Z

Apollo:

[http://www.arcadedepot.com Home Page]

Arcade Depot sells a line of parts and kits related to the construction of cocktail cabinets. This includes a complete cabinets, sets of wood pieces necessary to construct a cabinet, control panel blanks, bezels and graphics.

==See Also==
* [[Vendors]]

[[Category:Vendors]]

LED-Wiz

2008-04-11T07:50:39Z

Apollo:

[[image:ledwiz.jpg|thumb|right|The LED-Wiz circuit board]]

The '''LED Wiz''' is a product designed to drive multiple LEDs. A key feature is control of the the color using a combination of red green and blue LEDs. The general idea is that lighting translucent or transparent plastic buttons with the color of the original arcade game buttons can help a player figure out which buttons need to be used during emulation of various games.

Several people have worked together on the software required to make this a reality.

==See Also==
* [[Finishing]]

[[Category:Finishing]]

LED-Wiz

2008-04-11T07:48:37Z

Apollo:

[[image:ledwiz.jpg|thumb|right|The LED-Wiz circuit board]]

The '''LED Wiz''' is a product designed to drive multiple LEDs. A key feature is control of the the color using a combination of red green and blue LEDs. The general idea is that lighting translucent or transparent plastic buttons with the color of the original arcade game buttons may help a player figure out which buttons need to be used during emulation of various games.

Several people have worked together on the software required to make this a reality.

==See Also==
* [[Finishing]]

[[Category:Finishing]]

LED-Wiz

2008-04-11T07:47:34Z

Apollo:

[[image:ledwiz.jpg|thumb|right|The LED-Wiz circuit board]]

LED Wiz is a product designed to drive multiple LED's. A key feature is control of the the color using a combination of red green and blue led's. The general idea is that lighting translucent or transparent plastic buttons with the color of the original arcade game buttons may help a player figure out which buttons need to be used during emulation of various games.

Several people have worked together on the software required to make this a reality.

==See Also==
* [[Finishing]]

[[Category:Finishing]]

LED-Wiz

2008-04-11T07:47:13Z

Apollo:

[[image:ledwiz.jpg|thumb|right|The LED-Wiz circuit board]]

LED Wiz is a product designed to drive lots of LED's. A key feature is control of the the color using a combination of red green and blue led's. The general idea is that lighting translucent or transparent plastic buttons with the color of the original arcade game buttons may help a player figure out which buttons need to be used during emulation of various games.

Several people have worked together on the software required to make this a reality.

==See Also==
* [[Finishing]]

[[Category:Finishing]]

Lighting

2008-04-11T07:42:47Z

Apollo:

'''Lighting''' will be needed for the marquee area of your cabinet and is usually provided by either a fluorescent strip light, or several incandescent bulbs.

Coin returns may also be lit if your cabinet features them.

It is also possible to light up the buttons on your control panel. Knievel has created a nice writeup on how to effectively light translucent [[Pushbuttons#Leafswitch Pushbuttons|leafswitch pushbuttons]] which can be found [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,30565.msg257830.html here]. Work is also currently being done in this area with the [[LED-Wiz]]

==See Also==
* [[Lighting Microswitch Buttons]]
* [[FX Buttons]]
* [[Lighting Leaf Switch Buttons]] (LiteMite module)
* [[Finishing]]

[[Category:Finishing]]
[[Category:Index]]

Lighting

2008-04-11T07:42:28Z

Apollo:

'''Lighting''' will be needed for the marquee area of your cabinet and is generally provided by either a fluorescent strip light, or several incandescent bulbs.

Coin returns may also be lit if your cabinet features them.

It is also possible to light up the buttons on your control panel. Knievel has created a nice writeup on how to effectively light translucent [[Pushbuttons#Leafswitch Pushbuttons|leafswitch pushbuttons]] which can be found [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,30565.msg257830.html here]. Work is also currently being done in this area with the [[LED-Wiz]]

==See Also==
* [[Lighting Microswitch Buttons]]
* [[FX Buttons]]
* [[Lighting Leaf Switch Buttons]] (LiteMite module)
* [[Finishing]]

[[Category:Finishing]]
[[Category:Index]]

Lighting

2008-04-11T07:41:44Z

Apollo:

'''Lighting''' will be needed for the marquee area of your cabinet and is generally provided by either a fluorescent strip light, or several incandescent bulbs.

Coin returns may also be lit if your cabinet features them.

Recently builders have begun to experiment more with lighting the control panel pushbuttons. Knievel has created a nice writeup on how to effectively light translucent [[Pushbuttons#Leafswitch Pushbuttons|leafswitch pushbuttons]] which can be found [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,30565.msg257830.html here]. Work is also currently being done in this area with the [[LED-Wiz]]

==See Also==
* [[Lighting Microswitch Buttons]]
* [[FX Buttons]]
* [[Lighting Leaf Switch Buttons]] (LiteMite module)
* [[Finishing]]

[[Category:Finishing]]
[[Category:Index]]

Sideart

2007-07-16T01:13:39Z

Apollo:

Many classic arcade cabinets featured striking and often elaborate art work. Games such as Joust, Galaga and Defender are famous just as much for their game play as for their art work. The side-art, similar to the marquee art, was designed to attract people to a particular game. Side-art was applied in a variety of ways the main methods being silk screen printing, adhesive stickers and spray painted stencils.

==See also==
* [[Marquee]]
* [[Bezel]]
* [[Control panel]]

Creating Your Own Art From Scratch

2007-06-06T03:50:03Z

Apollo: /* How to be a good designer */

__NOTOC__
= How to be a good designer =
Good design is a mix of both science and art. If you have any question about what great art can do for a for a cabinet just take a look at the classics: Defender, Joust, Ms Pac Man etc all have themes that are very cohesive, creative and have an extremely polished appearance. Some of the later conversion cabinet kits were not themed as well and they look pale in comparison. To make sure that your cabinet theme looks like it was created by a professional try to take some lessons from those classic designs. There are no hard and fast rules but the following are good things to keep in mind when it comes to cabinet artwork.
* Keep each piece cohesive with the rest. The marquee, control panel, side art, and cabinet paint job should look like they belong together.
* Use matching colors. A tool like [http://www.easyrgb.com/harmonies.php Easy RGB] can give you suggestions of matching colors.
* Repeat the same logo or characters across each of your pieces.
* Use similar stylistic elements on each piece. If you use a blue border with a drop shadow, use that on another piece.
* People tend to consider images/elements presented together in groups of three or more as themes. It's hard to make an association with just two or less items. If you put red on a marquee, blue on your side art, green on your bezel, and purple on your CPO, your cab is going to look a bit disjointed. A red CPO with a blue marquee, blue sideart, and blue bezel might look striking, however.
* Limit your font choices to 1 or 2
* Use a [[display font]] for titles or logos, and regular fonts like Helvetica, Universe, Futura, Garamond, or even Arial and Times (if you must) for any instructional copy. Make instructional copy easy to read. It doesn't have to be big, but clear enough to read. If it's not clear enough to read, then just leave it off.
* On Marquees, your marquee title should use up the majority of space in most instances. Filling up a marquee with a bunch of characters and some tiny, wispy text is going to look really weak, and un-arcade like. Most cabinet titles you'll see on real machines take up the majority of space with characters forming around the borders, in the background, or snaking through the lettering. Bombastic... make the text part of the design, make it larger than life, make it speak for the cabinet in more ways than simple words can convey.
* Feel free to overlay boxes, lines, shapes, little symbols, onto any photos or images you might be using. Integrate the image into the rest of your theme.
* Don't feel that you need to fill all of the space. Smart use of whitespace can do wonders.
* Keep things balanced. If you add images to the left side of the marquee, you may want to put some stylistic elements or another image on the right to hold everything together. Not a hard and fast rule, but something to try out.
* Keep your buttons, joysticks, and accessories in mind. Before buying bright green t-molding, make sure it will make sense with your theme.

When you're done with your design, you may want to take some time before rushing out to get it printed.
* Print out a full size, low-res mockup (even on multiple pieces of paper) and live with it on your cab for a few days.
* Ask others for their honest opinion and expect some harsh comments. Request criticism.
* Press for real opinions, tell them you are asking for criticism to make it better. You can always ignore the comments, but the information you glean may be priceless.
* Don't be hurt by honest criticism. Everyone has differences of opinion. Hearing criticism can help you firm up your own opinions, you can discover how you really feel.
* A simple "I like it" does not mean your design is great. It means you have nice friends. When pressed, even your dear old grandmother may have some criticism stored up.
*When you are done with your design, look at it in a mirror. You'll be amazed at the new perspective you can get from looking at a reversed image... it can help you step back from your own ideas.
*ALWAYS, always, always, use spell check, check the spelling yourself, and and ask someone else to check it. You don't want to spend $40 on a marquee with a typo.

=Tools of the trade=
There are many software programs you can use to create graphics. See the [[graphics software]] page for a list. A few things to keep in mind:
* Use software that you are confortable with. You might get better gradients in Adobe Illustrator than in Microsoft Visio, but if you are struggling with the way the software works there is nothing to apply those prettty gradients to.
* See if your computer has the right specs. If you plan to create [[Raster_versus_Vector_artwork|raster]] artwork, make sure your computer has enough ram/memory to handle the large images.
The [[graphics software]] page has a few more hints and tips when selecting your software.

=Do some homework=
When designing a cabinet from scratch, you might already have a clear picture of what you want. If you're not sure, check the ''real thing™'', visit an arcade or take a look at [http://www.arcadeflyers.com/ the Arcade Flyer Archive] or [http://www.klov.com/ KLOV] to see what arcade cabinet artwork looks like.

The [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/board,13.0.html BYOAC artwork forum] also has tons of idea's for artwork. It is also a good place to discuss designs.

Then there is the golden rule of artwork: Experiment! Your first design does not have to be the final design!

=See also=
* [[Graphics software]]
* [[Vector tracing]]
* [[Finishing]]
* [[Vendors|Artwork Vendors]]

[[Category:Finishing]]

Creating Your Own Art From Scratch

2007-06-06T03:37:30Z

Apollo:

__NOTOC__
= How to be a good designer =
Good design is a mix of both science and art. If you have any question about what great art can do for a for a cabinet just take a look at the classics: Defender, Joust, Ms Pac Man etc all have themes that are very cohesive, creative and have an extremely polished appearance. Some of the later conversion cabinet kits were not themed as well and they look pale in comparison. To make sure that your cabinet theme looks like it was created by a professional try to take some lessons from those classic designs. There are no hard and fast rules but the following are good things to keep in mind when it comes to cabinet artwork.
** Keep each piece cohesive with the rest. The marquee, control panel, side art, and cabinet paint job should look like they belong together.
** Use matching colors. A tool like [http://www.easyrgb.com/harmonies.php Easy RGB] can give you suggestions of matching colors.
** Repeat the same logo or characters across each of your pieces.
** Use similar stylistic elements on each piece. If you use a blue border with a drop shadow, use that on another piece.
** People tend to consider images/elements presented together in groups of three or more as themes. It's hard to make an association with just two or less items. If you put red on a marquee, blue on your side art, green on your bezel, and purple on your CPO, your cab is going to look a bit disjointed. A red CPO with a blue marquee, blue sideart, and blue bezel might look striking, however.
** Limit your font choices to 1 or 2
** Use a [[display font]] for titles or logos, and regular fonts like Helvetica, Universe, Futura, Garamond, or even Arial and Times (if you must) for any instructional copy. Make instructional copy easy to read. It doesn't have to be big, but clear enough to read. If it's not clear enough to read, then just leave it off.
** On Marquees, your marquee title should use up the majority of space in most instances. Filling up a marquee with a bunch of characters and some tiny, wispy text is going to look really weak, and un-arcade like. Most cabinet titles you'll see on real machines take up the majority of space with characters forming around the borders, in the background, or snaking through the lettering. Bombastic... make the text part of the design, make it larger than life, make it speak for the cabinet in more ways than simple words can convey.
* Feel free to overlay boxes, lines, shapes, little symbols, onto any photos or images you might be using. Integrate the image into the rest of your theme.
* Don't feel that you need to fill all of the space. Smart use of whitespace can do wonders.
* Keep things balanced. If you add images to the left side of the marquee, you may want to put some stylistic elements or another image on the right to hold everything together. Not a hard and fast rule, but something to try out.
* Keep your buttons, joysticks, and accessories in mind. Before buying bright green t-molding, make sure it will make sense with your theme.

When you're done with your design, you may want to take some time before rushing out to get it printed.
* Print out a full size, low-res mockup (even on multiple pieces of paper) and live with it on your cab for a few days.
* Ask others for their honest opinion and expect some harsh comments. Request criticism.
** Press for real opinions, tell them you are asking for criticism to make it better. You can always ignore the comments, but the information you glean may be priceless.
** Don't be hurt by honest criticism. Everyone has differences of opinion. Hearing criticism can help you firm up your own opinions, you can discover how you really feel.
** A simple "I like it" does not mean your design is great. It means you have nice friends. When pressed, even your dear old grandmother may have some criticism stored up.
*When you are done with your design, look at it in a mirror. You'll be amazed at the new perspective you can get from looking at a reversed image... it can help you step back from your own ideas.
*ALWAYS, always, always, use spell check, check the spelling yourself, and and ask someone else to check it. You don't want to spend $40 on a marquee with a typo.

=Tools of the trade=
There are many software programs you can use to create graphics. See the [[graphics software]] page for a list. A few things to keep in mind:
* Use software that you are confortable with. You might get better gradients in Adobe Illustrator than in Microsoft Visio, but if you are struggling with the way the software works there is nothing to apply those prettty gradients to.
* See if your computer has the right specs. If you plan to create [[Raster_versus_Vector_artwork|raster]] artwork, make sure your computer has enough ram/memory to handle the large images.
The [[graphics software]] page has a few more hints and tips when selecting your software.

=Do some homework=
When designing a cabinet from scratch, you might already have a clear picture of what you want. If you're not sure, check the ''real thing™'', visit an arcade or take a look at [http://www.arcadeflyers.com/ the Arcade Flyer Archive] or [http://www.klov.com/ KLOV] to see what arcade cabinet artwork looks like.

The [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/board,13.0.html BYOAC artwork forum] also has tons of idea's for artwork. It is also a good place to discuss designs.

Then there is the golden rule of artwork: Experiment! Your first design does not have to be the final design!

=See also=
* [[Graphics software]]
* [[Vector tracing]]
* [[Finishing]]
* [[Vendors|Artwork Vendors]]

[[Category:Finishing]]

Community Portal

2007-06-06T01:43:18Z

Apollo: /* Be a Contributor! */

__NOTOC__{{Portal|name=Community Portal}}
This is the main community page for those who wish to contribute to the BYOAC Wiki. The Wiki is nothing more than a collection of user contributed articles written by arcade enthusiasts just like you. This is a community site, and depends on your contributions as an editor or author to keep it current, relevant and growing.

==Be a Contributor!==
To contribute as an author or editor, you first need to create an account on the [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/ BYOAC forum] and then use that user name and password to log in to this Wiki. Creating an account takes only a minute or two and requires minimal information. Once you have an account and have logged in, you can edit or create a new article. To edit any article, just click on the ''edit tab'' at the top of that article. To create a new article, please do a '''search''' first to see if a similar article exists. If it does not exist you can easily create it from the search results page by clicking on the ''this exact title'' link that will come up on the search page at the top. Then link your article to the appropriate portal below.

===Editing and Formatting===
This Wiki uses the MediaWiki software system. Formatting of pages is unique to this system, but easy to learn by browsing a few examples. Click on the ''edit'' tab on any page to see what the source document looks like. The [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Quick_guide Wikipedia quick guide] offers some basic formatting options including a cheatsheet to help you contribute to this Wiki. The [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Help:Editing Wikpedia extended editing guide] provides more detailed formatting options. For more detailed discussion of style, see the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Manual_of_Style Wikipedia Style Manual].

===Add an Article, Not Just Links===
We want the BYOAC Wiki to be a true arcade control encyclopedia and not just another collection of links. While it is perfectly appropriate to add some links - especially to the pages dedicated to links, it is also important that you contribute real content. You can write a new article on just about anything arcade related, or consider adding a paragraph or two to an existing article. Your thoughts might prompt someone else to add a few paragraphs, and before you know it we will have a true arcade encyclopedia.

===Some Editing Guidelines===
* Articles should be named by the shortest possible keyword - ideally one or two words
* Articles should contain real content (with the exception of specific link pages such as the list of suppliers) and not be just a collection of links.
* Articles should start with a short definition or introduction of the topic being discussed (the topic name is usually bolded in the introduction)
* Articles should use headings as appropriate to organize topics in the article
* You can use the code '''<nowiki>__NOTOC__</nowiki>''' at the top of a page to supress the automatic generation of a contents box for short articles. Longer articles should include the automatic contents box.
* Unless the page is a simple definition, it should include the '''<nowiki>==See Also==</nowiki>''' heading near the end of the page and link back to the main portal and other related pages.
* External site links should be added at the bottom after the '''See Also''' section under the title '''<nowiki>==External Links==</nowiki>''' if appropriate
* All pages require a category using a category statement at the very bottom of the page such as '''<nowiki>[[Category:portalname]]</nowiki>'''. Categories for major portals are listed below.
* Definitions should, as a minimum, be added to the '''Index''' category with the code: '''<nowiki>[[Category:Index]]</nowiki>'''. Other pages can be added to the Index using the same code, even if they are also members of another category (i.e. you can have more than one Category statement at the end of an article). Not every article needs to be in the Index - only those that are commonly used terms.
* Try to avoid orphaned pages - pages you create should be linked to either another page (as might be the case for a definition) or a main portal (for a more substantial article).

==The Index==
The [[:Category:Index]] exists to list major terms and topics. You can add a page to the Index with the code: '''<nowiki>[[Category:Index]]</nowiki>'''. However, not ''every'' page needs to be added to the index. Only major terms and topics should be listed. For example, it would be inappropriate to list every example, vendor or possible item, but it might be appropriate to list a top level page such as ''Venrods''.

==BYOAC Portals==
Wiki pages are organized into projects that each have a main portal and a main category assigned. Where possible, the larger projects correspond to main entry portals on the main page. To join a project as an editor or author, simply add your name to the editor column for the major projects listed below. We recommend that you contact the other editors for your project to coordinate before jumping in with major changes. Please be sure to link new pages to the appropriate portal page and category for the portal you are editing.

{| border=1 width="100%"
! Project Portal !! Categories !! Description !! Editors, Authors
|-
| [[Basics]] || [[:Category:Basics]] || Arcade Cabinet Basics || None
|-
| [[Building]] || [[:Category:Building]] || Design and Building || None
|-
| [[Controls]] || [[:Category:Controls]] || Control Panels, Controls and Interfaces || None
|-
| [[Finishing]] || [[:Category:Finishing]] || Finishing, Artwork and Misc || None
|-
| [[Vendors]] || [[:Category:Vendors]] || Listing of Vendors and Suppliers || None
|-
| [[Software]] || [[:Category:Software]] || Software, Emulators, Front Ends & Games|| None
|-
| [[Examples]] || [[:Category:Examples]] || Arcade Cabinet Examples || None
|-
| [[Video]] || [[:Category:Video]] || Video Monitors and Interfaces || None
|-
| [[Main Page]] || [[:Category:Portals]] || Main Page and Main Portals || [[User:MortalPawn|Doc-]]
|}

==To Do List==
The BYOAC Wikiis a work in progress. Unfortunately many of the pages are still incomplete pages or stubs. Below are some of the largest items that need to be either completed or reworked.

* [Insert your "To Do" items here]

==Special Pages For Editors==
* [[Special:Categories]] - A list of all categories
* [[Special:Deadendpages]] - Pages that dead end (no '''See Also'' or ''External Links'')
* [[Special:Uncategorizedpages]] - Pages not assigned to a category
* [[Special:Wantedpages]] - Pages that are just stubs and have no content whatsoever
* [[Special:Lonelypages]] - Orphaned Pages
* [[:Category:Work_in_progress|Work In Progress]] - Pages who need cleanups

==External Links==
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Quick_guide Wikipedia quick guide]
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Help:Editing Wikpedia extended editing guide]
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Manual_of_Style Wikipedia Style Manual]

[[Category:Help]]

Community Portal

2007-06-06T01:42:29Z

Apollo: /* Be a Contributor! */

__NOTOC__{{Portal|name=Community Portal}}
This is the main community page for those who wish to contribute to the BYOAC Wiki. The Wiki is nothing more than a collection of user contributed articles written by arcade enthusiasts just like you. This is a community site, and depends on your contributions as an editor or author to keep it current, relevant and growing.

==Be a Contributor!==
To contribute as an author or editor, you first need to create an account on the [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/ BYOAC forum] and then use that user name and password to log in to this Wiki. Creating an account takes only a minute or two, and requires minimal information. Once you have an account and have logged in, you can edit or create a new article. To edit any article, just click on the ''edit tab'' at the top of that article. To create a new article, please do a '''search''' first to see if a similar article exists. If it does not exist you can easily create it from the search results page by clicking on the ''this exact title'' link that will come up on the search page at the top. Then link your article to the appropriate portal below.

===Editing and Formatting===
This Wiki uses the MediaWiki software system. Formatting of pages is unique to this system, but easy to learn by browsing a few examples. Click on the ''edit'' tab on any page to see what the source document looks like. The [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Quick_guide Wikipedia quick guide] offers some basic formatting options including a cheatsheet to help you contribute to this Wiki. The [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Help:Editing Wikpedia extended editing guide] provides more detailed formatting options. For more detailed discussion of style, see the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Manual_of_Style Wikipedia Style Manual].

===Add an Article, Not Just Links===
We want the BYOAC Wiki to be a true arcade control encyclopedia and not just another collection of links. While it is perfectly appropriate to add some links - especially to the pages dedicated to links, it is also important that you contribute real content. You can write a new article on just about anything arcade related, or consider adding a paragraph or two to an existing article. Your thoughts might prompt someone else to add a few paragraphs, and before you know it we will have a true arcade encyclopedia.

===Some Editing Guidelines===
* Articles should be named by the shortest possible keyword - ideally one or two words
* Articles should contain real content (with the exception of specific link pages such as the list of suppliers) and not be just a collection of links.
* Articles should start with a short definition or introduction of the topic being discussed (the topic name is usually bolded in the introduction)
* Articles should use headings as appropriate to organize topics in the article
* You can use the code '''<nowiki>__NOTOC__</nowiki>''' at the top of a page to supress the automatic generation of a contents box for short articles. Longer articles should include the automatic contents box.
* Unless the page is a simple definition, it should include the '''<nowiki>==See Also==</nowiki>''' heading near the end of the page and link back to the main portal and other related pages.
* External site links should be added at the bottom after the '''See Also''' section under the title '''<nowiki>==External Links==</nowiki>''' if appropriate
* All pages require a category using a category statement at the very bottom of the page such as '''<nowiki>[[Category:portalname]]</nowiki>'''. Categories for major portals are listed below.
* Definitions should, as a minimum, be added to the '''Index''' category with the code: '''<nowiki>[[Category:Index]]</nowiki>'''. Other pages can be added to the Index using the same code, even if they are also members of another category (i.e. you can have more than one Category statement at the end of an article). Not every article needs to be in the Index - only those that are commonly used terms.
* Try to avoid orphaned pages - pages you create should be linked to either another page (as might be the case for a definition) or a main portal (for a more substantial article).

==The Index==
The [[:Category:Index]] exists to list major terms and topics. You can add a page to the Index with the code: '''<nowiki>[[Category:Index]]</nowiki>'''. However, not ''every'' page needs to be added to the index. Only major terms and topics should be listed. For example, it would be inappropriate to list every example, vendor or possible item, but it might be appropriate to list a top level page such as ''Venrods''.

==BYOAC Portals==
Wiki pages are organized into projects that each have a main portal and a main category assigned. Where possible, the larger projects correspond to main entry portals on the main page. To join a project as an editor or author, simply add your name to the editor column for the major projects listed below. We recommend that you contact the other editors for your project to coordinate before jumping in with major changes. Please be sure to link new pages to the appropriate portal page and category for the portal you are editing.

{| border=1 width="100%"
! Project Portal !! Categories !! Description !! Editors, Authors
|-
| [[Basics]] || [[:Category:Basics]] || Arcade Cabinet Basics || None
|-
| [[Building]] || [[:Category:Building]] || Design and Building || None
|-
| [[Controls]] || [[:Category:Controls]] || Control Panels, Controls and Interfaces || None
|-
| [[Finishing]] || [[:Category:Finishing]] || Finishing, Artwork and Misc || None
|-
| [[Vendors]] || [[:Category:Vendors]] || Listing of Vendors and Suppliers || None
|-
| [[Software]] || [[:Category:Software]] || Software, Emulators, Front Ends & Games|| None
|-
| [[Examples]] || [[:Category:Examples]] || Arcade Cabinet Examples || None
|-
| [[Video]] || [[:Category:Video]] || Video Monitors and Interfaces || None
|-
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==To Do List==
The BYOAC Wikiis a work in progress. Unfortunately many of the pages are still incomplete pages or stubs. Below are some of the largest items that need to be either completed or reworked.

* [Insert your "To Do" items here]

==Special Pages For Editors==
* [[Special:Categories]] - A list of all categories
* [[Special:Deadendpages]] - Pages that dead end (no '''See Also'' or ''External Links'')
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* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Quick_guide Wikipedia quick guide]
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[[Category:Help]]

Overview & Options to Consider

2007-06-06T01:16:37Z

Apollo: /* Resto-mod graphics */

Adding graphics to your cabinet can transform it from an oversized PC case into a classic machine that looks like it came straight out of a real arcade. It is the final touches that can make or break a great cabinet. The right choice of artwork and details can make a generic cabinet look simply amazing, while poorly done artwork options can make the most inventive cabinet design look dull. Although it is easy to overlook this area of cabinet building, it should be considered a crucial final step in creating your personal piece of arcade history.

There are generally 5 main approaches to designing the look of your cabinet that you may want to consider early in the planning phase of your cabinet. Each has drawbacks, and each requires varying degrees of skill to execute. Find detailed descriptions below.

More information to come;
=Restoration graphics=
One of the most straightforward methods of adding some pizzaz to your cabinet is to use reproduction (repro) artwork based on your favorite game. There are many distinctive cabinets that have been released over the years: Pac-Man, Galaga, Galaxian etc (all of the Williams cabinets!) and a lot of the artwork is still reproduced by reputable dealers and readily available. If you choose to use repro art there are a few things you need to consider:

#'''Cost of reproduction graphics:''' Bezels, marquees and control panel overlays (CPOs)are usually fairly inexpensive and easily obtainable with prices in the $10-$50 range. Side art is usually more expensive, running from $50-$300 for a complete set.
#'''Availability of repro artwork:''' If your favorite game is Ms. Pac Man you will find the art readily available for sale through an online dealer, at an auction or on eBay for a reasonable price. If however your favorite game happened to be [http://www.macmame.net/klov/defnder3.html Defender 3] chances are you are not going to easily find repro or new old stock (NOS) to use on your cab. If you are trying to restore a cabinet to its authentic former glory it may be worth waiting to find something to complete your masterpiece. If you are not restoring, just pick something else cool...at least that way your cabinet will look good while you're trying to find the rare stuff.
#'''Accuracy of available reproduction artwork:''' While most reproduction houses have high quality artwork available, you may want to investigate the quality & reputation a little bit before you lay down your hard earned cash. Ask questions about the vendor & about the specific piece of repro art at places like [http://groups.google.com/group/rec.games.video.arcade.collecting?lnk=lr&hl=en RGVAC] or in the [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/board,13.0.html artwork section of BYOAC.] In my past experience of dealing with repro art I have occasionally been dissatisfied with the material thickness, detail, and color of various pieces from various vendors. In many instances you will have a tough time getting your money back, so it's best to ask your questions first. If you really know what you want, you may find that repro art does not accurately capture proper color, appliqué (foil, embossing) detail, material (smooth, rough, textured,) thickness, strength, or opacity (in the case of marquees or bezels.) Many repro dealers and repro artwork sites may not have access to pristine NOS art to sample when they create repros and their printing method may not capture the original color (like Pac Man yellow) so you may have to settle for "pretty good" in some cases unless you are looking for absolute restoration style accuracy. In that case, buy NOS if you can find it.
#'''Ease of application:''' In most cases adding artwork should be fairly simple for the average person. Most of it involves the use of adhesives and patience. Many Williams machines use stenciled paint for side and front art and accurate reproduction requires some skill, equipment and practice. If you don't have the patience to spend days doing the necessary preparation and execution required to paint with stencils, you may want to purchase repro stickers instead. If you have absolutely zero patience, you may want to avoid buying large pieces of full side-art stickers (like Centipede) as well. Applying very large stickers requires some skill to reduce bubbles and wrinkles when applying the art. Marquees, correctly sized bezels and CPOs are fairly easy to apply and the average person should not have a problem.

=Resto-mod graphics=
{| align=right
| valign="top"|
[[image:defendercade.jpg|thumb|100px|Defender-Style Marquee]]
[[image:pacmamea.jpg|thumb|100px|1Uparcade.com's Pacmamea]]
|[[image:defmod.jpg|thumb|100px|Defender Control Panel modded for more controls]]
|}
Resto-mod is basically anything that is based on a classic design but does not fully reproduce the original design. There are a few reasons to choose the resto-mod route;

#'''Cost:''' It's cheaper to just put a Defender marquee and control panel on your cabinet than it is to add bezel, side and front art as well. A marquee and CPO might cost a total of $70, while the full kit might cost $200 to $300.
#'''Personal touches:''' "Dee Fender", "LeeVious" and "Jim's Pac Man" marquee titles are all examples taken from real arcade cabinets that people have built. Each displays a little of the personality (and the artistic judgement) of the owner.
#'''Making a statement:''' Many people want their machine to be seen as more than a just a box for one game. Defendercade, Pacmamea and Hyper-Galaxian are all examples of this. Each marquee title implies that the cabinet is more than just a simple arcade classic.
#'''Physical differences:''' Different sizes and shapes of cabinets and different configurations of controls on the control panel are a few reasons that physical differences may require you to modify the art of a classic design. For instance, if you love the art from Galaga but have a generic Dynamo cab, you might have to alter the art a little bit to fit the different cabinet shape. If you are building a Defender shaped cabinet but want to use a trackball and spinner in addition to the standard Defender buttons, you will have to make a few changes to the original defender CPO design.

Resto-mod can be a great shortcut to making a cool cabinet, without some of the cost and complexity involved in fully reproducing the original design. If you aren't careful though, your cabinet can also end up looking cheap and boring, with the art obviously a silly afterthought. Slapping a Galaxian marquee on your cabinet won't in itself make your box look great. A well thought out theme based on a classic design, however, can have some striking results. Great resto-mod designs capture the spirit of the original theme blending the changes perfectly with original art, while adding a dimension of uniqueness, rather than looking like pale imitators.

=Original theme graphics=
{| align=right
| valign="top"|
[[image:heavymetal.jpg|thumb|100px|Heavy Metal Cabinet by...]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:potter.jpg|thumb|100px|Hogwarts Cabinet by Nannuu]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:paranoids1.jpg|thumb|100px|Space Paranoids Cabinet by Jarrett]]

|}
The most creative and striking cabinets that you'll find are well done original themed cabinets. Executing the creation and design of your own personal themed cabinet can be one of the most difficult methods of adding artwork to your cabinet. The payoffs are huge however, you'll have a great looking cab, a certified point of interest in your game room, and [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Martin_Prince infinite hit points.] Creating your own art can be a costly, time consuming and technically difficult option, so you may wan to consider the following before you begin your theme;
#Will your theme look good in five years? You don't want to get stuck with a cabinet that's as painful to look at as a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Faster_Pussycat faster pussycat] tattoo.
# If your theme is going to be based on pop culture stuff (like sports teams, movies, or cartoons) can you find enough [[high resolution]] artwork to cover a marquee, control panel and side art?
# If you have a completely original theme, do you realistically have the time and skill to create artwork from scratch?
#Do you have the correct [[design applications]] to create your art?
#If you are creating side art, you may want to shop around the cost of printing full size side art before you begin. It may be expensive, or even impossible to get art printed large enough to fit your full sized cabinet. You may have to make some sacrifices.
#If your concept is awesome, would it be worth a few hundred $$$ to pay somebody to create it for you? You might even find a friend or an art student to give you a little help for free.

It's easy for a custom theme to become an unnattractive hodge podge if you're not careful. Planning is key. Choose your theme and do your best to stick to your theme with each piece that you create. If you get tired of the theme while doing a specific piece, don't change gears... it's probably best to abandon the entire theme if you're already sick of it. Just because you have a cool marquee design, but can't think of anything else for the sides or CPO doesn't mean you should go ahead and have the marquee printed. It might be better to choose something else. Before you start your theme, create a budget for each piece you would like to create (cost of a custom CPO, marquee, side art) add at least 15-20% on top of that cost to cover shipping, and any tools and miscellaneous parts for attaching and hacking... make sure you'll have enough dough to complete the full theme. You should price out different options with different printers. If you can't get a quote, chances are that what you're looking for is either inaccessible or prohibitevely expensie. Ask questions about the materials and printing techniques if you have any questions. You want to ensure that your art will look good, and last through lots of abuse. If you have guests... it WILL get some abuse. If you have enough cash and the perfect theme, then it's time to begin the design.

If you'd like a few suggestions on design, head over to the [[Creating Your Own Art From Scratch]] page.

=Physical design=
If you are more into tools & gadgets than you are into graphics & design programs, you may be more interested in building a cabinet that derives its visual interest from the materials and objects incorporated into it. The options are endless, its just up to you and your imagination. Metals, neon, chrome, velure, lexan, and varnished wood, cardboard, have all been used as materials for cabinet building by clever enthusiasts. How far can you push your design? Take a look at some of the examples for inspiration.

{|
| valign="top"|
[[image:knievel_cab1.jpg|thumb|100px|Knievel's Neon MAME cabinet]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:lexanclearmspac.jpg|thumb|100px|Clear Lexan Ms. PacMan]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:armoire.jpg|thumb|100px|Armoire machine]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:systemseven.jpg|thumb|100px|System Seven Machine]]
|}

=Hodge Podge=
Hodge Podge is a nice way of describing cabinet art that has had little planning, and little in the way of effort at applying any art. If you hodge podge the art, you will find that the results rarely turn out to make a powerful statement. If you really have little time to think about the art, it may be best to simply paint the cabinet, and maybe add some colored t-molding to add a little pop.

How you design your art is a matter of taste, that's true. Regardless of your particular taste, you should make a plan before you begin applying art. All of the techniques I mention below '''can''' be part of a well done cabinet. The techniques used in a hodge-podge cabinet aren't the real problem. Lack of thought will be the true failure.

You can always redo your cabinet, so feel free to try things out, experiment, cut corners if you're trying to save money. Be honest with yourself when you are done though. Solicit the input of friends and family to see what they think, evaluate the quality of the finished product. If others dislike your cabinet but you like the look of it, then defend your decisions as a matter of taste. If you agree with them, consider planning a new design, and be prepared to take some time with the execution.

It's understandeable that you may want to immediately get to playing your games rather than working on the art. If that's truly the case it's probably best to do next to nothing with the art at all, rather than scraping together whatever you have handy to adorn your cabinet as cheaply and quickly as possible. Examples of this style involve a combination of mismatched colors, mixed themes, decoupage using cutouts from magazines or images printed from a printer and pasted or laquered onto a cabinet, contact paper or wallpaper, or movie posters adhered to the cabinet. Poor use of materials is also a hallmark of a poorly done cabinet, the appearance of extra glue, poorly made cuts with scissors, marred stickers or paper, irregular lines, hand written type will reduce the overal greatness of your otherwise worthy cabinet. This may sound laughable, but it is fairly common. If you are going to the trouble of building a cabinet from scratch, or buying hundreds of dollars in parts to restore a cabinet, the finished product should look professional. Don't let the art be the weak link.

[http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/board,13.0.html The BYOAC Artwork Pages] are a great place to ask questions about design programs, general design, production issues, vendors, and to request a critique of your artwork. A few suggestions by interested invividuals may go a long way to helping you improve on your themed artwork. Don't hesitate to ask for help, it's encouraged.

==See Also==
* [[Finishing]]
* [[Vendors|Artwork Vendors]]

[[Category:Finishing]]

Overview & Options to Consider

2007-06-06T01:14:33Z

Apollo: /* Resto-mod graphics */

Adding graphics to your cabinet can transform it from an oversized PC case into a classic machine that looks like it came straight out of a real arcade. It is the final touches that can make or break a great cabinet. The right choice of artwork and details can make a generic cabinet look simply amazing, while poorly done artwork options can make the most inventive cabinet design look dull. Although it is easy to overlook this area of cabinet building, it should be considered a crucial final step in creating your personal piece of arcade history.

There are generally 5 main approaches to designing the look of your cabinet that you may want to consider early in the planning phase of your cabinet. Each has drawbacks, and each requires varying degrees of skill to execute. Find detailed descriptions below.

More information to come;
=Restoration graphics=
One of the most straightforward methods of adding some pizzaz to your cabinet is to use reproduction (repro) artwork based on your favorite game. There are many distinctive cabinets that have been released over the years: Pac-Man, Galaga, Galaxian etc (all of the Williams cabinets!) and a lot of the artwork is still reproduced by reputable dealers and readily available. If you choose to use repro art there are a few things you need to consider:

#'''Cost of reproduction graphics:''' Bezels, marquees and control panel overlays (CPOs)are usually fairly inexpensive and easily obtainable with prices in the $10-$50 range. Side art is usually more expensive, running from $50-$300 for a complete set.
#'''Availability of repro artwork:''' If your favorite game is Ms. Pac Man you will find the art readily available for sale through an online dealer, at an auction or on eBay for a reasonable price. If however your favorite game happened to be [http://www.macmame.net/klov/defnder3.html Defender 3] chances are you are not going to easily find repro or new old stock (NOS) to use on your cab. If you are trying to restore a cabinet to its authentic former glory it may be worth waiting to find something to complete your masterpiece. If you are not restoring, just pick something else cool...at least that way your cabinet will look good while you're trying to find the rare stuff.
#'''Accuracy of available reproduction artwork:''' While most reproduction houses have high quality artwork available, you may want to investigate the quality & reputation a little bit before you lay down your hard earned cash. Ask questions about the vendor & about the specific piece of repro art at places like [http://groups.google.com/group/rec.games.video.arcade.collecting?lnk=lr&hl=en RGVAC] or in the [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/board,13.0.html artwork section of BYOAC.] In my past experience of dealing with repro art I have occasionally been dissatisfied with the material thickness, detail, and color of various pieces from various vendors. In many instances you will have a tough time getting your money back, so it's best to ask your questions first. If you really know what you want, you may find that repro art does not accurately capture proper color, appliqué (foil, embossing) detail, material (smooth, rough, textured,) thickness, strength, or opacity (in the case of marquees or bezels.) Many repro dealers and repro artwork sites may not have access to pristine NOS art to sample when they create repros and their printing method may not capture the original color (like Pac Man yellow) so you may have to settle for "pretty good" in some cases unless you are looking for absolute restoration style accuracy. In that case, buy NOS if you can find it.
#'''Ease of application:''' In most cases adding artwork should be fairly simple for the average person. Most of it involves the use of adhesives and patience. Many Williams machines use stenciled paint for side and front art and accurate reproduction requires some skill, equipment and practice. If you don't have the patience to spend days doing the necessary preparation and execution required to paint with stencils, you may want to purchase repro stickers instead. If you have absolutely zero patience, you may want to avoid buying large pieces of full side-art stickers (like Centipede) as well. Applying very large stickers requires some skill to reduce bubbles and wrinkles when applying the art. Marquees, correctly sized bezels and CPOs are fairly easy to apply and the average person should not have a problem.

=Resto-mod graphics=
{| align=right
| valign="top"|
[[image:defendercade.jpg|thumb|100px|Defender-Style Marquee]]
[[image:pacmamea.jpg|thumb|100px|1Uparcade.com's Pacmamea]]
|[[image:defmod.jpg|thumb|100px|Defender Control Panel modded for more controls]]
|}
Resto-mod is basically anything that is based on a classic design but does not fully reproduce the original design. There are a few reasons to choose the resto-mod route;

#'''Cost:''' It's cheaper to just put a Defender marquee and control panel on your cabinet than it is to add bezel, side and front art as well. A marquee and CPO might cost a total of $70, while the full kit might cost $200 to $300.
#'''Personal touches:''' "Dee Fender", "LeeVious" and "Jim's Pac Man" marquee titles are all examples taken from real arcade cabinets that people have built. Each displays a little of the personality (and the artistic judgement) of the owner.
#'''Making a statement:''' Many people want their machine to be seen as more than a just a box for one game. Defendercade, Pacmamea and Hyper-Galaxian are all examples of this. Each marquee title implies that the cabinet is more than just a simple arcade classic.
#'''Physical differences:''' Different sizes of cabinets, different shapes, different configurations of controls on the control panel are a few reasons that physical differences may require you to modify the art of a classic design. For instance, If you love the art from Galaga, but have a generic Dynamo cab, you might have to alter the art a little bit to fit the different cabinet shape. If you are building a Defender shaped cabinet, but want to use a trackball and spinner in addition to the standard defender buttons, you will have to make a few changes to the original defender CPO design.

Resto-mod can be a great shortcut to making a cool cabinet, without some of the cost and complexity involved in fully reproducing the original design. If you aren't careful though, your cabinet can also end up looking cheap and boring, with the art obviously a silly afterthought. Slapping a Galaxian marquee on your cabinet won't in itself make your box look great. A well thought out theme based on a classic design, however, can have some striking results. Great resto-mod designs capture the spirit of the original theme blending the changes perfectly with original art, while adding a dimension of uniqueness, rather than looking like pale imitators.

=Original theme graphics=
{| align=right
| valign="top"|
[[image:heavymetal.jpg|thumb|100px|Heavy Metal Cabinet by...]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:potter.jpg|thumb|100px|Hogwarts Cabinet by Nannuu]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:paranoids1.jpg|thumb|100px|Space Paranoids Cabinet by Jarrett]]

|}
The most creative and striking cabinets that you'll find are well done original themed cabinets. Executing the creation and design of your own personal themed cabinet can be one of the most difficult methods of adding artwork to your cabinet. The payoffs are huge however, you'll have a great looking cab, a certified point of interest in your game room, and [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Martin_Prince infinite hit points.] Creating your own art can be a costly, time consuming and technically difficult option, so you may wan to consider the following before you begin your theme;
#Will your theme look good in five years? You don't want to get stuck with a cabinet that's as painful to look at as a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Faster_Pussycat faster pussycat] tattoo.
# If your theme is going to be based on pop culture stuff (like sports teams, movies, or cartoons) can you find enough [[high resolution]] artwork to cover a marquee, control panel and side art?
# If you have a completely original theme, do you realistically have the time and skill to create artwork from scratch?
#Do you have the correct [[design applications]] to create your art?
#If you are creating side art, you may want to shop around the cost of printing full size side art before you begin. It may be expensive, or even impossible to get art printed large enough to fit your full sized cabinet. You may have to make some sacrifices.
#If your concept is awesome, would it be worth a few hundred $$$ to pay somebody to create it for you? You might even find a friend or an art student to give you a little help for free.

It's easy for a custom theme to become an unnattractive hodge podge if you're not careful. Planning is key. Choose your theme and do your best to stick to your theme with each piece that you create. If you get tired of the theme while doing a specific piece, don't change gears... it's probably best to abandon the entire theme if you're already sick of it. Just because you have a cool marquee design, but can't think of anything else for the sides or CPO doesn't mean you should go ahead and have the marquee printed. It might be better to choose something else. Before you start your theme, create a budget for each piece you would like to create (cost of a custom CPO, marquee, side art) add at least 15-20% on top of that cost to cover shipping, and any tools and miscellaneous parts for attaching and hacking... make sure you'll have enough dough to complete the full theme. You should price out different options with different printers. If you can't get a quote, chances are that what you're looking for is either inaccessible or prohibitevely expensie. Ask questions about the materials and printing techniques if you have any questions. You want to ensure that your art will look good, and last through lots of abuse. If you have guests... it WILL get some abuse. If you have enough cash and the perfect theme, then it's time to begin the design.

If you'd like a few suggestions on design, head over to the [[Creating Your Own Art From Scratch]] page.

=Physical design=
If you are more into tools & gadgets than you are into graphics & design programs, you may be more interested in building a cabinet that derives its visual interest from the materials and objects incorporated into it. The options are endless, its just up to you and your imagination. Metals, neon, chrome, velure, lexan, and varnished wood, cardboard, have all been used as materials for cabinet building by clever enthusiasts. How far can you push your design? Take a look at some of the examples for inspiration.

{|
| valign="top"|
[[image:knievel_cab1.jpg|thumb|100px|Knievel's Neon MAME cabinet]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:lexanclearmspac.jpg|thumb|100px|Clear Lexan Ms. PacMan]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:armoire.jpg|thumb|100px|Armoire machine]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:systemseven.jpg|thumb|100px|System Seven Machine]]
|}

=Hodge Podge=
Hodge Podge is a nice way of describing cabinet art that has had little planning, and little in the way of effort at applying any art. If you hodge podge the art, you will find that the results rarely turn out to make a powerful statement. If you really have little time to think about the art, it may be best to simply paint the cabinet, and maybe add some colored t-molding to add a little pop.

How you design your art is a matter of taste, that's true. Regardless of your particular taste, you should make a plan before you begin applying art. All of the techniques I mention below '''can''' be part of a well done cabinet. The techniques used in a hodge-podge cabinet aren't the real problem. Lack of thought will be the true failure.

You can always redo your cabinet, so feel free to try things out, experiment, cut corners if you're trying to save money. Be honest with yourself when you are done though. Solicit the input of friends and family to see what they think, evaluate the quality of the finished product. If others dislike your cabinet but you like the look of it, then defend your decisions as a matter of taste. If you agree with them, consider planning a new design, and be prepared to take some time with the execution.

It's understandeable that you may want to immediately get to playing your games rather than working on the art. If that's truly the case it's probably best to do next to nothing with the art at all, rather than scraping together whatever you have handy to adorn your cabinet as cheaply and quickly as possible. Examples of this style involve a combination of mismatched colors, mixed themes, decoupage using cutouts from magazines or images printed from a printer and pasted or laquered onto a cabinet, contact paper or wallpaper, or movie posters adhered to the cabinet. Poor use of materials is also a hallmark of a poorly done cabinet, the appearance of extra glue, poorly made cuts with scissors, marred stickers or paper, irregular lines, hand written type will reduce the overal greatness of your otherwise worthy cabinet. This may sound laughable, but it is fairly common. If you are going to the trouble of building a cabinet from scratch, or buying hundreds of dollars in parts to restore a cabinet, the finished product should look professional. Don't let the art be the weak link.

[http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/board,13.0.html The BYOAC Artwork Pages] are a great place to ask questions about design programs, general design, production issues, vendors, and to request a critique of your artwork. A few suggestions by interested invividuals may go a long way to helping you improve on your themed artwork. Don't hesitate to ask for help, it's encouraged.

==See Also==
* [[Finishing]]
* [[Vendors|Artwork Vendors]]

[[Category:Finishing]]

Overview & Options to Consider

2007-06-06T01:13:34Z

Apollo: /* Resto-mod graphics */

Adding graphics to your cabinet can transform it from an oversized PC case into a classic machine that looks like it came straight out of a real arcade. It is the final touches that can make or break a great cabinet. The right choice of artwork and details can make a generic cabinet look simply amazing, while poorly done artwork options can make the most inventive cabinet design look dull. Although it is easy to overlook this area of cabinet building, it should be considered a crucial final step in creating your personal piece of arcade history.

There are generally 5 main approaches to designing the look of your cabinet that you may want to consider early in the planning phase of your cabinet. Each has drawbacks, and each requires varying degrees of skill to execute. Find detailed descriptions below.

More information to come;
=Restoration graphics=
One of the most straightforward methods of adding some pizzaz to your cabinet is to use reproduction (repro) artwork based on your favorite game. There are many distinctive cabinets that have been released over the years: Pac-Man, Galaga, Galaxian etc (all of the Williams cabinets!) and a lot of the artwork is still reproduced by reputable dealers and readily available. If you choose to use repro art there are a few things you need to consider:

#'''Cost of reproduction graphics:''' Bezels, marquees and control panel overlays (CPOs)are usually fairly inexpensive and easily obtainable with prices in the $10-$50 range. Side art is usually more expensive, running from $50-$300 for a complete set.
#'''Availability of repro artwork:''' If your favorite game is Ms. Pac Man you will find the art readily available for sale through an online dealer, at an auction or on eBay for a reasonable price. If however your favorite game happened to be [http://www.macmame.net/klov/defnder3.html Defender 3] chances are you are not going to easily find repro or new old stock (NOS) to use on your cab. If you are trying to restore a cabinet to its authentic former glory it may be worth waiting to find something to complete your masterpiece. If you are not restoring, just pick something else cool...at least that way your cabinet will look good while you're trying to find the rare stuff.
#'''Accuracy of available reproduction artwork:''' While most reproduction houses have high quality artwork available, you may want to investigate the quality & reputation a little bit before you lay down your hard earned cash. Ask questions about the vendor & about the specific piece of repro art at places like [http://groups.google.com/group/rec.games.video.arcade.collecting?lnk=lr&hl=en RGVAC] or in the [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/board,13.0.html artwork section of BYOAC.] In my past experience of dealing with repro art I have occasionally been dissatisfied with the material thickness, detail, and color of various pieces from various vendors. In many instances you will have a tough time getting your money back, so it's best to ask your questions first. If you really know what you want, you may find that repro art does not accurately capture proper color, appliqué (foil, embossing) detail, material (smooth, rough, textured,) thickness, strength, or opacity (in the case of marquees or bezels.) Many repro dealers and repro artwork sites may not have access to pristine NOS art to sample when they create repros and their printing method may not capture the original color (like Pac Man yellow) so you may have to settle for "pretty good" in some cases unless you are looking for absolute restoration style accuracy. In that case, buy NOS if you can find it.
#'''Ease of application:''' In most cases adding artwork should be fairly simple for the average person. Most of it involves the use of adhesives and patience. Many Williams machines use stenciled paint for side and front art and accurate reproduction requires some skill, equipment and practice. If you don't have the patience to spend days doing the necessary preparation and execution required to paint with stencils, you may want to purchase repro stickers instead. If you have absolutely zero patience, you may want to avoid buying large pieces of full side-art stickers (like Centipede) as well. Applying very large stickers requires some skill to reduce bubbles and wrinkles when applying the art. Marquees, correctly sized bezels and CPOs are fairly easy to apply and the average person should not have a problem.

=Resto-mod graphics=
{| align=right
| valign="top"|
[[image:defendercade.jpg|thumb|100px|Defender-Style Marquee]]
[[image:pacmamea.jpg|thumb|100px|1Uparcade.com's Pacmamea]]
|[[image:defmod.jpg|thumb|100px|Defender Control Panel modded for more controls]]
|}
Resto-mod is basically anything that is based on a classic design but does not fully reproduce the original design. There are a few reasons to choose the resto-mod route;

#'''Cost:''' It's cheaper to just put a Defender marquee and control panel on your cabinet than it is to add bezel, side and front art as well. A marquee and CPO might cost a total of $70, while the full kit might cost $200 to $300.
#'''Personal touches:''' "Dee Fender", "LeeVious" and "Jim's Pac Man" marquee titles are all examples taken from real arcade cabinets that people have built. Each displays a little of the personality (and the artistic judgement) of the owner.
#'''Making a statement:''' Many people want their machine to be seen as more than a just a box for ONE game. Defendercade, Pacmamea, Hyper-Galaxian. Each marquee title implies that the cabinet is more than just a simple arcade classic.
#'''Physical differences:''' Different sizes of cabinets, different shapes, different configurations of controls on the control panel are a few reasons that physical differences may require you to modify the art of a classic design. For instance, If you love the art from Galaga, but have a generic Dynamo cab, you might have to alter the art a little bit to fit the different cabinet shape. If you are building a Defender shaped cabinet, but want to use a trackball and spinner in addition to the standard defender buttons, you will have to make a few changes to the original defender CPO design.

Resto-mod can be a great shortcut to making a cool cabinet, without some of the cost and complexity involved in fully reproducing the original design. If you aren't careful though, your cabinet can also end up looking cheap and boring, with the art obviously a silly afterthought. Slapping a Galaxian marquee on your cabinet won't in itself make your box look great. A well thought out theme based on a classic design, however, can have some striking results. Great resto-mod designs capture the spirit of the original theme blending the changes perfectly with original art, while adding a dimension of uniqueness, rather than looking like pale imitators.

=Original theme graphics=
{| align=right
| valign="top"|
[[image:heavymetal.jpg|thumb|100px|Heavy Metal Cabinet by...]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:potter.jpg|thumb|100px|Hogwarts Cabinet by Nannuu]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:paranoids1.jpg|thumb|100px|Space Paranoids Cabinet by Jarrett]]

|}
The most creative and striking cabinets that you'll find are well done original themed cabinets. Executing the creation and design of your own personal themed cabinet can be one of the most difficult methods of adding artwork to your cabinet. The payoffs are huge however, you'll have a great looking cab, a certified point of interest in your game room, and [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Martin_Prince infinite hit points.] Creating your own art can be a costly, time consuming and technically difficult option, so you may wan to consider the following before you begin your theme;
#Will your theme look good in five years? You don't want to get stuck with a cabinet that's as painful to look at as a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Faster_Pussycat faster pussycat] tattoo.
# If your theme is going to be based on pop culture stuff (like sports teams, movies, or cartoons) can you find enough [[high resolution]] artwork to cover a marquee, control panel and side art?
# If you have a completely original theme, do you realistically have the time and skill to create artwork from scratch?
#Do you have the correct [[design applications]] to create your art?
#If you are creating side art, you may want to shop around the cost of printing full size side art before you begin. It may be expensive, or even impossible to get art printed large enough to fit your full sized cabinet. You may have to make some sacrifices.
#If your concept is awesome, would it be worth a few hundred $$$ to pay somebody to create it for you? You might even find a friend or an art student to give you a little help for free.

It's easy for a custom theme to become an unnattractive hodge podge if you're not careful. Planning is key. Choose your theme and do your best to stick to your theme with each piece that you create. If you get tired of the theme while doing a specific piece, don't change gears... it's probably best to abandon the entire theme if you're already sick of it. Just because you have a cool marquee design, but can't think of anything else for the sides or CPO doesn't mean you should go ahead and have the marquee printed. It might be better to choose something else. Before you start your theme, create a budget for each piece you would like to create (cost of a custom CPO, marquee, side art) add at least 15-20% on top of that cost to cover shipping, and any tools and miscellaneous parts for attaching and hacking... make sure you'll have enough dough to complete the full theme. You should price out different options with different printers. If you can't get a quote, chances are that what you're looking for is either inaccessible or prohibitevely expensie. Ask questions about the materials and printing techniques if you have any questions. You want to ensure that your art will look good, and last through lots of abuse. If you have guests... it WILL get some abuse. If you have enough cash and the perfect theme, then it's time to begin the design.

If you'd like a few suggestions on design, head over to the [[Creating Your Own Art From Scratch]] page.

=Physical design=
If you are more into tools & gadgets than you are into graphics & design programs, you may be more interested in building a cabinet that derives its visual interest from the materials and objects incorporated into it. The options are endless, its just up to you and your imagination. Metals, neon, chrome, velure, lexan, and varnished wood, cardboard, have all been used as materials for cabinet building by clever enthusiasts. How far can you push your design? Take a look at some of the examples for inspiration.

{|
| valign="top"|
[[image:knievel_cab1.jpg|thumb|100px|Knievel's Neon MAME cabinet]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:lexanclearmspac.jpg|thumb|100px|Clear Lexan Ms. PacMan]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:armoire.jpg|thumb|100px|Armoire machine]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:systemseven.jpg|thumb|100px|System Seven Machine]]
|}

=Hodge Podge=
Hodge Podge is a nice way of describing cabinet art that has had little planning, and little in the way of effort at applying any art. If you hodge podge the art, you will find that the results rarely turn out to make a powerful statement. If you really have little time to think about the art, it may be best to simply paint the cabinet, and maybe add some colored t-molding to add a little pop.

How you design your art is a matter of taste, that's true. Regardless of your particular taste, you should make a plan before you begin applying art. All of the techniques I mention below '''can''' be part of a well done cabinet. The techniques used in a hodge-podge cabinet aren't the real problem. Lack of thought will be the true failure.

You can always redo your cabinet, so feel free to try things out, experiment, cut corners if you're trying to save money. Be honest with yourself when you are done though. Solicit the input of friends and family to see what they think, evaluate the quality of the finished product. If others dislike your cabinet but you like the look of it, then defend your decisions as a matter of taste. If you agree with them, consider planning a new design, and be prepared to take some time with the execution.

It's understandeable that you may want to immediately get to playing your games rather than working on the art. If that's truly the case it's probably best to do next to nothing with the art at all, rather than scraping together whatever you have handy to adorn your cabinet as cheaply and quickly as possible. Examples of this style involve a combination of mismatched colors, mixed themes, decoupage using cutouts from magazines or images printed from a printer and pasted or laquered onto a cabinet, contact paper or wallpaper, or movie posters adhered to the cabinet. Poor use of materials is also a hallmark of a poorly done cabinet, the appearance of extra glue, poorly made cuts with scissors, marred stickers or paper, irregular lines, hand written type will reduce the overal greatness of your otherwise worthy cabinet. This may sound laughable, but it is fairly common. If you are going to the trouble of building a cabinet from scratch, or buying hundreds of dollars in parts to restore a cabinet, the finished product should look professional. Don't let the art be the weak link.

[http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/board,13.0.html The BYOAC Artwork Pages] are a great place to ask questions about design programs, general design, production issues, vendors, and to request a critique of your artwork. A few suggestions by interested invividuals may go a long way to helping you improve on your themed artwork. Don't hesitate to ask for help, it's encouraged.

==See Also==
* [[Finishing]]
* [[Vendors|Artwork Vendors]]

[[Category:Finishing]]

Overview & Options to Consider

2007-06-06T01:11:21Z

Apollo: /* Resto-mod graphics */

Adding graphics to your cabinet can transform it from an oversized PC case into a classic machine that looks like it came straight out of a real arcade. It is the final touches that can make or break a great cabinet. The right choice of artwork and details can make a generic cabinet look simply amazing, while poorly done artwork options can make the most inventive cabinet design look dull. Although it is easy to overlook this area of cabinet building, it should be considered a crucial final step in creating your personal piece of arcade history.

There are generally 5 main approaches to designing the look of your cabinet that you may want to consider early in the planning phase of your cabinet. Each has drawbacks, and each requires varying degrees of skill to execute. Find detailed descriptions below.

More information to come;
=Restoration graphics=
One of the most straightforward methods of adding some pizzaz to your cabinet is to use reproduction (repro) artwork based on your favorite game. There are many distinctive cabinets that have been released over the years: Pac-Man, Galaga, Galaxian etc (all of the Williams cabinets!) and a lot of the artwork is still reproduced by reputable dealers and readily available. If you choose to use repro art there are a few things you need to consider:

#'''Cost of reproduction graphics:''' Bezels, marquees and control panel overlays (CPOs)are usually fairly inexpensive and easily obtainable with prices in the $10-$50 range. Side art is usually more expensive, running from $50-$300 for a complete set.
#'''Availability of repro artwork:''' If your favorite game is Ms. Pac Man you will find the art readily available for sale through an online dealer, at an auction or on eBay for a reasonable price. If however your favorite game happened to be [http://www.macmame.net/klov/defnder3.html Defender 3] chances are you are not going to easily find repro or new old stock (NOS) to use on your cab. If you are trying to restore a cabinet to its authentic former glory it may be worth waiting to find something to complete your masterpiece. If you are not restoring, just pick something else cool...at least that way your cabinet will look good while you're trying to find the rare stuff.
#'''Accuracy of available reproduction artwork:''' While most reproduction houses have high quality artwork available, you may want to investigate the quality & reputation a little bit before you lay down your hard earned cash. Ask questions about the vendor & about the specific piece of repro art at places like [http://groups.google.com/group/rec.games.video.arcade.collecting?lnk=lr&hl=en RGVAC] or in the [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/board,13.0.html artwork section of BYOAC.] In my past experience of dealing with repro art I have occasionally been dissatisfied with the material thickness, detail, and color of various pieces from various vendors. In many instances you will have a tough time getting your money back, so it's best to ask your questions first. If you really know what you want, you may find that repro art does not accurately capture proper color, appliqué (foil, embossing) detail, material (smooth, rough, textured,) thickness, strength, or opacity (in the case of marquees or bezels.) Many repro dealers and repro artwork sites may not have access to pristine NOS art to sample when they create repros and their printing method may not capture the original color (like Pac Man yellow) so you may have to settle for "pretty good" in some cases unless you are looking for absolute restoration style accuracy. In that case, buy NOS if you can find it.
#'''Ease of application:''' In most cases adding artwork should be fairly simple for the average person. Most of it involves the use of adhesives and patience. Many Williams machines use stenciled paint for side and front art and accurate reproduction requires some skill, equipment and practice. If you don't have the patience to spend days doing the necessary preparation and execution required to paint with stencils, you may want to purchase repro stickers instead. If you have absolutely zero patience, you may want to avoid buying large pieces of full side-art stickers (like Centipede) as well. Applying very large stickers requires some skill to reduce bubbles and wrinkles when applying the art. Marquees, correctly sized bezels and CPOs are fairly easy to apply and the average person should not have a problem.

=Resto-mod graphics=
{| align=right
| valign="top"|
[[image:defendercade.jpg|thumb|100px|Defender-Style Marquee]]
[[image:pacmamea.jpg|thumb|100px|1Uparcade.com's Pacmamea]]
|[[image:defmod.jpg|thumb|100px|Defender Control Panel modded for more controls]]
|}
Resto-mod is basically anything that is based on a classic design but does not fully reproduce the original design. There are a few reasons to choose the resto-mod route;

#'''Cost:''' It's cheaper to just put a Defender marquee and control panel on your cabinet than it is to add bezel, side and front art as well. A marquee and CPO might cost a total of $70, while the full kit might cost $200 to $300.
#'''Personal touches:''' "Dee Fender," "LeeVious," "Jim's Pac Man," marquee titles all of questionable taste... but real examples. Each display a little of the personality of the owner.
#'''Making a statement:''' Many people want their machine to be seen as more than a just a box for ONE game. Defendercade, Pacmamea, Hyper-Galaxian. Each marquee title implies that the cabinet is more than just a simple arcade classic.
#'''Physical differences:''' Different sizes of cabinets, different shapes, different configurations of controls on the control panel are a few reasons that physical differences may require you to modify the art of a classic design. For instance, If you love the art from Galaga, but have a generic Dynamo cab, you might have to alter the art a little bit to fit the different cabinet shape. If you are building a Defender shaped cabinet, but want to use a trackball and spinner in addition to the standard defender buttons, you will have to make a few changes to the original defender CPO design.

Resto-mod can be a great shortcut to making a cool cabinet, without some of the cost and complexity involved in fully reproducing the original design. If you aren't careful though, your cabinet can also end up looking cheap and boring, with the art obviously a silly afterthought. Slapping a Galaxian marquee on your cabinet won't in itself make your box look great. A well thought out theme based on a classic design, however, can have some striking results. Great resto-mod designs capture the spirit of the original theme blending the changes perfectly with original art, while adding a dimension of uniqueness, rather than looking like pale imitators.

=Original theme graphics=
{| align=right
| valign="top"|
[[image:heavymetal.jpg|thumb|100px|Heavy Metal Cabinet by...]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:potter.jpg|thumb|100px|Hogwarts Cabinet by Nannuu]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:paranoids1.jpg|thumb|100px|Space Paranoids Cabinet by Jarrett]]

|}
The most creative and striking cabinets that you'll find are well done original themed cabinets. Executing the creation and design of your own personal themed cabinet can be one of the most difficult methods of adding artwork to your cabinet. The payoffs are huge however, you'll have a great looking cab, a certified point of interest in your game room, and [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Martin_Prince infinite hit points.] Creating your own art can be a costly, time consuming and technically difficult option, so you may wan to consider the following before you begin your theme;
#Will your theme look good in five years? You don't want to get stuck with a cabinet that's as painful to look at as a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Faster_Pussycat faster pussycat] tattoo.
# If your theme is going to be based on pop culture stuff (like sports teams, movies, or cartoons) can you find enough [[high resolution]] artwork to cover a marquee, control panel and side art?
# If you have a completely original theme, do you realistically have the time and skill to create artwork from scratch?
#Do you have the correct [[design applications]] to create your art?
#If you are creating side art, you may want to shop around the cost of printing full size side art before you begin. It may be expensive, or even impossible to get art printed large enough to fit your full sized cabinet. You may have to make some sacrifices.
#If your concept is awesome, would it be worth a few hundred $$$ to pay somebody to create it for you? You might even find a friend or an art student to give you a little help for free.

It's easy for a custom theme to become an unnattractive hodge podge if you're not careful. Planning is key. Choose your theme and do your best to stick to your theme with each piece that you create. If you get tired of the theme while doing a specific piece, don't change gears... it's probably best to abandon the entire theme if you're already sick of it. Just because you have a cool marquee design, but can't think of anything else for the sides or CPO doesn't mean you should go ahead and have the marquee printed. It might be better to choose something else. Before you start your theme, create a budget for each piece you would like to create (cost of a custom CPO, marquee, side art) add at least 15-20% on top of that cost to cover shipping, and any tools and miscellaneous parts for attaching and hacking... make sure you'll have enough dough to complete the full theme. You should price out different options with different printers. If you can't get a quote, chances are that what you're looking for is either inaccessible or prohibitevely expensie. Ask questions about the materials and printing techniques if you have any questions. You want to ensure that your art will look good, and last through lots of abuse. If you have guests... it WILL get some abuse. If you have enough cash and the perfect theme, then it's time to begin the design.

If you'd like a few suggestions on design, head over to the [[Creating Your Own Art From Scratch]] page.

=Physical design=
If you are more into tools & gadgets than you are into graphics & design programs, you may be more interested in building a cabinet that derives its visual interest from the materials and objects incorporated into it. The options are endless, its just up to you and your imagination. Metals, neon, chrome, velure, lexan, and varnished wood, cardboard, have all been used as materials for cabinet building by clever enthusiasts. How far can you push your design? Take a look at some of the examples for inspiration.

{|
| valign="top"|
[[image:knievel_cab1.jpg|thumb|100px|Knievel's Neon MAME cabinet]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:lexanclearmspac.jpg|thumb|100px|Clear Lexan Ms. PacMan]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:armoire.jpg|thumb|100px|Armoire machine]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:systemseven.jpg|thumb|100px|System Seven Machine]]
|}

=Hodge Podge=
Hodge Podge is a nice way of describing cabinet art that has had little planning, and little in the way of effort at applying any art. If you hodge podge the art, you will find that the results rarely turn out to make a powerful statement. If you really have little time to think about the art, it may be best to simply paint the cabinet, and maybe add some colored t-molding to add a little pop.

How you design your art is a matter of taste, that's true. Regardless of your particular taste, you should make a plan before you begin applying art. All of the techniques I mention below '''can''' be part of a well done cabinet. The techniques used in a hodge-podge cabinet aren't the real problem. Lack of thought will be the true failure.

You can always redo your cabinet, so feel free to try things out, experiment, cut corners if you're trying to save money. Be honest with yourself when you are done though. Solicit the input of friends and family to see what they think, evaluate the quality of the finished product. If others dislike your cabinet but you like the look of it, then defend your decisions as a matter of taste. If you agree with them, consider planning a new design, and be prepared to take some time with the execution.

It's understandeable that you may want to immediately get to playing your games rather than working on the art. If that's truly the case it's probably best to do next to nothing with the art at all, rather than scraping together whatever you have handy to adorn your cabinet as cheaply and quickly as possible. Examples of this style involve a combination of mismatched colors, mixed themes, decoupage using cutouts from magazines or images printed from a printer and pasted or laquered onto a cabinet, contact paper or wallpaper, or movie posters adhered to the cabinet. Poor use of materials is also a hallmark of a poorly done cabinet, the appearance of extra glue, poorly made cuts with scissors, marred stickers or paper, irregular lines, hand written type will reduce the overal greatness of your otherwise worthy cabinet. This may sound laughable, but it is fairly common. If you are going to the trouble of building a cabinet from scratch, or buying hundreds of dollars in parts to restore a cabinet, the finished product should look professional. Don't let the art be the weak link.

[http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/board,13.0.html The BYOAC Artwork Pages] are a great place to ask questions about design programs, general design, production issues, vendors, and to request a critique of your artwork. A few suggestions by interested invividuals may go a long way to helping you improve on your themed artwork. Don't hesitate to ask for help, it's encouraged.

==See Also==
* [[Finishing]]
* [[Vendors|Artwork Vendors]]

[[Category:Finishing]]

Overview & Options to Consider

2007-06-06T01:06:11Z

Apollo: /* Resto-mod graphics */

Adding graphics to your cabinet can transform it from an oversized PC case into a classic machine that looks like it came straight out of a real arcade. It is the final touches that can make or break a great cabinet. The right choice of artwork and details can make a generic cabinet look simply amazing, while poorly done artwork options can make the most inventive cabinet design look dull. Although it is easy to overlook this area of cabinet building, it should be considered a crucial final step in creating your personal piece of arcade history.

There are generally 5 main approaches to designing the look of your cabinet that you may want to consider early in the planning phase of your cabinet. Each has drawbacks, and each requires varying degrees of skill to execute. Find detailed descriptions below.

More information to come;
=Restoration graphics=
One of the most straightforward methods of adding some pizzaz to your cabinet is to use reproduction (repro) artwork based on your favorite game. There are many distinctive cabinets that have been released over the years: Pac-Man, Galaga, Galaxian etc (all of the Williams cabinets!) and a lot of the artwork is still reproduced by reputable dealers and readily available. If you choose to use repro art there are a few things you need to consider:

#'''Cost of reproduction graphics:''' Bezels, marquees and control panel overlays (CPOs)are usually fairly inexpensive and easily obtainable with prices in the $10-$50 range. Side art is usually more expensive, running from $50-$300 for a complete set.
#'''Availability of repro artwork:''' If your favorite game is Ms. Pac Man you will find the art readily available for sale through an online dealer, at an auction or on eBay for a reasonable price. If however your favorite game happened to be [http://www.macmame.net/klov/defnder3.html Defender 3] chances are you are not going to easily find repro or new old stock (NOS) to use on your cab. If you are trying to restore a cabinet to its authentic former glory it may be worth waiting to find something to complete your masterpiece. If you are not restoring, just pick something else cool...at least that way your cabinet will look good while you're trying to find the rare stuff.
#'''Accuracy of available reproduction artwork:''' While most reproduction houses have high quality artwork available, you may want to investigate the quality & reputation a little bit before you lay down your hard earned cash. Ask questions about the vendor & about the specific piece of repro art at places like [http://groups.google.com/group/rec.games.video.arcade.collecting?lnk=lr&hl=en RGVAC] or in the [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/board,13.0.html artwork section of BYOAC.] In my past experience of dealing with repro art I have occasionally been dissatisfied with the material thickness, detail, and color of various pieces from various vendors. In many instances you will have a tough time getting your money back, so it's best to ask your questions first. If you really know what you want, you may find that repro art does not accurately capture proper color, appliqué (foil, embossing) detail, material (smooth, rough, textured,) thickness, strength, or opacity (in the case of marquees or bezels.) Many repro dealers and repro artwork sites may not have access to pristine NOS art to sample when they create repros and their printing method may not capture the original color (like Pac Man yellow) so you may have to settle for "pretty good" in some cases unless you are looking for absolute restoration style accuracy. In that case, buy NOS if you can find it.
#'''Ease of application:''' In most cases adding artwork should be fairly simple for the average person. Most of it involves the use of adhesives and patience. Many Williams machines use stenciled paint for side and front art and accurate reproduction requires some skill, equipment and practice. If you don't have the patience to spend days doing the necessary preparation and execution required to paint with stencils, you may want to purchase repro stickers instead. If you have absolutely zero patience, you may want to avoid buying large pieces of full side-art stickers (like Centipede) as well. Applying very large stickers requires some skill to reduce bubbles and wrinkles when applying the art. Marquees, correctly sized bezels and CPOs are fairly easy to apply and the average person should not have a problem.

=Resto-mod graphics=
{| align=right
| valign="top"|
[[image:defendercade.jpg|thumb|100px|Defender-Style Marquee]]
[[image:pacmamea.jpg|thumb|100px|1Uparcade.com's Pacmamea]]
|[[image:defmod.jpg|thumb|100px|Defender Control Panel modded for more controls]]
|}
Resto-mod is basically anything that is based on a classic design, but does not fully reproduce the original design. There are a few reasons to choose the resto-mod route;

#'''Cost:''' It's cheaper to just put a Defender marquee and control panel on your cabinet than it is to add bezel, side and front art as well. A marquee and CPO might cost a total of $70, while the full kit might cost $200 to $300.
#'''Personal touches:''' "Dee Fender," "LeeVious," "Jim's Pac Man," marquee titles all of questionable taste... but real examples. Each display a little of the personality of the owner.
#'''Making a statement:''' Many people want their machine to be seen as more than a just a box for ONE game. Defendercade, Pacmamea, Hyper-Galaxian. Each marquee title implies that the cabinet is more than just a simple arcade classic.
#'''Physical differences:''' Different sizes of cabinets, different shapes, different configurations of controls on the control panel are a few reasons that physical differences may require you to modify the art of a classic design. For instance, If you love the art from Galaga, but have a generic Dynamo cab, you might have to alter the art a little bit to fit the different cabinet shape. If you are building a Defender shaped cabinet, but want to use a trackball and spinner in addition to the standard defender buttons, you will have to make a few changes to the original defender CPO design.

Resto-mod can be a great shortcut to making a cool cabinet, without some of the cost and complexity involved in fully reproducing the original design. If you aren't careful though, your cabinet can also end up looking cheap and boring, with the art obviously a silly afterthought. Slapping a Galaxian marquee on your cabinet won't in itself make your box look great. A well thought out theme based on a classic design, however, can have some striking results. Great resto-mod designs capture the spirit of the original theme blending the changes perfectly with original art, while adding a dimension of uniqueness, rather than looking like pale imitators.

=Original theme graphics=
{| align=right
| valign="top"|
[[image:heavymetal.jpg|thumb|100px|Heavy Metal Cabinet by...]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:potter.jpg|thumb|100px|Hogwarts Cabinet by Nannuu]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:paranoids1.jpg|thumb|100px|Space Paranoids Cabinet by Jarrett]]

|}
The most creative and striking cabinets that you'll find are well done original themed cabinets. Executing the creation and design of your own personal themed cabinet can be one of the most difficult methods of adding artwork to your cabinet. The payoffs are huge however, you'll have a great looking cab, a certified point of interest in your game room, and [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Martin_Prince infinite hit points.] Creating your own art can be a costly, time consuming and technically difficult option, so you may wan to consider the following before you begin your theme;
#Will your theme look good in five years? You don't want to get stuck with a cabinet that's as painful to look at as a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Faster_Pussycat faster pussycat] tattoo.
# If your theme is going to be based on pop culture stuff (like sports teams, movies, or cartoons) can you find enough [[high resolution]] artwork to cover a marquee, control panel and side art?
# If you have a completely original theme, do you realistically have the time and skill to create artwork from scratch?
#Do you have the correct [[design applications]] to create your art?
#If you are creating side art, you may want to shop around the cost of printing full size side art before you begin. It may be expensive, or even impossible to get art printed large enough to fit your full sized cabinet. You may have to make some sacrifices.
#If your concept is awesome, would it be worth a few hundred $$$ to pay somebody to create it for you? You might even find a friend or an art student to give you a little help for free.

It's easy for a custom theme to become an unnattractive hodge podge if you're not careful. Planning is key. Choose your theme and do your best to stick to your theme with each piece that you create. If you get tired of the theme while doing a specific piece, don't change gears... it's probably best to abandon the entire theme if you're already sick of it. Just because you have a cool marquee design, but can't think of anything else for the sides or CPO doesn't mean you should go ahead and have the marquee printed. It might be better to choose something else. Before you start your theme, create a budget for each piece you would like to create (cost of a custom CPO, marquee, side art) add at least 15-20% on top of that cost to cover shipping, and any tools and miscellaneous parts for attaching and hacking... make sure you'll have enough dough to complete the full theme. You should price out different options with different printers. If you can't get a quote, chances are that what you're looking for is either inaccessible or prohibitevely expensie. Ask questions about the materials and printing techniques if you have any questions. You want to ensure that your art will look good, and last through lots of abuse. If you have guests... it WILL get some abuse. If you have enough cash and the perfect theme, then it's time to begin the design.

If you'd like a few suggestions on design, head over to the [[Creating Your Own Art From Scratch]] page.

=Physical design=
If you are more into tools & gadgets than you are into graphics & design programs, you may be more interested in building a cabinet that derives its visual interest from the materials and objects incorporated into it. The options are endless, its just up to you and your imagination. Metals, neon, chrome, velure, lexan, and varnished wood, cardboard, have all been used as materials for cabinet building by clever enthusiasts. How far can you push your design? Take a look at some of the examples for inspiration.

{|
| valign="top"|
[[image:knievel_cab1.jpg|thumb|100px|Knievel's Neon MAME cabinet]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:lexanclearmspac.jpg|thumb|100px|Clear Lexan Ms. PacMan]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:armoire.jpg|thumb|100px|Armoire machine]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:systemseven.jpg|thumb|100px|System Seven Machine]]
|}

=Hodge Podge=
Hodge Podge is a nice way of describing cabinet art that has had little planning, and little in the way of effort at applying any art. If you hodge podge the art, you will find that the results rarely turn out to make a powerful statement. If you really have little time to think about the art, it may be best to simply paint the cabinet, and maybe add some colored t-molding to add a little pop.

How you design your art is a matter of taste, that's true. Regardless of your particular taste, you should make a plan before you begin applying art. All of the techniques I mention below '''can''' be part of a well done cabinet. The techniques used in a hodge-podge cabinet aren't the real problem. Lack of thought will be the true failure.

You can always redo your cabinet, so feel free to try things out, experiment, cut corners if you're trying to save money. Be honest with yourself when you are done though. Solicit the input of friends and family to see what they think, evaluate the quality of the finished product. If others dislike your cabinet but you like the look of it, then defend your decisions as a matter of taste. If you agree with them, consider planning a new design, and be prepared to take some time with the execution.

It's understandeable that you may want to immediately get to playing your games rather than working on the art. If that's truly the case it's probably best to do next to nothing with the art at all, rather than scraping together whatever you have handy to adorn your cabinet as cheaply and quickly as possible. Examples of this style involve a combination of mismatched colors, mixed themes, decoupage using cutouts from magazines or images printed from a printer and pasted or laquered onto a cabinet, contact paper or wallpaper, or movie posters adhered to the cabinet. Poor use of materials is also a hallmark of a poorly done cabinet, the appearance of extra glue, poorly made cuts with scissors, marred stickers or paper, irregular lines, hand written type will reduce the overal greatness of your otherwise worthy cabinet. This may sound laughable, but it is fairly common. If you are going to the trouble of building a cabinet from scratch, or buying hundreds of dollars in parts to restore a cabinet, the finished product should look professional. Don't let the art be the weak link.

[http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/board,13.0.html The BYOAC Artwork Pages] are a great place to ask questions about design programs, general design, production issues, vendors, and to request a critique of your artwork. A few suggestions by interested invividuals may go a long way to helping you improve on your themed artwork. Don't hesitate to ask for help, it's encouraged.

==See Also==
* [[Finishing]]
* [[Vendors|Artwork Vendors]]

[[Category:Finishing]]

Overview & Options to Consider

2007-06-06T01:04:59Z

Apollo: /* Restoration graphics */

Adding graphics to your cabinet can transform it from an oversized PC case into a classic machine that looks like it came straight out of a real arcade. It is the final touches that can make or break a great cabinet. The right choice of artwork and details can make a generic cabinet look simply amazing, while poorly done artwork options can make the most inventive cabinet design look dull. Although it is easy to overlook this area of cabinet building, it should be considered a crucial final step in creating your personal piece of arcade history.

There are generally 5 main approaches to designing the look of your cabinet that you may want to consider early in the planning phase of your cabinet. Each has drawbacks, and each requires varying degrees of skill to execute. Find detailed descriptions below.

More information to come;
=Restoration graphics=
One of the most straightforward methods of adding some pizzaz to your cabinet is to use reproduction (repro) artwork based on your favorite game. There are many distinctive cabinets that have been released over the years: Pac-Man, Galaga, Galaxian etc (all of the Williams cabinets!) and a lot of the artwork is still reproduced by reputable dealers and readily available. If you choose to use repro art there are a few things you need to consider:

#'''Cost of reproduction graphics:''' Bezels, marquees and control panel overlays (CPOs)are usually fairly inexpensive and easily obtainable with prices in the $10-$50 range. Side art is usually more expensive, running from $50-$300 for a complete set.
#'''Availability of repro artwork:''' If your favorite game is Ms. Pac Man you will find the art readily available for sale through an online dealer, at an auction or on eBay for a reasonable price. If however your favorite game happened to be [http://www.macmame.net/klov/defnder3.html Defender 3] chances are you are not going to easily find repro or new old stock (NOS) to use on your cab. If you are trying to restore a cabinet to its authentic former glory it may be worth waiting to find something to complete your masterpiece. If you are not restoring, just pick something else cool...at least that way your cabinet will look good while you're trying to find the rare stuff.
#'''Accuracy of available reproduction artwork:''' While most reproduction houses have high quality artwork available, you may want to investigate the quality & reputation a little bit before you lay down your hard earned cash. Ask questions about the vendor & about the specific piece of repro art at places like [http://groups.google.com/group/rec.games.video.arcade.collecting?lnk=lr&hl=en RGVAC] or in the [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/board,13.0.html artwork section of BYOAC.] In my past experience of dealing with repro art I have occasionally been dissatisfied with the material thickness, detail, and color of various pieces from various vendors. In many instances you will have a tough time getting your money back, so it's best to ask your questions first. If you really know what you want, you may find that repro art does not accurately capture proper color, appliqué (foil, embossing) detail, material (smooth, rough, textured,) thickness, strength, or opacity (in the case of marquees or bezels.) Many repro dealers and repro artwork sites may not have access to pristine NOS art to sample when they create repros and their printing method may not capture the original color (like Pac Man yellow) so you may have to settle for "pretty good" in some cases unless you are looking for absolute restoration style accuracy. In that case, buy NOS if you can find it.
#'''Ease of application:''' In most cases adding artwork should be fairly simple for the average person. Most of it involves the use of adhesives and patience. Many Williams machines use stenciled paint for side and front art and accurate reproduction requires some skill, equipment and practice. If you don't have the patience to spend days doing the necessary preparation and execution required to paint with stencils, you may want to purchase repro stickers instead. If you have absolutely zero patience, you may want to avoid buying large pieces of full side-art stickers (like Centipede) as well. Applying very large stickers requires some skill to reduce bubbles and wrinkles when applying the art. Marquees, correctly sized bezels and CPOs are fairly easy to apply and the average person should not have a problem.

=Resto-mod graphics=
{| align=right
| valign="top"|
[[image:defendercade.jpg|thumb|100px|Defender-Style Marquee]]
[[image:pacmamea.jpg|thumb|100px|1Uparcade.com's Pacmamea]]
|[[image:defmod.jpg|thumb|100px|Defender Control Panel modded for more controls]]
|}
Resto-mod is basically anything that is based on a classic design, but does not fully reproduce the original design. There are a few reasons to choose the resto-mod route;

#'''Cost''' It's cheaper to just put a Defender marquee and control panel on your cabinet than it is to add bezel, side and front art as well. A marquee and CPO might cost a total of $70, while the full kit might cost $200 to $300.
#'''Personal touches''' "Dee Fender," "LeeVious," "Jim's Pac Man," marquee titles all of questionable taste... but real examples. Each display a little of the personality of the owner.
#'''Making a statement''' Many people want their machine to be seen as more than a just a box for ONE game. Defendercade, Pacmamea, Hyper-Galaxian. Each marquee title implies that the cabinet is more than just a simple arcade classic.
#'''Physical differences''' Different sizes of cabinets, different shapes, different configurations of controls on the control panel are a few reasons that physical differences may require you to modify the art of a classic design. For instance, If you love the art from Galaga, but have a generic Dynamo cab, you might have to alter the art a little bit to fit the different cabinet shape. If you are building a Defender shaped cabinet, but want to use a trackball and spinner in addition to the standard defender buttons, you will have to make a few changes to the original defender CPO design.

Resto-mod can be a great shortcut to making a cool cabinet, without some of the cost and complexity involved in fully reproducing the original design. If you aren't careful though, your cabinet can also end up looking cheap and boring, with the art obviously a silly afterthought. Slapping a Galaxian marquee on your cabinet won't in itself make your box look great. A well thought out theme based on a classic design, however, can have some striking results. Great resto-mod designs capture the spirit of the original theme blending the changes perfectly with original art, while adding a dimension of uniqueness, rather than looking like pale imitators.

=Original theme graphics=
{| align=right
| valign="top"|
[[image:heavymetal.jpg|thumb|100px|Heavy Metal Cabinet by...]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:potter.jpg|thumb|100px|Hogwarts Cabinet by Nannuu]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:paranoids1.jpg|thumb|100px|Space Paranoids Cabinet by Jarrett]]

|}
The most creative and striking cabinets that you'll find are well done original themed cabinets. Executing the creation and design of your own personal themed cabinet can be one of the most difficult methods of adding artwork to your cabinet. The payoffs are huge however, you'll have a great looking cab, a certified point of interest in your game room, and [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Martin_Prince infinite hit points.] Creating your own art can be a costly, time consuming and technically difficult option, so you may wan to consider the following before you begin your theme;
#Will your theme look good in five years? You don't want to get stuck with a cabinet that's as painful to look at as a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Faster_Pussycat faster pussycat] tattoo.
# If your theme is going to be based on pop culture stuff (like sports teams, movies, or cartoons) can you find enough [[high resolution]] artwork to cover a marquee, control panel and side art?
# If you have a completely original theme, do you realistically have the time and skill to create artwork from scratch?
#Do you have the correct [[design applications]] to create your art?
#If you are creating side art, you may want to shop around the cost of printing full size side art before you begin. It may be expensive, or even impossible to get art printed large enough to fit your full sized cabinet. You may have to make some sacrifices.
#If your concept is awesome, would it be worth a few hundred $$$ to pay somebody to create it for you? You might even find a friend or an art student to give you a little help for free.

It's easy for a custom theme to become an unnattractive hodge podge if you're not careful. Planning is key. Choose your theme and do your best to stick to your theme with each piece that you create. If you get tired of the theme while doing a specific piece, don't change gears... it's probably best to abandon the entire theme if you're already sick of it. Just because you have a cool marquee design, but can't think of anything else for the sides or CPO doesn't mean you should go ahead and have the marquee printed. It might be better to choose something else. Before you start your theme, create a budget for each piece you would like to create (cost of a custom CPO, marquee, side art) add at least 15-20% on top of that cost to cover shipping, and any tools and miscellaneous parts for attaching and hacking... make sure you'll have enough dough to complete the full theme. You should price out different options with different printers. If you can't get a quote, chances are that what you're looking for is either inaccessible or prohibitevely expensie. Ask questions about the materials and printing techniques if you have any questions. You want to ensure that your art will look good, and last through lots of abuse. If you have guests... it WILL get some abuse. If you have enough cash and the perfect theme, then it's time to begin the design.

If you'd like a few suggestions on design, head over to the [[Creating Your Own Art From Scratch]] page.

=Physical design=
If you are more into tools & gadgets than you are into graphics & design programs, you may be more interested in building a cabinet that derives its visual interest from the materials and objects incorporated into it. The options are endless, its just up to you and your imagination. Metals, neon, chrome, velure, lexan, and varnished wood, cardboard, have all been used as materials for cabinet building by clever enthusiasts. How far can you push your design? Take a look at some of the examples for inspiration.

{|
| valign="top"|
[[image:knievel_cab1.jpg|thumb|100px|Knievel's Neon MAME cabinet]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:lexanclearmspac.jpg|thumb|100px|Clear Lexan Ms. PacMan]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:armoire.jpg|thumb|100px|Armoire machine]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:systemseven.jpg|thumb|100px|System Seven Machine]]
|}

=Hodge Podge=
Hodge Podge is a nice way of describing cabinet art that has had little planning, and little in the way of effort at applying any art. If you hodge podge the art, you will find that the results rarely turn out to make a powerful statement. If you really have little time to think about the art, it may be best to simply paint the cabinet, and maybe add some colored t-molding to add a little pop.

How you design your art is a matter of taste, that's true. Regardless of your particular taste, you should make a plan before you begin applying art. All of the techniques I mention below '''can''' be part of a well done cabinet. The techniques used in a hodge-podge cabinet aren't the real problem. Lack of thought will be the true failure.

You can always redo your cabinet, so feel free to try things out, experiment, cut corners if you're trying to save money. Be honest with yourself when you are done though. Solicit the input of friends and family to see what they think, evaluate the quality of the finished product. If others dislike your cabinet but you like the look of it, then defend your decisions as a matter of taste. If you agree with them, consider planning a new design, and be prepared to take some time with the execution.

It's understandeable that you may want to immediately get to playing your games rather than working on the art. If that's truly the case it's probably best to do next to nothing with the art at all, rather than scraping together whatever you have handy to adorn your cabinet as cheaply and quickly as possible. Examples of this style involve a combination of mismatched colors, mixed themes, decoupage using cutouts from magazines or images printed from a printer and pasted or laquered onto a cabinet, contact paper or wallpaper, or movie posters adhered to the cabinet. Poor use of materials is also a hallmark of a poorly done cabinet, the appearance of extra glue, poorly made cuts with scissors, marred stickers or paper, irregular lines, hand written type will reduce the overal greatness of your otherwise worthy cabinet. This may sound laughable, but it is fairly common. If you are going to the trouble of building a cabinet from scratch, or buying hundreds of dollars in parts to restore a cabinet, the finished product should look professional. Don't let the art be the weak link.

[http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/board,13.0.html The BYOAC Artwork Pages] are a great place to ask questions about design programs, general design, production issues, vendors, and to request a critique of your artwork. A few suggestions by interested invividuals may go a long way to helping you improve on your themed artwork. Don't hesitate to ask for help, it's encouraged.

==See Also==
* [[Finishing]]
* [[Vendors|Artwork Vendors]]

[[Category:Finishing]]

Overview & Options to Consider

2007-06-06T00:57:35Z

Apollo: /* Restoration graphics */

Adding graphics to your cabinet can transform it from an oversized PC case into a classic machine that looks like it came straight out of a real arcade. It is the final touches that can make or break a great cabinet. The right choice of artwork and details can make a generic cabinet look simply amazing, while poorly done artwork options can make the most inventive cabinet design look dull. Although it is easy to overlook this area of cabinet building, it should be considered a crucial final step in creating your personal piece of arcade history.

There are generally 5 main approaches to designing the look of your cabinet that you may want to consider early in the planning phase of your cabinet. Each has drawbacks, and each requires varying degrees of skill to execute. Find detailed descriptions below.

More information to come;
=Restoration graphics=
One of the most straightforward methods of adding some pizzaz to your cabinet is to use reproduction (repro) artwork based on your favorite game. There are many distinctive cabinets that have been released over the years: Pac-Man, Galaga, Galaxian etc (all of the Williams cabinets!) and a lot of the artwork is still reproduced by reputable dealers and readily available. If you choose to use repro art there are a few things you need to consider:

#'''Cost of reproduction graphics:''' Bezels, marquees and control panel overlays are usually fairly inexpensive and easily obtainable with prices in the $10-$50 range. Side art is usually more expensive, running from $50-$300 for a complete set.
#'''Availability of repro artwork:''' If your favorite game is Ms. Pac Man you will find the art readily available for sale through an online dealer, at an auction or on eBay for a reasonable price. If however your favorite game happened to be [http://www.macmame.net/klov/defnder3.html Defender 3] chances are you are not going to easily find repro or new old stock (NOS) to use on your cab. If you are trying to restore a cabinet to its authentic former glory it may be worth waiting to find something to complete your masterpiece. If you are not restoring, just pick something else cool...at least that way your cabinet will look good while you're trying to find the rare stuff.
#'''Accuracy of available reproduction artwork:''' While most reproduction houses have high quality artwork available, you may want to investigate the quality & reputation a little bit before you lay down your hard earned cash. Ask questions about the vendor & about the specific piece of repro art at places like [http://groups.google.com/group/rec.games.video.arcade.collecting?lnk=lr&hl=en RGVAC] or in the [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/board,13.0.html artwork section of BYOAC.] In my past experience of dealing with repro art I have occasionally been dissatisfied with the material thickness, detail, and color of various pieces from various vendors. In many instances you will have a tough time getting your money back, so it's best to ask your questions first. If you really know what you want, you may find that repro art does not accurately capture proper color, appliqué (foil, embossing) detail, material (smooth, rough, textured,) thickness, strength, or opacity (in the case of marquees or bezels.) Many repro dealers and repro artwork sites may not have access to pristine NOS art to sample when they create repros and their printing method may not capture the original color (like Pac Man yellow) so you may have to settle for "pretty good" in some cases unless you are looking for absolute restoration style accuracy. In that case, buy NOS if you can find it.
#'''Difficulty of application of the artwork:''' In most cases adding artwork should be fairly simple for the average person. Most of it involves the use of adhesives and patience. Many Williams machines use stenciled paint for side and front art, however, and accurate reproduction requires some skill, equipment, and practice. If you don't have the patience to spend days doing the necessary prep & execution required to paint with stencils, you may want to purchase repro stickers instead. If you have absolutely zero patience, you may want to avoid buying large pieces of full side-art stickers (like Centipede) as well. Applying very large stickers requires some skill to reduce bubbles and wrinkles when applying the art. Marquees, correctly sized bezels, and CPOs are fairly easy to apply and the average person should not have a problem.

=Resto-mod graphics=
{| align=right
| valign="top"|
[[image:defendercade.jpg|thumb|100px|Defender-Style Marquee]]
[[image:pacmamea.jpg|thumb|100px|1Uparcade.com's Pacmamea]]
|[[image:defmod.jpg|thumb|100px|Defender Control Panel modded for more controls]]
|}
Resto-mod is basically anything that is based on a classic design, but does not fully reproduce the original design. There are a few reasons to choose the resto-mod route;

#'''Cost''' It's cheaper to just put a Defender marquee and control panel on your cabinet than it is to add bezel, side and front art as well. A marquee and CPO might cost a total of $70, while the full kit might cost $200 to $300.
#'''Personal touches''' "Dee Fender," "LeeVious," "Jim's Pac Man," marquee titles all of questionable taste... but real examples. Each display a little of the personality of the owner.
#'''Making a statement''' Many people want their machine to be seen as more than a just a box for ONE game. Defendercade, Pacmamea, Hyper-Galaxian. Each marquee title implies that the cabinet is more than just a simple arcade classic.
#'''Physical differences''' Different sizes of cabinets, different shapes, different configurations of controls on the control panel are a few reasons that physical differences may require you to modify the art of a classic design. For instance, If you love the art from Galaga, but have a generic Dynamo cab, you might have to alter the art a little bit to fit the different cabinet shape. If you are building a Defender shaped cabinet, but want to use a trackball and spinner in addition to the standard defender buttons, you will have to make a few changes to the original defender CPO design.

Resto-mod can be a great shortcut to making a cool cabinet, without some of the cost and complexity involved in fully reproducing the original design. If you aren't careful though, your cabinet can also end up looking cheap and boring, with the art obviously a silly afterthought. Slapping a Galaxian marquee on your cabinet won't in itself make your box look great. A well thought out theme based on a classic design, however, can have some striking results. Great resto-mod designs capture the spirit of the original theme blending the changes perfectly with original art, while adding a dimension of uniqueness, rather than looking like pale imitators.

=Original theme graphics=
{| align=right
| valign="top"|
[[image:heavymetal.jpg|thumb|100px|Heavy Metal Cabinet by...]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:potter.jpg|thumb|100px|Hogwarts Cabinet by Nannuu]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:paranoids1.jpg|thumb|100px|Space Paranoids Cabinet by Jarrett]]

|}
The most creative and striking cabinets that you'll find are well done original themed cabinets. Executing the creation and design of your own personal themed cabinet can be one of the most difficult methods of adding artwork to your cabinet. The payoffs are huge however, you'll have a great looking cab, a certified point of interest in your game room, and [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Martin_Prince infinite hit points.] Creating your own art can be a costly, time consuming and technically difficult option, so you may wan to consider the following before you begin your theme;
#Will your theme look good in five years? You don't want to get stuck with a cabinet that's as painful to look at as a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Faster_Pussycat faster pussycat] tattoo.
# If your theme is going to be based on pop culture stuff (like sports teams, movies, or cartoons) can you find enough [[high resolution]] artwork to cover a marquee, control panel and side art?
# If you have a completely original theme, do you realistically have the time and skill to create artwork from scratch?
#Do you have the correct [[design applications]] to create your art?
#If you are creating side art, you may want to shop around the cost of printing full size side art before you begin. It may be expensive, or even impossible to get art printed large enough to fit your full sized cabinet. You may have to make some sacrifices.
#If your concept is awesome, would it be worth a few hundred $$$ to pay somebody to create it for you? You might even find a friend or an art student to give you a little help for free.

It's easy for a custom theme to become an unnattractive hodge podge if you're not careful. Planning is key. Choose your theme and do your best to stick to your theme with each piece that you create. If you get tired of the theme while doing a specific piece, don't change gears... it's probably best to abandon the entire theme if you're already sick of it. Just because you have a cool marquee design, but can't think of anything else for the sides or CPO doesn't mean you should go ahead and have the marquee printed. It might be better to choose something else. Before you start your theme, create a budget for each piece you would like to create (cost of a custom CPO, marquee, side art) add at least 15-20% on top of that cost to cover shipping, and any tools and miscellaneous parts for attaching and hacking... make sure you'll have enough dough to complete the full theme. You should price out different options with different printers. If you can't get a quote, chances are that what you're looking for is either inaccessible or prohibitevely expensie. Ask questions about the materials and printing techniques if you have any questions. You want to ensure that your art will look good, and last through lots of abuse. If you have guests... it WILL get some abuse. If you have enough cash and the perfect theme, then it's time to begin the design.

If you'd like a few suggestions on design, head over to the [[Creating Your Own Art From Scratch]] page.

=Physical design=
If you are more into tools & gadgets than you are into graphics & design programs, you may be more interested in building a cabinet that derives its visual interest from the materials and objects incorporated into it. The options are endless, its just up to you and your imagination. Metals, neon, chrome, velure, lexan, and varnished wood, cardboard, have all been used as materials for cabinet building by clever enthusiasts. How far can you push your design? Take a look at some of the examples for inspiration.

{|
| valign="top"|
[[image:knievel_cab1.jpg|thumb|100px|Knievel's Neon MAME cabinet]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:lexanclearmspac.jpg|thumb|100px|Clear Lexan Ms. PacMan]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:armoire.jpg|thumb|100px|Armoire machine]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:systemseven.jpg|thumb|100px|System Seven Machine]]
|}

=Hodge Podge=
Hodge Podge is a nice way of describing cabinet art that has had little planning, and little in the way of effort at applying any art. If you hodge podge the art, you will find that the results rarely turn out to make a powerful statement. If you really have little time to think about the art, it may be best to simply paint the cabinet, and maybe add some colored t-molding to add a little pop.

How you design your art is a matter of taste, that's true. Regardless of your particular taste, you should make a plan before you begin applying art. All of the techniques I mention below '''can''' be part of a well done cabinet. The techniques used in a hodge-podge cabinet aren't the real problem. Lack of thought will be the true failure.

You can always redo your cabinet, so feel free to try things out, experiment, cut corners if you're trying to save money. Be honest with yourself when you are done though. Solicit the input of friends and family to see what they think, evaluate the quality of the finished product. If others dislike your cabinet but you like the look of it, then defend your decisions as a matter of taste. If you agree with them, consider planning a new design, and be prepared to take some time with the execution.

It's understandeable that you may want to immediately get to playing your games rather than working on the art. If that's truly the case it's probably best to do next to nothing with the art at all, rather than scraping together whatever you have handy to adorn your cabinet as cheaply and quickly as possible. Examples of this style involve a combination of mismatched colors, mixed themes, decoupage using cutouts from magazines or images printed from a printer and pasted or laquered onto a cabinet, contact paper or wallpaper, or movie posters adhered to the cabinet. Poor use of materials is also a hallmark of a poorly done cabinet, the appearance of extra glue, poorly made cuts with scissors, marred stickers or paper, irregular lines, hand written type will reduce the overal greatness of your otherwise worthy cabinet. This may sound laughable, but it is fairly common. If you are going to the trouble of building a cabinet from scratch, or buying hundreds of dollars in parts to restore a cabinet, the finished product should look professional. Don't let the art be the weak link.

[http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/board,13.0.html The BYOAC Artwork Pages] are a great place to ask questions about design programs, general design, production issues, vendors, and to request a critique of your artwork. A few suggestions by interested invividuals may go a long way to helping you improve on your themed artwork. Don't hesitate to ask for help, it's encouraged.

==See Also==
* [[Finishing]]
* [[Vendors|Artwork Vendors]]

[[Category:Finishing]]

Overview & Options to Consider

2007-06-06T00:54:12Z

Apollo: /* Restoration graphics */

Adding graphics to your cabinet can transform it from an oversized PC case into a classic machine that looks like it came straight out of a real arcade. It is the final touches that can make or break a great cabinet. The right choice of artwork and details can make a generic cabinet look simply amazing, while poorly done artwork options can make the most inventive cabinet design look dull. Although it is easy to overlook this area of cabinet building, it should be considered a crucial final step in creating your personal piece of arcade history.

There are generally 5 main approaches to designing the look of your cabinet that you may want to consider early in the planning phase of your cabinet. Each has drawbacks, and each requires varying degrees of skill to execute. Find detailed descriptions below.

More information to come;
=Restoration graphics=
One of the most straightforward methods of adding some pizzaz to your cabinet is to use reproduction (repro) artwork based on your favorite game. There are many distinctive cabinets that have been released over the years: Pac-Man, Galaga and Galaxian etc (all of the Williams cabinets!) for which artwork is still reproduced by reputable dealers and readily available. If you choose to use repro art there are a few things you need to consider:

#'''Cost of reproduction graphics:''' Bezels, marquees and control panel overlays are usually fairly inexpensive and easily obtainable with prices in the $10-$50 range. Side art is usually more expensive, running from $50-$300 for a complete set.
#'''Availability of repro artwork:''' If your favorite game is Ms. Pac Man you will find the art readily available for sale through an online dealer, at an auction or on eBay for a reasonable price. If however your favorite game happened to be [http://www.macmame.net/klov/defnder3.html Defender 3] chances are you are not going to easily find repro or new old stock (NOS) to use on your cab. If you are trying to restore a cabinet to its authentic former glory it may be worth waiting to find something to complete your masterpiece. If you are not restoring, just pick something else cool...at least that way your cabinet will look good while you're trying to find the rare stuff.
#'''Accuracy of available reproduction artwork:''' While most reproduction houses have high quality artwork available, you may want to investigate the quality & reputation a little bit before you lay down your hard earned cash. Ask questions about the vendor & about the specific piece of repro art at places like [http://groups.google.com/group/rec.games.video.arcade.collecting?lnk=lr&hl=en RGVAC] or in the [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/board,13.0.html artwork section of BYOAC.] In my past experience of dealing with repro art I have occasionally been dissatisfied with the material thickness, detail, and color of various pieces from various vendors. In many instances you will have a tough time getting your money back, so it's best to ask your questions first. If you really know what you want, you may find that repro art does not accurately capture proper color, appliqué (foil, embossing) detail, material (smooth, rough, textured,) thickness, strength, or opacity (in the case of marquees or bezels.) Many repro dealers and repro artwork sites may not have access to pristine NOS art to sample when they create repros and their printing method may not capture the original color (like Pac Man yellow) so you may have to settle for "pretty good" in some cases unless you are looking for absolute restoration style accuracy. In that case, buy NOS if you can find it.
#'''Difficulty of application of the artwork:''' In most cases adding artwork should be fairly simple for the average person. Most of it involves the use of adhesives and patience. Many Williams machines use stenciled paint for side and front art, however, and accurate reproduction requires some skill, equipment, and practice. If you don't have the patience to spend days doing the necessary prep & execution required to paint with stencils, you may want to purchase repro stickers instead. If you have absolutely zero patience, you may want to avoid buying large pieces of full side-art stickers (like Centipede) as well. Applying very large stickers requires some skill to reduce bubbles and wrinkles when applying the art. Marquees, correctly sized bezels, and CPOs are fairly easy to apply and the average person should not have a problem.

=Resto-mod graphics=
{| align=right
| valign="top"|
[[image:defendercade.jpg|thumb|100px|Defender-Style Marquee]]
[[image:pacmamea.jpg|thumb|100px|1Uparcade.com's Pacmamea]]
|[[image:defmod.jpg|thumb|100px|Defender Control Panel modded for more controls]]
|}
Resto-mod is basically anything that is based on a classic design, but does not fully reproduce the original design. There are a few reasons to choose the resto-mod route;

#'''Cost''' It's cheaper to just put a Defender marquee and control panel on your cabinet than it is to add bezel, side and front art as well. A marquee and CPO might cost a total of $70, while the full kit might cost $200 to $300.
#'''Personal touches''' "Dee Fender," "LeeVious," "Jim's Pac Man," marquee titles all of questionable taste... but real examples. Each display a little of the personality of the owner.
#'''Making a statement''' Many people want their machine to be seen as more than a just a box for ONE game. Defendercade, Pacmamea, Hyper-Galaxian. Each marquee title implies that the cabinet is more than just a simple arcade classic.
#'''Physical differences''' Different sizes of cabinets, different shapes, different configurations of controls on the control panel are a few reasons that physical differences may require you to modify the art of a classic design. For instance, If you love the art from Galaga, but have a generic Dynamo cab, you might have to alter the art a little bit to fit the different cabinet shape. If you are building a Defender shaped cabinet, but want to use a trackball and spinner in addition to the standard defender buttons, you will have to make a few changes to the original defender CPO design.

Resto-mod can be a great shortcut to making a cool cabinet, without some of the cost and complexity involved in fully reproducing the original design. If you aren't careful though, your cabinet can also end up looking cheap and boring, with the art obviously a silly afterthought. Slapping a Galaxian marquee on your cabinet won't in itself make your box look great. A well thought out theme based on a classic design, however, can have some striking results. Great resto-mod designs capture the spirit of the original theme blending the changes perfectly with original art, while adding a dimension of uniqueness, rather than looking like pale imitators.

=Original theme graphics=
{| align=right
| valign="top"|
[[image:heavymetal.jpg|thumb|100px|Heavy Metal Cabinet by...]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:potter.jpg|thumb|100px|Hogwarts Cabinet by Nannuu]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:paranoids1.jpg|thumb|100px|Space Paranoids Cabinet by Jarrett]]

|}
The most creative and striking cabinets that you'll find are well done original themed cabinets. Executing the creation and design of your own personal themed cabinet can be one of the most difficult methods of adding artwork to your cabinet. The payoffs are huge however, you'll have a great looking cab, a certified point of interest in your game room, and [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Martin_Prince infinite hit points.] Creating your own art can be a costly, time consuming and technically difficult option, so you may wan to consider the following before you begin your theme;
#Will your theme look good in five years? You don't want to get stuck with a cabinet that's as painful to look at as a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Faster_Pussycat faster pussycat] tattoo.
# If your theme is going to be based on pop culture stuff (like sports teams, movies, or cartoons) can you find enough [[high resolution]] artwork to cover a marquee, control panel and side art?
# If you have a completely original theme, do you realistically have the time and skill to create artwork from scratch?
#Do you have the correct [[design applications]] to create your art?
#If you are creating side art, you may want to shop around the cost of printing full size side art before you begin. It may be expensive, or even impossible to get art printed large enough to fit your full sized cabinet. You may have to make some sacrifices.
#If your concept is awesome, would it be worth a few hundred $$$ to pay somebody to create it for you? You might even find a friend or an art student to give you a little help for free.

It's easy for a custom theme to become an unnattractive hodge podge if you're not careful. Planning is key. Choose your theme and do your best to stick to your theme with each piece that you create. If you get tired of the theme while doing a specific piece, don't change gears... it's probably best to abandon the entire theme if you're already sick of it. Just because you have a cool marquee design, but can't think of anything else for the sides or CPO doesn't mean you should go ahead and have the marquee printed. It might be better to choose something else. Before you start your theme, create a budget for each piece you would like to create (cost of a custom CPO, marquee, side art) add at least 15-20% on top of that cost to cover shipping, and any tools and miscellaneous parts for attaching and hacking... make sure you'll have enough dough to complete the full theme. You should price out different options with different printers. If you can't get a quote, chances are that what you're looking for is either inaccessible or prohibitevely expensie. Ask questions about the materials and printing techniques if you have any questions. You want to ensure that your art will look good, and last through lots of abuse. If you have guests... it WILL get some abuse. If you have enough cash and the perfect theme, then it's time to begin the design.

If you'd like a few suggestions on design, head over to the [[Creating Your Own Art From Scratch]] page.

=Physical design=
If you are more into tools & gadgets than you are into graphics & design programs, you may be more interested in building a cabinet that derives its visual interest from the materials and objects incorporated into it. The options are endless, its just up to you and your imagination. Metals, neon, chrome, velure, lexan, and varnished wood, cardboard, have all been used as materials for cabinet building by clever enthusiasts. How far can you push your design? Take a look at some of the examples for inspiration.

{|
| valign="top"|
[[image:knievel_cab1.jpg|thumb|100px|Knievel's Neon MAME cabinet]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:lexanclearmspac.jpg|thumb|100px|Clear Lexan Ms. PacMan]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:armoire.jpg|thumb|100px|Armoire machine]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:systemseven.jpg|thumb|100px|System Seven Machine]]
|}

=Hodge Podge=
Hodge Podge is a nice way of describing cabinet art that has had little planning, and little in the way of effort at applying any art. If you hodge podge the art, you will find that the results rarely turn out to make a powerful statement. If you really have little time to think about the art, it may be best to simply paint the cabinet, and maybe add some colored t-molding to add a little pop.

How you design your art is a matter of taste, that's true. Regardless of your particular taste, you should make a plan before you begin applying art. All of the techniques I mention below '''can''' be part of a well done cabinet. The techniques used in a hodge-podge cabinet aren't the real problem. Lack of thought will be the true failure.

You can always redo your cabinet, so feel free to try things out, experiment, cut corners if you're trying to save money. Be honest with yourself when you are done though. Solicit the input of friends and family to see what they think, evaluate the quality of the finished product. If others dislike your cabinet but you like the look of it, then defend your decisions as a matter of taste. If you agree with them, consider planning a new design, and be prepared to take some time with the execution.

It's understandeable that you may want to immediately get to playing your games rather than working on the art. If that's truly the case it's probably best to do next to nothing with the art at all, rather than scraping together whatever you have handy to adorn your cabinet as cheaply and quickly as possible. Examples of this style involve a combination of mismatched colors, mixed themes, decoupage using cutouts from magazines or images printed from a printer and pasted or laquered onto a cabinet, contact paper or wallpaper, or movie posters adhered to the cabinet. Poor use of materials is also a hallmark of a poorly done cabinet, the appearance of extra glue, poorly made cuts with scissors, marred stickers or paper, irregular lines, hand written type will reduce the overal greatness of your otherwise worthy cabinet. This may sound laughable, but it is fairly common. If you are going to the trouble of building a cabinet from scratch, or buying hundreds of dollars in parts to restore a cabinet, the finished product should look professional. Don't let the art be the weak link.

[http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/board,13.0.html The BYOAC Artwork Pages] are a great place to ask questions about design programs, general design, production issues, vendors, and to request a critique of your artwork. A few suggestions by interested invividuals may go a long way to helping you improve on your themed artwork. Don't hesitate to ask for help, it's encouraged.

==See Also==
* [[Finishing]]
* [[Vendors|Artwork Vendors]]

[[Category:Finishing]]

Overview & Options to Consider

2007-06-06T00:53:49Z

Apollo: /* Restoration graphics */

Adding graphics to your cabinet can transform it from an oversized PC case into a classic machine that looks like it came straight out of a real arcade. It is the final touches that can make or break a great cabinet. The right choice of artwork and details can make a generic cabinet look simply amazing, while poorly done artwork options can make the most inventive cabinet design look dull. Although it is easy to overlook this area of cabinet building, it should be considered a crucial final step in creating your personal piece of arcade history.

There are generally 5 main approaches to designing the look of your cabinet that you may want to consider early in the planning phase of your cabinet. Each has drawbacks, and each requires varying degrees of skill to execute. Find detailed descriptions below.

More information to come;
=Restoration graphics=
One of the most straightforward methods of adding some pizzaz to your cabinet is to use reproduction (repro) artwork based on your favorite game. There are many distinctive cabinets that have been released over the years: Pac-Man, Galaga and Galaxian etc (all of the Williams cabinets!) for which artwork is still reproduced by reputable dealers and readily available. If you choose to use repro art there are a few things you need to consider:

#'''Cost of reproduction graphics:''' Bezels, marquees and control panel overlays are usually fairly inexpensive and easily obtainable with prices in the $10-$50 range. Side art is usually more expensive, running from $50-$300 for a complete set.
#'''Availability of repro artwork:''' If your favorite game is Ms. Pac Man you will find the art readily available for sale through an online dealer, at an auction or on eBay for a reasonable price. If however your favorite game happened to be [http://www.macmame.net/klov/defnder3.html Defender 3] chances are you are not going to easily find repro or new old stock (NOS) to use on your cab. If you are trying to restore a cabinet to its authentic former glory it may be worth waiting to find something to complete your masterpiece. If you are not restoring, just pick something else cool...at least that way your cabinet will look good while you're trying to find the rare stuff.
#'''Accuracy of available reproduction artwork'''While most reproduction houses have high quality artwork available, you may want to investigate the quality & reputation a little bit before you lay down your hard earned cash. Ask questions about the vendor & about the specific piece of repro art at places like [http://groups.google.com/group/rec.games.video.arcade.collecting?lnk=lr&hl=en RGVAC] or in the [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/board,13.0.html artwork section of BYOAC.] In my past experience of dealing with repro art I have occasionally been dissatisfied with the material thickness, detail, and color of various pieces from various vendors. In many instances you will have a tough time getting your money back, so it's best to ask your questions first. If you really know what you want, you may find that repro art does not accurately capture proper color, appliqué (foil, embossing) detail, material (smooth, rough, textured,) thickness, strength, or opacity (in the case of marquees or bezels.) Many repro dealers and repro artwork sites may not have access to pristine NOS art to sample when they create repros and their printing method may not capture the original color (like Pac Man yellow) so you may have to settle for "pretty good" in some cases unless you are looking for absolute restoration style accuracy. In that case, buy NOS if you can find it.
#'''Difficulty of application of the artwork.'''In most cases adding artwork should be fairly simple for the average person. Most of it involves the use of adhesives and patience. Many Williams machines use stenciled paint for side and front art, however, and accurate reproduction requires some skill, equipment, and practice. If you don't have the patience to spend days doing the necessary prep & execution required to paint with stencils, you may want to purchase repro stickers instead. If you have absolutely zero patience, you may want to avoid buying large pieces of full side-art stickers (like Centipede) as well. Applying very large stickers requires some skill to reduce bubbles and wrinkles when applying the art. Marquees, correctly sized bezels, and CPOs are fairly easy to apply and the average person should not have a problem.

=Resto-mod graphics=
{| align=right
| valign="top"|
[[image:defendercade.jpg|thumb|100px|Defender-Style Marquee]]
[[image:pacmamea.jpg|thumb|100px|1Uparcade.com's Pacmamea]]
|[[image:defmod.jpg|thumb|100px|Defender Control Panel modded for more controls]]
|}
Resto-mod is basically anything that is based on a classic design, but does not fully reproduce the original design. There are a few reasons to choose the resto-mod route;

#'''Cost''' It's cheaper to just put a Defender marquee and control panel on your cabinet than it is to add bezel, side and front art as well. A marquee and CPO might cost a total of $70, while the full kit might cost $200 to $300.
#'''Personal touches''' "Dee Fender," "LeeVious," "Jim's Pac Man," marquee titles all of questionable taste... but real examples. Each display a little of the personality of the owner.
#'''Making a statement''' Many people want their machine to be seen as more than a just a box for ONE game. Defendercade, Pacmamea, Hyper-Galaxian. Each marquee title implies that the cabinet is more than just a simple arcade classic.
#'''Physical differences''' Different sizes of cabinets, different shapes, different configurations of controls on the control panel are a few reasons that physical differences may require you to modify the art of a classic design. For instance, If you love the art from Galaga, but have a generic Dynamo cab, you might have to alter the art a little bit to fit the different cabinet shape. If you are building a Defender shaped cabinet, but want to use a trackball and spinner in addition to the standard defender buttons, you will have to make a few changes to the original defender CPO design.

Resto-mod can be a great shortcut to making a cool cabinet, without some of the cost and complexity involved in fully reproducing the original design. If you aren't careful though, your cabinet can also end up looking cheap and boring, with the art obviously a silly afterthought. Slapping a Galaxian marquee on your cabinet won't in itself make your box look great. A well thought out theme based on a classic design, however, can have some striking results. Great resto-mod designs capture the spirit of the original theme blending the changes perfectly with original art, while adding a dimension of uniqueness, rather than looking like pale imitators.

=Original theme graphics=
{| align=right
| valign="top"|
[[image:heavymetal.jpg|thumb|100px|Heavy Metal Cabinet by...]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:potter.jpg|thumb|100px|Hogwarts Cabinet by Nannuu]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:paranoids1.jpg|thumb|100px|Space Paranoids Cabinet by Jarrett]]

|}
The most creative and striking cabinets that you'll find are well done original themed cabinets. Executing the creation and design of your own personal themed cabinet can be one of the most difficult methods of adding artwork to your cabinet. The payoffs are huge however, you'll have a great looking cab, a certified point of interest in your game room, and [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Martin_Prince infinite hit points.] Creating your own art can be a costly, time consuming and technically difficult option, so you may wan to consider the following before you begin your theme;
#Will your theme look good in five years? You don't want to get stuck with a cabinet that's as painful to look at as a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Faster_Pussycat faster pussycat] tattoo.
# If your theme is going to be based on pop culture stuff (like sports teams, movies, or cartoons) can you find enough [[high resolution]] artwork to cover a marquee, control panel and side art?
# If you have a completely original theme, do you realistically have the time and skill to create artwork from scratch?
#Do you have the correct [[design applications]] to create your art?
#If you are creating side art, you may want to shop around the cost of printing full size side art before you begin. It may be expensive, or even impossible to get art printed large enough to fit your full sized cabinet. You may have to make some sacrifices.
#If your concept is awesome, would it be worth a few hundred $$$ to pay somebody to create it for you? You might even find a friend or an art student to give you a little help for free.

It's easy for a custom theme to become an unnattractive hodge podge if you're not careful. Planning is key. Choose your theme and do your best to stick to your theme with each piece that you create. If you get tired of the theme while doing a specific piece, don't change gears... it's probably best to abandon the entire theme if you're already sick of it. Just because you have a cool marquee design, but can't think of anything else for the sides or CPO doesn't mean you should go ahead and have the marquee printed. It might be better to choose something else. Before you start your theme, create a budget for each piece you would like to create (cost of a custom CPO, marquee, side art) add at least 15-20% on top of that cost to cover shipping, and any tools and miscellaneous parts for attaching and hacking... make sure you'll have enough dough to complete the full theme. You should price out different options with different printers. If you can't get a quote, chances are that what you're looking for is either inaccessible or prohibitevely expensie. Ask questions about the materials and printing techniques if you have any questions. You want to ensure that your art will look good, and last through lots of abuse. If you have guests... it WILL get some abuse. If you have enough cash and the perfect theme, then it's time to begin the design.

If you'd like a few suggestions on design, head over to the [[Creating Your Own Art From Scratch]] page.

=Physical design=
If you are more into tools & gadgets than you are into graphics & design programs, you may be more interested in building a cabinet that derives its visual interest from the materials and objects incorporated into it. The options are endless, its just up to you and your imagination. Metals, neon, chrome, velure, lexan, and varnished wood, cardboard, have all been used as materials for cabinet building by clever enthusiasts. How far can you push your design? Take a look at some of the examples for inspiration.

{|
| valign="top"|
[[image:knievel_cab1.jpg|thumb|100px|Knievel's Neon MAME cabinet]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:lexanclearmspac.jpg|thumb|100px|Clear Lexan Ms. PacMan]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:armoire.jpg|thumb|100px|Armoire machine]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:systemseven.jpg|thumb|100px|System Seven Machine]]
|}

=Hodge Podge=
Hodge Podge is a nice way of describing cabinet art that has had little planning, and little in the way of effort at applying any art. If you hodge podge the art, you will find that the results rarely turn out to make a powerful statement. If you really have little time to think about the art, it may be best to simply paint the cabinet, and maybe add some colored t-molding to add a little pop.

How you design your art is a matter of taste, that's true. Regardless of your particular taste, you should make a plan before you begin applying art. All of the techniques I mention below '''can''' be part of a well done cabinet. The techniques used in a hodge-podge cabinet aren't the real problem. Lack of thought will be the true failure.

You can always redo your cabinet, so feel free to try things out, experiment, cut corners if you're trying to save money. Be honest with yourself when you are done though. Solicit the input of friends and family to see what they think, evaluate the quality of the finished product. If others dislike your cabinet but you like the look of it, then defend your decisions as a matter of taste. If you agree with them, consider planning a new design, and be prepared to take some time with the execution.

It's understandeable that you may want to immediately get to playing your games rather than working on the art. If that's truly the case it's probably best to do next to nothing with the art at all, rather than scraping together whatever you have handy to adorn your cabinet as cheaply and quickly as possible. Examples of this style involve a combination of mismatched colors, mixed themes, decoupage using cutouts from magazines or images printed from a printer and pasted or laquered onto a cabinet, contact paper or wallpaper, or movie posters adhered to the cabinet. Poor use of materials is also a hallmark of a poorly done cabinet, the appearance of extra glue, poorly made cuts with scissors, marred stickers or paper, irregular lines, hand written type will reduce the overal greatness of your otherwise worthy cabinet. This may sound laughable, but it is fairly common. If you are going to the trouble of building a cabinet from scratch, or buying hundreds of dollars in parts to restore a cabinet, the finished product should look professional. Don't let the art be the weak link.

[http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/board,13.0.html The BYOAC Artwork Pages] are a great place to ask questions about design programs, general design, production issues, vendors, and to request a critique of your artwork. A few suggestions by interested invividuals may go a long way to helping you improve on your themed artwork. Don't hesitate to ask for help, it's encouraged.

==See Also==
* [[Finishing]]
* [[Vendors|Artwork Vendors]]

[[Category:Finishing]]

Overview & Options to Consider

2007-06-06T00:48:50Z

Apollo:

Adding graphics to your cabinet can transform it from an oversized PC case into a classic machine that looks like it came straight out of a real arcade. It is the final touches that can make or break a great cabinet. The right choice of artwork and details can make a generic cabinet look simply amazing, while poorly done artwork options can make the most inventive cabinet design look dull. Although it is easy to overlook this area of cabinet building, it should be considered a crucial final step in creating your personal piece of arcade history.

There are generally 5 main approaches to designing the look of your cabinet that you may want to consider early in the planning phase of your cabinet. Each has drawbacks, and each requires varying degrees of skill to execute. Find detailed descriptions below.

More information to come;
=Restoration graphics=
One of the most straightforward methods of adding some pizzaz to your cabinet is to use reproduction (repro) artwork based on your favorite game. There are many distinctive cabinets that have been released over the years: Pac-Man, Galaga and Galaxian etc (all of the Williams cabinets!) for which artwork is still reproduced by reputable dealers and readily available. If you choose to use repro art there are a few things you need to consider:

#'''Cost of reproduction graphics''' Bezels, marquees and control panel overlays are usually fairly inexpensive and easily obtainable with prices in the $10-$50 range. Side art is usually more expensive, running from $50-$300 for a complete set.
#'''Availability of repro artwork (if you are interested in something a little more rare it may be difficult to find everything)'''If your favorite game is Ms. Pac Man you can easily find the art for sale online, at an auction or on eBay for a reasonable price (not necessarily cheap, though) If your favorite game happened to be [http://www.macmame.net/klov/defnder3.html Defender 3] chances are you're not going to easily find repro or N.O.S (new old-stock) to use on your cab. If you're really restoring a cabinet, it may be worth the wait to find something to complete your rare vintage cab. If you aren't restoring, just pick something else cool... at least that way your cabinet will look good while you're trying to find the rare stuff.
#'''Accuracy of available reproduction artwork'''While most reproduction houses have high quality artwork available, you may want to investigate the quality & reputation a little bit before you lay down your hard earned cash. Ask questions about the vendor & about the specific piece of repro art at places like [http://groups.google.com/group/rec.games.video.arcade.collecting?lnk=lr&hl=en RGVAC] or in the [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/board,13.0.html artwork section of BYOAC.] In my past experience of dealing with repro art I have occasionally been dissatisfied with the material thickness, detail, and color of various pieces from various vendors. In many instances you will have a tough time getting your money back, so it's best to ask your questions first. If you really know what you want, you may find that repro art does not accurately capture proper color, appliqué (foil, embossing) detail, material (smooth, rough, textured,) thickness, strength, or opacity (in the case of marquees or bezels.) Many repro dealers and repro artwork sites may not have access to pristine NOS art to sample when they create repros and their printing method may not capture the original color (like Pac Man yellow) so you may have to settle for "pretty good" in some cases unless you are looking for absolute restoration style accuracy. In that case, buy NOS if you can find it.
#'''Difficulty of application of the artwork.'''In most cases adding artwork should be fairly simple for the average person. Most of it involves the use of adhesives and patience. Many Williams machines use stenciled paint for side and front art, however, and accurate reproduction requires some skill, equipment, and practice. If you don't have the patience to spend days doing the necessary prep & execution required to paint with stencils, you may want to purchase repro stickers instead. If you have absolutely zero patience, you may want to avoid buying large pieces of full side-art stickers (like Centipede) as well. Applying very large stickers requires some skill to reduce bubbles and wrinkles when applying the art. Marquees, correctly sized bezels, and CPOs are fairly easy to apply and the average person should not have a problem.

=Resto-mod graphics=
{| align=right
| valign="top"|
[[image:defendercade.jpg|thumb|100px|Defender-Style Marquee]]
[[image:pacmamea.jpg|thumb|100px|1Uparcade.com's Pacmamea]]
|[[image:defmod.jpg|thumb|100px|Defender Control Panel modded for more controls]]
|}
Resto-mod is basically anything that is based on a classic design, but does not fully reproduce the original design. There are a few reasons to choose the resto-mod route;

#'''Cost''' It's cheaper to just put a Defender marquee and control panel on your cabinet than it is to add bezel, side and front art as well. A marquee and CPO might cost a total of $70, while the full kit might cost $200 to $300.
#'''Personal touches''' "Dee Fender," "LeeVious," "Jim's Pac Man," marquee titles all of questionable taste... but real examples. Each display a little of the personality of the owner.
#'''Making a statement''' Many people want their machine to be seen as more than a just a box for ONE game. Defendercade, Pacmamea, Hyper-Galaxian. Each marquee title implies that the cabinet is more than just a simple arcade classic.
#'''Physical differences''' Different sizes of cabinets, different shapes, different configurations of controls on the control panel are a few reasons that physical differences may require you to modify the art of a classic design. For instance, If you love the art from Galaga, but have a generic Dynamo cab, you might have to alter the art a little bit to fit the different cabinet shape. If you are building a Defender shaped cabinet, but want to use a trackball and spinner in addition to the standard defender buttons, you will have to make a few changes to the original defender CPO design.

Resto-mod can be a great shortcut to making a cool cabinet, without some of the cost and complexity involved in fully reproducing the original design. If you aren't careful though, your cabinet can also end up looking cheap and boring, with the art obviously a silly afterthought. Slapping a Galaxian marquee on your cabinet won't in itself make your box look great. A well thought out theme based on a classic design, however, can have some striking results. Great resto-mod designs capture the spirit of the original theme blending the changes perfectly with original art, while adding a dimension of uniqueness, rather than looking like pale imitators.

=Original theme graphics=
{| align=right
| valign="top"|
[[image:heavymetal.jpg|thumb|100px|Heavy Metal Cabinet by...]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:potter.jpg|thumb|100px|Hogwarts Cabinet by Nannuu]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:paranoids1.jpg|thumb|100px|Space Paranoids Cabinet by Jarrett]]

|}
The most creative and striking cabinets that you'll find are well done original themed cabinets. Executing the creation and design of your own personal themed cabinet can be one of the most difficult methods of adding artwork to your cabinet. The payoffs are huge however, you'll have a great looking cab, a certified point of interest in your game room, and [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Martin_Prince infinite hit points.] Creating your own art can be a costly, time consuming and technically difficult option, so you may wan to consider the following before you begin your theme;
#Will your theme look good in five years? You don't want to get stuck with a cabinet that's as painful to look at as a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Faster_Pussycat faster pussycat] tattoo.
# If your theme is going to be based on pop culture stuff (like sports teams, movies, or cartoons) can you find enough [[high resolution]] artwork to cover a marquee, control panel and side art?
# If you have a completely original theme, do you realistically have the time and skill to create artwork from scratch?
#Do you have the correct [[design applications]] to create your art?
#If you are creating side art, you may want to shop around the cost of printing full size side art before you begin. It may be expensive, or even impossible to get art printed large enough to fit your full sized cabinet. You may have to make some sacrifices.
#If your concept is awesome, would it be worth a few hundred $$$ to pay somebody to create it for you? You might even find a friend or an art student to give you a little help for free.

It's easy for a custom theme to become an unnattractive hodge podge if you're not careful. Planning is key. Choose your theme and do your best to stick to your theme with each piece that you create. If you get tired of the theme while doing a specific piece, don't change gears... it's probably best to abandon the entire theme if you're already sick of it. Just because you have a cool marquee design, but can't think of anything else for the sides or CPO doesn't mean you should go ahead and have the marquee printed. It might be better to choose something else. Before you start your theme, create a budget for each piece you would like to create (cost of a custom CPO, marquee, side art) add at least 15-20% on top of that cost to cover shipping, and any tools and miscellaneous parts for attaching and hacking... make sure you'll have enough dough to complete the full theme. You should price out different options with different printers. If you can't get a quote, chances are that what you're looking for is either inaccessible or prohibitevely expensie. Ask questions about the materials and printing techniques if you have any questions. You want to ensure that your art will look good, and last through lots of abuse. If you have guests... it WILL get some abuse. If you have enough cash and the perfect theme, then it's time to begin the design.

If you'd like a few suggestions on design, head over to the [[Creating Your Own Art From Scratch]] page.

=Physical design=
If you are more into tools & gadgets than you are into graphics & design programs, you may be more interested in building a cabinet that derives its visual interest from the materials and objects incorporated into it. The options are endless, its just up to you and your imagination. Metals, neon, chrome, velure, lexan, and varnished wood, cardboard, have all been used as materials for cabinet building by clever enthusiasts. How far can you push your design? Take a look at some of the examples for inspiration.

{|
| valign="top"|
[[image:knievel_cab1.jpg|thumb|100px|Knievel's Neon MAME cabinet]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:lexanclearmspac.jpg|thumb|100px|Clear Lexan Ms. PacMan]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:armoire.jpg|thumb|100px|Armoire machine]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:systemseven.jpg|thumb|100px|System Seven Machine]]
|}

=Hodge Podge=
Hodge Podge is a nice way of describing cabinet art that has had little planning, and little in the way of effort at applying any art. If you hodge podge the art, you will find that the results rarely turn out to make a powerful statement. If you really have little time to think about the art, it may be best to simply paint the cabinet, and maybe add some colored t-molding to add a little pop.

How you design your art is a matter of taste, that's true. Regardless of your particular taste, you should make a plan before you begin applying art. All of the techniques I mention below '''can''' be part of a well done cabinet. The techniques used in a hodge-podge cabinet aren't the real problem. Lack of thought will be the true failure.

You can always redo your cabinet, so feel free to try things out, experiment, cut corners if you're trying to save money. Be honest with yourself when you are done though. Solicit the input of friends and family to see what they think, evaluate the quality of the finished product. If others dislike your cabinet but you like the look of it, then defend your decisions as a matter of taste. If you agree with them, consider planning a new design, and be prepared to take some time with the execution.

It's understandeable that you may want to immediately get to playing your games rather than working on the art. If that's truly the case it's probably best to do next to nothing with the art at all, rather than scraping together whatever you have handy to adorn your cabinet as cheaply and quickly as possible. Examples of this style involve a combination of mismatched colors, mixed themes, decoupage using cutouts from magazines or images printed from a printer and pasted or laquered onto a cabinet, contact paper or wallpaper, or movie posters adhered to the cabinet. Poor use of materials is also a hallmark of a poorly done cabinet, the appearance of extra glue, poorly made cuts with scissors, marred stickers or paper, irregular lines, hand written type will reduce the overal greatness of your otherwise worthy cabinet. This may sound laughable, but it is fairly common. If you are going to the trouble of building a cabinet from scratch, or buying hundreds of dollars in parts to restore a cabinet, the finished product should look professional. Don't let the art be the weak link.

[http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/board,13.0.html The BYOAC Artwork Pages] are a great place to ask questions about design programs, general design, production issues, vendors, and to request a critique of your artwork. A few suggestions by interested invividuals may go a long way to helping you improve on your themed artwork. Don't hesitate to ask for help, it's encouraged.

==See Also==
* [[Finishing]]
* [[Vendors|Artwork Vendors]]

[[Category:Finishing]]

Overview & Options to Consider

2007-06-06T00:47:46Z

Apollo: /* Restoration graphics */

Adding graphics to your cabinet can transform it from an oversized PC case into a classic machine that looks like it came straight out of a real arcade. It is the final touches that can make or break a great cabinet. The right choice of artwork and details can make a generic cabinet look simply amazing, while poorly done artwork options can make the most inventive cabinet design look dull. Although it is easy to overlook this area of cabinet building, it should be considered a crucial final step in creating your personal piece of arcade history.

There are generally 5 main approaches to designing the look of your cabinet that you may want to consider early in the planning phase of your cabinet. Each has drawbacks, and each requires varying degrees of skill to execute. Find detailed descriptions below.

More information to come;
=Restoration graphics=
One of the most straightforward methods of adding some pizzaz to your cabinet is to use reproduction (repro) artwork based on your favorite game. There are many distinctive cabinets that have been released over the years: Pac-Man, Galaga and Galaxian etc (all of the Williams cabinets!) for which artwork is still reproduced by reputable dealers and readily available. If you choose to use repro art there are a few things you need to consider:

#'''cost of reproduction graphics''' Bezels, marquees and control panel overlays are usually fairly inexpensive and easily obtainable with prices in the $10-$50 range. Side art is usually more expensive, running from $50-$300 for a complete set.
#'''availability of repro artwork (if you are interested in something a little more rare it may be difficult to find everything)'''If your favorite game is Ms. Pac Man you can easily find the art for sale online, at an auction or on eBay for a reasonable price (not necessarily cheap, though) If your favorite game happened to be [http://www.macmame.net/klov/defnder3.html Defender 3] chances are you're not going to easily find repro or N.O.S (new old-stock) to use on your cab. If you're really restoring a cabinet, it may be worth the wait to find something to complete your rare vintage cab. If you aren't restoring, just pick something else cool... at least that way your cabinet will look good while you're trying to find the rare stuff.
#'''accuracy of available reproduction artwork'''While most reproduction houses have high quality artwork available, you may want to investigate the quality & reputation a little bit before you lay down your hard earned cash. Ask questions about the vendor & about the specific piece of repro art at places like [http://groups.google.com/group/rec.games.video.arcade.collecting?lnk=lr&hl=en RGVAC] or in the [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/board,13.0.html artwork section of BYOAC.] In my past experience of dealing with repro art I have occasionally been dissatisfied with the material thickness, detail, and color of various pieces from various vendors. In many instances you will have a tough time getting your money back, so it's best to ask your questions first. If you really know what you want, you may find that repro art does not accurately capture proper color, appliqué (foil, embossing) detail, material (smooth, rough, textured,) thickness, strength, or opacity (in the case of marquees or bezels.) Many repro dealers and repro artwork sites may not have access to pristine NOS art to sample when they create repros and their printing method may not capture the original color (like Pac Man yellow) so you may have to settle for "pretty good" in some cases unless you are looking for absolute restoration style accuracy. In that case, buy NOS if you can find it.
#'''difficulty of application of the artwork.'''In most cases adding artwork should be fairly simple for the average person. Most of it involves the use of adhesives and patience. Many Williams machines use stenciled paint for side and front art, however, and accurate reproduction requires some skill, equipment, and practice. If you don't have the patience to spend days doing the necessary prep & execution required to paint with stencils, you may want to purchase repro stickers instead. If you have absolutely zero patience, you may want to avoid buying large pieces of full side-art stickers (like Centipede) as well. Applying very large stickers requires some skill to reduce bubbles and wrinkles when applying the art. Marquees, correctly sized bezels, and CPOs are fairly easy to apply and the average person should not have a problem.

=Resto-mod graphics=
{| align=right
| valign="top"|
[[image:defendercade.jpg|thumb|100px|Defender-Style Marquee]]
[[image:pacmamea.jpg|thumb|100px|1Uparcade.com's Pacmamea]]
|[[image:defmod.jpg|thumb|100px|Defender Control Panel modded for more controls]]
|}
Resto-mod is basically anything that is based on a classic design, but does not fully reproduce the original design. There are a few reasons to choose the resto-mod route;

#'''Cost''' It's cheaper to just put a Defender marquee and control panel on your cabinet than it is to add bezel, side and front art as well. A marquee and CPO might cost a total of $70, while the full kit might cost $200 to $300.
#'''Personal touches''' "Dee Fender," "LeeVious," "Jim's Pac Man," marquee titles all of questionable taste... but real examples. Each display a little of the personality of the owner.
#'''Making a statement''' Many people want their machine to be seen as more than a just a box for ONE game. Defendercade, Pacmamea, Hyper-Galaxian. Each marquee title implies that the cabinet is more than just a simple arcade classic.
#'''Physical differences''' Different sizes of cabinets, different shapes, different configurations of controls on the control panel are a few reasons that physical differences may require you to modify the art of a classic design. For instance, If you love the art from Galaga, but have a generic Dynamo cab, you might have to alter the art a little bit to fit the different cabinet shape. If you are building a Defender shaped cabinet, but want to use a trackball and spinner in addition to the standard defender buttons, you will have to make a few changes to the original defender CPO design.

Resto-mod can be a great shortcut to making a cool cabinet, without some of the cost and complexity involved in fully reproducing the original design. If you aren't careful though, your cabinet can also end up looking cheap and boring, with the art obviously a silly afterthought. Slapping a Galaxian marquee on your cabinet won't in itself make your box look great. A well thought out theme based on a classic design, however, can have some striking results. Great resto-mod designs capture the spirit of the original theme blending the changes perfectly with original art, while adding a dimension of uniqueness, rather than looking like pale imitators.

=Original theme graphics=
{| align=right
| valign="top"|
[[image:heavymetal.jpg|thumb|100px|Heavy Metal Cabinet by...]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:potter.jpg|thumb|100px|Hogwarts Cabinet by Nannuu]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:paranoids1.jpg|thumb|100px|Space Paranoids Cabinet by Jarrett]]

|}
The most creative and striking cabinets that you'll find are well done original themed cabinets. Executing the creation and design of your own personal themed cabinet can be one of the most difficult methods of adding artwork to your cabinet. The payoffs are huge however, you'll have a great looking cab, a certified point of interest in your game room, and [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Martin_Prince infinite hit points.] Creating your own art can be a costly, time consuming and technically difficult option, so you may wan to consider the following before you begin your theme;
#Will your theme look good in five years? You don't want to get stuck with a cabinet that's as painful to look at as a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Faster_Pussycat faster pussycat] tattoo.
# If your theme is going to be based on pop culture stuff (like sports teams, movies, or cartoons) can you find enough [[high resolution]] artwork to cover a marquee, control panel and side art?
# If you have a completely original theme, do you realistically have the time and skill to create artwork from scratch?
#Do you have the correct [[design applications]] to create your art?
#If you are creating side art, you may want to shop around the cost of printing full size side art before you begin. It may be expensive, or even impossible to get art printed large enough to fit your full sized cabinet. You may have to make some sacrifices.
#If your concept is awesome, would it be worth a few hundred $$$ to pay somebody to create it for you? You might even find a friend or an art student to give you a little help for free.

It's easy for a custom theme to become an unnattractive hodge podge if you're not careful. Planning is key. Choose your theme and do your best to stick to your theme with each piece that you create. If you get tired of the theme while doing a specific piece, don't change gears... it's probably best to abandon the entire theme if you're already sick of it. Just because you have a cool marquee design, but can't think of anything else for the sides or CPO doesn't mean you should go ahead and have the marquee printed. It might be better to choose something else. Before you start your theme, create a budget for each piece you would like to create (cost of a custom CPO, marquee, side art) add at least 15-20% on top of that cost to cover shipping, and any tools and miscellaneous parts for attaching and hacking... make sure you'll have enough dough to complete the full theme. You should price out different options with different printers. If you can't get a quote, chances are that what you're looking for is either inaccessible or prohibitevely expensie. Ask questions about the materials and printing techniques if you have any questions. You want to ensure that your art will look good, and last through lots of abuse. If you have guests... it WILL get some abuse. If you have enough cash and the perfect theme, then it's time to begin the design.

If you'd like a few suggestions on design, head over to the [[Creating Your Own Art From Scratch]] page.

=Physical design=
If you are more into tools & gadgets than you are into graphics & design programs, you may be more interested in building a cabinet that derives its visual interest from the materials and objects incorporated into it. The options are endless, its just up to you and your imagination. Metals, neon, chrome, velure, lexan, and varnished wood, cardboard, have all been used as materials for cabinet building by clever enthusiasts. How far can you push your design? Take a look at some of the examples for inspiration.

{|
| valign="top"|
[[image:knievel_cab1.jpg|thumb|100px|Knievel's Neon MAME cabinet]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:lexanclearmspac.jpg|thumb|100px|Clear Lexan Ms. PacMan]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:armoire.jpg|thumb|100px|Armoire machine]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:systemseven.jpg|thumb|100px|System Seven Machine]]
|}

=Hodge Podge=
Hodge Podge is a nice way of describing cabinet art that has had little planning, and little in the way of effort at applying any art. If you hodge podge the art, you will find that the results rarely turn out to make a powerful statement. If you really have little time to think about the art, it may be best to simply paint the cabinet, and maybe add some colored t-molding to add a little pop.

How you design your art is a matter of taste, that's true. Regardless of your particular taste, you should make a plan before you begin applying art. All of the techniques I mention below '''can''' be part of a well done cabinet. The techniques used in a hodge-podge cabinet aren't the real problem. Lack of thought will be the true failure.

You can always redo your cabinet, so feel free to try things out, experiment, cut corners if you're trying to save money. Be honest with yourself when you are done though. Solicit the input of friends and family to see what they think, evaluate the quality of the finished product. If others dislike your cabinet but you like the look of it, then defend your decisions as a matter of taste. If you agree with them, consider planning a new design, and be prepared to take some time with the execution.

It's understandeable that you may want to immediately get to playing your games rather than working on the art. If that's truly the case it's probably best to do next to nothing with the art at all, rather than scraping together whatever you have handy to adorn your cabinet as cheaply and quickly as possible. Examples of this style involve a combination of mismatched colors, mixed themes, decoupage using cutouts from magazines or images printed from a printer and pasted or laquered onto a cabinet, contact paper or wallpaper, or movie posters adhered to the cabinet. Poor use of materials is also a hallmark of a poorly done cabinet, the appearance of extra glue, poorly made cuts with scissors, marred stickers or paper, irregular lines, hand written type will reduce the overal greatness of your otherwise worthy cabinet. This may sound laughable, but it is fairly common. If you are going to the trouble of building a cabinet from scratch, or buying hundreds of dollars in parts to restore a cabinet, the finished product should look professional. Don't let the art be the weak link.

[http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/board,13.0.html The BYOAC Artwork Pages] are a great place to ask questions about design programs, general design, production issues, vendors, and to request a critique of your artwork. A few suggestions by interested invividuals may go a long way to helping you improve on your themed artwork. Don't hesitate to ask for help, it's encouraged.

==See Also==
* [[Finishing]]
* [[Vendors|Artwork Vendors]]

[[Category:Finishing]]

Overview & Options to Consider

2007-06-06T00:11:53Z

Apollo: /* Restoration graphics */

Adding graphics to your cabinet can transform it from an oversized PC case into a classic machine that looks like it came straight out of a real arcade. It is the final touches that can make or break a great cabinet. The right choice of artwork and details can make a generic cabinet look simply amazing, while poorly done artwork options can make the most inventive cabinet design look dull. Although it is easy to overlook this area of cabinet building, it should be considered a crucial final step in creating your personal piece of arcade history.

There are generally 5 main approaches to designing the look of your cabinet that you may want to consider early in the planning phase of your cabinet. Each has drawbacks, and each requires varying degrees of skill to execute. Find detailed descriptions below.

More information to come;
=Restoration graphics=
One of the most straightforward methods of adding some pizzaz to your cabinet is to use reproduction artwork based on your favorite game. There are many distinctive cabinets that have been released over the years, Pac-Man, Galaga, Defender (all of the Williams cabinets, really) for which artwork is still reproduced by reputable dealers and readily available. If you choose to use repro art there are a few things you need to consider:

#'''cost of reproduction graphics''' Usually bezels, marquees, and control panel artwork are usually fairly inexpensive and easily available, usually in the range of $10-$50 each. Side art is usually more expensive, running from $50-$300 for a complete set.
#'''availability of repro artwork (if you are interested in something a little more rare it may be difficult to find everything)'''If your favorite game is Ms. Pac Man you can easily find the art for sale online, at an auction or on eBay for a reasonable price (not necessarily cheap, though) If your favorite game happened to be [http://www.macmame.net/klov/defnder3.html Defender 3] chances are you're not going to easily find repro or N.O.S (new old-stock) to use on your cab. If you're really restoring a cabinet, it may be worth the wait to find something to complete your rare vintage cab. If you aren't restoring, just pick something else cool... at least that way your cabinet will look good while you're trying to find the rare stuff.
#'''accuracy of available reproduction artwork'''While most reproduction houses have high quality artwork available, you may want to investigate the quality & reputation a little bit before you lay down your hard earned cash. Ask questions about the vendor & about the specific piece of repro art at places like [http://groups.google.com/group/rec.games.video.arcade.collecting?lnk=lr&hl=en RGVAC] or in the [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/board,13.0.html artwork section of BYOAC.] In my past experience of dealing with repro art I have occasionally been dissatisfied with the material thickness, detail, and color of various pieces from various vendors. In many instances you will have a tough time getting your money back, so it's best to ask your questions first. If you really know what you want, you may find that repro art does not accurately capture proper color, appliqué (foil, embossing) detail, material (smooth, rough, textured,) thickness, strength, or opacity (in the case of marquees or bezels.) Many repro dealers and repro artwork sites may not have access to pristine NOS art to sample when they create repros and their printing method may not capture the original color (like Pac Man yellow) so you may have to settle for "pretty good" in some cases unless you are looking for absolute restoration style accuracy. In that case, buy NOS if you can find it.
#'''difficulty of application of the artwork.'''In most cases adding artwork should be fairly simple for the average person. Most of it involves the use of adhesives and patience. Many Williams machines use stenciled paint for side and front art, however, and accurate reproduction requires some skill, equipment, and practice. If you don't have the patience to spend days doing the necessary prep & execution required to paint with stencils, you may want to purchase repro stickers instead. If you have absolutely zero patience, you may want to avoid buying large pieces of full side-art stickers (like Centipede) as well. Applying very large stickers requires some skill to reduce bubbles and wrinkles when applying the art. Marquees, correctly sized bezels, and CPOs are fairly easy to apply and the average person should not have a problem.

=Resto-mod graphics=
{| align=right
| valign="top"|
[[image:defendercade.jpg|thumb|100px|Defender-Style Marquee]]
[[image:pacmamea.jpg|thumb|100px|1Uparcade.com's Pacmamea]]
|[[image:defmod.jpg|thumb|100px|Defender Control Panel modded for more controls]]
|}
Resto-mod is basically anything that is based on a classic design, but does not fully reproduce the original design. There are a few reasons to choose the resto-mod route;

#'''Cost''' It's cheaper to just put a Defender marquee and control panel on your cabinet than it is to add bezel, side and front art as well. A marquee and CPO might cost a total of $70, while the full kit might cost $200 to $300.
#'''Personal touches''' "Dee Fender," "LeeVious," "Jim's Pac Man," marquee titles all of questionable taste... but real examples. Each display a little of the personality of the owner.
#'''Making a statement''' Many people want their machine to be seen as more than a just a box for ONE game. Defendercade, Pacmamea, Hyper-Galaxian. Each marquee title implies that the cabinet is more than just a simple arcade classic.
#'''Physical differences''' Different sizes of cabinets, different shapes, different configurations of controls on the control panel are a few reasons that physical differences may require you to modify the art of a classic design. For instance, If you love the art from Galaga, but have a generic Dynamo cab, you might have to alter the art a little bit to fit the different cabinet shape. If you are building a Defender shaped cabinet, but want to use a trackball and spinner in addition to the standard defender buttons, you will have to make a few changes to the original defender CPO design.

Resto-mod can be a great shortcut to making a cool cabinet, without some of the cost and complexity involved in fully reproducing the original design. If you aren't careful though, your cabinet can also end up looking cheap and boring, with the art obviously a silly afterthought. Slapping a Galaxian marquee on your cabinet won't in itself make your box look great. A well thought out theme based on a classic design, however, can have some striking results. Great resto-mod designs capture the spirit of the original theme blending the changes perfectly with original art, while adding a dimension of uniqueness, rather than looking like pale imitators.

=Original theme graphics=
{| align=right
| valign="top"|
[[image:heavymetal.jpg|thumb|100px|Heavy Metal Cabinet by...]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:potter.jpg|thumb|100px|Hogwarts Cabinet by Nannuu]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:paranoids1.jpg|thumb|100px|Space Paranoids Cabinet by Jarrett]]

|}
The most creative and striking cabinets that you'll find are well done original themed cabinets. Executing the creation and design of your own personal themed cabinet can be one of the most difficult methods of adding artwork to your cabinet. The payoffs are huge however, you'll have a great looking cab, a certified point of interest in your game room, and [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Martin_Prince infinite hit points.] Creating your own art can be a costly, time consuming and technically difficult option, so you may wan to consider the following before you begin your theme;
#Will your theme look good in five years? You don't want to get stuck with a cabinet that's as painful to look at as a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Faster_Pussycat faster pussycat] tattoo.
# If your theme is going to be based on pop culture stuff (like sports teams, movies, or cartoons) can you find enough [[high resolution]] artwork to cover a marquee, control panel and side art?
# If you have a completely original theme, do you realistically have the time and skill to create artwork from scratch?
#Do you have the correct [[design applications]] to create your art?
#If you are creating side art, you may want to shop around the cost of printing full size side art before you begin. It may be expensive, or even impossible to get art printed large enough to fit your full sized cabinet. You may have to make some sacrifices.
#If your concept is awesome, would it be worth a few hundred $$$ to pay somebody to create it for you? You might even find a friend or an art student to give you a little help for free.

It's easy for a custom theme to become an unnattractive hodge podge if you're not careful. Planning is key. Choose your theme and do your best to stick to your theme with each piece that you create. If you get tired of the theme while doing a specific piece, don't change gears... it's probably best to abandon the entire theme if you're already sick of it. Just because you have a cool marquee design, but can't think of anything else for the sides or CPO doesn't mean you should go ahead and have the marquee printed. It might be better to choose something else. Before you start your theme, create a budget for each piece you would like to create (cost of a custom CPO, marquee, side art) add at least 15-20% on top of that cost to cover shipping, and any tools and miscellaneous parts for attaching and hacking... make sure you'll have enough dough to complete the full theme. You should price out different options with different printers. If you can't get a quote, chances are that what you're looking for is either inaccessible or prohibitevely expensie. Ask questions about the materials and printing techniques if you have any questions. You want to ensure that your art will look good, and last through lots of abuse. If you have guests... it WILL get some abuse. If you have enough cash and the perfect theme, then it's time to begin the design.

If you'd like a few suggestions on design, head over to the [[Creating Your Own Art From Scratch]] page.

=Physical design=
If you are more into tools & gadgets than you are into graphics & design programs, you may be more interested in building a cabinet that derives its visual interest from the materials and objects incorporated into it. The options are endless, its just up to you and your imagination. Metals, neon, chrome, velure, lexan, and varnished wood, cardboard, have all been used as materials for cabinet building by clever enthusiasts. How far can you push your design? Take a look at some of the examples for inspiration.

{|
| valign="top"|
[[image:knievel_cab1.jpg|thumb|100px|Knievel's Neon MAME cabinet]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:lexanclearmspac.jpg|thumb|100px|Clear Lexan Ms. PacMan]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:armoire.jpg|thumb|100px|Armoire machine]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:systemseven.jpg|thumb|100px|System Seven Machine]]
|}

=Hodge Podge=
Hodge Podge is a nice way of describing cabinet art that has had little planning, and little in the way of effort at applying any art. If you hodge podge the art, you will find that the results rarely turn out to make a powerful statement. If you really have little time to think about the art, it may be best to simply paint the cabinet, and maybe add some colored t-molding to add a little pop.

How you design your art is a matter of taste, that's true. Regardless of your particular taste, you should make a plan before you begin applying art. All of the techniques I mention below '''can''' be part of a well done cabinet. The techniques used in a hodge-podge cabinet aren't the real problem. Lack of thought will be the true failure.

You can always redo your cabinet, so feel free to try things out, experiment, cut corners if you're trying to save money. Be honest with yourself when you are done though. Solicit the input of friends and family to see what they think, evaluate the quality of the finished product. If others dislike your cabinet but you like the look of it, then defend your decisions as a matter of taste. If you agree with them, consider planning a new design, and be prepared to take some time with the execution.

It's understandeable that you may want to immediately get to playing your games rather than working on the art. If that's truly the case it's probably best to do next to nothing with the art at all, rather than scraping together whatever you have handy to adorn your cabinet as cheaply and quickly as possible. Examples of this style involve a combination of mismatched colors, mixed themes, decoupage using cutouts from magazines or images printed from a printer and pasted or laquered onto a cabinet, contact paper or wallpaper, or movie posters adhered to the cabinet. Poor use of materials is also a hallmark of a poorly done cabinet, the appearance of extra glue, poorly made cuts with scissors, marred stickers or paper, irregular lines, hand written type will reduce the overal greatness of your otherwise worthy cabinet. This may sound laughable, but it is fairly common. If you are going to the trouble of building a cabinet from scratch, or buying hundreds of dollars in parts to restore a cabinet, the finished product should look professional. Don't let the art be the weak link.

[http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/board,13.0.html The BYOAC Artwork Pages] are a great place to ask questions about design programs, general design, production issues, vendors, and to request a critique of your artwork. A few suggestions by interested invividuals may go a long way to helping you improve on your themed artwork. Don't hesitate to ask for help, it's encouraged.

==See Also==
* [[Finishing]]
* [[Vendors|Artwork Vendors]]

[[Category:Finishing]]

Overview & Options to Consider

2007-06-06T00:08:06Z

Apollo:

Adding graphics to your cabinet can transform it from an oversized PC case into a classic machine that looks like it came straight out of a real arcade. It is the final touches that can make or break a great cabinet. The right choice of artwork and details can make a generic cabinet look simply amazing, while poorly done artwork options can make the most inventive cabinet design look dull. Although it is easy to overlook this area of cabinet building, it should be considered a crucial final step in creating your personal piece of arcade history.

There are generally 5 main approaches to designing the look of your cabinet that you may want to consider early in the planning phase of your cabinet. Each has drawbacks, and each requires varying degrees of skill to execute. Find detailed descriptions below.

More information to come;
=Restoration graphics=
One of the most straitforward methods of adding some pizzaz to your cabinet is to use reproduction artwork based on your favorite game. There are many distinctive cabinets that have been released over the years, Pac-Man, Galaga, Defender (all of the Williams cabinets, really) for which artwork is still reproduced by reputable dealers and readily available. If you choose to use repro art there are a few things you need to consider;

#'''cost of reproduction graphics''' Usually bezels, marquees, and control panel artwork are usually fairly inexpensive and easily available, usually in the range of $10-$50 each. Side art is usually more expensive, running from $50-$300 for a complete set.
#'''availability of repro artwork (if you are interested in something a little more rare it may be difficult to find everything)'''If your favorite game is Ms. Pac Man you can easily find the art for sale online, at an auction or on eBay for a reasonable price (not necessarily cheap, though) If your favorite game happened to be [http://www.macmame.net/klov/defnder3.html Defender 3] chances are you're not going to easily find repro or N.O.S (new old-stock) to use on your cab. If you're really restoring a cabinet, it may be worth the wait to find something to complete your rare vintage cab. If you aren't restoring, just pick something else cool... at least that way your cabinet will look good while you're trying to find the rare stuff.
#'''accuracy of available reproduction artwork'''While most reproduction houses have high quality artwork available, you may want to investigate the quality & reputation a little bit before you lay down your hard earned cash. Ask questions about the vendor & about the specific piece of repro art at places like [http://groups.google.com/group/rec.games.video.arcade.collecting?lnk=lr&hl=en RGVAC] or in the [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/board,13.0.html artwork section of BYOAC.] In my past experience of dealing with repro art I have occasionally been dissatisfied with the material thickness, detail, and color of various pieces from various vendors. In many instances you will have a tough time getting your money back, so it's best to ask your questions first. If you really know what you want, you may find that repro art does not accurately capture proper color, appliqué (foil, embossing) detail, material (smooth, rough, textured,) thickness, strength, or opacity (in the case of marquees or bezels.) Many repro dealers and repro artwork sites may not have access to pristine NOS art to sample when they create repros and their printing method may not capture the original color (like Pac Man yellow) so you may have to settle for "pretty good" in some cases unless you are looking for absolute restoration style accuracy. In that case, buy NOS if you can find it.
#'''difficulty of application of the artwork.'''In most cases adding artwork should be fairly simple for the average person. Most of it involves the use of adhesives and patience. Many Williams machines use stenciled paint for side and front art, however, and accurate reproduction requires some skill, equipment, and practice. If you don't have the patience to spend days doing the necessary prep & execution required to paint with stencils, you may want to purchase repro stickers instead. If you have absolutely zero patience, you may want to avoid buying large pieces of full side-art stickers (like Centipede) as well. Applying very large stickers requires some skill to reduce bubbles and wrinkles when applying the art. Marquees, correctly sized bezels, and CPOs are fairly easy to apply and the average person should not have a problem.

=Resto-mod graphics=
{| align=right
| valign="top"|
[[image:defendercade.jpg|thumb|100px|Defender-Style Marquee]]
[[image:pacmamea.jpg|thumb|100px|1Uparcade.com's Pacmamea]]
|[[image:defmod.jpg|thumb|100px|Defender Control Panel modded for more controls]]
|}
Resto-mod is basically anything that is based on a classic design, but does not fully reproduce the original design. There are a few reasons to choose the resto-mod route;

#'''Cost''' It's cheaper to just put a Defender marquee and control panel on your cabinet than it is to add bezel, side and front art as well. A marquee and CPO might cost a total of $70, while the full kit might cost $200 to $300.
#'''Personal touches''' "Dee Fender," "LeeVious," "Jim's Pac Man," marquee titles all of questionable taste... but real examples. Each display a little of the personality of the owner.
#'''Making a statement''' Many people want their machine to be seen as more than a just a box for ONE game. Defendercade, Pacmamea, Hyper-Galaxian. Each marquee title implies that the cabinet is more than just a simple arcade classic.
#'''Physical differences''' Different sizes of cabinets, different shapes, different configurations of controls on the control panel are a few reasons that physical differences may require you to modify the art of a classic design. For instance, If you love the art from Galaga, but have a generic Dynamo cab, you might have to alter the art a little bit to fit the different cabinet shape. If you are building a Defender shaped cabinet, but want to use a trackball and spinner in addition to the standard defender buttons, you will have to make a few changes to the original defender CPO design.

Resto-mod can be a great shortcut to making a cool cabinet, without some of the cost and complexity involved in fully reproducing the original design. If you aren't careful though, your cabinet can also end up looking cheap and boring, with the art obviously a silly afterthought. Slapping a Galaxian marquee on your cabinet won't in itself make your box look great. A well thought out theme based on a classic design, however, can have some striking results. Great resto-mod designs capture the spirit of the original theme blending the changes perfectly with original art, while adding a dimension of uniqueness, rather than looking like pale imitators.

=Original theme graphics=
{| align=right
| valign="top"|
[[image:heavymetal.jpg|thumb|100px|Heavy Metal Cabinet by...]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:potter.jpg|thumb|100px|Hogwarts Cabinet by Nannuu]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:paranoids1.jpg|thumb|100px|Space Paranoids Cabinet by Jarrett]]

|}
The most creative and striking cabinets that you'll find are well done original themed cabinets. Executing the creation and design of your own personal themed cabinet can be one of the most difficult methods of adding artwork to your cabinet. The payoffs are huge however, you'll have a great looking cab, a certified point of interest in your game room, and [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Martin_Prince infinite hit points.] Creating your own art can be a costly, time consuming and technically difficult option, so you may wan to consider the following before you begin your theme;
#Will your theme look good in five years? You don't want to get stuck with a cabinet that's as painful to look at as a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Faster_Pussycat faster pussycat] tattoo.
# If your theme is going to be based on pop culture stuff (like sports teams, movies, or cartoons) can you find enough [[high resolution]] artwork to cover a marquee, control panel and side art?
# If you have a completely original theme, do you realistically have the time and skill to create artwork from scratch?
#Do you have the correct [[design applications]] to create your art?
#If you are creating side art, you may want to shop around the cost of printing full size side art before you begin. It may be expensive, or even impossible to get art printed large enough to fit your full sized cabinet. You may have to make some sacrifices.
#If your concept is awesome, would it be worth a few hundred $$$ to pay somebody to create it for you? You might even find a friend or an art student to give you a little help for free.

It's easy for a custom theme to become an unnattractive hodge podge if you're not careful. Planning is key. Choose your theme and do your best to stick to your theme with each piece that you create. If you get tired of the theme while doing a specific piece, don't change gears... it's probably best to abandon the entire theme if you're already sick of it. Just because you have a cool marquee design, but can't think of anything else for the sides or CPO doesn't mean you should go ahead and have the marquee printed. It might be better to choose something else. Before you start your theme, create a budget for each piece you would like to create (cost of a custom CPO, marquee, side art) add at least 15-20% on top of that cost to cover shipping, and any tools and miscellaneous parts for attaching and hacking... make sure you'll have enough dough to complete the full theme. You should price out different options with different printers. If you can't get a quote, chances are that what you're looking for is either inaccessible or prohibitevely expensie. Ask questions about the materials and printing techniques if you have any questions. You want to ensure that your art will look good, and last through lots of abuse. If you have guests... it WILL get some abuse. If you have enough cash and the perfect theme, then it's time to begin the design.

If you'd like a few suggestions on design, head over to the [[Creating Your Own Art From Scratch]] page.

=Physical design=
If you are more into tools & gadgets than you are into graphics & design programs, you may be more interested in building a cabinet that derives its visual interest from the materials and objects incorporated into it. The options are endless, its just up to you and your imagination. Metals, neon, chrome, velure, lexan, and varnished wood, cardboard, have all been used as materials for cabinet building by clever enthusiasts. How far can you push your design? Take a look at some of the examples for inspiration.

{|
| valign="top"|
[[image:knievel_cab1.jpg|thumb|100px|Knievel's Neon MAME cabinet]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:lexanclearmspac.jpg|thumb|100px|Clear Lexan Ms. PacMan]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:armoire.jpg|thumb|100px|Armoire machine]]
| valign="top"|
[[image:systemseven.jpg|thumb|100px|System Seven Machine]]
|}

=Hodge Podge=
Hodge Podge is a nice way of describing cabinet art that has had little planning, and little in the way of effort at applying any art. If you hodge podge the art, you will find that the results rarely turn out to make a powerful statement. If you really have little time to think about the art, it may be best to simply paint the cabinet, and maybe add some colored t-molding to add a little pop.

How you design your art is a matter of taste, that's true. Regardless of your particular taste, you should make a plan before you begin applying art. All of the techniques I mention below '''can''' be part of a well done cabinet. The techniques used in a hodge-podge cabinet aren't the real problem. Lack of thought will be the true failure.

You can always redo your cabinet, so feel free to try things out, experiment, cut corners if you're trying to save money. Be honest with yourself when you are done though. Solicit the input of friends and family to see what they think, evaluate the quality of the finished product. If others dislike your cabinet but you like the look of it, then defend your decisions as a matter of taste. If you agree with them, consider planning a new design, and be prepared to take some time with the execution.

It's understandeable that you may want to immediately get to playing your games rather than working on the art. If that's truly the case it's probably best to do next to nothing with the art at all, rather than scraping together whatever you have handy to adorn your cabinet as cheaply and quickly as possible. Examples of this style involve a combination of mismatched colors, mixed themes, decoupage using cutouts from magazines or images printed from a printer and pasted or laquered onto a cabinet, contact paper or wallpaper, or movie posters adhered to the cabinet. Poor use of materials is also a hallmark of a poorly done cabinet, the appearance of extra glue, poorly made cuts with scissors, marred stickers or paper, irregular lines, hand written type will reduce the overal greatness of your otherwise worthy cabinet. This may sound laughable, but it is fairly common. If you are going to the trouble of building a cabinet from scratch, or buying hundreds of dollars in parts to restore a cabinet, the finished product should look professional. Don't let the art be the weak link.

[http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/board,13.0.html The BYOAC Artwork Pages] are a great place to ask questions about design programs, general design, production issues, vendors, and to request a critique of your artwork. A few suggestions by interested invividuals may go a long way to helping you improve on your themed artwork. Don't hesitate to ask for help, it's encouraged.

==See Also==
* [[Finishing]]
* [[Vendors|Artwork Vendors]]

[[Category:Finishing]]

PC Monitors

2007-06-06T00:02:31Z

Apollo:

A PC monitor is the simplest and most direct route to setting up a display for your arcade machine. PC monitors provide ok quality, are relatively inexpensive and are very simple to set up. As opposed to a television or authentic arcade monitor all that is required to display games on a PC monitor is to attach the monitor to your PCs VGA connector.

One negative to consider if you are thinking of using a PC monitor in your arcade machine is that games may tend to look slightly "pixelated" (blocky looking) due to the high resolutions that modern PC monitors run at. Enabling scan-lines (black lines across the screen) can make the quality better but it still does not compare to the quality that can be achieved with a television or better yet, an arcade monitor.

It is important to note that original arcade machines were run at quite a few different resolutions and some of these resolutions will look better than others on a PC monitor. A simple PC monitor connection will never be able to give you a truly "authentic" arcade look due to these resolution issues but software tweaks and resolution adjustments can create an acceptable picture.

Fans of Vector arcade games should consider the following fact when considering PC monitors: The higher resolutions available on PC monitors create what many consider a better picture when emulating vector graphics (compared to TVs or standard arcade monitors). This is because the higher resolution (generally SXGA and higher, though XGA will do, even on a 27" CRT) makes for much smoother graphics (lines) and greater anti-aliasing. (The latter is in regard to an object or line in motion, and how continuous it appears. On raster-type monitors, due to how they draw, there is usually a perceptible watery effect.) With the high prices of Vector monitors and the Zektor Vector Generator [http://www.zektor.com/zvg/ ZVG Homepage], a PC monitor could create an inexpensive alternative to a vector machine for those willing to sacrifice a bit of authenticity for lower cost.
==See Also==
* [[Video]]

[[Category:Video]]

PC Monitors

2007-06-05T23:55:13Z

Apollo:

A PC monitor is the simplest and most direct route to setting up a display for your arcade machine. PC monitors provide ok quality, are relatively inexpensive and are very simple to set up. As opposed to a television or authentic arcade monitor all that is required to display games on a PC monitor is to attach the monitor to your PCs VGA connector.

One negative to consider if you are thinking of using a PC monitor in your arcade machine is that games may tend to look slightly "pixelated" (blocky looking) due to the high resolutions that modern PC monitors run at. Enabling scan-lines (black lines across the screen) can make the quality better but it still does not compare to the quality that can be achieved with a television or better yet, an arcade monitor.

It is important to note that original arcade machines were run at quite a few different resolutions, and some of these resolutions will look better than others on a PC monitor. A simple PC monitor connection will never be able to give you a truly "authentic" arcade look due to these resolution considerations, but software tweaks and resolution adjstments can create an acceptable picture.

Fans of Vector arcade games should consider the following fact when considering PC monitors: The higher resolutions available on PC monitors create what many consider a "better" picture when emulationg vector graphics (compared to TVs or standard arcade monitors). This is because the higher resolution (generally SXGA and higher, though XGA will do, even on a 27" CRT) makes for much smoother graphics (lines) and greater anti-aliasing. (The latter is in regard to an object or line in motion, and how continuous it appears. On raster-type monitors, due to how they draw, there is usually a perceptible watery effect.) With the high prices of Vector monitors and the Zektor Vector Generator [http://www.zektor.com/zvg/ ZVG Homepage], a PC monitor could create an inexpensive alternative to a vector machine for those willing to sacrifice a bit of authenticity for a smaller budget.

==See Also==
* [[Video]]

[[Category:Video]]

PC Monitors

2007-06-05T23:49:26Z

Apollo:

A PC monitor is the simplest and most direct route to setting up a display for your arcade machine. PC monitors provide ok quality, are relatively inexpensive and are very simple to set up. As opposed to a television or authentic arcade monitor all that is required to display games on a PC monitor is to attach the monitor to your PCs VGA connector.

However, as stated before this price comes at a cost. Games tend to look "pixelated" (blocky looking graphics) due to the high resolutions that PC monitors run at. Enabling scan-lines (black lines across the screen) can make the quality better but it still does not compare to the quality that can be achieved on a television or better yet, an arcade monitor.

It is important to note that original arcade machines were run at quite a few different resolutions, and some of these resolutions will look better than others on a PC monitor. A simple PC monitor connection will never be able to give you a truly "authentic" arcade look due to these resolution considerations, but software tweaks and resolution adjstments can create an acceptable picture.

Fans of Vector arcade games should consider the following fact when considering PC monitors: The higher resolutions available on PC monitors create what many consider a "better" picture when emulationg vector graphics (compared to TVs or standard arcade monitors). This is because the higher resolution (generally SXGA and higher, though XGA will do, even on a 27" CRT) makes for much smoother graphics (lines) and greater anti-aliasing. (The latter is in regard to an object or line in motion, and how continuous it appears. On raster-type monitors, due to how they draw, there is usually a perceptible watery effect.) With the high prices of Vector monitors and the Zektor Vector Generator [http://www.zektor.com/zvg/ ZVG Homepage], a PC monitor could create an inexpensive alternative to a vector machine for those willing to sacrifice a bit of authenticity for a smaller budget.

==See Also==
* [[Video]]

[[Category:Video]]

PC Monitors

2007-06-05T23:48:08Z

Apollo:

A PC monitor is the simplest and most direct route to setting up a display for your arcade machine. PC monitors provide reasonable quality, are relatively inexpensive and are very simple to set up. As opposed to a television or authentic arcade monitor all that is required to display games on a PC monitor is to attach the monitor to your PCs VGA connector.

However, as stated before this price comes at a cost. Games tend to look "pixelated" (blocky looking graphics) due to the high resolutions that PC monitors run at. Enabling scan-lines (black lines across the screen) can make the quality better but it still does not compare to the quality that can be achieved on a television or better yet, an arcade monitor.

It is important to note that original arcade machines were run at quite a few different resolutions, and some of these resolutions will look better than others on a PC monitor. A simple PC monitor connection will never be able to give you a truly "authentic" arcade look due to these resolution considerations, but software tweaks and resolution adjstments can create an acceptable picture.

Fans of Vector arcade games should consider the following fact when considering PC monitors: The higher resolutions available on PC monitors create what many consider a "better" picture when emulationg vector graphics (compared to TVs or standard arcade monitors). This is because the higher resolution (generally SXGA and higher, though XGA will do, even on a 27" CRT) makes for much smoother graphics (lines) and greater anti-aliasing. (The latter is in regard to an object or line in motion, and how continuous it appears. On raster-type monitors, due to how they draw, there is usually a perceptible watery effect.) With the high prices of Vector monitors and the Zektor Vector Generator [http://www.zektor.com/zvg/ ZVG Homepage], a PC monitor could create an inexpensive alternative to a vector machine for those willing to sacrifice a bit of authenticity for a smaller budget.

==See Also==
* [[Video]]

[[Category:Video]]

Hiding Windows

2007-06-05T22:05:26Z

Apollo: /* Introduction */

{{DisclaimerSoftware}}

==Introduction==
To create the illusion that your home arcade machine is a 'real' arcade machine, it would be nice to be able to hide the familiar Windows PC look and feel. Nobody wants to see the Windows logo when your cabinet is turned on; it's kind of like being caught with your pants down. There are several ways of achieving this, let's have a look at your options...

''note: this article deals with hiding various parts of the operating system when the computer is in start-up phase. To hide the windows user interface and select games take a look at the [[Front-Ends|front-end software]] article.''

==Replacing Your BIOS Logo==

Some modern BIOSes support changing the logo that is the very first thing displayed when your computer turns on. It should be noted that there’s not too much to be gained from doing this as most computers are so fast that the image is only momentarily flashed and your display device normally won’t have got up to operating specifications before the BIOS screen disappears. If yours can be changed, there will be an utility to do this on the motherboard manufacturer’s website.

Some (but not all) ASUS brand motherboards support this feature. Support for this feature in other brands is unknown.

= [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]] Hiding Windows XP =
== Replacing Your Boot Screen ==

The boot screen is the Windows XP logo on a black background with a little blue progress bar underneath it. Before making any changes, be sure to create a System Restore point before attempting these methods. While not a "Get Out Of Jail Free" card, it can save you from yourself. This way, in case something goes wrong, restarting your computer, pressing and holding F8 until the Operating System menu appears and selecting “Last Known Good Configuration” should get you back to your previous state in most cases.

You can modify your boot screen in these ways:

=== '''BootSkin''' ===
: This product inserts a driver file into the XP startup sequence that displays an image instead of actually loading a driver.

:: Pros:
::* It does not patch or access any operating system files.
::* If something goes wrong, it is simple to fix.
::* You can customize both the screen and the progress bar.

:: Cons:
::* Relies on BIOS and driver manufacturers strictly obeying certain guidelines.
::* If the system is incompatible, you'll likely get a "blue screen of death".

=== '''BootXP''' ===
: This alters resources and some other bits in a file called “ntoskrnl.exe”.

:: Pros:
::* You can customize both the screen and the progress bar.

:: Cons:
::* '''''If something goes wrong, you will need an original Windows XP CD to put it right and knowledge of how to use the recovery console.'''''
::* It accesses and patches a critical operating system file.
::* You get really ugly and slow nag screens every time you want to change your boot screen if you don’t pay for it.

=== '''Slimm Boot-Logo / The Microsoft Way''' ===
: There is an undocumented switch in Microsoft Windows XP’s operating system settings file. Slimm Boot-Logo simply flicks the switch.

::* '''''You can also set this switch manually. Go to My Computer >Properties >Advanced >Startup and Recovery >Settings. Select “Edit startup options file”. Add “ /bootlogo /noguiboot” to your default operating system (there must be a space between each switch) and add a 16-color 640 x 480 pixel BMP file called "boot.bmp” to your Windows directory.'''''

:: Pros:
::* Simple, safe, simply asks the operating system to use a custom boot screen.
::* No illegal or unrecommended patching of any file.
::* Least chance of anything going wrong (your changed settings can be checked before you reboot. After performing the change, go to My Computer >Properties >Advanced >Startup and Recovery >Settings. If you still have “Microsoft Windows XP” in the combo box at the top, everything should work fine next time you boot.

:: Cons:
::* No progress bar on custom boot screen.
::* Have to convert your image to 640 x 480 pixels and 16 colors yourself.
::* If it goes wrong you will need an original Windows XP CD to put it right.

:::* '''If something goes wrong: You need to rebuild the “boot.ini” file using the instructions in [http://support.microsoft.com/default.aspx?scid=kb;en-us;330184 this knowledge base article]'''

=== Makeing Your Own Bootskin for XP using Bootskin_Free ===
This may work for other "skinning" softwares but I have only used Bootskin. 
This is a description of how to make your own Bootskin for win XP.

The bootskin is composed of 3 parts. The main image, the progress bar, 
and a little script (for lack of a beter term) to tie the two together. 
These are then placed into a folder and zipped.

*Start by making a folder for your bootskin.
*Rename it to Whateveryoulike.bootskin

I use Photoshop to make my images, but you can use any program that will allow
you to change color modes and save a profile of an indexed color palet.

*Main Picture is 640 x 480 (72dpi)
*Make it "Indexed color" - 16 Colors
*Save color loader table (Image->Modes->Color table->Save)
*Save as BMP - 4 bit - Imagename_Bootskin.bmp (Imagename is whatever you want it to be called)
*Make sure that you save this in your new bootskin folder.

*Progress bar is 22 x 9 (72dpi)
*Index color - load color table from BKG image (Image->Modes->Color table->load)
*Save as bmp - 4 bit - Imagename_Progress.bmp (imagename is whatever you want it to be called)
*Save this in your bootskin folder.

Next you will need to open notepad and make a description for the bootskin program
to know how to put your bootskin together. Here is a description of what needs to be inside. 

[BOOTSKIN] = what it is 
Type = (I do not know what this is for. When I read about this it said to use 0 and it works) 
Name = title of Bootskin (inside quotes) 
Author = You (inside quotes) 
Description = Description (inside quotes) 
Progressbar = the name of the progress bar file +.bpm 
Progressbarx (y)= X & Y Coordinates (in pixles) for where the progress bar is on the screen 
Progressbarwidth = How wide (in pixles) do you want your progress bar to be. 
Screen = The name main image + .bmp 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Here is the last one that I did. You can use it to get yourself on track. 
Open notepad and copy - paste the script below. 

[BootSkin] 
Type= 0 
Name = "Blackout" 
Author = "MYX" 
Description = "Blackout Theme based skin" 
ProgressBar= BO_Progress.bmp 
ProgressBarX = 140 
ProgressBarY = 400 
ProgressBarWidth = 360 
Screen= Blackout_Bootskin.bmp 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Once you have finished filling out your tweaks, save it as bootskin.ini 
You will have to type the .ini. 
This changes it from a txt document into a configuration document.

Make sure all 3 parts are in your Your.bootskin folder. 
Then you have to zip the folder. 
*Right click on the folder.
*When the menu comes up select send to -> Compressed (zipped) Folder

Now that your bootskin is zipped you can put it into the bootskin program. 
In Bootskin, I have found that when I navigate to where the folder is many times the bootskin folder does not show up. In the name box, if you start to type the name of the bootskin folder, it will appear and then you can select it. Not sure why this is.

Clear as mud? Good.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

=== '''A Hardware Solution For Hiding BIOS & Boot Screens''' ===

: This may be set-up dependant thus it may or may not work for your setup. In the first step, a cheap or even free part is recommended. This will make testing this method easier on the wallet.

:# You must be using an AGP video card in your PC. Add a PCI video card to your system (use the cheapest model you can find - it may not even have to work, so you may be able to find a free card!)
:# Go into the BIOS setup screen of your PC, and find the "Video Card" setting. Change it to "PCI" instead of AGP.
:# Reboot your PC

: The BIOS messages and boot screen should now be output only to the PCI card. The monitor, still plugged into the AGP card, should stay blank until Windows starts. If any BIOS changes are needed, you'll have to plug the monitor into the PCI card, so ensure your PC's BIOS settings are configured prior to attempting this step.

== Replacing Explorer With Your FE In XP ==

To almost completely bypass Windows and its trimmings, you may want to set up your [[Front-Ends| front end]] as a shell.

: '''Note: To do this automagically during startup in XP your computer may be a part of a workgroup, but it CAN'T be part of a domain.'''

Here is the process to follow in order to set up your front end as a shell:

*You must have at least 2 users with admin privileges
*Open the user that will be auto logged in to the account that will be running your front end as a shell. This user should have admin rights.
*Set XP to automate the login process.
*#Click start >run >type <pre>control userpasswords2</pre>
*#Deselect the '''Users must enter a username and password...''' checkbox.
*#Click '''Apply'''
*#Enter the user & pass you want to login with & click '''OK'''
*#Click '''OK''' again
* Configure your front end... this is not a trial run, so make sure it's the way you want it. You can always get the explorer back, but it will take a minute or two to do so.
* Open '''regedit''' and find
<pre>HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows NT\CurrentVersion\IniFileMapping\system.ini\boot</pre>
* Find a string entry called '''Shell.'''
* Change the first 3 letters (which should read SYS) to USR. The path after USR will look different for your system, but it should appear similar to this: USR:BLAH\BLAH\BLAH. This tells windows to ignore the system’s shell values and load up a shell value on a user by user basis. If you don’t do this it will never even look for the shell value in the current user key, meaning the next part won’t ever be seen.
* Now (still in regedit) open these registry folders as follows:
<pre>HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Windows NT\CurrentVersion\Winlogon</pre>
* If you can't find '''Shell''' create a string entry and name it '''Shell'''.
* Set the string entry to the name and directory location of your front end, for example <pre>C:\arcade\mamewah.exe</pre> YOURS may be different, use YOUR OWN path to the exe!
* Log out as the auto-login user and log back in as another user with administrative rights. (You DID create 2 accounts with adminstrative priveledges as was suggested, right? )
* If you want to limit the access of the auto log-in user set the auto-login user to a '''standard user'''

===What to do if you removed the taskbar and want it back===

Should you ever care to go back to the way things were, after firing up your front end, simply hit ctrl alt del and run regedit again, and delete the shell entry you created. POOF! Everything’s back to “normal” again!

If you just want the taskbar back temporarily then do the following:

# Exit your front end and go back to your taskbar-less desktop.
# Press Ctrl+Alt+Delete.
# In Windows XP the task manager appears. On Windows 2000 you need to press the "Task Manager" button as an extra step.
# Click on the "New Task" button.
# At the "Create New Task" window type "explorer" and hit OK.

===Launching Programs/Utilities in the background===

If you set your [[Front-Ends| front end]] as a shell you may notice that other programs you had set to startup on Boot are no longer loading in the background.
* [[Other_Software#Utilities | XYNTService]] will allow you to continue to load any programs that don't already support launching as a System Service.

===Alternate Method Without Messing With The Registry===

You can achieve a similar affect as the above (although not as "complete", and may or may not be acceptable to you) with the following steps:

# Put a shortcut to your FE's .exe file in “Startup” folder.
# Hide all windows desktop icons. You will need to [http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/downloads/powertoys/xppowertoys.mspx download and install the Microsoft PowerToy TweakUI] and change the Desktop settings.
# Set desktop to black or use a wallpaper image of your choice
# Auto hide task bar.

==Returning to Explorer once FE Quits==

* If you would like the Explorer shell to start up after you quit your frontend, this is possible. Here is how to do it using Mamewah as an example. Keep in mind, that this is only possible if the frontend that you use supports launching an application on exit. Also, the location of the option to do this won't be in the same place everytime, Mamewah is just used as an example.

# Go to your Mamewah folder and edit your mamewah.ini file
# Near the bottom of the list of options is app_to_run_on_exit enter explorer.exe next to it and save the file.

Now, everytime you quit Mamewah, it will exit back to the Explorer shell.

Edit:
From
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=22da901a92d294b12067b40fa135b06e&topic=53467.40
posted there by Capthowdy

Edit your mamewah\ctrlr\default.ini

EXIT_WITH_CHOICE

EXIT_TO_WINDOWS "DIK_ESCAPE"

EXIT_AND_RUN_APP

EXIT_AND_REBOOT

EXIT_AND_SHUTDOWN

guess where "DIK_ESCAPE" needs to be! That's right...make it look like this:

EXIT_WITH_CHOICE

EXIT_TO_WINDOWS

EXIT_AND_RUN_APP "DIK_ESCAPE"

EXIT_AND_REBOOT

EXIT_AND_SHUTDOWN

== Getting rid of the "Loading settings" Popup screens ==

* The following will hide the dialog box that appears that the beggining of Windows startup informing you that the system is "Loading Settings".

To do this,follow these steps:

# Go to, Start Menu -> Run and enter regedit
# Navigate to entry: <pre>HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE>Software>Microsoft>Windows>CurrentVersion>Policies>System</pre>
# If there is an entry for "DisableStatusMessages" set it to 1 (the digit one)

* If there is no entry, right-mouse click the "System" word, and select New->DWORD value, and enter "DisableStatusMessages", right-mouse to edit the value of it, and enter 1 (the digit one).

==Hiding The Mouse Pointer While Logging Into Windows==

*After having everything else stripped out of Windows, seeing the cursor briefly while Windows boots up is a real experience killer. Here is how to get rid of it! Please make sure you read this thoroughly before you start, as you might get stuck with an invisible pointer, and that won't be fun to get back to normal!

# Download this version of TweakUI, it has a special option that we are going to need. http://www.systemsmedic.com/DownloadFiles/TweakUIXP.exe
# Once this is installed, go to Control Panel>Mouse>Pointers and change all of your cursors to a cursor file that is invisible, and save this to a scheme of your choice, Ex. "Mame cursors". See TIP at the bottom for some extra info on the cursor.
#Save the scheme, but don't apply it yet, as it will be hard to navigate Windows with an invisible pointer.
#The last thing to do is to apply the settings to make the cursors invisible. Go back to the cursor screen in the Windows Control Panel, load your scheme and hit apply. It'll be hard, if not impossible to see your cursor, depending on which type of cursor you made, which is why this is the last step. Squint your way into your start menu and open TweakUI. If you can't see the cursor, just hit the Windows key on your keyboard to bring up the start menu. (If your keyboard doesn't have a "Windows key", you can alternatively get the start menu by pressing '''Ctrl + Esc'''.) Go to the LOGON option, and somewhere there is the option to copy your wall paper etc. across to the Logon Screen. Check that, and hit apply or press Alt+A.

*If you have made an invisible cursor and you can't seem to get around Windows once you exit your FE, you can just log out of the current user and log into the computer as an administrator and all those settings should be untouched. To do this without a mouse, just hit Win+L and it will bring up the login menu (Win is the windows key on the keyboard, right between Ctrl and Alt. Another useful hotkey is Win+R which brings up the Run menu.

TIP: When you download Mamewah, the zip contains an invisible cursor, so you can use that one if you'd like. Also, you can make a cursor that is just a dot, so that it is almost invisible but it can be used to navigate if needed.

===Alternate Change Cursor Method (Without TweakUI)===

NOTE: This method was tested to work with Windows 2000 and Windows XP.

1. Open up regedit.exe

2. Go to the following key:
HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Control Panel\Cursors
3. Here you can change the assigned mouse cursor files for your the current user. You can change them all but in my experience the following three do the job for cursor concealment:

::* "AppStarting"
::* "Arrow"
::* "Wait"

NOTE: At this point it is a good idea to backup this branch in case you change your mind.

4. Change the values you wish to replace with the name of the cursor you wish to have instead. Write it using a FULL PATH, for example: ''"c:\temp\my_special_cursor.cur"''

Make sure what you writing is correct and prefer changing spaces to something else if your cursor file is using them.

5. Close regedit.exe and reboot your machine.

===Changing the Cursor Shape During the Logon Screen===

For this you need to change the assigned cursor values for the ".DEFAULT" user account. The registry key is:

HKEY_USERS\.DEFAULT\Control Panel\Cursors

If the "Cursors" key does not exist then create it yourself. At the "(Default)" value type a title for the cursor scheme (e.g. "My Special Cursors"). Create REG_EXPAND_SZ entries for the cursor types you wish to change. Use the values mentioned in the previous section as a guide. Reboot your machine for changes to take effect.

== Welcome/Startup/Shutdown/Background Color ==

* To hide the Welcome Screen (where you'd normally log in) you'll need to change from the default windows XP welcome screen to the other style by going to Control Panels >User Accounts >Change the way users logon or off. Deselect the “Use Welcome Screen” checkbox.

* To change the login background color from blue to black (to better hide it), use regedit again and navigate to
<pre>HKEY_USERS\DEFAULT\Control Panel\Colors\Background</pre>
The 3-digit RGB color for black is 0 0 0.

* If this causes the "Classic" login screen to appear that prompts for a password, the login can be automated as follows:

#Click start >run >type <pre>control userpasswords2</pre>
#Highlight the user you want to log into automatically, then deselect the '''Users must enter a username and password...''' checkbox.
#Click '''Apply''' and you'll be asked to verify the username and password to log in automatically
#Click '''OK''' again and the next time you restart your computer, you'll automatically be logged in without having the classic prompt or Welcome Screen.

== Removing pop-up bubbles ==

* In Windows XP, you occasionaly get pop-up bubbles with all kinds of useful (or less useful) information. In the application of running an arcade machine, we use low resolutions, like 640x480 or even 640x288. In these resolutions Windows XP tries to be helpful and lets you know via a pop-up bubble that your resolution setting is not ideal for this videocard. (Another bubble that can come up because of the low resolution is from the Start menu indicating it cannot show all items on the Start menu because of the low resolution.
We need to live with this, so there is no point in these bubbles coming up everytime.)

* To turn ALL (!) bubbles off follow these steps:

1. Click Start, click Run, type regedit, and then press ENTER.

2. Navigate to the following subkey:
<pre>HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Explorer\Advanced</pre>

3. Right-click the right pane, create a new DWORD value, and then name it EnableBalloonTips.

4. Double-click this new entry, and then give it a hexadecimal value of 0.

5. Quit Registry Editor. Log off Windows, and then log back on.

These steps disable all Notification Area balloon tips for this user. There is no way to disable balloon tips for specific programs only.

==Hide Desktop Icons==

To hide all of your desktop icons look for the following registry key:

HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Policies\Explorer\NoDesktop

Set it to 1 to hide the icons, 0 to show them (this is the default).

= [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]] Hiding Windows 98 =

Hiding Windows 98 is lots easier than hiding Windows XP.

== Replacing Your Boot Screen ==
* Create a black picture with in BMP format, RGB encoded, 320x400 resolution, 256 colors in MS Paint or another paint application
* Do NOT try to save pictures in 16bit or 32bit colors or such, because it may crash Windows.
* Replace logo.sys, logow.sys and logos.sys with your new picture (these are actually bmp files, which were renamed to sys).

Here is more in-depth info about replacing:
[http://www.annoyances.org/exec/show/article02-011 Replace the Ugly Startup and Shutdown Screens].

Here is a post with lots of good links to logos and free editing tools:
[http://www.msfn.org/board/index.php?showtopic=38262&st=0&p=314806&#entry314806 Animated/static Win9x/ME logos and free tools to create/edit/manage animated/static logos].

===Special concerns when using the ArcadeVGA===
When using a custom boot screen logo with the ArcadeVGA video card, the boot resolution is 320x200. This results in only the top half of the image being visible. However, Windows still requires an image that is the full 320x400 pixels. A simple way to handle this is to make a standard sized boot screen image, resize it vertically 50%, then paste two copies (stacked vertically) into a new 320x400 BMP image.

== Hiding The Mouse Pointer While Logging Into Windows ==
You can doing the same way as Windows XP.

== Hiding The taskbar ==
Coming Soon.

==See Also==
* [[Software]]

[[Category:Software]]
[[Category:Index]]

Pushbuttons

2007-06-05T22:02:48Z

Apollo: /* Leafswitch Pushbuttons */

__NOTOC__
'''Pushbuttons''' are the simplest and most common form of control consisting of a momentary switch that makes contact when pressed.

== Microswitch Pushbuttons==
[[Image:Happ-horiz-pushbutton.gif|right|thumb|120px|Microswitch Pushbutton]]
Pushbuttons come in various shapes, sizes and configurations though the most common is the Industrias Lorenzo horizontal microswitch pushbutton (aka Happ Horizontal Pushbutton). Because they use a microswitch these buttons make a clicking noise on activation and deactivation that may seem a little alien to many old-school gamers. They comprise the following parts:
* Button plunger
* Button housing/bezel
* Spring
* Microswitch

The plunger top may be concave, flat or convex. The microswitch can be positioned horizontally or vertically. Most people prefer horizontal orientation as these tend to be more reliable ([[horizontal versus vertical pushbuttons|read why here.]]) Microswitch pushbuttons are probably the most popular type of button used in arcades. Because of this they can be found in almost any color both opaque and transparent. They can also be found with little men icons, generally used as start buttons for the player indicated.

These buttons are sold by numerous [[vendors]]. Common suppliers are [http://www.happcontrols.com/ Happ], [http://www.ultimarc.com Ultimarc], [http://www.fxbuttons.com FX Buttons] and [http://www.groovygamegear.com GroovyGameGear.]

Installation requires a 1 1/8" hole.

==Leafswitch Pushbuttons==
{| align=right
| [[image:Leafswitch-button.jpg|thumb|80px|Leafswitch Buttons]]
| [[image:Leafswitch-holder.jpg|thumb|80px|Leafswitch Holders]]
| [[image:Leafswitch-palnuts.jpg|thumb|80px|Leafswitch Pal Nuts]]
|}
Before microswitch pushbuttons appeared, leafswitch pushbuttons were the standard and are still preferred by many people today. The main advantage to leafswitches over microswitches is that they are almost completely silent. They comprise the following parts:
* Button
* Button holder (usually with the actual leafswitch attached)
* Pal nut
As with most types of pushbuttons, they come in two lengths; long (1 7/8") for wooden panels and short (1 5/8") for metal panels.

It is occasionally difficult to find buttons of the appropriate color and the appropriate length for a particular project. In those situations, check [http://homearcade.org/BBBB/leafsw.html Leaf Switches & Button Solutions]by [http://homearcade.org/BBBB/index.html The Real Bob Roberts] for potential solutions.

==Atari Volcano Buttons==
{| align=right
| [[Image:SirPsVolcano.jpg|right|100px]]
|
{| cellpadding=0 cellspacing=0 border=0
|[[Image:Ataributton.gif|right|52px]]
|[[Image:Volcano switch black.jpg|right|56px]]
|}
|-
| [[Image:Volcano switchs red n blk1.jpg|right|100px]]
| [[Image:Volcano switch n lens.jpg|right|100px]]
|-
| [[Image:Volcano switch lens1.jpg|right|100px]]
| [[Image:Volcano switchs red n blk2.jpg|right|100px]]
|}
Also known as cone buttons, volcano buttons are comprised of:
* Microswitch
* Lens (plunger)
* Plastic mounting clip/brace
* Plastic or aluminium cone

These were used as player start buttons in many Atari cabinets, available with illuminated red and later solid black lenses. The red button lens would blink when a player inserted a coin and remain lit during gameplay. Taller cones were used on fire buttons of Missile Command.

The actual switch used appears to be a [http://www.cherrycorp.com/english/switches/submini/db.htm Cherry DB3] sub-miniature microswitch. This switch is still available from Cherry, however the plastic mounting clip and lenses have been out of production for some time. The plastic cones were re-produced by [http://www.gamecab.com/products.asp?cat=25 Gamecab], but have been unavailable for a while now.

[http://www.ram-controls.com/order-cones.html RAM Controls] is currently a source for these cones and switches. They not only manufacture and sell the cones in various heights and finishes but they are also a supplier of [http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/wiki/Glossary NOS] switches.

[[Image:Eao 11-131.jpg|left|100px|EAO 11-131.825N switch with 11-931.2 red lens]]Charlie from Gamecab.com discovered that a company called EAO currently manufactures switch assemblies that are quite similar to the original Cherry P163 assemblies. They don't include an LED, but the neck is threaded the same as an Atari cone, so they work pretty well together. They are available from [http://www.newark.com/product-details/text/CD121/5134.html Newark In One].

Related BYOAC Forum threads: [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?board=1;action=display;threadid=11468 1] -
[http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=11123.0 2] - [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=42155.0 3] - [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=42509.0 4]

==See Also==
* [[Controls]]

[[Category:Controls]]
[[Category:Index]]

Pushbuttons

2007-06-05T21:56:50Z

Apollo: /* Leafswitch Pushbuttons */

__NOTOC__
'''Pushbuttons''' are the simplest and most common form of control consisting of a momentary switch that makes contact when pressed.

== Microswitch Pushbuttons==
[[Image:Happ-horiz-pushbutton.gif|right|thumb|120px|Microswitch Pushbutton]]
Pushbuttons come in various shapes, sizes and configurations though the most common is the Industrias Lorenzo horizontal microswitch pushbutton (aka Happ Horizontal Pushbutton). Because they use a microswitch these buttons make a clicking noise on activation and deactivation that may seem a little alien to many old-school gamers. They comprise the following parts:
* Button plunger
* Button housing/bezel
* Spring
* Microswitch

The plunger top may be concave, flat or convex. The microswitch can be positioned horizontally or vertically. Most people prefer horizontal orientation as these tend to be more reliable ([[horizontal versus vertical pushbuttons|read why here.]]) Microswitch pushbuttons are probably the most popular type of button used in arcades. Because of this they can be found in almost any color both opaque and transparent. They can also be found with little men icons, generally used as start buttons for the player indicated.

These buttons are sold by numerous [[vendors]]. Common suppliers are [http://www.happcontrols.com/ Happ], [http://www.ultimarc.com Ultimarc], [http://www.fxbuttons.com FX Buttons] and [http://www.groovygamegear.com GroovyGameGear.]

Installation requires a 1 1/8" hole.

==Leafswitch Pushbuttons==
{| align=right
| [[image:Leafswitch-button.jpg|thumb|80px|Leafswitch Buttons]]
| [[image:Leafswitch-holder.jpg|thumb|80px|Leafswitch Holders]]
| [[image:Leafswitch-palnuts.jpg|thumb|80px|Leafswitch Pal Nuts]]
|}
Before microswitch pushbuttons appeared, leafswitch pushbuttons were the standard and are still preferred by many people today. The main advantage to leafswitches over microswitches is that they are almost completely silent. They comprise the following parts:
* Button
* Button holder (usually with the actual leafswitch attached)
* Pal nut
As with most types of pushbuttons, they come in two lengths; long (1 7/8") for wooden panels and short (1 5/8") for metal panels.

It is occasionally difficult to find buttons of the appropriate color and the appropriate length for a particular project. In those situations, check [http://homearcade.org/BBBB/leafsw.html Leaf Switches & Button Solutions] by [http://homearcade.org/BBBB/index.html The Real Bob Roberts] for potential solutions.

==Atari Volcano Buttons==
{| align=right
| [[Image:SirPsVolcano.jpg|right|100px]]
|
{| cellpadding=0 cellspacing=0 border=0
|[[Image:Ataributton.gif|right|52px]]
|[[Image:Volcano switch black.jpg|right|56px]]
|}
|-
| [[Image:Volcano switchs red n blk1.jpg|right|100px]]
| [[Image:Volcano switch n lens.jpg|right|100px]]
|-
| [[Image:Volcano switch lens1.jpg|right|100px]]
| [[Image:Volcano switchs red n blk2.jpg|right|100px]]
|}
Also known as cone buttons, volcano buttons are comprised of:
* Microswitch
* Lens (plunger)
* Plastic mounting clip/brace
* Plastic or aluminium cone

These were used as player start buttons in many Atari cabinets, available with illuminated red and later solid black lenses. The red button lens would blink when a player inserted a coin and remain lit during gameplay. Taller cones were used on fire buttons of Missile Command.

The actual switch used appears to be a [http://www.cherrycorp.com/english/switches/submini/db.htm Cherry DB3] sub-miniature microswitch. This switch is still available from Cherry, however the plastic mounting clip and lenses have been out of production for some time. The plastic cones were re-produced by [http://www.gamecab.com/products.asp?cat=25 Gamecab], but have been unavailable for a while now.

[http://www.ram-controls.com/order-cones.html RAM Controls] is currently a source for these cones and switches. They not only manufacture and sell the cones in various heights and finishes but they are also a supplier of [http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/wiki/Glossary NOS] switches.

[[Image:Eao 11-131.jpg|left|100px|EAO 11-131.825N switch with 11-931.2 red lens]]Charlie from Gamecab.com discovered that a company called EAO currently manufactures switch assemblies that are quite similar to the original Cherry P163 assemblies. They don't include an LED, but the neck is threaded the same as an Atari cone, so they work pretty well together. They are available from [http://www.newark.com/product-details/text/CD121/5134.html Newark In One].

Related BYOAC Forum threads: [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?board=1;action=display;threadid=11468 1] -
[http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=11123.0 2] - [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=42155.0 3] - [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=42509.0 4]

==See Also==
* [[Controls]]

[[Category:Controls]]
[[Category:Index]]

Pushbuttons

2007-06-05T21:56:23Z

Apollo: /* Leafswitch Pushbuttons */

__NOTOC__
'''Pushbuttons''' are the simplest and most common form of control consisting of a momentary switch that makes contact when pressed.

== Microswitch Pushbuttons==
[[Image:Happ-horiz-pushbutton.gif|right|thumb|120px|Microswitch Pushbutton]]
Pushbuttons come in various shapes, sizes and configurations though the most common is the Industrias Lorenzo horizontal microswitch pushbutton (aka Happ Horizontal Pushbutton). Because they use a microswitch these buttons make a clicking noise on activation and deactivation that may seem a little alien to many old-school gamers. They comprise the following parts:
* Button plunger
* Button housing/bezel
* Spring
* Microswitch

The plunger top may be concave, flat or convex. The microswitch can be positioned horizontally or vertically. Most people prefer horizontal orientation as these tend to be more reliable ([[horizontal versus vertical pushbuttons|read why here.]]) Microswitch pushbuttons are probably the most popular type of button used in arcades. Because of this they can be found in almost any color both opaque and transparent. They can also be found with little men icons, generally used as start buttons for the player indicated.

These buttons are sold by numerous [[vendors]]. Common suppliers are [http://www.happcontrols.com/ Happ], [http://www.ultimarc.com Ultimarc], [http://www.fxbuttons.com FX Buttons] and [http://www.groovygamegear.com GroovyGameGear.]

Installation requires a 1 1/8" hole.

==Leafswitch Pushbuttons==
{| align=right
| [[image:Leafswitch-button.jpg|thumb|80px|Leafswitch Buttons]]
| [[image:Leafswitch-holder.jpg|thumb|80px|Leafswitch Holders]]
| [[image:Leafswitch-palnuts.jpg|thumb|80px|Leafswitch Pal Nuts]]
|}
Before microswitch pushbuttons appeared, leafswitch pushbuttons were the standard and are still preferred by many people today. The main advantage to leafswitches over microswitches is that they are almost completely silent. They are comprised of...
* Button
* Button holder (usually with the actual leafswitch attached)
* Pal nut
As with most types of pushbuttons, they come in two lengths; long (1 7/8") for wooden panels and short (1 5/8") for metal panels.

It is occasionally difficult to find buttons of the appropriate color and the appropriate length for a particular project. In those situations, check [http://homearcade.org/BBBB/leafsw.html Leaf Switches & Button Solutions] by [http://homearcade.org/BBBB/index.html The Real Bob Roberts] for potential solutions.

==Atari Volcano Buttons==
{| align=right
| [[Image:SirPsVolcano.jpg|right|100px]]
|
{| cellpadding=0 cellspacing=0 border=0
|[[Image:Ataributton.gif|right|52px]]
|[[Image:Volcano switch black.jpg|right|56px]]
|}
|-
| [[Image:Volcano switchs red n blk1.jpg|right|100px]]
| [[Image:Volcano switch n lens.jpg|right|100px]]
|-
| [[Image:Volcano switch lens1.jpg|right|100px]]
| [[Image:Volcano switchs red n blk2.jpg|right|100px]]
|}
Also known as cone buttons, volcano buttons are comprised of:
* Microswitch
* Lens (plunger)
* Plastic mounting clip/brace
* Plastic or aluminium cone

These were used as player start buttons in many Atari cabinets, available with illuminated red and later solid black lenses. The red button lens would blink when a player inserted a coin and remain lit during gameplay. Taller cones were used on fire buttons of Missile Command.

The actual switch used appears to be a [http://www.cherrycorp.com/english/switches/submini/db.htm Cherry DB3] sub-miniature microswitch. This switch is still available from Cherry, however the plastic mounting clip and lenses have been out of production for some time. The plastic cones were re-produced by [http://www.gamecab.com/products.asp?cat=25 Gamecab], but have been unavailable for a while now.

[http://www.ram-controls.com/order-cones.html RAM Controls] is currently a source for these cones and switches. They not only manufacture and sell the cones in various heights and finishes but they are also a supplier of [http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/wiki/Glossary NOS] switches.

[[Image:Eao 11-131.jpg|left|100px|EAO 11-131.825N switch with 11-931.2 red lens]]Charlie from Gamecab.com discovered that a company called EAO currently manufactures switch assemblies that are quite similar to the original Cherry P163 assemblies. They don't include an LED, but the neck is threaded the same as an Atari cone, so they work pretty well together. They are available from [http://www.newark.com/product-details/text/CD121/5134.html Newark In One].

Related BYOAC Forum threads: [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?board=1;action=display;threadid=11468 1] -
[http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=11123.0 2] - [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=42155.0 3] - [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=42509.0 4]

==See Also==
* [[Controls]]

[[Category:Controls]]
[[Category:Index]]

Pushbuttons

2007-06-05T21:52:07Z

Apollo:

__NOTOC__
'''Pushbuttons''' are the simplest and most common form of control consisting of a momentary switch that makes contact when pressed.

== Microswitch Pushbuttons==
[[Image:Happ-horiz-pushbutton.gif|right|thumb|120px|Microswitch Pushbutton]]
Pushbuttons come in various shapes, sizes and configurations though the most common is the Industrias Lorenzo horizontal microswitch pushbutton (aka Happ Horizontal Pushbutton). Because they use a microswitch these buttons make a clicking noise on activation and deactivation that may seem a little alien to many old-school gamers. They comprise the following parts:
* Button plunger
* Button housing/bezel
* Spring
* Microswitch

The plunger top may be concave, flat or convex. The microswitch can be positioned horizontally or vertically. Most people prefer horizontal orientation as these tend to be more reliable ([[horizontal versus vertical pushbuttons|read why here.]]) Microswitch pushbuttons are probably the most popular type of button used in arcades. Because of this they can be found in almost any color both opaque and transparent. They can also be found with little men icons, generally used as start buttons for the player indicated.

These buttons are sold by numerous [[vendors]]. Common suppliers are [http://www.happcontrols.com/ Happ], [http://www.ultimarc.com Ultimarc], [http://www.fxbuttons.com FX Buttons] and [http://www.groovygamegear.com GroovyGameGear.]

Installation requires a 1 1/8" hole.

==Leafswitch Pushbuttons==
{| align=right
| [[image:Leafswitch-button.jpg|thumb|80px|Leafswitch Buttons]]
| [[image:Leafswitch-holder.jpg|thumb|80px|Leafswitch Holders]]
| [[image:Leafswitch-palnuts.jpg|thumb|80px|Leafswitch Pal Nuts]]
|}
Before microswitch pushbuttons appeared, leafswitch pushbuttons were the de facto standards and are still prefered by many people today. The main advantage to leafswitches over microswitched is that they're almost completely silent. They are comprised of...
* Button
* Button holder (usually with the actual leafswitch attached)
* Pal nut
As with most types of pushbuttons, they come in two lengths; long (1 7/8") for wooden panels and short (1 5/8") for metal panels.

It is occasionally difficult to find buttons of the appropriate color and the appropriate length for a particular project. In those situations, check [http://homearcade.org/BBBB/leafsw.html Leaf Switches & Button Solutions] by [http://homearcade.org/BBBB/index.html The Real Bob Roberts] for potential solutions.

==Atari Volcano Buttons==
{| align=right
| [[Image:SirPsVolcano.jpg|right|100px]]
|
{| cellpadding=0 cellspacing=0 border=0
|[[Image:Ataributton.gif|right|52px]]
|[[Image:Volcano switch black.jpg|right|56px]]
|}
|-
| [[Image:Volcano switchs red n blk1.jpg|right|100px]]
| [[Image:Volcano switch n lens.jpg|right|100px]]
|-
| [[Image:Volcano switch lens1.jpg|right|100px]]
| [[Image:Volcano switchs red n blk2.jpg|right|100px]]
|}
Also known as cone buttons, volcano buttons are comprised of:
* Microswitch
* Lens (plunger)
* Plastic mounting clip/brace
* Plastic or aluminium cone

These were used as player start buttons in many Atari cabinets, available with illuminated red and later solid black lenses. The red button lens would blink when a player inserted a coin and remain lit during gameplay. Taller cones were used on fire buttons of Missile Command.

The actual switch used appears to be a [http://www.cherrycorp.com/english/switches/submini/db.htm Cherry DB3] sub-miniature microswitch. This switch is still available from Cherry, however the plastic mounting clip and lenses have been out of production for some time. The plastic cones were re-produced by [http://www.gamecab.com/products.asp?cat=25 Gamecab], but have been unavailable for a while now.

[http://www.ram-controls.com/order-cones.html RAM Controls] is currently a source for these cones and switches. They not only manufacture and sell the cones in various heights and finishes but they are also a supplier of [http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/wiki/Glossary NOS] switches.

[[Image:Eao 11-131.jpg|left|100px|EAO 11-131.825N switch with 11-931.2 red lens]]Charlie from Gamecab.com discovered that a company called EAO currently manufactures switch assemblies that are quite similar to the original Cherry P163 assemblies. They don't include an LED, but the neck is threaded the same as an Atari cone, so they work pretty well together. They are available from [http://www.newark.com/product-details/text/CD121/5134.html Newark In One].

Related BYOAC Forum threads: [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?board=1;action=display;threadid=11468 1] -
[http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=11123.0 2] - [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=42155.0 3] - [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=42509.0 4]

==See Also==
* [[Controls]]

[[Category:Controls]]
[[Category:Index]]

Pushbuttons

2007-06-05T21:49:39Z

Apollo:

__NOTOC__
'''Pushbuttons''' are the simplest and most common form of control consisting of a momentary switch that makes contact when pressed.

== Microswitch Pushbuttons==
[[Image:Happ-horiz-pushbutton.gif|right|thumb|120px|Microswitch Pushbutton]]
Pushbuttons come in various shapes, sizes and configurations though the most common is the Industrias Lorenzo horizontal microswitch pushbutton (aka Happ Horizontal Pushbutton). Because they use a microswitch these buttons make a clicking noise on activation and deactivation that may seem a little alien to many old-school gamers. They comprise the following parts:
* Button plunger
* Button housing/bezel
* Spring
* Microswitch

The plunger top may be concave, flat or convex. The microswitch can be orientated horizontally or vertically. Most people prefer horizontal orientation as these tend to be more reliable ([[horizontal versus vertical pushbuttons|read why here.]]) Microswitch pushbuttons are probably the most popular type of button used in arcades. Because of this they can be found in almost any color both opaque and transparent. They can also be found with little men icons, generally used as start buttons for the player indicated.

These buttons are sold by numerous [[vendors]]. Common suppliers are [http://www.happcontrols.com/ Happ], [http://www.ultimarc.com Ultimarc], [http://www.fxbuttons.com FX Buttons] and [http://www.groovygamegear.com GroovyGameGear.]

Installation requires a 1 1/8" hole.

==Leafswitch Pushbuttons==
{| align=right
| [[image:Leafswitch-button.jpg|thumb|80px|Leafswitch Buttons]]
| [[image:Leafswitch-holder.jpg|thumb|80px|Leafswitch Holders]]
| [[image:Leafswitch-palnuts.jpg|thumb|80px|Leafswitch Pal Nuts]]
|}
Before microswitch pushbuttons appeared, leafswitch pushbuttons were the de facto standards and are still prefered by many people today. The main advantage to leafswitches over microswitched is that they're almost completely silent. They are comprised of...
* Button
* Button holder (usually with the actual leafswitch attached)
* Pal nut
As with most types of pushbuttons, they come in two lengths; long (1 7/8") for wooden panels and short (1 5/8") for metal panels.

It is occasionally difficult to find buttons of the appropriate color and the appropriate length for a particular project. In those situations, check [http://homearcade.org/BBBB/leafsw.html Leaf Switches & Button Solutions] by [http://homearcade.org/BBBB/index.html The Real Bob Roberts] for potential solutions.

==Atari Volcano Buttons==
{| align=right
| [[Image:SirPsVolcano.jpg|right|100px]]
|
{| cellpadding=0 cellspacing=0 border=0
|[[Image:Ataributton.gif|right|52px]]
|[[Image:Volcano switch black.jpg|right|56px]]
|}
|-
| [[Image:Volcano switchs red n blk1.jpg|right|100px]]
| [[Image:Volcano switch n lens.jpg|right|100px]]
|-
| [[Image:Volcano switch lens1.jpg|right|100px]]
| [[Image:Volcano switchs red n blk2.jpg|right|100px]]
|}
Also known as cone buttons, volcano buttons are comprised of:
* Microswitch
* Lens (plunger)
* Plastic mounting clip/brace
* Plastic or aluminium cone

These were used as player start buttons in many Atari cabinets, available with illuminated red and later solid black lenses. The red button lens would blink when a player inserted a coin and remain lit during gameplay. Taller cones were used on fire buttons of Missile Command.

The actual switch used appears to be a [http://www.cherrycorp.com/english/switches/submini/db.htm Cherry DB3] sub-miniature microswitch. This switch is still available from Cherry, however the plastic mounting clip and lenses have been out of production for some time. The plastic cones were re-produced by [http://www.gamecab.com/products.asp?cat=25 Gamecab], but have been unavailable for a while now.

[http://www.ram-controls.com/order-cones.html RAM Controls] is currently a source for these cones and switches. They not only manufacture and sell the cones in various heights and finishes but they are also a supplier of [http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/wiki/Glossary NOS] switches.

[[Image:Eao 11-131.jpg|left|100px|EAO 11-131.825N switch with 11-931.2 red lens]]Charlie from Gamecab.com discovered that a company called EAO currently manufactures switch assemblies that are quite similar to the original Cherry P163 assemblies. They don't include an LED, but the neck is threaded the same as an Atari cone, so they work pretty well together. They are available from [http://www.newark.com/product-details/text/CD121/5134.html Newark In One].

Related BYOAC Forum threads: [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?board=1;action=display;threadid=11468 1] -
[http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=11123.0 2] - [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=42155.0 3] - [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=42509.0 4]

==See Also==
* [[Controls]]

[[Category:Controls]]
[[Category:Index]]

Pushbuttons

2007-06-05T21:48:49Z

Apollo:

__NOTOC__
'''Pushbuttons''' are the simplest and most common form of control consisting of a momentary switch that makes contact when pressed.

== Microswitch Pushbuttons==
[[Image:Happ-horiz-pushbutton.gif|right|thumb|120px|Microswitch Pushbutton]]
Pushbuttons come in various shapes, sizes and configurations though the most common is the Industrias Lorenzo (iL) horizontal microswitch pushbutton (aka Happ Horizontal Pushbutton). Because they use a microswitch these buttons make a clicking noise on activation and deactivation that may seem a little alien to many old-school gamers. They comprise the following parts:
* Button plunger
* Button housing/bezel
* Spring
* Microswitch

The plunger top may be concave, flat or convex. The microswitch can be orientated horizontally or vertically. Most people prefer horizontal orientation as these tend to be more reliable ([[horizontal versus vertical pushbuttons|read why here.]]) Microswitch pushbuttons are probably the most popular type of button used in arcades. Because of this they can be found in almost any color both opaque and transparent. They can also be found with little men icons, generally used as start buttons for the player indicated.

These buttons are sold by numerous [[vendors]]. Common suppliers are [http://www.happcontrols.com/ Happ], [http://www.ultimarc.com Ultimarc], [http://www.fxbuttons.com FX Buttons] and [http://www.groovygamegear.com GroovyGameGear.]

Installation requires a 1 1/8" hole.

==Leafswitch Pushbuttons==
{| align=right
| [[image:Leafswitch-button.jpg|thumb|80px|Leafswitch Buttons]]
| [[image:Leafswitch-holder.jpg|thumb|80px|Leafswitch Holders]]
| [[image:Leafswitch-palnuts.jpg|thumb|80px|Leafswitch Pal Nuts]]
|}
Before microswitch pushbuttons appeared, leafswitch pushbuttons were the de facto standards and are still prefered by many people today. The main advantage to leafswitches over microswitched is that they're almost completely silent. They are comprised of...
* Button
* Button holder (usually with the actual leafswitch attached)
* Pal nut
As with most types of pushbuttons, they come in two lengths; long (1 7/8") for wooden panels and short (1 5/8") for metal panels.

It is occasionally difficult to find buttons of the appropriate color and the appropriate length for a particular project. In those situations, check [http://homearcade.org/BBBB/leafsw.html Leaf Switches & Button Solutions] by [http://homearcade.org/BBBB/index.html The Real Bob Roberts] for potential solutions.

==Atari Volcano Buttons==
{| align=right
| [[Image:SirPsVolcano.jpg|right|100px]]
|
{| cellpadding=0 cellspacing=0 border=0
|[[Image:Ataributton.gif|right|52px]]
|[[Image:Volcano switch black.jpg|right|56px]]
|}
|-
| [[Image:Volcano switchs red n blk1.jpg|right|100px]]
| [[Image:Volcano switch n lens.jpg|right|100px]]
|-
| [[Image:Volcano switch lens1.jpg|right|100px]]
| [[Image:Volcano switchs red n blk2.jpg|right|100px]]
|}
Also known as cone buttons, volcano buttons are comprised of:
* Microswitch
* Lens (plunger)
* Plastic mounting clip/brace
* Plastic or aluminium cone

These were used as player start buttons in many Atari cabinets, available with illuminated red and later solid black lenses. The red button lens would blink when a player inserted a coin and remain lit during gameplay. Taller cones were used on fire buttons of Missile Command.

The actual switch used appears to be a [http://www.cherrycorp.com/english/switches/submini/db.htm Cherry DB3] sub-miniature microswitch. This switch is still available from Cherry, however the plastic mounting clip and lenses have been out of production for some time. The plastic cones were re-produced by [http://www.gamecab.com/products.asp?cat=25 Gamecab], but have been unavailable for a while now.

[http://www.ram-controls.com/order-cones.html RAM Controls] is currently a source for these cones and switches. They not only manufacture and sell the cones in various heights and finishes but they are also a supplier of [http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/wiki/Glossary NOS] switches.

[[Image:Eao 11-131.jpg|left|100px|EAO 11-131.825N switch with 11-931.2 red lens]]Charlie from Gamecab.com discovered that a company called EAO currently manufactures switch assemblies that are quite similar to the original Cherry P163 assemblies. They don't include an LED, but the neck is threaded the same as an Atari cone, so they work pretty well together. They are available from [http://www.newark.com/product-details/text/CD121/5134.html Newark In One].

Related BYOAC Forum threads: [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?board=1;action=display;threadid=11468 1] -
[http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=11123.0 2] - [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=42155.0 3] - [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=42509.0 4]

==See Also==
* [[Controls]]

[[Category:Controls]]
[[Category:Index]]

Pushbuttons

2007-06-05T21:41:03Z

Apollo:

__NOTOC__
'''Pushbuttons''' are the simplest and most common form of control consisting of a momentary switch that makes contact when pressed.

== Microswitch Pushbuttons==
[[Image:Happ-horiz-pushbutton.gif|right|thumb|120px|Microswitch Pushbutton]]
Pushbuttons come is various forms and shapes, though the most common is the Industrias Lorenzo (iL) horizontal microswitch pushbutton (aka Happ Horizontal Pushbutton). Due to the microswitch, these buttons have a 'clicky' activation that can seem a little alien to many old-school gamers. They comprise the following parts:
* Button plunger
* Button housing/bezel
* Spring
* Microswitch

The plunger top may be concave, flat or convex. The microswitch can be orientated horizontally or vertically. Most people prefer horizontal orientation as these tend to be more reliable ([[horizontal versus vertical pushbuttons|read why here.]]) Microswitch pushbuttons are probably the most popular type of button used in arcades. Because of this they can be found in almost any color both opaque and transparent. They can also be found with little men icons, generally used as start buttons for the player indicated.

These buttons are sold by numerous [[vendors]]. Common suppliers are [http://www.happcontrols.com/ Happ], [http://www.ultimarc.com Ultimarc], [http://www.fxbuttons.com FX Buttons] and [http://www.groovygamegear.com GroovyGameGear.]

Installation requires a 1 1/8" hole.

==Leafswitch Pushbuttons==
{| align=right
| [[image:Leafswitch-button.jpg|thumb|80px|Leafswitch Buttons]]
| [[image:Leafswitch-holder.jpg|thumb|80px|Leafswitch Holders]]
| [[image:Leafswitch-palnuts.jpg|thumb|80px|Leafswitch Pal Nuts]]
|}
Before microswitch pushbuttons appeared, leafswitch pushbuttons were the de facto standards and are still prefered by many people today. The main advantage to leafswitches over microswitched is that they're almost completely silent. They are comprised of...
* Button
* Button holder (usually with the actual leafswitch attached)
* Pal nut
As with most types of pushbuttons, they come in two lengths; long (1 7/8") for wooden panels and short (1 5/8") for metal panels.

It is occasionally difficult to find buttons of the appropriate color and the appropriate length for a particular project. In those situations, check [http://homearcade.org/BBBB/leafsw.html Leaf Switches & Button Solutions] by [http://homearcade.org/BBBB/index.html The Real Bob Roberts] for potential solutions.

==Atari Volcano Buttons==
{| align=right
| [[Image:SirPsVolcano.jpg|right|100px]]
|
{| cellpadding=0 cellspacing=0 border=0
|[[Image:Ataributton.gif|right|52px]]
|[[Image:Volcano switch black.jpg|right|56px]]
|}
|-
| [[Image:Volcano switchs red n blk1.jpg|right|100px]]
| [[Image:Volcano switch n lens.jpg|right|100px]]
|-
| [[Image:Volcano switch lens1.jpg|right|100px]]
| [[Image:Volcano switchs red n blk2.jpg|right|100px]]
|}
Also known as cone buttons, volcano buttons are comprised of:
* Microswitch
* Lens (plunger)
* Plastic mounting clip/brace
* Plastic or aluminium cone

These were used as player start buttons in many Atari cabinets, available with illuminated red and later solid black lenses. The red button lens would blink when a player inserted a coin and remain lit during gameplay. Taller cones were used on fire buttons of Missile Command.

The actual switch used appears to be a [http://www.cherrycorp.com/english/switches/submini/db.htm Cherry DB3] sub-miniature microswitch. This switch is still available from Cherry, however the plastic mounting clip and lenses have been out of production for some time. The plastic cones were re-produced by [http://www.gamecab.com/products.asp?cat=25 Gamecab], but have been unavailable for a while now.

[http://www.ram-controls.com/order-cones.html RAM Controls] is currently a source for these cones and switches. They not only manufacture and sell the cones in various heights and finishes but they are also a supplier of [http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/wiki/Glossary NOS] switches.

[[Image:Eao 11-131.jpg|left|100px|EAO 11-131.825N switch with 11-931.2 red lens]]Charlie from Gamecab.com discovered that a company called EAO currently manufactures switch assemblies that are quite similar to the original Cherry P163 assemblies. They don't include an LED, but the neck is threaded the same as an Atari cone, so they work pretty well together. They are available from [http://www.newark.com/product-details/text/CD121/5134.html Newark In One].

Related BYOAC Forum threads: [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?board=1;action=display;threadid=11468 1] -
[http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=11123.0 2] - [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=42155.0 3] - [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=42509.0 4]

==See Also==
* [[Controls]]

[[Category:Controls]]
[[Category:Index]]

Jukebox Software

2007-06-05T20:44:57Z

Apollo:

'''Jukebox software''' is designed to allow your PC to act and look like a jukebox. Much like [[emulators|game emulators]], there are graphical user interfaces (GUIs) to enhance this effect. Jukeboxes often require you to [[CD Ripping|rip your music]] from CDs to your PC.

Software is available for several different operating systems and may or may not be freeware. Often, if the software is freeware, a donation link is present on the homepage of the software to allow you to show your appreciation for the developer's efforts in creating software that frequently rivals and/or bests commercial software!

Jukebox software may also be "skinnable", meaning the appearance of the software may be changed by the end-user based on their preferences. This may take the form of preset skins within the software, or the ability to develop and share skins with other end-users.

Lastly, touchscreens may be utilized if the software supports it, and can be used to eliminate the need for buttons or a keyboard/mouse combination altogether.

==List of jukebox software==
Below is the jukebox software comparison table for '''Windows''' only. SilverJuke now exists to Mac, and Doscab is for DOS.

 '''''Please be aware that this may be incomplete! The individual pages will have the software's homepage for you to verify any information or questions you may have!'''''

{| Width="100%" valign="top" border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="3" style="background:white; color:black; border:1px solid silver;"
|- style="background:navy; color:white"
|'''Software'''
|'''Format1'''
|'''BYOAC2'''
|'''OS'''
|'''License3'''
|'''Skin4'''
|'''Monitor'''
|'''Media5'''
|'''Resolutions6'''
|'''Controls7'''

|- valign="top"
| [[Arcade Jukebox]]
| Singles
| Mark
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Freeware
| Basic
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| mp3
| 400x300 640x480 800x600
| Keyboard Mouse

|- valign="top"
| [[Arcade Music Box]]
| List
| Space Fractal
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Freeware
| Full
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor dualscreen icon.gif]]
| Many9 cdg radio video
| 320x240 400x300 640x480 ''ANY''
| Keyboard Joystick Spinner

|- valign="top"
| [[DAM Jukebox]]
| Singles
| DamSoft
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Freeware
| Basic
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| mp3
| 1024x768
| Keyboard

|- valign="top"
| [[Freebox]]
| Album
| Barcrest
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Freeware
| Full
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor dualscreen icon.gif]]
| mp3 m4a wma cdg video
| 800x600 1024x768 ''ANY''
| Touchscreen Mouse Keyboard

|- valign="top"
| [[MultiJuke]]
| Multi
| Space Fractal
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Freeware
| Basic
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]
| Many9 cdg
| 512x384+ ''ANY''
| Keyboard Joystick Spinner Touchscreen

|- valign="top"
| [[Nowtro Jukebox]]
| Singles
| AdamMF
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Commercial
| Standard
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| mp3
| 800x600+
| Keyboard Keypad

|- valign="top"
| [[SK Jukebox]]
| Album
| SalmonKing
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Freeware
| Basic
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| WMP video
| 800x600+
| Touchscreen Mouse Keyboard

|- valign="top"
| [[UncleT's Jukebox]]
| Album
| UncleT
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Freeware
| Advanced
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor dualscreen icon.gif]]
| WMP video/audio
| 1024x768+
| Touchscreen Mouse Keyboard

|- valign="top"
| [[Virtual Music Jukebox]]
| Album
| VMJ Team
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Commercial
| Standard
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor dualscreen icon.gif]]
| mp3 wma wmv
| 800x600 1024x768
| Touchscreen Mouse Keyboard

|- valign="top"
| [[Wincab/Doscab]]
| Both
| Chris
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]][[Image:OS DOS icon.gif]]
| Freeware
| Full
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]
| mp3 ogg mid
| Any6
| Touchscreen Mouse Keyboard Joystick

|- style="background:navy; color:white"
|'''Software'''
|'''Format1'''
|'''BYOAC2'''
|'''OS'''
|'''License3'''
|'''Skin4'''
|'''Monitor'''
|'''Media5'''
|'''Resolutions6'''
|'''Controls7'''

|- valign="top"
| [[AlbumPlayer]]
| Album
| -
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Shareware
| Standard
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]
| Many9 cdg video
| 800x480+
| Touchscreen Mouse

|- valign="top"
| [[BoxEasy]]
| Album
| -
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Shareware
| Basic
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| mp3 ogg wma m4a
| 1024x768 1280x1024
| Keyboard Mouse

|- valign="top"
| [[GlobeCOM Jukebox]]
| Album
| -
| '''Web'''10
| Freeware
| Advanced
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| mp3
| 800x600+
| Mouse

|- valign="top"
| [[Jukebox Simulator]]
| Album
| -
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Shareware
| Basic
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| mp3
| 1024x768
| Keyboard

|- valign="top"
| [[MP3 Susi]]
| Album
| -
| [[Image:OS MAC icon.gif]]
| Freeware
| None
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| mp3 ?
| ?
| Mouse

|- valign="top"
| [[Title Track]]
| Album
| -
| [[Image:OS MAC icon.gif]] [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Commercial
| None
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| mp3 wav aiff sd2
| ?
| Mouse

|- valign="top"
| [[The JukeBox'er]]
| Album
| -
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Shareware
| Advanced
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor dualscreen icon.gif]]
| wma mp3 ogg wav cda cdg radio video
| 800x600+
| Mouse

|- valign="top"
| [[Nordbeat's Jukebox]]
| Album
| -
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Shareware
| Standard
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]
| WMP AMP
| 800x600 1024x768
| Touchscreen Keyboard Mouse

|- valign="top"
| [[The PC Jukebox]]
| Album
| -
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Commercial
| Standard
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| mp3 wma wav video
| 1024x768
| Touchscreen Mouse

|- valign="top"
| [[PartyTime Jukebox]]
| Album
| -
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Freeware
| Basic
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor dualscreen icon.gif]]
| AMP
| 800x600 1024x768
| Touchscreen Keyboard

|- valign="top"
| [[Python Jukebox]]
| Album
| -
| '''Web'''10
| Open Source
| -
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| MP3 more?
| ?
| Mouse Touchscreen

|- valign="top"
| [[Silverjuke]]
| Album
| -
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]][[Image:OS MAC icon.gif]]
| Commercial
| Advanced
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| AMP
| 640x480+
| Touchscreen Mouse Keyboard

|- valign="top"
| [[Tunez]]
| Album
| -
| '''Web'''10
| Open Source
| -
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| mp3 ogg
| ?
| Mouse

|- valign="top"
| [[Touchtone]]
| -
| -
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Shareware
| Basic
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor dualscreen icon.gif]]
| AMP video
| 1024x768
| Touchscreen Mouse

|- valign="top"
| [[YoDJ]]
| Album
| -
| '''Web'''10
| Freeware
| CCS9
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| Many 10
| From 640x480+
| Mouse/Keyboard

|}

'''1) Format Orientation:'''

With type of format do the software use. This tell it Singles or album based (or both). There are some exceptions:

* Arcade Music Box use a list based screme like Mamewah, but it support both Singles and Albums formats.
* Wincab/Doscab acts best as a singles-based jukebox (it is very popular), but it also supports album as well.

'''2) Byoac Member?'''

If this software is registered and supported by a BYOAC member, the name is showed here.

'''3) License:'''
* ''Freeware:'' is fully functional without payment. A nag screen or ads are not considered a loss of functionality.
* ''Shareware:'' has limited functionality until payment is made.
* ''Commercial:'' software is fully functional for a limited time, after which payment must be made.

'''4) About skinning:'''

How can the software being skinned and changed?

{| Width="550" valign="top" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="3" style="background:white; color:black; border:1px solid silver;"
|- style="background:#333333; color:white"
|'''Grade'''
|'''Fonts'''
|'''Background'''
|'''Elements'''
|'''Resizeable'''
|'''Moveable'''
|'''Resolutions'''

|-
|'''Font Only'''
|Yes
|Fixed
|Fixed
|Fixed
|Fixed
|Fixed

|-
|'''Basic'''
|Maybe
|Yes
|Fixed
|Fixed
|Fixed
|Fixed

|-
|'''Standard'''
|Yes
|Yes
|Some
|Some
|Fixed
|Fixed

|-
|'''Advanced'''
|Yes
|Yes
|All
|Some
|Some
|Fixed

|-
|'''Full'''
|Yes
|Yes
|All
|All
|Most
|Any

|}

'''Note:'''
* '''Basic:''' Only the background may been changed or colored in some software, but not the font.
* '''Standard:''' A software may only support one "Some", not the both.
* '''Advanced:''' A software may only support one "Some", not the both.

'''5) Media:'''
* If WMP ([http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windowsmedia/default.mspx Windows Media Player]) or AMP ([http://www.winamp.com Winamp]) are listed, that jukebox software is simply a frontend for those programs and handle all formats and codecs WMP/AMP support. WMP/AMP are '''REQUIRED''' for the jukebox software to operate.
* If video and/or image is listed, the individual page will list all video or image file types supported.
* Some software may support MP3+G (a karaoke system), wich is stated as cdg (but they may need to being ripped from the cd).

'''6) Resolutions:'''
* If software has a + after the resolutions, this meams it uses an autoscaling scheme. You can show it on a higher monitor, but the skin may just be rescaled.
* If software stated with any, this mean any resolution is supported by a added skin.
* Wincab/Doscab autoscales all skins to all resolutions and orientations; skins designed specifically for very low resolutions (320x240) are included.
* Other software may look best at the stated resolution(s), even if it supports any resolution with a new skin.

'''7) Controls:'''
* Wincab/Doscab only supports touchscreens in DOS and Windows XP.

'''8) Web based skin:'''
* Some application can used as webbased software. So skins is based on css on that chase.

'''9) Many Extensions:'''
* These software support many extensions as it could listed here. So they may support 10+ extensions.
* '''Arcade Music Box''' and '''Album Player''' is based on BASS engine, and support these extensions as well.
* Bass is An external engine, [http://www.un4seen.com Bass] wich also supports a variety of extensions and is included with the software. Some software is based on it, but not all software support plugins (like '''The JukeBox'er''').

'''10) Webbased:'''
* These software is writting in a web based language, like php perl and python. because of it, it good to use with a Apache server or like that. It should of course run on all platform (a least on Windows, linux and Mac)

==See Also==
* [[Software]]

[[Category:Index]]
[[Category:Software]]

Jukebox Software

2007-06-05T20:44:18Z

Apollo:

'''Jukebox software''' is designed to allow your PC to act and appear as a jukebox. Much like [[emulators|game emulators]], there are graphical user interfaces (GUIs) to enhance this effect. Jukeboxes often require you to [[CD Ripping|rip your music]] from CDs to your PC.

Software is available for several different operating systems and may or may not be freeware. Often, if the software is freeware, a donation link is present on the homepage of the software to allow you to show your appreciation for the developer's efforts in creating software that frequently rivals and/or bests commercial software!

Jukebox software may also be "skinnable", meaning the appearance of the software may be changed by the end-user based on their preferences. This may take the form of preset skins within the software, or the ability to develop and share skins with other end-users.

Lastly, touchscreens may be utilized if the software supports it, and can be used to eliminate the need for buttons or a keyboard/mouse combination altogether.

==List of jukebox software==
Below is the jukebox software comparison table for '''Windows''' only. SilverJuke now exists to Mac, and Doscab is for DOS.

 '''''Please be aware that this may be incomplete! The individual pages will have the software's homepage for you to verify any information or questions you may have!'''''

{| Width="100%" valign="top" border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="3" style="background:white; color:black; border:1px solid silver;"
|- style="background:navy; color:white"
|'''Software'''
|'''Format1'''
|'''BYOAC2'''
|'''OS'''
|'''License3'''
|'''Skin4'''
|'''Monitor'''
|'''Media5'''
|'''Resolutions6'''
|'''Controls7'''

|- valign="top"
| [[Arcade Jukebox]]
| Singles
| Mark
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Freeware
| Basic
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| mp3
| 400x300 640x480 800x600
| Keyboard Mouse

|- valign="top"
| [[Arcade Music Box]]
| List
| Space Fractal
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Freeware
| Full
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor dualscreen icon.gif]]
| Many9 cdg radio video
| 320x240 400x300 640x480 ''ANY''
| Keyboard Joystick Spinner

|- valign="top"
| [[DAM Jukebox]]
| Singles
| DamSoft
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Freeware
| Basic
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| mp3
| 1024x768
| Keyboard

|- valign="top"
| [[Freebox]]
| Album
| Barcrest
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Freeware
| Full
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor dualscreen icon.gif]]
| mp3 m4a wma cdg video
| 800x600 1024x768 ''ANY''
| Touchscreen Mouse Keyboard

|- valign="top"
| [[MultiJuke]]
| Multi
| Space Fractal
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Freeware
| Basic
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]
| Many9 cdg
| 512x384+ ''ANY''
| Keyboard Joystick Spinner Touchscreen

|- valign="top"
| [[Nowtro Jukebox]]
| Singles
| AdamMF
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Commercial
| Standard
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| mp3
| 800x600+
| Keyboard Keypad

|- valign="top"
| [[SK Jukebox]]
| Album
| SalmonKing
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Freeware
| Basic
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| WMP video
| 800x600+
| Touchscreen Mouse Keyboard

|- valign="top"
| [[UncleT's Jukebox]]
| Album
| UncleT
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Freeware
| Advanced
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor dualscreen icon.gif]]
| WMP video/audio
| 1024x768+
| Touchscreen Mouse Keyboard

|- valign="top"
| [[Virtual Music Jukebox]]
| Album
| VMJ Team
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Commercial
| Standard
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor dualscreen icon.gif]]
| mp3 wma wmv
| 800x600 1024x768
| Touchscreen Mouse Keyboard

|- valign="top"
| [[Wincab/Doscab]]
| Both
| Chris
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]][[Image:OS DOS icon.gif]]
| Freeware
| Full
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]
| mp3 ogg mid
| Any6
| Touchscreen Mouse Keyboard Joystick

|- style="background:navy; color:white"
|'''Software'''
|'''Format1'''
|'''BYOAC2'''
|'''OS'''
|'''License3'''
|'''Skin4'''
|'''Monitor'''
|'''Media5'''
|'''Resolutions6'''
|'''Controls7'''

|- valign="top"
| [[AlbumPlayer]]
| Album
| -
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Shareware
| Standard
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]
| Many9 cdg video
| 800x480+
| Touchscreen Mouse

|- valign="top"
| [[BoxEasy]]
| Album
| -
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Shareware
| Basic
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| mp3 ogg wma m4a
| 1024x768 1280x1024
| Keyboard Mouse

|- valign="top"
| [[GlobeCOM Jukebox]]
| Album
| -
| '''Web'''10
| Freeware
| Advanced
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| mp3
| 800x600+
| Mouse

|- valign="top"
| [[Jukebox Simulator]]
| Album
| -
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Shareware
| Basic
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| mp3
| 1024x768
| Keyboard

|- valign="top"
| [[MP3 Susi]]
| Album
| -
| [[Image:OS MAC icon.gif]]
| Freeware
| None
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| mp3 ?
| ?
| Mouse

|- valign="top"
| [[Title Track]]
| Album
| -
| [[Image:OS MAC icon.gif]] [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Commercial
| None
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| mp3 wav aiff sd2
| ?
| Mouse

|- valign="top"
| [[The JukeBox'er]]
| Album
| -
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Shareware
| Advanced
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor dualscreen icon.gif]]
| wma mp3 ogg wav cda cdg radio video
| 800x600+
| Mouse

|- valign="top"
| [[Nordbeat's Jukebox]]
| Album
| -
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Shareware
| Standard
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]
| WMP AMP
| 800x600 1024x768
| Touchscreen Keyboard Mouse

|- valign="top"
| [[The PC Jukebox]]
| Album
| -
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Commercial
| Standard
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| mp3 wma wav video
| 1024x768
| Touchscreen Mouse

|- valign="top"
| [[PartyTime Jukebox]]
| Album
| -
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Freeware
| Basic
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor dualscreen icon.gif]]
| AMP
| 800x600 1024x768
| Touchscreen Keyboard

|- valign="top"
| [[Python Jukebox]]
| Album
| -
| '''Web'''10
| Open Source
| -
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| MP3 more?
| ?
| Mouse Touchscreen

|- valign="top"
| [[Silverjuke]]
| Album
| -
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]][[Image:OS MAC icon.gif]]
| Commercial
| Advanced
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| AMP
| 640x480+
| Touchscreen Mouse Keyboard

|- valign="top"
| [[Tunez]]
| Album
| -
| '''Web'''10
| Open Source
| -
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| mp3 ogg
| ?
| Mouse

|- valign="top"
| [[Touchtone]]
| -
| -
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Shareware
| Basic
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor dualscreen icon.gif]]
| AMP video
| 1024x768
| Touchscreen Mouse

|- valign="top"
| [[YoDJ]]
| Album
| -
| '''Web'''10
| Freeware
| CCS9
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| Many 10
| From 640x480+
| Mouse/Keyboard

|}

'''1) Format Orientation:'''

With type of format do the software use. This tell it Singles or album based (or both). There are some exceptions:

* Arcade Music Box use a list based screme like Mamewah, but it support both Singles and Albums formats.
* Wincab/Doscab acts best as a singles-based jukebox (it is very popular), but it also supports album as well.

'''2) Byoac Member?'''

If this software is registered and supported by a BYOAC member, the name is showed here.

'''3) License:'''
* ''Freeware:'' is fully functional without payment. A nag screen or ads are not considered a loss of functionality.
* ''Shareware:'' has limited functionality until payment is made.
* ''Commercial:'' software is fully functional for a limited time, after which payment must be made.

'''4) About skinning:'''

How can the software being skinned and changed?

{| Width="550" valign="top" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="3" style="background:white; color:black; border:1px solid silver;"
|- style="background:#333333; color:white"
|'''Grade'''
|'''Fonts'''
|'''Background'''
|'''Elements'''
|'''Resizeable'''
|'''Moveable'''
|'''Resolutions'''

|-
|'''Font Only'''
|Yes
|Fixed
|Fixed
|Fixed
|Fixed
|Fixed

|-
|'''Basic'''
|Maybe
|Yes
|Fixed
|Fixed
|Fixed
|Fixed

|-
|'''Standard'''
|Yes
|Yes
|Some
|Some
|Fixed
|Fixed

|-
|'''Advanced'''
|Yes
|Yes
|All
|Some
|Some
|Fixed

|-
|'''Full'''
|Yes
|Yes
|All
|All
|Most
|Any

|}

'''Note:'''
* '''Basic:''' Only the background may been changed or colored in some software, but not the font.
* '''Standard:''' A software may only support one "Some", not the both.
* '''Advanced:''' A software may only support one "Some", not the both.

'''5) Media:'''
* If WMP ([http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windowsmedia/default.mspx Windows Media Player]) or AMP ([http://www.winamp.com Winamp]) are listed, that jukebox software is simply a frontend for those programs and handle all formats and codecs WMP/AMP support. WMP/AMP are '''REQUIRED''' for the jukebox software to operate.
* If video and/or image is listed, the individual page will list all video or image file types supported.
* Some software may support MP3+G (a karaoke system), wich is stated as cdg (but they may need to being ripped from the cd).

'''6) Resolutions:'''
* If software has a + after the resolutions, this meams it uses an autoscaling scheme. You can show it on a higher monitor, but the skin may just be rescaled.
* If software stated with any, this mean any resolution is supported by a added skin.
* Wincab/Doscab autoscales all skins to all resolutions and orientations; skins designed specifically for very low resolutions (320x240) are included.
* Other software may look best at the stated resolution(s), even if it supports any resolution with a new skin.

'''7) Controls:'''
* Wincab/Doscab only supports touchscreens in DOS and Windows XP.

'''8) Web based skin:'''
* Some application can used as webbased software. So skins is based on css on that chase.

'''9) Many Extensions:'''
* These software support many extensions as it could listed here. So they may support 10+ extensions.
* '''Arcade Music Box''' and '''Album Player''' is based on BASS engine, and support these extensions as well.
* Bass is An external engine, [http://www.un4seen.com Bass] wich also supports a variety of extensions and is included with the software. Some software is based on it, but not all software support plugins (like '''The JukeBox'er''').

'''10) Webbased:'''
* These software is writting in a web based language, like php perl and python. because of it, it good to use with a Apache server or like that. It should of course run on all platform (a least on Windows, linux and Mac)

==See Also==
* [[Software]]

[[Category:Index]]
[[Category:Software]]

Basic Guide to Building a Cabinet

2007-06-04T00:11:58Z

Apollo: /* Things to consider first */

__NOTOC__So you want to build yourself an arcade cabinet? Here is a basic guide to get you started. Some things mentioned here may seem a little daunting at first but if you take your time, do your research and ask the right questions you will discover that you too can build your dream arcade machine. Good preparation, including taking the time to read and research as much as possible can save you a lot of time and money as you get further into your project.
If you have questions feel free to ask in the Build Your Own Arcade Controls [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/ forums].

==Things to consider first==
You don't want to rush out and just buy yourself a few pieces of [[Wood_products|wood]], fire up your [[Power Tools|power tools]] and start cutting! First things first:
* '''What kind of cabinet do you want?'''
:Cabinets come in all shapes and sizes (see ''[[Arcade Cabinet]]''). A [[Cabinet Plans|list of sample plans]] is available via this wiki. There are also [[Vendors]] who sell full cabinet kits.
:If you want to design your own cabinet, take a look [http://arcadecontrols.com/arcade_cabinet_plans.shtml#dimensions here]. Some things to keep in mind when figuring out your dimensions are:
::#How tall are you? You don't want to end playing your favourite game with a control panel you can't reach comfortably and you don't want to be staring at a screen that is too low or too high for you either.
::#The size of the monitor. If you want to put in a 36" screen, make sure it fits.
::#The size of your control panel. If you want to have a lot of different controls on the control panel but you made it only 15" wide, you are probably going to run out of space.
:Instead of building your own cabinet, you may also choose to restore or convert an existing cabinet. See also [[notes on converting a cabinet]].
:Whatever you decide, one very important thing to consider before ANYTHING is done, is ''how wide are your doorways?'' If you can't get it to the location you have planned, all your work will be for naught!

*'''What do I use to run the software?'''
:Do you plan to use a PC and run [[Emulators]]? If so, does the PC fit in the cabinet you designed? Do you plan to wire a [[JAMMA]] board? Are you planning on using console games?

*'''What controls are you going to want on your cabinet?'''
:What kind of games do you want to play? Take note of what controls those games use. How many players? The [[control panel]] needs more space if you want a 4 player cabinet. Generally, if you want to play fighter games, you will need 6 buttons per player. If you want a 4 player cabinet, keep in mind that there aren't any non-console games that support more than 4 buttons for player 3 and 4. Take a look at the [[Controls]] section for more info on [[joysticks]], [[trackballs]], [[spinners]], etc. It is also possible to buy ready made control panels. See the [[vendors]] page on where to get these items.
:It is also a wise idea when it comes to control panel design to 'test fit' your controls using a piece of cardboard, cheap wood, or a piece of ridgid insulation. Your layout might look good on paper (or in your [[Technical_design_software|design software]]), but nothing beats testing to make sure everything is to your satisfaction prior to making your final model.

*'''How to interface the controls?'''
:Once you have decided what controls you want, how do those controls connect to the PC? See the [[Controls|interfacing controls with your PC]] section for various options. Things to keep in mind when selecting an interface board, are the number of available connections and the amount of controls you plan to use.

*'''What type of display device do you want to use?'''
:There are various options, ranging from [[Televisions]], [[PC Monitors]] and even real [[Arcade Monitors]]. Keep in mind that these have different connections and might need a special [[Video Cards|videocard]]. Also an arcade monitor is mounted diffently in a cabinet than a television (which might sit on a shelf in your cab).

*'''What about artwork?'''
:[[Contents#Arcade_Art|Artwork]] can make your cabinet stand out and look authentic or personalized. What art are you going to use and what size do the images need to be? Do you want art on your [[Control panel]]?

*'''Any extras?'''
:How do you want to control your emulator software? Do you want special administration buttons on your control panel (or hidden elsewhere on your cabinet?). Do you want to add a drawer to have access to your PC's keyboard? Perhaps add a [[Coin Doors|coin door]] or have 'insert coin' buttons? Do you want speakers with volume control? Any special lighting such as lighted buttons or a marquee?

==Building the cabinet==
Once you settled on your cabinet's design, it is time to start the hard dirty work. Your arcade experience is basically two parts. The cabinet itself and the computer that runs it. The [[Examples]] and [[Building]] portals will give you two great places to start when creating your cabinet. Many of the example links have step by step instructions and pictures, while the Building portal has information on materials and tools.

==Building the guts==
Once the cabinet is built, you can install the controls into your [[Control panel]] and wire everything up. The [[Controls]] portal has a list of various types of arcade controls and control interfaces that will make it easier to select and wire up your control panel.

==Setting up the computer==
The [[Software]] portal provides a staring point for getting various arcade emulators up and running on your cabinet. It is probably a good idea to get your emulators installed before you move your PC into the cabinet. While a cabinet is great for playing arcade games, it is not a very confortable working spot to fix your software's settings. If you have more computers in your home, you might want to consider hooking the arcade cabinet computer into a home network. This allows you to update files from another PC or even control the computer using a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Terminal_Services remote desktop client tool].

==See Also==
* [[Examples]]
* [[Building]]
* [[Controls]]
* [[Finishing]]

==External Links==
* [http://users.adelphia.net/~seanhat/arcade/ LuSiD's Arcade Flashback] Many DIY cabinets have been based on this guide.
* [http://minimame.com/downloads.asp MiniMame PDF plans] An excellent printable guide. The document describes a scaled down version of an arcade cabinet, the used techniques are usable in full scale projects as well.
[[Category:Basics]]
[[Category:Index]]

Basic Guide to Building a Cabinet

2007-06-04T00:00:06Z

Apollo:

__NOTOC__So you want to build yourself an arcade cabinet? Here is a basic guide to get you started. Some things mentioned here may seem a little daunting at first but if you take your time, do your research and ask the right questions you will discover that you too can build your dream arcade machine. Good preparation, including taking the time to read and research as much as possible can save you a lot of time and money as you get further into your project.
If you have questions feel free to ask in the Build Your Own Arcade Controls [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/ forums].

==Things to consider first==
You don't want to rush out and just buy yourself a few pieces of [[Wood_products|wood]], fire up your [[Power Tools|power tools]] and start cutting! First things first:
* '''What kind of cabinet do you want?'''
:Cabinets come in all shapes and sizes (see ''[[Arcade Cabinet]]''). A [[Cabinet Plans|list of sample plans]] is available via this wiki. There are also [[Vendors]] who sell full cabinet kits.
:If you want to design your own cabinet, take a look [http://arcadecontrols.com/arcade_cabinet_plans.shtml#dimensions here]. Some things to keep in mind when figuring out your dimensions are:
::#How tall you are. You don't want to end up with a control panel you can't reach conmortably or look at a screen that is too low for your comfort.
::#The size of the monitor. If you want to put in a 36" screen, make sure it fits.
::#The size of your control panel. If you want to have a gazillion controls on it, but you made it only 10" wide you are probably going to run out of space.
:Instead of building your own cabinet, you may also choose to restore or convert an existing cabinet. See also [[notes on converting a cabinet]].
:Whatever you decide, one very important thing to consider before ANYTHING is done, is ''how wide are your doorways?'' If you can't get it to the location you have planned, all your work will be for naught!

*'''What do I use to run the software?'''
:Do you plan to use a PC and run [[Emulators]]? If so, does the PC fit in the cabinet you designed? Do you plan to wire a [[JAMMA]] board? Are you planning on using console games?

*'''What controls are you going to want on your cabinet?'''
:What kind of games do you want to play? Take note of what controls those games use. How many players? The [[control panel]] needs more space if you want a 4 player cabinet. Generally, if you want to play fighter games, you will need 6 buttons per player. If you want a 4 player cabinet, keep in mind that there aren't any non-console games that support more than 4 buttons for player 3 and 4. Take a look at the [[Controls]] section for more info on [[joysticks]], [[trackballs]], [[spinners]], etc. It is also possible to buy ready made control panels. See the [[vendors]] page on where to get these items.
:It is also a wise idea when it comes to control panel design to 'test fit' your controls using a piece of cardboard, cheap wood, or a piece of ridgid insulation. Your layout might look good on paper (or in your [[Technical_design_software|design software]]), but nothing beats testing to make sure everything is to your satisfaction prior to making your final model.

*'''How to interface the controls?'''
:Once you have decided what controls you want, how do those controls connect to the PC? See the [[Controls|interfacing controls with your PC]] section for various options. Things to keep in mind when selecting an interface board, are the number of available connections and the amount of controls you plan to use.

*'''What type of display device do you want to use?'''
:There are various options, ranging from [[Televisions]], [[PC Monitors]] and even real [[Arcade Monitors]]. Keep in mind that these have different connections and might need a special [[Video Cards|videocard]]. Also an arcade monitor is mounted diffently in a cabinet than a television (which might sit on a shelf in your cab).

*'''What about artwork?'''
:[[Contents#Arcade_Art|Artwork]] can make your cabinet stand out and look authentic or personalized. What art are you going to use and what size do the images need to be? Do you want art on your [[Control panel]]?

*'''Any extras?'''
:How do you want to control your emulator software? Do you want special administration buttons on your control panel (or hidden elsewhere on your cabinet?). Do you want to add a drawer to have access to your PC's keyboard? Perhaps add a [[Coin Doors|coin door]] or have 'insert coin' buttons? Do you want speakers with volume control? Any special lighting such as lighted buttons or a marquee?

==Building the cabinet==
Once you settled on your cabinet's design, it is time to start the hard dirty work. Your arcade experience is basically two parts. The cabinet itself and the computer that runs it. The [[Examples]] and [[Building]] portals will give you two great places to start when creating your cabinet. Many of the example links have step by step instructions and pictures, while the Building portal has information on materials and tools.

==Building the guts==
Once the cabinet is built, you can install the controls into your [[Control panel]] and wire everything up. The [[Controls]] portal has a list of various types of arcade controls and control interfaces that will make it easier to select and wire up your control panel.

==Setting up the computer==
The [[Software]] portal provides a staring point for getting various arcade emulators up and running on your cabinet. It is probably a good idea to get your emulators installed before you move your PC into the cabinet. While a cabinet is great for playing arcade games, it is not a very confortable working spot to fix your software's settings. If you have more computers in your home, you might want to consider hooking the arcade cabinet computer into a home network. This allows you to update files from another PC or even control the computer using a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Terminal_Services remote desktop client tool].

==See Also==
* [[Examples]]
* [[Building]]
* [[Controls]]
* [[Finishing]]

==External Links==
* [http://users.adelphia.net/~seanhat/arcade/ LuSiD's Arcade Flashback] Many DIY cabinets have been based on this guide.
* [http://minimame.com/downloads.asp MiniMame PDF plans] An excellent printable guide. The document describes a scaled down version of an arcade cabinet, the used techniques are usable in full scale projects as well.
[[Category:Basics]]
[[Category:Index]]

Basics

2007-06-03T23:51:55Z

Apollo: /* Basic Arcade Cabinet Information */

{{Portal|name=Basics}}
BYOAC is all about building arcade cabinets and controls to capture that arcade feeling at home. A lot of people will look at an arcade cabinet and say "Hey, that looks easy- it's just a screen, some wood and some buttons.", but arcade cabinets aren't quite as simple as many people think. Here's a good place to start learning about the various ins and outs of arcade machines in general.

==Basic Arcade Cabinet Information==
* [[Arcade Cabinet]]
** [[Marquee]]
** [[Control panel]]
** [[Bezel]]
** [[Coin Doors|Coin door]]
* [[Basic guide to build a cabinet]]
* [[Notes_on_converting_a_cabinet|Converting a Cabinet]]
* [[Restoration|Restoring an Old Cabinet]]
* [[Connecting a PC to an Arcade Cabinet|Connecting a PC to an Arcade Cabinet (an overview)]]
* [[Glossary]]

==Additional Cabinet Types==
* [[Desktop control panel|No space for a full cab? Try a desktop control panel]]
* [[Bemani or DDR arcade|The Bemani/Dance arcade experience]]
* [[JAMMA]]

==See Also==
* [[:Category:Index|Site Index]]
* [[Building]]
* [[Controls]]
* [[Software]]
* [[Examples]]

[[Category:Portals]]
[[Category:Index]]
[[Category:Basics]]

Basics

2007-06-03T23:51:32Z

Apollo: /* Basic Arcade Cabinet Information */

{{Portal|name=Basics}}
BYOAC is all about building arcade cabinets and controls to capture that arcade feeling at home. A lot of people will look at an arcade cabinet and say "Hey, that looks easy- it's just a screen, some wood and some buttons.", but arcade cabinets aren't quite as simple as many people think. Here's a good place to start learning about the various ins and outs of arcade machines in general.

==Basic Arcade Cabinet Information==
* [[Arcade Cabinet]]
** [[Marquee]]
** [[Control panel]]
** [[Bezel]]
** [[Coin Doors|Coin door]]
* [[Basic guide to building a cabinet]]
* [[Notes_on_converting_a_cabinet|Converting a Cabinet]]
* [[Restoration|Restoring an Old Cabinet]]
* [[Connecting a PC to an Arcade Cabinet|Connecting a PC to an Arcade Cabinet (an overview)]]
* [[Glossary]]

==Additional Cabinet Types==
* [[Desktop control panel|No space for a full cab? Try a desktop control panel]]
* [[Bemani or DDR arcade|The Bemani/Dance arcade experience]]
* [[JAMMA]]

==See Also==
* [[:Category:Index|Site Index]]
* [[Building]]
* [[Controls]]
* [[Software]]
* [[Examples]]

[[Category:Portals]]
[[Category:Index]]
[[Category:Basics]]

Coin Doors

2007-06-03T23:50:49Z

Apollo:

{{Cleanup}}
A '''coin door''' can be added to your arcade cabinet purely as a decoration, or for functionality.

It is posslble to wire up a coin door with switches and interface them to a keyboard encoder. The encoder sends a signal that corresponds to the "credit" command. This allows a coin to act as it would in a real machine. Most coin doors have the same type of switch as a normal arcade button which makes it simple to wire it up to your encoder.

You can also wire up the lights on your coin door by taking 5V or 12V power from your PC and running it to the light bulbs on the door. Additionally, many people modify coin doors to use LEDs instead of incandescent bulbs. The reason for this is the available colors and longevity. LEDs will last a hundred times longer than incandescent bulbs. Many people utilize 5V or 12V LEDs with resistors and connect the LEDs bulbs to the PC Molex Connector. Ensure the voltage on the positive side of the Molex connector matches the voltage of your LED or incandescent bulb.

==Coin Counters==
Coin Counters can be easily wired between a single coin acceptor. Simply wire Ground on your [[Pushbuttons#Microswitch_Pushbuttons | microswitch]] to the 5V line on your counter. Then wire the Ground on your Counter to your [[Encoders | encoder]] ground.

Alternatively to wire up '''all''' your coin acceptors/buttons you'll need to put diodes between your [[Encoders | encoder]] and each [[Pushbuttons#Microswitch_Pushbuttons | microswitch]]. A diagram on how to wire a coin counter at [http://free.hostdepartment.com/T/Thenasty/byo.htm TheNasty's website].

==See Also==
* [[Basics]]
* [[Finishing]]

[[Category:Basics]]
[[Category:Index]]
[[Category:Finishing]]

==References==

* [[http://www.retroblast.com/articles/coindoor.html]]

Coin Doors

2007-06-03T23:49:57Z

Apollo:

{{Cleanup}}
A '''coin door''' can be added to your arcade cabinet purely as a decoration, or for functionality.

It is posslble to wire up a coin door with switches and interface them to a keyboard encoder. The encoder sends a signal that corresponds to the "credit" command. This allows a coin to act as it would in a real machine. Most coin doors have the same type of switch as a normal arcade button which makes it simple to wire it up to your encoder.

You can also wire up the lights on your coin door by taking 5V or 12V power from your PC and running it to the light bulbs on the door. Additionally, many people modify coin doors to use LEDs instead of incandescent bulbs. The reason for this is the available colors and longetivity. LEDs will last a hundred times longer than incandescent bulbs. Many people utilize 5V or 12V LEDs with resistors and connect the LEDs bulbs to the PC Molex Connector. Ensure the voltage on the positive side of the Molex connector matches the voltage of your LED or Incandescent bulb.

==Coin Counters==
Coin Counters can be easily wired between a single coin acceptor. Simply wire Ground on your [[Pushbuttons#Microswitch_Pushbuttons | microswitch]] to the 5V line on your counter. Then wire the Ground on your Counter to your [[Encoders | encoder]] ground.

Alternatively to wire up '''all''' your coin acceptors/buttons you'll need to put diodes between your [[Encoders | encoder]] and each [[Pushbuttons#Microswitch_Pushbuttons | microswitch]]. A diagram on how to wire a coin counter at [http://free.hostdepartment.com/T/Thenasty/byo.htm TheNasty's website].

==See Also==
* [[Basics]]
* [[Finishing]]

[[Category:Basics]]
[[Category:Index]]
[[Category:Finishing]]

==References==

* [[http://www.retroblast.com/articles/coindoor.html]]

Bezel

2007-06-03T23:48:32Z

Apollo:

[[Image:Cabinet1.jpg|right]]The area around the screen is called a '''bezel'''. The bezel is basically a picture frame for the monitor and hides some of the internal components of the cabinet. The bezel is usually made from heavy duty black plastic but may also constructed from cardboard, hardboard or other similar materials. Artistically the bezel can be used to display instructions (how to play the game or how to score points) or it can be used to continue the theme of the cabinet. You can see the monitor bezel in the picture on the right.

==See also==
* [[Basics]]
* [[Marquee]]
* [[Sideart]]
* [[Control panel]]

[[Category:Basics]]
[[Category:Index]]