BYOAC OLD Wiki - User contributions [en]

PC Monitors

2010-05-14T07:10:29Z

Blanka: updated the input-lag section with more contemporary information

A PC monitor is the simplest and most direct route to setting up a display for your arcade machine. PC monitors provide ok quality, are relatively inexpensive and are very simple to set up. As opposed to a television or authentic arcade monitor all that is required to display games on a PC monitor is to attach the monitor to your PCs VGA connector.

One negative to consider if you are thinking of using a PC monitor in your arcade machine is that games may tend to look slightly "pixelated" (blocky looking) due to the high resolutions that modern PC monitors run at. Enabling scan-lines (black lines across the screen) can make the quality better but it still does not compare to the quality that can be achieved with a television or better yet, an arcade monitor.

It is important to note that original arcade machines were run at quite a few different resolutions and some of these resolutions will look better than others on a PC monitor. A simple PC monitor connection will never be able to give you a truly "authentic" arcade look due to these resolution issues but software tweaks and resolution adjustments can create an acceptable picture.

Fans of Vector arcade games should consider the following fact when considering PC monitors: The higher resolutions available on PC monitors create what many consider a better picture when emulating vector graphics (compared to TVs or standard arcade monitors). This is because the higher resolution (generally SXGA and higher, though XGA will do, even on a 27" CRT) makes for much smoother graphics (lines) and greater anti-aliasing. (The latter is in regard to an object or line in motion, and how continuous it appears. On raster-type monitors, due to how they draw, there is usually a perceptible watery effect.) With the high prices of Vector monitors and the Zektor Vector Generator [http://www.zektor.com/zvg/ ZVG Homepage], a PC monitor could create an inexpensive alternative to a vector machine for those willing to sacrifice a bit of authenticity for lower cost.

When you want to use a LCD monitor for your arcade, you need to think of even more things. Where a CRT monitor is multisync, it can adjust to many resolutions quite easily, with optimum scaling quality. An LCD on the other hand has a fixed resolution. Other resolutions than the native one are scaled up with anti-aliasing. Check if you like the results first. You are also limited to refresh rates. A CRT can show any refresh rate from 50-100 Hz exactly as intended. LCD screens mostly have a fixed refresh of 60Hz. A 50Hz game can look jerky when displayed on a 60 Hz LCD.

Second problem with an LCD can be the aspect ratio. Most arcades used to have 4:3 screens, wide or portrait. The biggest LCD monitor available in 4:3 aspect ratio is a 21.3 inch screen. Good thing is that these 21.3 inch screen are all high quality S-IPS or S-PVA screens with pivot options. If you want bigger, it means you have to accept the 16:10 aspect ratio. Do not try to find a big 4:3 LCD TV. They do not exist. 21 inch is the bigest 4:3 LCD TV available. These 21 inches are all low resolution 640x480 or 800x600 screens based on TN-panels with bad viewing angles and bad blacks.

Third problem is signal processing. LCD monitors sometimes make calculations between 2 or 3 frames to eliminate ghosting or to simulate more colours (TN panels are 18-bit displays by nature). This creates a so called input-lag. Check reviews to get an insight in real world numbers, but as a guide you can use this list:

TN-panels
- cheapest
- no ghosting
- bad vertical viewing angles and mediocre horizontal viewing angles (light tint clipping or reversing, solarising effect, gamma unstable)
- watch out for input lag on big TN panels (>23 inch) as PWM high-colour simulation creates lag.
- watch out for TV-models, as tuners can add serious lag
- all in standard sRGB gamut
- static contrast 1:800-1:1000

IPS-panels
- double price
- great viewing angles (best)
- little white-glow on extreme angles (black becomes lighter), but gamma curve stays nice
- in big sizes FASTER than TN (the fastest and best large game screen was an IPS display!)
- available in wide-gamut (more saturated colours)
- suitable for vertical mount
- static contrast 1:800-1:1000
- budget IPS is available now, for example the DELL 2209W

PVA-panels
- double price
- great viewing angles (slightly less stable than IPS)
- little yellow-shift on white at extreme angles, gamma stays nice
- worst input lag (2-3 frames) for monitors, still better than some TN-panel TV's
- deepest blacks. 1:1200-1:2400 static contrast (Samsung F2380M is current contrast king)
- suitable for vertical mount
- available in wide-gamut (more saturated colours)
- budget S-PVA is available now, for example the Samsung F2380M.

==See Also==
* [[Video]]

[[Category:Video]]

Talk:Front-Ends

2008-10-29T21:10:37Z

Blanka:

* [[Talk:Front-Ends/Archived|Archived discussion]]

----

I didn't like the "Other Features" descriptions. It should use icons, because ABCDE is not rememable.
::Just create logos for the "Other Features" and edit!

Please see the discussion thread [[Talk:Jukebox_Software]] about -ware in the jukebox software, why "freeware" "shareware" and "Commercial" is choosen.

This one started the discussion about using the table with is lots better then the bunch of text.

----

I don't like the "Skinnable" category. I'm going to change it to "Skinning Features". The reason is that some FEs under the "Full" skinnable category really have more skinnable features than others. For example, although the game list in Kymaera can be resized, it still is always drawn as a straight up and down list of text. Plus, I don't think it can use marquee images instead of text. On the other hand, I believe Atomic can do those things, except the skins are not human readable (GRRRR!)

--[[User:Buddabing|Buddabing]] 09:26, 6 September 2006 (EDT)

You right.

If you look on the jukebox section, I have added servial more skin features), wich is a bit more precision. I guess the useing the table and minor changes should suit the skinning feature better. It up to you, what you would doing.

If there are some speciel thing about skinning, you can allways use the indepth page.

--[[User:Spacefractal|Spacefractal]] 11:51, 6 September 2006 (EDT)

I've compiled the following skin-related questions which hopefully can be answered for each front end with a chart.

* Can a selectable solid color be displayed as the background?
* Can a changeable image be displayed as the background?
*Can a looping movie be displayed as the background?
* Can skin elements such as marquees, cabinet images, and control panels be added to the skin?
* Are skin elements resizable?
* Are skin elements moveable?
* Is the game list font changeable?
* Can font effects such as bold, italic, shadowing be applied to the game list font?
* Can game list entries be individually moved around and resized?

Only for a few front ends will we be able to answer "yes" to all questions. Movies would being added as the option, if you ask me.

--[[User:Buddabing|Buddabing]] 12:18, 6 September 2006 (EDT)

{| Width="550" valign="top" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="3" style="background:white; color:black; border:1px solid silver;"
|- style="background:#333333; color:white"
|'''Grade'''
|'''Font Styles'''
|'''Background'''
|'''Entries'''
|'''Elements'''
|'''Resoulutions'''

|-
|'''Font Only'''
|Yes
|Fixed
|Fixed
|Fixed
|Fixed

|-
|'''Basic'''
|Maybe
|Yes
|Fixed
|Fixed
|Fixed

|-
|'''Standard'''
|Yes
|Yes
|Some
|Some
|Fixed

|-
|'''Advanced'''
|Yes
|Yes
|All
|Some
|Some

|-
|'''Full'''
|Yes
|Yes
|All
|Most
|Any
|}

Do I have missed some thing?

The above table should meet most thing, you asked. If some frontend have some thing speciel, it can allways destription in the indepth page or using some foot note.

I do guess a picture previes like marquees is not a skin question, but more than "Other Featuers" one. It nothing about skinning to due.

--[[User:Spacefractal|Spacefractal]] 16:59, 6 September 2006 (EDT)

Maybe the skin column should even removed completly? And instead move it to "Other Features". A chart would used a lots with the "Other Features" as well.

Most frontend seen to use "full" skinning, wich doen´ts destription how it act with that. It maybe better to use a chart, with your quastion in thier own page.

Instead it canr renamed to "gui style" with present with style of gui it use:

* List only
* Picture based
* Window GUI
* Full 3D

Or something like this (only a breif example)? Your ideas?

--[[User:Spacefractal|Spacefractal]] 18:05, 6 September 2006 (EDT)

----

Maybe having two tables is better like you suggest, one for front end features and one for skinning features.

The problem is that a lot of skinning features are unknown because the front ends does not have a good skinning application.

I would prefer not to have a "gui style" column, rather I would prefer the skinning column to be removed entirely.

{| Width="550" valign="top" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="3" style="background:white; color:black; border:1px solid silver;"
|- style="background:#333333; color:white"
|'''Front End'''
|'''Font Styles'''
|'''Background'''
|'''Game List Split or One List'''
|'''Skin Elements'''

|-
|'''Atomic FE'''
|Face/Size
|Color/Picture/Animation
|One List
|Selectable/Resizeable

|-
|'''MameWah'''
|Face/Size
|Picture only
|One List
|Selectable/Resizeable

|-
|'''Dragon King'''
|Face/Size
|Picture/Animation
|Split
|Selectable/Resizeable

|-
|'''Kymaera'''
|Face/Size/Bold/Italic/Underline/Shadow
|Color/Picture/Animation
|One List
|Selectable/Resizeable

|-
|'''MaLa'''
|Face/Size
|Color/Picture/Animation
|One List
|Selectable/Resizeable
|}

These table entries are not necessarily accurate.

--[[User:Buddabing|Buddabing]]

Let remove the skintab completly and let it add into the features as a "Other Features" Instead. These codes can being used:

* SKF: This frontend can being skinned with a '''full skinning tool'''.
* SKN: This frontend can being skinned, but it have '''not have a skin tool''' included.

--[[User:Spacefractal|Spacefractal]] 06:25, 9 September 2006 (EDT)

Change the page, since I didden't hear from you, but comment it of course. What do you think? The "Other Features" should have thier own page with a chart over all features.

Since I use ST (Skin Tool) and SWT (Skin without tool) is best to tell, a user simply can change the skin in the fly or a easy way (without hassle with the ini or other inhuman things). A frontend can been harder to skin rather than a jukebox software....

--[[User:Spacefractal|Spacefractal]] 17:39, 12 September 2006 (EDT)

SF, I disagree somewhat with your last edit, I think Nagware and Shareware are slightly different. For Nagware, the free version of the software has the exact feature list as the registered (paid) version, excepting only that there is a nag screen or advertisements. For Shareware, the registered version can have additional features (like GameEx does).

So, if GameEx had no extra features in the registered version, it would be nagware instead of shareware.

Currently, I don't think any frontends meet the nagware category, but that doesn't mean it should be removed.

[[User:Buddabing|Buddabing]] 20:16, 17 December 2006 (EST)

Because You changed GameEX to shareware, there are no more nagware shown on the list. So why add it, when no nagware was shown? It was just waste of space.

This is just only why I merged it into shareware (since gameEx actuelly have '''both''' cripped and have a very annoring nag ever seen, wich I never could past trouch. You are simply forced to pay it. I hear it to rougly minuttes to past it, but I diddent take the time on that one.

--[[User:Spacefractal|Spacefractal]] 05:01, 18 December 2006 (EST)

Maybe we can add an "OLD" "OS" or "OLDOS" tag which says the machine can run under an old version of Windows, say Windows 98, or on a PC with very low processor speed or memory? Some users run their MAME cabs on an older PC and this may be useful.

--[[User:Cakemeister|Cakemeister]] 08:17, 23 January 2008 (EST)

Ultrastyle is both a frontend and a project?

SF's edit broke the link to the Ultrastyle frontend's wiki entry.

--[[User:Cakemeister|Cakemeister]] 20:45, 21 June 2008 (EDT)

Yes, I found out, they have nothing to due with toghether and hence it need to create a new indepth page. They just share the page.

Either UltraMame cab need to been renamed to UltraMame (Cab), or changing this link to the link I created. What do you think?

But I need more info about UltraMame before I created that page (but was going to bed here, it was very late). Hence I changed the link. The FE url is still exists and is on:
http://www.mameworld.net/ultrastyle/

--[[User:Spacefractal|Spacefractal]] 05:33, 22 June 2008 (EDT)

About your entry from 2006, it can just add a OLD or such that as a "other features". Which is a good idea. Sorry I never saw that.

--[[User:Spacefractal|Spacefractal]] 05:35, 22 June 2008 (EDT)

UltraMAME is a cab and a front end and Ultrastyle is just a front end. Since the front end came before the cab, the cab's wiki page should be something else, like UltraMAME (Cab). I would leave the UltraMAME front end wiki page as plain UltraMAME because it was there first.

--[[User:Cakemeister|Cakemeister]] 20:40, 22 June 2008 (EDT)

oops. Something went wrong. For some reason I got UltraMame frontend removed. I add that back very soon. I move the pages. UltraStyle FE is state as delation (because it just point to UltraStyle as it should.

--[[User:Spacefractal|Spacefractal]] 02:10, 23 June 2008 (EDT)

I think I got it now? Diddent know why I got UltraMame deleted? Anyway '''[[UltraMame]]''' is now the FE page and '''[[UltraMAME]]''' the project page. UltraMame is still in development.

--[[User:Spacefractal|Spacefractal]] 02:23, 23 June 2008 (EDT)

EmuLaunch works good in a cab, so I don't know why it is under MOUSE frontends. It could work better though. Support for the second player joystick and having all keys to work as activation key would be nice. Now you have to do everything with joystick 1 and button 3.
--[[User:Blanka|Blanka]] 02:23, 29 Oktober 2008 (EDT)

Front-Ends

2008-10-29T21:07:26Z

Blanka: /* Front-end Software */

== Front-end Software ==
Below is the front-end software comparison table. Click on the software's name for detailed information about that software. Please be aware that this may be incomplete! The individual pages will have the software's homepage for you to verify any information or questions you may have!

''Note: Any unknown information in the table is filled with placeholders (placeholders are shown in italics).''
''Note: To be listed as Cabinet friendly, it needs to be able to be used with joysticks and buttons only (CAB).'''

{| Width="100%" valign="top" border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="3" style="background:white; color:black; border:1px solid silver;"
|- style="background:navy; color:white"
| '''Software'''
| '''BYOAC User'''
| '''OS'''
| '''Type1'''
| '''Monitor Orientation'''
| '''Emulators3'''
| '''Other Features4'''

|- style="background:gray; color:white"
|colspan="7"|'''<center>Typical recommended frontends by BYOAC users:</center>'''

|-
| [[AtomicFE]]
| Youki
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Freeware
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]
| CMD PC
| CAB JB LED LR MR ST VID

|-
| [[GameEx]]
| TSpeirs
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Shareware ($25)
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]
| CMD PC
| CAB JB LCD LED LR MR ST SW VID TOU

|-
| [[MaLa]]
| Loadman (previously Swindus)
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Freeware
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]
| CMD PC
| CAB JB LCD LED LR MR ST SW VID

|-
| [[Mamewah]]
| Minwah
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Freeware
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| CMD PC
| CAB LR MR ST VID

|-
| [[Maximus Arcade]]
| %
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Shareware ($25)
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]
| 39+ arcade and console emulators
| CAB JB LED MR ST VID

|- style="background:gray; color:white"
|colspan="7"|'''<center>Recommended for Linux (both active and discounted):</center>'''

|-
| [[AdvanceMenu]]
| %
| [[Image:OS linux icon.gif]][[Image:OS windows icon.gif]][[Image:OS DOS icon.gif]]
| Open Source
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]
| CMD
| AM CAB LR MR VID

|-
| [[Wah!Cade]]
| Balki
| [[Image:OS linux icon.gif]]
| Open Source
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| CMD
| DEV CAB LR MR ST VID

|- style="background:gray; color:white"
|colspan="7"|'''<center>Other cabinet friendly frontends:</center>'''

|-
| [[Emulaxian/3D Arcade]]
| )p(
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Freeware
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]
| CMD
| CAB MR SW

|-
| [[Fronty]]
| FrontyDev
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Freeware
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]
| CMD PC
| CAB DEV LCD MR ST

|-
| [[HyperSpin]]
| BadBoyBill
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Freeware
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| CMD PC
| CAB DEV LR MR ST SW VID

|-
| [[Khameleon]]
| Cakemeister
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Open Source
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| CMD
| CAB DEV LR MR SW VID

|-
| [[MAMELOAD TNG]]
| Tafoid
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Freeware
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]
| CMD (MAME-BASED, Including MESS), M1, Final Burn Alpha
| CAB DEV MR SW

|-
| [[MultiFE]]
| Space Fractal
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Freeware
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]
| Mame & PC Games
| CAB TOU MR JB DEV

|-
| [[UltraMame]]
| r.cade
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Open Source
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| MAME only
| CAB DEV MR VID

|- style="background:gray; color:white"
|colspan="7"|'''<center>Mouse based frontends:</center>'''

|-
| [[EmuLaunch]]
| %
| [[Image:OS_apple_icon.gif]]
| Freeware for personal use
| Emulator dependent
| Uses Finder to open ROMS in 15 arcade and console emulators
| CAB SW

|-
| [[MAME32]]
| %
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Freeware
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| MAME only
| DEV MR

|- style="background:gray; color:white"
|colspan="7"|'''<center>Discontinued and/or unsupported frontends5:</center>'''

|-
| [[ArcadeOS]]
| %
| [[Image:OS DOS icon.gif]]
| Open Source
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]
| CMD
| AM CAB LCD LR MR

|-
| [[ArcadEpic]]
| chowny
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Freeware
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| CMD
| CAB JB MR VID

|-
| [[Dragon King]]
| Howard_Casto
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Freeware
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| CMD
| CAB LR MR SW VID

|-
| [[GameLauncher]]
| Dave Dribin
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]][[Image:OS DOS icon.gif]]
| Open Source
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]
| CMD
| CAB LR MR

|-
| [[Kymaera]]
| PacManFan
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]][[Image:OS DOS icon.gif]]
| Open Source
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]
| CMD
| AM CAB LR MR ST SW VID

|-
| [[Ultrastyle]]
| ultrastyle
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Open Source
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| MAME only
| CAB MR SW VID

|- style="background:gray; color:white"
|colspan="7"|'''<center>Frontends with missing "other features" tab:</center>'''

|-
| [[CabFE]]
| %
| [[Image:OS linux icon.gif]]
| Open Source
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| CMD
| ''Placeholder''

|-
| [[PyreCade]]
| flemming
| [[Image:OS linux icon.gif]][[Image:OS windows icon.gif]][[Image:OS_apple_icon.gif]]
| OpenSource
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| Mame <.106uq2
| ''Placeholder''

|-
| [[XMAME-GUI]]
| %
| [[Image:Java.gif]]
| Open Source
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| SDL-MAME Only
| ''Placeholder''

|}

''Homepages for these FEs are gone, and are (might?) not active anymore:''

* ''[[Arcade.EXE]] - Windows-only MAME front-end''
* ''[[ArcadeFE]] - Windows-only MAME front-end''
* ''[[ArcadeFX]] - Windows-only MAME front-end''

'''1)''' Type:
* '''Open Source:''' is fully functional software with source code included.
* '''Freeware:''' is fully functional without payment and without nag screens and ads.
* '''Shareware:''' has limited functionality (or has nags) until payment is made.
* '''Commercial:''' software is fully functional for a limited time, after which payment must be made.

'''2)''' Skinnable:
* '''Basic: ''' change only the background, and maybe text size and/or color
* '''Advanced: ''' change all artwork. The interface elements are locked in place, although buttons may be able to be resized
* '''Full: ''' change all artwork, all interface elements can be changed (resize, moveable and resolution).

'''3)''' Emulators:
* If '''CMD''' is shown, this front-end can run all command line based emulators.
* If '''PC''' is shown, it can run PC games as well (using bat and/or shortcuts files).

'''4)''' Other Features:
*'''DEV''' - Still in developing for fixing bugs or/and supported.
*'''AM''' - Native arcade monitor support without ArcadeVGA card
*'''CAB''' - Mouse and keyboard-free operation (for cabinets)
*'''JB''' - Integrated jukebox
*'''LCD''' - LCD screen, such as those found at http://www.seetron.com/
*'''LED''' - Front-end can control a LED controller
*'''LR''' - Low Resolutions (below 640 pixels wide)
*'''MR''' - Multiple Resolutions
*'''ST''' - Skin tool included
*'''SW''' - Skinnable without tool
*'''VID''' - Video snapshots (movies)
*'''TOU''' - Touchscreen Support

'''5)''' About Discontinued Frontends (no DEV in the Other Features list):

Just because a frontend is discontinued does not mean that it is a bad frontend.
Either there is no more need to update it, or the author just left the project.
Discontinued frontends are still used in cabinets today, and most run on both older and newer machines, though some may have some issues with newer versions of MAME.
So check these out as well.

Mala Wiki

2008-09-28T19:14:37Z

Blanka: /* Indepth Mala Documentation */

__NOTOC__

[[Image:Malaw.jpg]]

'''Feel free to add data under the approriate Heading''' Use your Forum username and password

== Set M.A.L.A Quick ==
* [[Mala_Setup|Quick MAME Set-up]]
* [[Mala_NowWhat|Ok I set-up Mame quickly. Where do I go from here???]]

== Indepth Mala Documentation ==
This document is going moved into here: http://www.malafe.net/index.php?page=docshelp (which contain the full document of this section until this is completed).

* [[Mala_Controls|How to setup & use controls]]
* [[Mala_SetupMame|How to setup M.A.M.E.]]
* [[Mala_SetupEmulators|How to setup other Emulators]]
* [[Mala_Layout|How to setup layouts]]
* [[Mala_SetupGameLists|How to manager gamelists]]
* [[Mala_SetupHardware|How to connect MaLa hardware]]
* [[Mala_SetupHotkeys|How to use hotkeys]]
* [[Mala_SetupFilter|How to filter your games]]
* [[Mala_SetupMalaTree|How to use Mala Tree]]

== Other cool MALA features ==
* [[Mala_Cool|Cool Mala Things]]
* [[MaLa_FAQ|Mala FAQ]]
* [[Mala_JukeBox|Jukebox]]
* [[Mala_Forum|MaLa Forum]]
* [[MalaFileTypes|FileTypes]]

== Config Options ('''Complete list''' ‘Tab by Tab’) ==
* [[Mala_Config|Mala Config]] - Indepth Description of configuration

== Other Emu-Set-up ==
* [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=56010.0 MaLa "How to" guide] - Install and configure emulators (as well as Visual Pinball) (BYOAC Forum Link)
* [http://mala.arcadezentrum.com/easytrack.php?id=emuguideaddon Zinc and ePSXe Help] - It from MaLa website

== Game Lists ==
* [[Mala_Creation| Creation / Filtering]]
* [[Mala_Tree|MaLa Tree]]

== Plug-Ins ==
* [[Mala_Plugins]] How to create and install Plug-Ins

* [http://mala.arcadezentrum.com/plugins.html List of various plugins]

== Layouts ==
* [[Mala_Layout|MaLa Layouts]] How to create and install Layouts
* [http://mala.arcadezentrum.com/layouts.html Completed Layouts] - Lists of completed Layouts

== MaLa Hardware ==
* [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=57516.msg566089#msg566089 MaLaLED Attract Mode] - How To use LED attract mode (BYOAC Forum Link)
* [http://mala.arcadezentrum.com/hardware.html What does this hardware do?]
* [http://www.members.optushome.com.au/backwash/malahw Install] How to install it.

== Possible Bugs ==
* [[Mala_Bugs|Post/ view Bugs in a table for all to see/ add to - For Constructive Purposes]]
* [http://mala.arcadezentrum.com/bugreport.html Send a private message to Swindus about a possible bug]

{{Mala-Wiki}}

Talk:Mamey

2008-08-10T08:07:30Z

Blanka:

I don't get the fuzz about Mamey's. It is not anywhere near being some serious award. Looking at the selection of projects, it almost looks like a crap-mame site. There is much better stuff built out there!. Then the site is ugly, the scoring looks extreme random, the timing looks extreme random (not simply best of 2006, 2007, 2008 and so on). I wonder if it is worth mentioning on this Wiki. An award should give some respect to the contestants. This is more a "I do not wanna win award"

1UP's Pac-Mamea!

2008-06-17T06:06:23Z

Blanka: Homepage is gone

* '''Project Type:''' Upright Arcade Cabinet
* '''Construction Method:''' Unclassified
* '''Monitor Type:''' Television
* '''Interface Type:''' Unclassified
* '''Special Controls:''' Spinner, Trackball, Flight Yoke
* '''OS:''' Windows

 
== Additional Details ==
My first finished cabinet! Details on artwork, construction, and the first ever integrated rotating control panel!

 
== Pictures ==
http://arcadecontrols.com/images/examples/1uparcade.gif

 

[[Upright_cabinets|Back to Upright Cabinet Examples]]

[[Category:Examples]]

Power Options

2008-05-12T08:21:51Z

Blanka: Typo

{{WorkInProgress}}
__notoc__
In building your cabinet, you might forget that a PC is running at the heart of it and you don't want to be opening it up each time to turn it on. Also, you may want your cabinets' components (PC, monitor, speakers, marquee light etc.) to power on and off simultaneously with each other, to add to the illusion of a real arcade machine. Depending on what operating system you are using, simply unplugging the PC may cause problems if the operating system is not given time to properly power down.

There are several options to consider...

=='Smart' Power Strips==
[[Image:Smart_Strip_LCG4.jpg|right|thumb|Bits Ltd. Smartrip power strip]]
A popular approach is to use a Smartstrip or similar 'smart switching' power strip. Smartstrips can provide constant power to some components just like a normal power strip, but their most attractive feature is their automatic switching ability.

One component (typically your PC) is plugged into the blue 'Control' outlet. Other cabinet components are plugged into the switched outlets; these components will remain unpowered until your PC (or whatever is plugged into the blue Control outlet) is switched on. This means that all components will power on when your PC is switched on, and more importantly once your PC completes its shutdown procedure the other components will automatically power off. Using your PC's power switch to turn on and off all components of your cabinet in this way is probably the most popular option for PCs running modern operating systems.

Alternatives to the Bits Ltd. Smartstrip include the Mini Power Minder and the PowerMite DD (sold by BYOAC member Whammoed).
===Build Your Own 'Smart' Power Strip===
A simple relay can be added to most regular power strips to add 'smart' functionality to them, using a USB cable or hard-drive power cable from your PC to trigger the relay. When a voltage is detected from the PC, the relay supplies power to the outlets (see the external links below for more details). Considering the effort required it may be wiser to go for a retail option, but if you're on a tight budget and know what you're doing then a hack like this may be the way to go.

==Uninterruptible Power Supplies (UPS's)==
[[Image:UPS.jpg|right|thumb|Typical small UPS]]
Generally regarded as the safest way of doing things, though not necessarily the cheapest, is to use a small Uninterruptible Power Supply (UPS) in your cabinet. UPS's are intended to provide temporary battery backup power if there's a drop-out, as well as protect against power spikes.

Many models include a serial or USB functionality that can safely initiate your computer's shutdown procedure once power has been cut to the cabinet; the computer will run on the UPS's battery power until it has shut down. When used in an arcade cabinet this means that you can just pull the plug on the whole cabinet and the computer will then safely shut down.

==Standard Power Strips==
Another approach is to use a regular power strip and, again, hacking an extended-wire intermittent switch to where the strip's switch is, and mounting that somewhere on the cabinet. Then, in the computer's bios settings, 'power on after interrupt' or something of that nature is selected. When power is restored, by turning the strip on, the computer senses this and turns on.

This solution is recommended for DOS based PCs that don't require a shutdown procedure such as Windows based PCs. The computers hard drive can also be damaged if the computer is writing information to its hard drive when power is cut.

==The Power Switch==
Once you've determined the best power solution for your situation, the final step is to mount an on/off switch to an accessible position on your cabinet.

If your cabinets' power is controlled by your computer (as in the Smartstrip solution), you can wire an extended switch from your computer case's power button and mount it somewhere on the surface of the cabinet. The computer could also positioned so that its power switch is accessible through a hole in the side of your cabinet.

==The "Cap Trick"==

There is a way to turn on an ATX motherboard using a small electrolytic capacitor. Known as [http://www.pealefamily.net/tech/newmame/captrick/ The Cap Trick], it relies on the state of an electrolytic capacitor having a shorted state when there is no charge running through it. When you apply a charge, the capacitor has an 'open' state. It's important to use a capacitor with a very small capacitance, so it will open quickly, mimicking a press of the power button.

==External Links==
* [http://home.bendcable.com/werstlein How to Power Your MAME Cabinet]
* [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=20939.0 CrashWGs "BYO Auto-Switching Power Strip" forum thread]

==See Also==
* [[Building]]

[[Category:Index]]
[[Category:Building]]

Wood products

2008-05-12T08:18:33Z

Blanka: /* Particle Board */

__NOTOC__

In building an arcade cabinet, several types of materials are available to you. Each has its strengths and weaknesses.

==Plywood==
Plywood is a manufactured board composed of an odd number of thin sheets of wood glued together under pressure with grains of the successive layers at right angles. Plywood is strong, light, rigid, and resistant to splitting and warping. It can be molded into curved or irregular forms as well. Plywood is not well suited for gloss painting and all edges need to be finished as the wood structure stays visible.

The two types commonly in use today are those made of softwood (such as birch or pine) or hardwood (okume and oak are common types). Other material such as MDF may be substituted for the usual wood core.

==MDF==

MDF is basically a mixture of fine wood fibers and a binder that's pressed into plywood-like sheets. Since MDF has no "grain", it's very stable. The sheets are flat and will stay that way. And with carbide-tipped bits and blades, it machines smoothly and easily. Topping it all off, MDF is relatively inexpensive. Some drawbacks to MDF are its weight (a 3/4"x4'x8' or 18x1220x2440mm sheet will weigh ~90 lbs or 40 kgs) and water resistance. MDF is more moisture tolerant than particleboard, but WILL swell upon contact with water. MDF is not suited for serious construction as it suffers from creeping. It is incapable of restoring previous conditions after removing long term applied forces. A shelve is the best example of something NOT to make from MDF, make it from plywood. In an arcade cabinet this is not a big problem as many faces strut each other and sizes are relative small. To keep weight down, you can better use 12mm / 1/2" panels with more interior partitioning than to use heavy 18mm / 3/4" panels without interior partitioning. T-molding will need 18mm / 3/4" wide side-panels though.

::'''''MDF DUST IS TOXIC! CARE SHOULD BE TAKEN TO AVOID INHALING IT. BREATHING PROTECTION IS A MUST WHEN WORKING WITH THIS MATERIAL. EFFECTS OF INHALATION ARE EXTREMELY HARMFUL TO YOUR HEALTH'''''

Today you can also buy Zero-F MDF or MDF Ecologique without any formaldehyde which makes this variation non-toxic and well suited for kid furniture. Sadly many DIY shops rather sell the 1 euro/1 dollar cheaper formaldehyde containing panels. The dust itself remains a problem, but for the occasional woodworker this is not harmful. Just try to do excessive sanding, grinding and sawing with a vacuum connected system or in a well ventilated area (outdoor).

==MDO==

MDO is a hybrid material made for outdoor applications such as sign painting. It has a core of 5 or 7-ply plywood that is manufactured using moisture resistant resins and bonding agents between the plys. Either one or both sides (faces) are coated with a thin layer of water resistant "paper" that is similar in smoothness to MDF. This product is typically more expensive than MDF, but provides all the advantages of plywood (lighter weight, more durable, better water resistance) with the same smooth, paint-ready face surface as MDF. MDO can typically be purchased at the "big box" stores at the order desk, or usually can be found in stock in a woodworkers supply store or through a local lumberyard.

::'''''MDO DUST IS TOXIC! CARE SHOULD BE TAKEN TO AVOID INHALING IT. BREATHING PROTECTION IS A MUST WHEN WORKING WITH THIS MATERIAL. EFFECTS OF INHALATION ARE EXTREMELY HARMFUL TO YOUR HEALTH'''''

==OSB==

OSB is an engineered structural wood panel made up of three layers of oriented wood flakes. It is a sheet material in which strands of wood are bonded together with a synthetic resin adhesive. The alignment of the wood strands contributes to the boards strength and structural performance. Avoid it for cabinet construction unless you want to use its looks. Plywood does better on every aspect except price. But raw wood costs are a very small part of the grand total, so do not save this penny!

==Particle Board==

Particle board (sometimes called chipboard) is a composite material manufactured from wood particles (wood chips, shavings, or even saw dust) and a synthetic resin or binder, which is pressed and extruded. Particle board is an engineered-wood product and is very dense, heavy, and flat. It is used as a cheaper and less durable substitute for solid wood or plywood. It is very prone to expansion due to moisture. Avoid it for cabinet construction! Depending on your goals, choose plywood, MDF or MDO.

==See Also==
* [[Building]]

[[Category:Building]]

Wood products

2008-05-12T08:16:04Z

Blanka: /* Particle Board */

__NOTOC__

In building an arcade cabinet, several types of materials are available to you. Each has its strengths and weaknesses.

==Plywood==
Plywood is a manufactured board composed of an odd number of thin sheets of wood glued together under pressure with grains of the successive layers at right angles. Plywood is strong, light, rigid, and resistant to splitting and warping. It can be molded into curved or irregular forms as well. Plywood is not well suited for gloss painting and all edges need to be finished as the wood structure stays visible.

The two types commonly in use today are those made of softwood (such as birch or pine) or hardwood (okume and oak are common types). Other material such as MDF may be substituted for the usual wood core.

==MDF==

MDF is basically a mixture of fine wood fibers and a binder that's pressed into plywood-like sheets. Since MDF has no "grain", it's very stable. The sheets are flat and will stay that way. And with carbide-tipped bits and blades, it machines smoothly and easily. Topping it all off, MDF is relatively inexpensive. Some drawbacks to MDF are its weight (a 3/4"x4'x8' or 18x1220x2440mm sheet will weigh ~90 lbs or 40 kgs) and water resistance. MDF is more moisture tolerant than particleboard, but WILL swell upon contact with water. MDF is not suited for serious construction as it suffers from creeping. It is incapable of restoring previous conditions after removing long term applied forces. A shelve is the best example of something NOT to make from MDF, make it from plywood. In an arcade cabinet this is not a big problem as many faces strut each other and sizes are relative small. To keep weight down, you can better use 12mm / 1/2" panels with more interior partitioning than to use heavy 18mm / 3/4" panels without interior partitioning. T-molding will need 18mm / 3/4" wide side-panels though.

::'''''MDF DUST IS TOXIC! CARE SHOULD BE TAKEN TO AVOID INHALING IT. BREATHING PROTECTION IS A MUST WHEN WORKING WITH THIS MATERIAL. EFFECTS OF INHALATION ARE EXTREMELY HARMFUL TO YOUR HEALTH'''''

Today you can also buy Zero-F MDF or MDF Ecologique without any formaldehyde which makes this variation non-toxic and well suited for kid furniture. Sadly many DIY shops rather sell the 1 euro/1 dollar cheaper formaldehyde containing panels. The dust itself remains a problem, but for the occasional woodworker this is not harmful. Just try to do excessive sanding, grinding and sawing with a vacuum connected system or in a well ventilated area (outdoor).

==MDO==

MDO is a hybrid material made for outdoor applications such as sign painting. It has a core of 5 or 7-ply plywood that is manufactured using moisture resistant resins and bonding agents between the plys. Either one or both sides (faces) are coated with a thin layer of water resistant "paper" that is similar in smoothness to MDF. This product is typically more expensive than MDF, but provides all the advantages of plywood (lighter weight, more durable, better water resistance) with the same smooth, paint-ready face surface as MDF. MDO can typically be purchased at the "big box" stores at the order desk, or usually can be found in stock in a woodworkers supply store or through a local lumberyard.

::'''''MDO DUST IS TOXIC! CARE SHOULD BE TAKEN TO AVOID INHALING IT. BREATHING PROTECTION IS A MUST WHEN WORKING WITH THIS MATERIAL. EFFECTS OF INHALATION ARE EXTREMELY HARMFUL TO YOUR HEALTH'''''

==OSB==

OSB is an engineered structural wood panel made up of three layers of oriented wood flakes. It is a sheet material in which strands of wood are bonded together with a synthetic resin adhesive. The alignment of the wood strands contributes to the boards strength and structural performance. Avoid it for cabinet construction unless you want to use its looks. Plywood does better on every aspect except price. But raw wood costs are a very small part of the grand total, so do not save this penny!

==Particle Board==

Particle board (sometimes called chipboard) is a composite material manufactured from wood particles (wood chips, shavings, or even saw dust) and a synthetic resin or binder, which is pressed and extruded. Particle board is an engineered-wood product and is very dense, heavy, and flat. It is used as a cheaper and less durable substitute for solid wood or plywood. It is very prone to expansion due to moisture. Avoid it for cabinet construction! Depending on your goals, choose plywood or MDF.

==See Also==
* [[Building]]

[[Category:Building]]

Wood products

2008-05-12T08:13:09Z

Blanka: /* OSB */

__NOTOC__

In building an arcade cabinet, several types of materials are available to you. Each has its strengths and weaknesses.

==Plywood==
Plywood is a manufactured board composed of an odd number of thin sheets of wood glued together under pressure with grains of the successive layers at right angles. Plywood is strong, light, rigid, and resistant to splitting and warping. It can be molded into curved or irregular forms as well. Plywood is not well suited for gloss painting and all edges need to be finished as the wood structure stays visible.

The two types commonly in use today are those made of softwood (such as birch or pine) or hardwood (okume and oak are common types). Other material such as MDF may be substituted for the usual wood core.

==MDF==

MDF is basically a mixture of fine wood fibers and a binder that's pressed into plywood-like sheets. Since MDF has no "grain", it's very stable. The sheets are flat and will stay that way. And with carbide-tipped bits and blades, it machines smoothly and easily. Topping it all off, MDF is relatively inexpensive. Some drawbacks to MDF are its weight (a 3/4"x4'x8' or 18x1220x2440mm sheet will weigh ~90 lbs or 40 kgs) and water resistance. MDF is more moisture tolerant than particleboard, but WILL swell upon contact with water. MDF is not suited for serious construction as it suffers from creeping. It is incapable of restoring previous conditions after removing long term applied forces. A shelve is the best example of something NOT to make from MDF, make it from plywood. In an arcade cabinet this is not a big problem as many faces strut each other and sizes are relative small. To keep weight down, you can better use 12mm / 1/2" panels with more interior partitioning than to use heavy 18mm / 3/4" panels without interior partitioning. T-molding will need 18mm / 3/4" wide side-panels though.

::'''''MDF DUST IS TOXIC! CARE SHOULD BE TAKEN TO AVOID INHALING IT. BREATHING PROTECTION IS A MUST WHEN WORKING WITH THIS MATERIAL. EFFECTS OF INHALATION ARE EXTREMELY HARMFUL TO YOUR HEALTH'''''

Today you can also buy Zero-F MDF or MDF Ecologique without any formaldehyde which makes this variation non-toxic and well suited for kid furniture. Sadly many DIY shops rather sell the 1 euro/1 dollar cheaper formaldehyde containing panels. The dust itself remains a problem, but for the occasional woodworker this is not harmful. Just try to do excessive sanding, grinding and sawing with a vacuum connected system or in a well ventilated area (outdoor).

==MDO==

MDO is a hybrid material made for outdoor applications such as sign painting. It has a core of 5 or 7-ply plywood that is manufactured using moisture resistant resins and bonding agents between the plys. Either one or both sides (faces) are coated with a thin layer of water resistant "paper" that is similar in smoothness to MDF. This product is typically more expensive than MDF, but provides all the advantages of plywood (lighter weight, more durable, better water resistance) with the same smooth, paint-ready face surface as MDF. MDO can typically be purchased at the "big box" stores at the order desk, or usually can be found in stock in a woodworkers supply store or through a local lumberyard.

::'''''MDO DUST IS TOXIC! CARE SHOULD BE TAKEN TO AVOID INHALING IT. BREATHING PROTECTION IS A MUST WHEN WORKING WITH THIS MATERIAL. EFFECTS OF INHALATION ARE EXTREMELY HARMFUL TO YOUR HEALTH'''''

==OSB==

OSB is an engineered structural wood panel made up of three layers of oriented wood flakes. It is a sheet material in which strands of wood are bonded together with a synthetic resin adhesive. The alignment of the wood strands contributes to the boards strength and structural performance. Avoid it for cabinet construction unless you want to use its looks. Plywood does better on every aspect except price. But raw wood costs are a very small part of the grand total, so do not save this penny!

==Particle Board==

Particle board (sometimes called chipboard) is a composite material manufactured from wood particles (wood chips, shavings, or even saw dust) and a synthetic resin or binder, which is pressed and extruded. Particle board is an engineered-wood product and is very dense, heavy, and flat. It is used as a cheaper and less durable substitute for solid wood or plywood. It is very prone to expansion due to moisture.

==See Also==
* [[Building]]

[[Category:Building]]

Wood products

2008-05-12T08:08:37Z

Blanka: /* MDF */

__NOTOC__

In building an arcade cabinet, several types of materials are available to you. Each has its strengths and weaknesses.

==Plywood==
Plywood is a manufactured board composed of an odd number of thin sheets of wood glued together under pressure with grains of the successive layers at right angles. Plywood is strong, light, rigid, and resistant to splitting and warping. It can be molded into curved or irregular forms as well. Plywood is not well suited for gloss painting and all edges need to be finished as the wood structure stays visible.

The two types commonly in use today are those made of softwood (such as birch or pine) or hardwood (okume and oak are common types). Other material such as MDF may be substituted for the usual wood core.

==MDF==

MDF is basically a mixture of fine wood fibers and a binder that's pressed into plywood-like sheets. Since MDF has no "grain", it's very stable. The sheets are flat and will stay that way. And with carbide-tipped bits and blades, it machines smoothly and easily. Topping it all off, MDF is relatively inexpensive. Some drawbacks to MDF are its weight (a 3/4"x4'x8' or 18x1220x2440mm sheet will weigh ~90 lbs or 40 kgs) and water resistance. MDF is more moisture tolerant than particleboard, but WILL swell upon contact with water. MDF is not suited for serious construction as it suffers from creeping. It is incapable of restoring previous conditions after removing long term applied forces. A shelve is the best example of something NOT to make from MDF, make it from plywood. In an arcade cabinet this is not a big problem as many faces strut each other and sizes are relative small. To keep weight down, you can better use 12mm / 1/2" panels with more interior partitioning than to use heavy 18mm / 3/4" panels without interior partitioning. T-molding will need 18mm / 3/4" wide side-panels though.

::'''''MDF DUST IS TOXIC! CARE SHOULD BE TAKEN TO AVOID INHALING IT. BREATHING PROTECTION IS A MUST WHEN WORKING WITH THIS MATERIAL. EFFECTS OF INHALATION ARE EXTREMELY HARMFUL TO YOUR HEALTH'''''

Today you can also buy Zero-F MDF or MDF Ecologique without any formaldehyde which makes this variation non-toxic and well suited for kid furniture. Sadly many DIY shops rather sell the 1 euro/1 dollar cheaper formaldehyde containing panels. The dust itself remains a problem, but for the occasional woodworker this is not harmful. Just try to do excessive sanding, grinding and sawing with a vacuum connected system or in a well ventilated area (outdoor).

==MDO==

MDO is a hybrid material made for outdoor applications such as sign painting. It has a core of 5 or 7-ply plywood that is manufactured using moisture resistant resins and bonding agents between the plys. Either one or both sides (faces) are coated with a thin layer of water resistant "paper" that is similar in smoothness to MDF. This product is typically more expensive than MDF, but provides all the advantages of plywood (lighter weight, more durable, better water resistance) with the same smooth, paint-ready face surface as MDF. MDO can typically be purchased at the "big box" stores at the order desk, or usually can be found in stock in a woodworkers supply store or through a local lumberyard.

::'''''MDO DUST IS TOXIC! CARE SHOULD BE TAKEN TO AVOID INHALING IT. BREATHING PROTECTION IS A MUST WHEN WORKING WITH THIS MATERIAL. EFFECTS OF INHALATION ARE EXTREMELY HARMFUL TO YOUR HEALTH'''''

==OSB==

OSB is an engineered structural wood panel made up of three layers of oriented wood flakes. It is a sheet material in which strands of wood are bonded together with a synthetic resin adhesive. The alignment of the wood strands contributes to the boards strength and structural performance.

==Particle Board==

Particle board (sometimes called chipboard) is a composite material manufactured from wood particles (wood chips, shavings, or even saw dust) and a synthetic resin or binder, which is pressed and extruded. Particle board is an engineered-wood product and is very dense, heavy, and flat. It is used as a cheaper and less durable substitute for solid wood or plywood. It is very prone to expansion due to moisture.

==See Also==
* [[Building]]

[[Category:Building]]

Wood products

2008-05-12T08:06:49Z

Blanka: /* MDF */

__NOTOC__

In building an arcade cabinet, several types of materials are available to you. Each has its strengths and weaknesses.

==Plywood==
Plywood is a manufactured board composed of an odd number of thin sheets of wood glued together under pressure with grains of the successive layers at right angles. Plywood is strong, light, rigid, and resistant to splitting and warping. It can be molded into curved or irregular forms as well. Plywood is not well suited for gloss painting and all edges need to be finished as the wood structure stays visible.

The two types commonly in use today are those made of softwood (such as birch or pine) or hardwood (okume and oak are common types). Other material such as MDF may be substituted for the usual wood core.

==MDF==

MDF is basically a mixture of fine wood fibers and a binder that's pressed into plywood-like sheets. Since MDF has no "grain", it's very stable. The sheets are flat and will stay that way. And with carbide-tipped bits and blades, it machines smoothly and easily. Topping it all off, MDF is relatively inexpensive. Some drawbacks to MDF are its weight (a 3/4"x4'x8' or 18x1220x2440mm sheet will weigh ~90 lbs or 40 kgs) and water resistance. MDF is more moisture tolerant than particleboard, but WILL swell upon contact with water. MDF is not suited for serious construction as it suffers from creeping. It is incapable of restoring previous conditions after removing long term applied forces. A shelve is the best example of something NOT to make from MDF, make it from plywood. In an arcade cabinet this is not a big problem as many faces strut each other and sizes are relative small. To keep weight down, you can better use 12mm / 1/2" panels with more interior partitioning than to use heavy 18mm / 3/4" panels without interior partitioning. T-molding will need 18mm / 3/4" wide side-panels though.

::'''''MDF DUST IS TOXIC! CARE SHOULD BE TAKEN TO AVOID INHALING IT. BREATHING PROTECTION IS A MUST WHEN WORKING WITH THIS MATERIAL. EFFECTS OF INHALATION ARE EXTREMELY HARMFUL TO YOUR HEALTH'''''

Today you can also buy Zero-F MDF or MDF Ecologique without any formaldehyde which makes it non-toxic, although many DIY shops rather sell the 1 euro/1 dollar cheaper formaldehyde containing panels. The dust itself remains a problem, but for the occasional woodworker this is not harmful. Just try to do excessive sanding, grinding and sawing with a vacuum connected system or in a well ventilated area (outdoor).

==MDO==

MDO is a hybrid material made for outdoor applications such as sign painting. It has a core of 5 or 7-ply plywood that is manufactured using moisture resistant resins and bonding agents between the plys. Either one or both sides (faces) are coated with a thin layer of water resistant "paper" that is similar in smoothness to MDF. This product is typically more expensive than MDF, but provides all the advantages of plywood (lighter weight, more durable, better water resistance) with the same smooth, paint-ready face surface as MDF. MDO can typically be purchased at the "big box" stores at the order desk, or usually can be found in stock in a woodworkers supply store or through a local lumberyard.

::'''''MDO DUST IS TOXIC! CARE SHOULD BE TAKEN TO AVOID INHALING IT. BREATHING PROTECTION IS A MUST WHEN WORKING WITH THIS MATERIAL. EFFECTS OF INHALATION ARE EXTREMELY HARMFUL TO YOUR HEALTH'''''

==OSB==

OSB is an engineered structural wood panel made up of three layers of oriented wood flakes. It is a sheet material in which strands of wood are bonded together with a synthetic resin adhesive. The alignment of the wood strands contributes to the boards strength and structural performance.

==Particle Board==

Particle board (sometimes called chipboard) is a composite material manufactured from wood particles (wood chips, shavings, or even saw dust) and a synthetic resin or binder, which is pressed and extruded. Particle board is an engineered-wood product and is very dense, heavy, and flat. It is used as a cheaper and less durable substitute for solid wood or plywood. It is very prone to expansion due to moisture.

==See Also==
* [[Building]]

[[Category:Building]]

Wood products

2008-05-12T08:03:43Z

Blanka: /* MDF */

__NOTOC__

In building an arcade cabinet, several types of materials are available to you. Each has its strengths and weaknesses.

==Plywood==
Plywood is a manufactured board composed of an odd number of thin sheets of wood glued together under pressure with grains of the successive layers at right angles. Plywood is strong, light, rigid, and resistant to splitting and warping. It can be molded into curved or irregular forms as well. Plywood is not well suited for gloss painting and all edges need to be finished as the wood structure stays visible.

The two types commonly in use today are those made of softwood (such as birch or pine) or hardwood (okume and oak are common types). Other material such as MDF may be substituted for the usual wood core.

==MDF==

MDF is basically a mixture of fine wood fibers and a binder that's pressed into plywood-like sheets. Since MDF has no "grain", it's very stable. The sheets are flat and will stay that way. And with carbide-tipped bits and blades, it machines smoothly and easily. Topping it all off, MDF is relatively inexpensive. Some drawbacks to MDF are its weight (a 3/4"x4'x8' or 18x1220x2440mm sheet will weigh ~90 lbs or 40 kgs) and water resistance. MDF is more moisture tolerant than particleboard, but WILL swell upon contact with water. MDF is not suited for serious construction as it suffers from creeping. It is incapable of restoring previous conditions after removing long term applied forces. A shelve is the best example of something NOT to make from MDF, make it from plywood. In an arcade cabinet this is not a big problem as many faces strut each other and sizes are relative small. To keep weight down, you can better use 12mm / 1/2" panels with more interior partitioning than to use heavy 18mm / 3/4" panels without interior partitioning. T-molding will need 18mm / 3/4" wide side-panels though.

::'''''MDF DUST IS TOXIC! CARE SHOULD BE TAKEN TO AVOID INHALING IT. BREATHING PROTECTION IS A MUST WHEN WORKING WITH THIS MATERIAL. EFFECTS OF INHALATION ARE EXTREMELY HARMFUL TO YOUR HEALTH'''''

Today you can also buy Zero-F MDF or MDF Ecologique without any formaldehyde which makes it non-toxic, although many DIY shops rather sell the 1 euro/1 dollar cheaper formaldehyde containing panels. The dust itself remains a problem, but for the occasional woodworker this is not harmful.

==MDO==

MDO is a hybrid material made for outdoor applications such as sign painting. It has a core of 5 or 7-ply plywood that is manufactured using moisture resistant resins and bonding agents between the plys. Either one or both sides (faces) are coated with a thin layer of water resistant "paper" that is similar in smoothness to MDF. This product is typically more expensive than MDF, but provides all the advantages of plywood (lighter weight, more durable, better water resistance) with the same smooth, paint-ready face surface as MDF. MDO can typically be purchased at the "big box" stores at the order desk, or usually can be found in stock in a woodworkers supply store or through a local lumberyard.

::'''''MDO DUST IS TOXIC! CARE SHOULD BE TAKEN TO AVOID INHALING IT. BREATHING PROTECTION IS A MUST WHEN WORKING WITH THIS MATERIAL. EFFECTS OF INHALATION ARE EXTREMELY HARMFUL TO YOUR HEALTH'''''

==OSB==

OSB is an engineered structural wood panel made up of three layers of oriented wood flakes. It is a sheet material in which strands of wood are bonded together with a synthetic resin adhesive. The alignment of the wood strands contributes to the boards strength and structural performance.

==Particle Board==

Particle board (sometimes called chipboard) is a composite material manufactured from wood particles (wood chips, shavings, or even saw dust) and a synthetic resin or binder, which is pressed and extruded. Particle board is an engineered-wood product and is very dense, heavy, and flat. It is used as a cheaper and less durable substitute for solid wood or plywood. It is very prone to expansion due to moisture.

==See Also==
* [[Building]]

[[Category:Building]]

Wood products

2008-05-12T07:44:33Z

Blanka: Birch is not hard-wood. Okume is most common hardwood plywood. Never seen Pine or Oak panels in Europe. Left it on as USA may have this available.

Classic Games

2008-05-12T07:19:12Z

Blanka: Edit Hanaho HotRod link

There are also collections and remakes of arcade games from Williams, Namco, Midway, Capcom and Atari:
* [http://www.digitaleclipse.com/products/Games/default.asp?version=13&developer=8&type=1 Digital Eclipse]
* [http://www.microsoft.com/games/arcade2/home.aspx Microsoft's Return of Arcade]
* [http://www.hanaho.com/Products/HotRodJoystick.php Hanaho Hotrod Joystick] (come with legal Capcom Coin-op Classics)

==Other Classics==
* In the late 1990s and early 2000s Hasboro Interactive, Inc. released several remakes, including Frogger, Centipeded, Warlords, and Combat. There are no product links on the Hasboro's or Atari's website, but you can find these games on [http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B0000645WX/104-4560022-3526306?v=glance Amazon.com].

==See Also==
* [[Software]]

[[Category:Software]]

Classic Games

2008-05-12T07:16:51Z

Blanka: Corrected MS Arcade link

There are also collections and remakes of arcade games from Williams, Namco, Midway, Capcom and Atari:
* [http://www.digitaleclipse.com/products/Games/default.asp?version=13&developer=8&type=1 Digital Eclipse]
* [http://www.microsoft.com/games/arcade2/home.aspx Microsoft's Return of Arcade]
* [http://hanaho.com/products/HotRodJoystick/overview.html Hanaho Hotrod Joystick] (come with legal Capcom Coin-op Classics)

==Other Classics==
* In the late 1990s and early 2000s Hasboro Interactive, Inc. released several remakes, including Frogger, Centipeded, Warlords, and Combat. There are no product links on the Hasboro's or Atari's website, but you can find these games on [http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B0000645WX/104-4560022-3526306?v=glance Amazon.com].

==See Also==
* [[Software]]

[[Category:Software]]

Graphics software

2008-05-06T18:38:31Z

Blanka: /* Raster software */

__NOTOC__
'''Graphics software''' are computer programs used by designers to create artwork.

=Raster software=
Raster software is used to create [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raster_graphics raster graphics]. Common used software is:
* [http://www.adobe.com/products/photoshop/main.html?lid=//products//PS+Pdwn Adobe Photoshop (Windows XP, Vista, OSX 10.4, 10.5)]
:Adobe Photoshop is the granddaddy of photo editing. It works in printer-friendly CMYK colours as easy as in RGB colours.
* [http://www.gimp.org/ Gimp (Windows XP, Vista, Linux, OS X version uses the X11 display layer)]
:Gimp is the open-source and free software alternative to Photoshop. Expect every function of Photoshop to be found in Gimp, but do not expect similar smooth operation.
* [http://www.corel.com/servlet/Satellite?pagename=Corel3/Products/Display&pid=1047025487586 Paintshop Pro (Windows XP, Vista)]
:Low budget commercial alternative to Photoshop. Paintshop Pro works with a slider-panel to make quick and easy adjustments to digital camera images. The work flow is comparable to the one in Adobes Lightroom and Apple's Aperture.

=Vector software=
Vector software is used to create [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vector_graphics vector graphics]. Common used software is:
* [http://www.adobe.com/products/illustrator/main.html?lid=//products//AI+Pdwn Adobe Illustrator (Windows XP, Vista, OSX 10.4, 10.5)]
:Adobe Illustrator is a widely used vector illustration program. Available stand-alone or as part of an Creative Suite with Photoshop and InDesign (and optional other programs, depending on the suite you choose). A good tutorial for using Illustrator is available [http://localarcade.com/arcade_art/details.php?image_id=223 here].
* [http://www.corel.com/servlet/Satellite?pagename=Corel3/Products/Display&pfid=1047024307335 Corel Draw (Windows XP, Vista)]
:CorelDraw is the behemoth of vector design. Maybe not the easiest to work with, but it can make custom true-type fonts, it converts more formats than others and does multi-page as well. The quality of Corel's conversion from bitmap to vector can be a good thing to start with.
* [http://sourceforge.net/project/showfiles.php?group_id=4054 Sodipodi (Windows 95, 98, 2000, XP, Vista, BSD capable platforms like OS X or Linux)]
:Sodipodi is an open source vector design tool.
* [http://office.microsoft.com/en-us/FX010857981033.aspx Microsoft Visio (Windows XP, Vista)]
:Microsoft visio might be a first available vector illustration program for people using office suites. Like other office programs, Visio lacks working with printer-friendly CMYK inks. Prime colours without screens are hard to define.
* [http://www.adobe.com/products/freehand/ Freehand MX (Windows 98, NT4, ME, 2000, XP, Vista, Mac OS 9.1, OS X 10.0-10.5]
:Freehand is no longer developed since it was acquired by Adobe, but it is still for sale. For hard core artwork designers Freehand's easier pen-tool, multi-page and paste-inside functions alone make it a worthy alternative to Illustrator and save you many hours on recreating artwork. The program is old but supports many operating systems, and is lightning fast on new machines. Tutorial for vectorizing in Freehand can be found [http://www.vectorize.de/tutorial.html here]

=Things to consider when choosing your software=
There has been much discussion over the years about which programs are better. Keep in mind when you are evaluating a software package to purchase or open source package to use, that you will probably have to output your designs to a professional printer. Not all commercial printers have all programs available, and not all features are compatible with their output hardware. Contact your printer first to make sure they'll be able to use your files.

Another thing to keep in mind when selecting software, is to choose one where you feel yourself most confortable with. If you are familiar with Photoshop, you will probably feel right at home in Illustrator as well. If you are skilled in Visio you can achieve great result even the toolset is more limited than Illustrator's. It all comes down to how well you know the software and how much time you want to invest to learn new skills for a particular software package.

=See also=
* [[Building]]
* [[Technical design software]]
* [[Raster versus Vector artwork]]

[[Category:Building]]

Graphics software

2008-05-06T18:25:10Z

Blanka: /* Vector software */

__NOTOC__
'''Graphics software''' are computer programs used by designers to create artwork.

=Raster software=
Raster software is used to create [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raster_graphics raster graphics]. Common used software is:
* [http://www.adobe.com/products/photoshop/main.html?lid=//products//PS+Pdwn Adobe Photoshop]
* [http://www.gimp.org/ Gimp]
* [http://www.corel.com/servlet/Satellite?pagename=Corel3/Products/Display&pid=1047025487586 Paintshop Pro]

=Vector software=
Vector software is used to create [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vector_graphics vector graphics]. Common used software is:
* [http://www.adobe.com/products/illustrator/main.html?lid=//products//AI+Pdwn Adobe Illustrator (Windows XP, Vista, OSX 10.4, 10.5)]
:Adobe Illustrator is a widely used vector illustration program. Available stand-alone or as part of an Creative Suite with Photoshop and InDesign (and optional other programs, depending on the suite you choose). A good tutorial for using Illustrator is available [http://localarcade.com/arcade_art/details.php?image_id=223 here].
* [http://www.corel.com/servlet/Satellite?pagename=Corel3/Products/Display&pfid=1047024307335 Corel Draw (Windows XP, Vista)]
:CorelDraw is the behemoth of vector design. Maybe not the easiest to work with, but it can make custom true-type fonts, it converts more formats than others and does multi-page as well. The quality of Corel's conversion from bitmap to vector can be a good thing to start with.
* [http://sourceforge.net/project/showfiles.php?group_id=4054 Sodipodi (Windows 95, 98, 2000, XP, Vista, BSD capable platforms like OS X or Linux)]
:Sodipodi is an open source vector design tool.
* [http://office.microsoft.com/en-us/FX010857981033.aspx Microsoft Visio (Windows XP, Vista)]
:Microsoft visio might be a first available vector illustration program for people using office suites. Like other office programs, Visio lacks working with printer-friendly CMYK inks. Prime colours without screens are hard to define.
* [http://www.adobe.com/products/freehand/ Freehand MX (Windows 98, NT4, ME, 2000, XP, Vista, Mac OS 9.1, OS X 10.0-10.5]
:Freehand is no longer developed since it was acquired by Adobe, but it is still for sale. For hard core artwork designers Freehand's easier pen-tool, multi-page and paste-inside functions alone make it a worthy alternative to Illustrator and save you many hours on recreating artwork. The program is old but supports many operating systems, and is lightning fast on new machines. Tutorial for vectorizing in Freehand can be found [http://www.vectorize.de/tutorial.html here]

=Things to consider when choosing your software=
There has been much discussion over the years about which programs are better. Keep in mind when you are evaluating a software package to purchase or open source package to use, that you will probably have to output your designs to a professional printer. Not all commercial printers have all programs available, and not all features are compatible with their output hardware. Contact your printer first to make sure they'll be able to use your files.

Another thing to keep in mind when selecting software, is to choose one where you feel yourself most confortable with. If you are familiar with Photoshop, you will probably feel right at home in Illustrator as well. If you are skilled in Visio you can achieve great result even the toolset is more limited than Illustrator's. It all comes down to how well you know the software and how much time you want to invest to learn new skills for a particular software package.

=See also=
* [[Building]]
* [[Technical design software]]
* [[Raster versus Vector artwork]]

[[Category:Building]]

Graphics software

2008-05-06T18:24:12Z

Blanka: /* Vector software */

__NOTOC__
'''Graphics software''' are computer programs used by designers to create artwork.

=Raster software=
Raster software is used to create [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raster_graphics raster graphics]. Common used software is:
* [http://www.adobe.com/products/photoshop/main.html?lid=//products//PS+Pdwn Adobe Photoshop]
* [http://www.gimp.org/ Gimp]
* [http://www.corel.com/servlet/Satellite?pagename=Corel3/Products/Display&pid=1047025487586 Paintshop Pro]

=Vector software=
Vector software is used to create [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vector_graphics vector graphics]. Common used software is:
* [http://www.adobe.com/products/illustrator/main.html?lid=//products//AI+Pdwn Adobe Illustrator (Windows XP, Vista, OSX 10.4, 10.5)]
:Adobe Illustrator is a widely used vector illustration program. Available stand-alone or as part of an Creative Suite with Photoshop and InDesign (and optional other programs, depending on the suite you choose). A good tutorial for using Illustrator is available [http://localarcade.com/arcade_art/details.php?image_id=223 here].
* [http://www.corel.com/servlet/Satellite?pagename=Corel3/Products/Display&pfid=1047024307335 Corel Draw (Windows XP, Vista)]
:CorelDraw is the behemoth of vector design. Maybe not the easiest to work with, but it can make custom true-type fonts, it converts more formats than others and does multi-page as well. The quality of Corel's conversion from bitmap to vector can be a good thing to start with.
* [http://sourceforge.net/project/showfiles.php?group_id=4054 Sodipodi (Windows 95, 98, 2000, XP, Vista, BSD capable platforms like OS X or Linux)]
:Sodipodi is an open source vector design tool.
* [http://office.microsoft.com/en-us/FX010857981033.aspx Microsoft Visio (Windows XP, Vista)]
:Microsoft visio might be a first available vector illustration program for people using office suites. Like other office programs, Visio lacks working with printer-friendly CMYK inks. Prime colours without screens are hard to define.
* [http://www.adobe.com/products/freehand/ Freehand MX (Windows 98, NT4, ME, 2000, XP, Vista, OS 9.1, OS X 10.0-10.5]
:Freehand is no longer developed since it was acquired by Adobe, but it is still for sale. For hard core artwork designers Freehand's easier pen-tool, multi-page and paste-inside functions alone make it a worthy alternative to Illustrator and save you many hours on recreating artwork. The program is old but supports many operating systems, and is lightning fast on new machines. Tutorial for vectorizing in Freehand can be found [http://www.vectorize.de/tutorial.html here]

=Things to consider when choosing your software=
There has been much discussion over the years about which programs are better. Keep in mind when you are evaluating a software package to purchase or open source package to use, that you will probably have to output your designs to a professional printer. Not all commercial printers have all programs available, and not all features are compatible with their output hardware. Contact your printer first to make sure they'll be able to use your files.

Another thing to keep in mind when selecting software, is to choose one where you feel yourself most confortable with. If you are familiar with Photoshop, you will probably feel right at home in Illustrator as well. If you are skilled in Visio you can achieve great result even the toolset is more limited than Illustrator's. It all comes down to how well you know the software and how much time you want to invest to learn new skills for a particular software package.

=See also=
* [[Building]]
* [[Technical design software]]
* [[Raster versus Vector artwork]]

[[Category:Building]]

Graphics software

2008-05-06T18:23:09Z

Blanka: /* Vector software */

__NOTOC__
'''Graphics software''' are computer programs used by designers to create artwork.

=Raster software=
Raster software is used to create [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raster_graphics raster graphics]. Common used software is:
* [http://www.adobe.com/products/photoshop/main.html?lid=//products//PS+Pdwn Adobe Photoshop]
* [http://www.gimp.org/ Gimp]
* [http://www.corel.com/servlet/Satellite?pagename=Corel3/Products/Display&pid=1047025487586 Paintshop Pro]

=Vector software=
Vector software is used to create [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vector_graphics vector graphics]. Common used software is:
* [http://www.adobe.com/products/illustrator/main.html?lid=//products//AI+Pdwn Adobe Illustrator (Windows XP, Vista, OSX 10.4, 10.5)]
:Adobe Illustrator is a widely used vector illustratio program. Available stand-alone or as part of an Creative Suite with Photoshop and InDesign. A good tutorial for using Illustrator is available [http://localarcade.com/arcade_art/details.php?image_id=223 here].
* [http://www.corel.com/servlet/Satellite?pagename=Corel3/Products/Display&pfid=1047024307335 Corel Draw (Windows XP, Vista)]
:CorelDraw is the behemoth of vector design. Maybe not the easiest to work with, but it can make custom true-type fonts, it converts more formats than others and does multi-page as well. The quality of Corel's conversion from bitmap to vector can be a good thing to start with.
* [http://sourceforge.net/project/showfiles.php?group_id=4054 Sodipodi (Windows 95, 98, 2000, XP, Vista, BSD capable platforms like OS X or Linux)]
:Sodipodi is an open source vector design tool.
* [http://office.microsoft.com/en-us/FX010857981033.aspx Microsoft Visio (Windows XP, Vista)]
:Microsoft visio might be a first available vector illustration program for people using office suites. Like other office programs, Visio lacks working with printer-friendly CMYK inks. Prime colours without screens are hard to define.
* [http://www.adobe.com/products/freehand/ Freehand MX (Windows 98, NT4, ME, 2000, XP, Vista, OS 9.1, OS X 10.0-10.5]
:Freehand is no longer developed since it was acquired by Adobe, but it is still for sale. For hard core artwork designers Freehand's easier pen-tool, multi-page and paste-inside functions alone make it a worthy alternative to Illustrator and save you many hours on recreating artwork. The program is old but supports many operating systems, and is lightning fast on new machines. Tutorial for vectorizing in Freehand can be found [http://www.vectorize.de/tutorial.html here]

=Things to consider when choosing your software=
There has been much discussion over the years about which programs are better. Keep in mind when you are evaluating a software package to purchase or open source package to use, that you will probably have to output your designs to a professional printer. Not all commercial printers have all programs available, and not all features are compatible with their output hardware. Contact your printer first to make sure they'll be able to use your files.

Another thing to keep in mind when selecting software, is to choose one where you feel yourself most confortable with. If you are familiar with Photoshop, you will probably feel right at home in Illustrator as well. If you are skilled in Visio you can achieve great result even the toolset is more limited than Illustrator's. It all comes down to how well you know the software and how much time you want to invest to learn new skills for a particular software package.

=See also=
* [[Building]]
* [[Technical design software]]
* [[Raster versus Vector artwork]]

[[Category:Building]]

Technical design software

2008-05-06T17:52:56Z

Blanka: /* Arcade specific software */

'''Technical design software''' is used to create accurate building plans for arcade cabinets.

==Commonly used software==
* '''[http://www.autodesk.com Autodesk AutoCAD (Windows XP, Vista)]'''
:AutoCAD is a highend CAD ("Computer Aided Design"[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Computer-aided_design]) software package. Some BYOACers have access to AutoCAD, it has a steep learning curve - if you are not familiar with the software don't try to use this as your design software.

* '''[http://usa.autodesk.com/adsk/servlet/index?id=5659302&siteID=123112 3D Studio Max (Windows XP, Vista)]'''
:3D Studio is software to create 3D models and render photorealistic images. The software is easier to work with that AutoCAD but the full package is still quite expensive. Graphic designers might have access to the software. Besides the ability to create cabinet plans, the photorealistic render engine enbles the builder to create a lifelike image of the cabinet way before any physical material is touched. [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.0 Pixelhugger's Mission Control arcade] features many renderings of his design before he started to build.

* '''[http://www.visio.com Microsoft Visio (Windows XP, Vista)]'''
:Microsoft Visio is part of the Microsoft Office suite of products. Visio is a 2D diagram software package that can be used to create accurate diagrams and building plans. Some BYOACers also use Visio to create [[Contents#Arcade_Art|artwork]][http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=24442.msg202240#msg202240].

* '''[http://www.sketchup.com SketchUp (Windows XP, Vista, OSX 10.4, 10.5)]'''
:Developed for the conceptual stages of design, SketchUp is powerful yet easy-to-learn 3D software. SketchUp has some very simple online [http://www.sketchup.com/?sid=35 video tutorials] to get you designing within an hour. Although there IS an expensive "pro" version of Sketchup available, recently google bought sketchup and released a fully functional and unlimited FREE version... the only limitation it has is export/import from/to CAD applications... This is NOT a limitation to cabinet building. An example is the [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=68794.0 ARTIFACT PROJECT, designed using Sketchup (screenshots of the plans from Sketchup)] by a BYOAC member. Download Sketchup 6 FREE [http://sketchup.google.com/download.html here].

==Arcade specific software==
* '''[http://www.tahnokgames.com/Applications/CPSketcher/applications_cpsketcher.htm CP Sketcher (Windows 98 SE, 2000, ME, XP)]'''
:CP Sketcher is a program created to design arcade control panels. It allows you to sketch up a design using real parts and then build it using the plans it creates.

* '''[http://www.versiontracker.com/dyn/moreinfo/macosx/22834 Joystick And Gamepad Tester (OS X 10.3-10.5)]'''
:Joystick And Gamepad Tester is a very useful freeware program to test your control panel before sealing your cabinet. It can be used to determine the orientation of analogue joysticks and trackballs and to check if everything is connected correctly. It works with gamepads, keyboards, joysticks, mice, keyboard-encoders, mouse-encoders, trackball interfaces, spinners.

==See also==
* [[Building]]
* [[Graphics software]]
* [[SketchUp_Tips]]

[[Category:Building]]

Technical design software

2008-05-06T17:52:03Z

Blanka: Some useful programs added and mentioning OS-es for each program

'''Technical design software''' is used to create accurate building plans for arcade cabinets.

==Commonly used software==
* '''[http://www.autodesk.com Autodesk AutoCAD (Windows XP, Vista)]'''
:AutoCAD is a highend CAD ("Computer Aided Design"[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Computer-aided_design]) software package. Some BYOACers have access to AutoCAD, it has a steep learning curve - if you are not familiar with the software don't try to use this as your design software.

* '''[http://usa.autodesk.com/adsk/servlet/index?id=5659302&siteID=123112 3D Studio Max (Windows XP, Vista)]'''
:3D Studio is software to create 3D models and render photorealistic images. The software is easier to work with that AutoCAD but the full package is still quite expensive. Graphic designers might have access to the software. Besides the ability to create cabinet plans, the photorealistic render engine enbles the builder to create a lifelike image of the cabinet way before any physical material is touched. [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.0 Pixelhugger's Mission Control arcade] features many renderings of his design before he started to build.

* '''[http://www.visio.com Microsoft Visio (Windows XP, Vista)]'''
:Microsoft Visio is part of the Microsoft Office suite of products. Visio is a 2D diagram software package that can be used to create accurate diagrams and building plans. Some BYOACers also use Visio to create [[Contents#Arcade_Art|artwork]][http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=24442.msg202240#msg202240].

* '''[http://www.sketchup.com SketchUp (Windows XP, Vista, OSX 10.4, 10.5)]'''
:Developed for the conceptual stages of design, SketchUp is powerful yet easy-to-learn 3D software. SketchUp has some very simple online [http://www.sketchup.com/?sid=35 video tutorials] to get you designing within an hour. Although there IS an expensive "pro" version of Sketchup available, recently google bought sketchup and released a fully functional and unlimited FREE version... the only limitation it has is export/import from/to CAD applications... This is NOT a limitation to cabinet building. An example is the [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=68794.0 ARTIFACT PROJECT, designed using Sketchup (screenshots of the plans from Sketchup)] by a BYOAC member. Download Sketchup 6 FREE [http://sketchup.google.com/download.html here].

==Arcade specific software==
* '''[http://www.tahnokgames.com/Applications/CPSketcher/applications_cpsketcher.htm CP Sketcher (Windows 98 SE, 2000, ME, XP)]'''
:CP Sketcher is a program created to design arcade control panels. It allows you to sketch up a design using real parts and then build it using the plans it creates.

* '''[http://www.versiontracker.com/dyn/moreinfo/macosx/22834 Joystick And Gamepad Tester (OS X 10.3-10.5, older versions support OSX 10.1, 10.2)]'''
:Joystick And Gamepad Tester is a very useful freeware program to test your control panel before sealing your cabinet. It can be used to determine the orientation of analogue joysticks and trackballs and to check if everything is connected correctly. It works with gamepads, keyboards, joysticks, mice, keyboard-encoders, mouse-encoders, trackball interfaces, spinners.

==See also==
* [[Building]]
* [[Graphics software]]
* [[SketchUp_Tips]]

[[Category:Building]]

PC Monitors

2008-05-04T20:11:08Z

Blanka:

A PC monitor is the simplest and most direct route to setting up a display for your arcade machine. PC monitors provide ok quality, are relatively inexpensive and are very simple to set up. As opposed to a television or authentic arcade monitor all that is required to display games on a PC monitor is to attach the monitor to your PCs VGA connector.

One negative to consider if you are thinking of using a PC monitor in your arcade machine is that games may tend to look slightly "pixelated" (blocky looking) due to the high resolutions that modern PC monitors run at. Enabling scan-lines (black lines across the screen) can make the quality better but it still does not compare to the quality that can be achieved with a television or better yet, an arcade monitor.

It is important to note that original arcade machines were run at quite a few different resolutions and some of these resolutions will look better than others on a PC monitor. A simple PC monitor connection will never be able to give you a truly "authentic" arcade look due to these resolution issues but software tweaks and resolution adjustments can create an acceptable picture.

Fans of Vector arcade games should consider the following fact when considering PC monitors: The higher resolutions available on PC monitors create what many consider a better picture when emulating vector graphics (compared to TVs or standard arcade monitors). This is because the higher resolution (generally SXGA and higher, though XGA will do, even on a 27" CRT) makes for much smoother graphics (lines) and greater anti-aliasing. (The latter is in regard to an object or line in motion, and how continuous it appears. On raster-type monitors, due to how they draw, there is usually a perceptible watery effect.) With the high prices of Vector monitors and the Zektor Vector Generator [http://www.zektor.com/zvg/ ZVG Homepage], a PC monitor could create an inexpensive alternative to a vector machine for those willing to sacrifice a bit of authenticity for lower cost.

When you want to use a LCD monitor for your arcade, you need to think of even more things. Where a CRT monitor is multisync, it can adjust to many resolutions quite easily, with optimum scaling quality. An LCD on the other hand has a fixed resolution. Other resolutions than the native one are scaled up with anti-aliasing. Check if you like the results first. You are also limited to refresh rates. A CRT can show any refresh rate from 50-100 Hz exactly as intended. LCD screens mostly have a fixed refresh of 60Hz. A 50Hz game can look jerky when displayed on a 60 Hz LCD.

Second problem with an LCD can be the aspect ratio. Most arcades used to have 4:3 screens, wide or portrait. The biggest LCD monitor available in 4:3 aspect ratio is a 21.3 inch screen. Good thing is that these 21.3 inch screen are all high quality S-IPS or S-PVA screens with pivot options. If you want bigger, it means you have to accept the 16:10 aspect ratio. Do not try to find a big 4:3 LCD TV. They do not exist. 21 inch is the bigest 4:3 LCD TV available. These 21 inches are all low resolution 640x480 or 800x600 screens based on TN-panels with bad viewing angles and bad blacks.

Third problem is signal processing. The fastest and cheapest LCD monitors are TN-panels. They are fast, but lack good viewing angles and deep blacks (needed for Pac-Man, Asteroids etc.). Better blacks and viewing angles are delivered by so called S-IPS and S-PVA panels. But these panels are slow and tend to have ghosting with moving images. To compensate for the ghosting, S-IPS and S-PVA panels incorporate overdrive circuits to eliminate ghosting. By analizing 2 image frames, the following 3rd frame can be controlled much better. Result is a slight delay in diplaying the images from the computer. It is wise to time this delay prior to installing a LCD display in your cabinet. Run [http://tft.vanity.dk/inputlag.html this test] to see how fast the LCD monitor response is. You need a 2 head displaycard with mirrored image. One must be connected to a CRT monitor as reference, which can be expected to deliver fast response. The other is connected to the LCD screen you consider for the cabinet. Make a photo with a camera, and compare the timings on each screen. If the delay is more than 0.05 seconds, gaming will be seriously affected by the anti-ghost signal processing.

==See Also==
* [[Video]]

[[Category:Video]]

PC Monitors

2008-05-04T20:08:26Z

Blanka:

A PC monitor is the simplest and most direct route to setting up a display for your arcade machine. PC monitors provide ok quality, are relatively inexpensive and are very simple to set up. As opposed to a television or authentic arcade monitor all that is required to display games on a PC monitor is to attach the monitor to your PCs VGA connector.

One negative to consider if you are thinking of using a PC monitor in your arcade machine is that games may tend to look slightly "pixelated" (blocky looking) due to the high resolutions that modern PC monitors run at. Enabling scan-lines (black lines across the screen) can make the quality better but it still does not compare to the quality that can be achieved with a television or better yet, an arcade monitor.

It is important to note that original arcade machines were run at quite a few different resolutions and some of these resolutions will look better than others on a PC monitor. A simple PC monitor connection will never be able to give you a truly "authentic" arcade look due to these resolution issues but software tweaks and resolution adjustments can create an acceptable picture.

Fans of Vector arcade games should consider the following fact when considering PC monitors: The higher resolutions available on PC monitors create what many consider a better picture when emulating vector graphics (compared to TVs or standard arcade monitors). This is because the higher resolution (generally SXGA and higher, though XGA will do, even on a 27" CRT) makes for much smoother graphics (lines) and greater anti-aliasing. (The latter is in regard to an object or line in motion, and how continuous it appears. On raster-type monitors, due to how they draw, there is usually a perceptible watery effect.) With the high prices of Vector monitors and the Zektor Vector Generator [http://www.zektor.com/zvg/ ZVG Homepage], a PC monitor could create an inexpensive alternative to a vector machine for those willing to sacrifice a bit of authenticity for lower cost.

When you want to use a LCD monitor for your arcade, you need to think of even more things. Where a CRT monitor is multisync, it can adjust to many resolutions quite easily, with optimum scaling quality. An LCD on the other hand has a fixed resolution. Other resolutions than the native one are scaled up with anti-aliasing. Check if you like the results first. You are also limited to refresh rates. A CRT can show any refresh rate from 50-100 Hz exactly as intended. LCD screens mostly have a fixed refresh of 60Hz. A 50Hz game can look jerky when displayed on a 60 Hz LCD.

Second problem with an LCD can be the aspect ratio. Most arcades used to have 4:3 screens, wide or portrait. The biggest LCD monitor available in 4:3 aspect ratio is a 21.3 inch screen. Good thing is that these 21.3 inch screen are all high quality S-IPS or S-PVA screens with pivot options. If you want bigger, it means you have to accept the 16:10 aspect ratio. Do not try to find a big 4:3 LCD TV. They do not exist. 21 inch is the bigest 4:3 LCD TV available. These 21 inches are all low resolution 640x480 or 800x600 screens based on TN-panels with bad viewing angles and bad blacks.

Third problem is signal processing. The fastest and cheapest LCD monitors are TN-panels. They are fast, but lack good viewing angles and deep blacks (needed for pac-man, asteroid etc.). Better blacks and viewing angles are delivered by so called S-IPS and S-PVA panels. But these panels are slow and tend to have ghosting. To compensate for the ghosting, S-IPS and S-PVA panels incorporate overdrive circuits to eliminate ghosting. By analizing 2 frames, the 3rd frame can be controlled much better. Result is a slight delay in diplaying the images from the computer. It is wise to time this delay prior to installing a LCD display in your cabinet. Run [http://tft.vanity.dk/inputlag.html this test] to see how fast the LCD monitor response is. You need a 2 head displaycard with mirrored image. One must be connected to a CRT monitor as reference, which can be expected to deliver fast response. The other is connected to the LCD screen you consider for the cabinet. Make a photo with a camera, and compare the timings on each screen. If the delay is more than 0.05 seconds, gaming will be seriously affected by the anti-ghost signal processing.

==See Also==
* [[Video]]

[[Category:Video]]

Televisions

2008-05-04T19:50:05Z

Blanka: /* Things to consider when choosing a TV */

__NOTOC__
'''Televisions''' can be used in place of arcade monitors. Although not as authentic, televisions offer reasonable video performance with definite cost savings. While TVs do not appear as authentic as actual arcade monitors, they may appear more authentic than the output from a computer monitor with the added benefit that smaller Windows text boxes can still be read, unlike the output from an arcade monitor.

Note: When you live in Europe a (used) TV is an excellent choice for your cabinet, as you can use the SCART connector to feed the RGB signal directly to the screen. In this way, a TV is exactly the same as a "genuine" arcade monitor and is NOT less authentic.
In Europe, "real" arcade monitors are both very hard to get (especialy new) AND very expensive. This is a second great reason to select a TV as your monitor.

Some caution: The SCART expects 0,7 V levels for the signals, while most arcade PCB's (and the video amp in the J-PAC f.i.) deliver 5 V signals. Most TV's seem to have no problem with this but you could damage it. Connecting directly from a VGA card that delivers a 15 kHz signal (like the ArcadeVGA) is no problem at all since those produce signals of around 1V.

=Connection types=
When using a TV, make sure to match the outputs of your video card to the inputs of your television. Several types of video are available when using a TV, each with varying strengths and weaknesses. The more common formats are:

* [[Video Output#Coaxial|Coaxial]]
* [[Video Output#Composite Video (RCA)|Composite Video (RCA)]]
* [[Video Output#S-Video|S-Video]]
* [[Video Output#Component Video (YUV)|Component Video (YUV)]]
* [[Video Output#SCART|SCART]] (Europe)

The type of connection you can use may depend on the connections your videocard can offer and the connections your television accepts.

=Things to consider when choosing a TV=
Some things to consider when choosing a TV for your cabinet:
*How big is the case? Do you want to leave the TV in its case or strip the case off to fit a bigger tube in your cabinet? Is the TV case too deep to fit while your cabinet still has its back panel on?
*Where are the video inputs? Is the video-in port/jack on the TV in an inconvenient place? If it is on the front of the case? Will there be room between the front of the TV and the bezel?
*Does the TV return to the last channel/input when power is cut? If you unplug the TV and then plug it back in (or turn off and on its power strip), does it return to the channel/input it was on last, or does it default to a different channel?
*Will you use it for other media? Will you watch TV on your cab? Will you need to use the TV's remote?
*'''The most important question... will the TV automaticallly power itself back on after a "power failure." ''' If you turn the cabinet's power off, you want the TV to turn itself back on automatically when you later power the cabinet back on.
*If you choose a modern 100Hz, Full HD, LCD or Plasma TV it is wise to check image-processing delays. When you watch TV shows or a movie, this factor is not a problem. If an image is delayed 0.2 seconds, no one will notice. With gaming this can be a big problem though. Run [http://tft.vanity.dk/inputlag.html this test] to see how fast the TV response is. You need a 2 head displaycard with mirrored image. One must be connected to a CRT monitor as reference, which can be expected to deliver fast response. The other is connected to the TV you consider for the cabinet. Make a photo with a camera, and compare the timings on each screen. If the delay is more than 0.05 seconds, gaming will be seriously affected by the TV signal processing.

=TV hacks=
Be sure that you know what you are doing before attempting to work on any CRT display (like a TV or Arcade monitor) as various components in them can carry lethal electrical charges even when unplugged!
*Desolder IR tab from TV board, splice length of wire from board to IR tab, move IR tab into marquee or bezel area so it can receive remote signals better
*TVs generally fit into arcade monitor brackets. Remove TV from case, and bolt into old arcade monitor brackets for a solid installation
*(When mounting a TV onto arcade monitor backets) If you don't feel like putting screws into your TV's circuit board, use a [[rotary tool]] to cut the TV's circuit board plastic mounting slots out of the TV case. You can then screw, bolt, or twist-tie the mounting slots into your cabinet and place the circuit board back into the mounting slots.
*To get better antenna reception, run a 10' wire from the antenna input on your tv, out of the back of your cabinet along the complete height of the cabinet. You can staple or glue the wire flat to the cabinet. You can then paint the antenna wire if you choose.
*Use the TVs audio out to drive your cabinet's speakers. Run audio from your computer to your TV's audio in. You can cut the TV's audio wires to the puny TV speakers and then run the wires to the cabinet's mono or stereo speakers. The quality is low, but the quality on most original arcade cabinets was pretty low also.

==See Also==
* [[Video]]

[[Category:Video]]

Televisions

2008-05-04T19:49:12Z

Blanka: /* Things to consider when choosing a TV */

__NOTOC__
'''Televisions''' can be used in place of arcade monitors. Although not as authentic, televisions offer reasonable video performance with definite cost savings. While TVs do not appear as authentic as actual arcade monitors, they may appear more authentic than the output from a computer monitor with the added benefit that smaller Windows text boxes can still be read, unlike the output from an arcade monitor.

Note: When you live in Europe a (used) TV is an excellent choice for your cabinet, as you can use the SCART connector to feed the RGB signal directly to the screen. In this way, a TV is exactly the same as a "genuine" arcade monitor and is NOT less authentic.
In Europe, "real" arcade monitors are both very hard to get (especialy new) AND very expensive. This is a second great reason to select a TV as your monitor.

Some caution: The SCART expects 0,7 V levels for the signals, while most arcade PCB's (and the video amp in the J-PAC f.i.) deliver 5 V signals. Most TV's seem to have no problem with this but you could damage it. Connecting directly from a VGA card that delivers a 15 kHz signal (like the ArcadeVGA) is no problem at all since those produce signals of around 1V.

=Connection types=
When using a TV, make sure to match the outputs of your video card to the inputs of your television. Several types of video are available when using a TV, each with varying strengths and weaknesses. The more common formats are:

* [[Video Output#Coaxial|Coaxial]]
* [[Video Output#Composite Video (RCA)|Composite Video (RCA)]]
* [[Video Output#S-Video|S-Video]]
* [[Video Output#Component Video (YUV)|Component Video (YUV)]]
* [[Video Output#SCART|SCART]] (Europe)

The type of connection you can use may depend on the connections your videocard can offer and the connections your television accepts.

=Things to consider when choosing a TV=
Some things to consider when choosing a TV for your cabinet:
*How big is the case? Do you want to leave the TV in its case or strip the case off to fit a bigger tube in your cabinet? Is the TV case too deep to fit while your cabinet still has its back panel on?
*Where are the video inputs? Is the video-in port/jack on the TV in an inconvenient place? If it is on the front of the case? Will there be room between the front of the TV and the bezel?
*Does the TV return to the last channel/input when power is cut? If you unplug the TV and then plug it back in (or turn off and on its power strip), does it return to the channel/input it was on last, or does it default to a different channel?
*Will you use it for other media? Will you watch TV on your cab? Will you need to use the TV's remote?
*'''The most important question... will the TV automaticallly power itself back on after a "power failure." ''' If you turn the cabinet's power off, you want the TV to turn itself back on automatically when you later power the cabinet back on.
*If you chose a modern 100Hz, Full HD, LCD or Plasma TV it is wise to check image-processing delays. When you watch TV shows or a movie, this factor is not a problem. If an image is delayed 0.2 seconds, no one will notice. With gaming this can be a big problem though. Run [http://tft.vanity.dk/inputlag.html this test] to see how fast the TV response is. You need a 2 head displaycard with mirrored image. One must be connected to a CRT monitor as reference, which can be expected to deliver fast response. The other is connected to the TV you consider for the cabinet. Make a photo with a camera, and compare the timings on each screen. If the delay is more than 0.05 seconds, gaming will be seriously affected by the TV signal processing.

=TV hacks=
Be sure that you know what you are doing before attempting to work on any CRT display (like a TV or Arcade monitor) as various components in them can carry lethal electrical charges even when unplugged!
*Desolder IR tab from TV board, splice length of wire from board to IR tab, move IR tab into marquee or bezel area so it can receive remote signals better
*TVs generally fit into arcade monitor brackets. Remove TV from case, and bolt into old arcade monitor brackets for a solid installation
*(When mounting a TV onto arcade monitor backets) If you don't feel like putting screws into your TV's circuit board, use a [[rotary tool]] to cut the TV's circuit board plastic mounting slots out of the TV case. You can then screw, bolt, or twist-tie the mounting slots into your cabinet and place the circuit board back into the mounting slots.
*To get better antenna reception, run a 10' wire from the antenna input on your tv, out of the back of your cabinet along the complete height of the cabinet. You can staple or glue the wire flat to the cabinet. You can then paint the antenna wire if you choose.
*Use the TVs audio out to drive your cabinet's speakers. Run audio from your computer to your TV's audio in. You can cut the TV's audio wires to the puny TV speakers and then run the wires to the cabinet's mono or stereo speakers. The quality is low, but the quality on most original arcade cabinets was pretty low also.

==See Also==
* [[Video]]

[[Category:Video]]

Joysticks

2008-04-28T08:15:06Z

Blanka: Link update

A '''Joystick''' is a device to let you manually control direction of movement in an arcade game. This article describes the most common types of joysticks used in arcade cabinets and game systems.

==Conventional Digital Joysticks: 8-way, 4-way & 2-way==
[[image:Stick-principal.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Stick diagram by JoyMonkey]]
Conventional joysticks are fairly simple devices without which Pac-Man would be ghost-fodder. When the joystick shaft is moved in any direction, the lower end of the stick is levered in the opposite direction and makes contact with switches, these switches are what tells Pac-Man to move and in which direction.

[[image:Directions.gif|left]]By using four switches at the base of the joystick, 8 directions can be achieved; Up, Down, Left and Right as well as the four corner positions which are triggered by two switches being activated simultaneously. When you press the joystick diagonally up and to the right, both the "up switch" and the "right switch" are triggered simultaneously, indicating your diagonal move. Joysticks like this are known as 8-way joysticks.

Some joysticks were designed to specifically prevent the player from moving diagonally. For example, joysticks used in Pac-Man and Donkey Kong both have physical restrictions preventing the joystick from moving to the diagonals. Since the joysticks only allow movement in 4 directions (Up, Down, Left and Right) they are known as 4-way joysticks. While it is possible to use an 8-way joystick when playing 4-way games, it's not recommended, as accidentally hitting a diagonal with the joystick can create problems during gameplay, such as causing Mario to stand still or Pac-Man to become confused between moving up or to the side.

Other games, such as Defender, Joust, Mario Brothers and Galaga, used a 2-way joystick since movement was only necessary from left to right or up to down. While it may not be historically accurate, it is generally not a problem to use either 4-way or 8-way joysticks for these games.

Standard 8-way only joysticks:
:* [http://retroblast.com/reviews/joysticks/happcompetition.html Happ Competition], [http://www.retroblast.com/reviews/joysticks/happultimate.html Happ Ultimate (can be ordered in 8 way, 4-way, or 2-way models], [http://retroblast.com/reviews/joysticks/wico.html Wico 8-way Leafswitch Joystick (discontinued)].

Standard 4-way only joysticks:
:* Happ Ms.Pac/Galaga Reunion, Betson Ms.Pac/Galaga Reunion, [http://www.retroblast.com/reviews/joysticks/happultimate.html Happ Ultimate (can be ordered in 8 way, 4-way, or 2-way models],[http://www.retroblast.com/reviews/joysticks/wico.html Wico 4-Way Leafswitch (discontinued)].

====8-Way to 4-Way Switchable Joysticks====
Many 8-way joysticks that are sold can also be set to work in 4-way mode. There are two basic methods to change modes:

1) Changing a restrictor plate that only allows the joystick handle to be pushed in certain directions; or:

2) Changing the actuator (that's the small piece on the bottom end of the joystick shaft that makes contact with the switches) to only allow contact with one switch at a time.

Restrictor plate changes convert the joystick to "true" 4-way operation, and will give the best play. Actuator changes do not keep the handle from moving into the diagonal positions, this method only keeps the switches from being activated. The result is a "dead spot" in the corners, where the stick can be pushed, but no switches are hit. This is not much better than playing in standard 8-way mode, and is not reccomended. Adjusting these joystick usually involves opening up your control panel so you can access the lower section of the joystick base. Some models using a restrictor plate can be easily changed by hand once the control panel is open, while some others require the use of basic tools, like a screwdriver.

Joysticks that can be set to 4-way or 8-way operation via an actuator swap include:
:* [http://retroblast.com/reviews/joysticks/happsuper.html Happ Super], [http://www.retroblast.com/reviews/joysticks/happsp360.html Happ Perfect 360], [http://www.retroblast.com/reviews/joysticks/xgaming.html X-Gaming Joystick (X-Arcade)].

Joysticks that can be set to 4-way or 8-way operation via the restrictor plate include:
:* Suzo 500 (aka [http://ultimarc.com/controls.html Euro-Stik] or [http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65&products_id=197 Omni-Stik]), [http://retroblast.com/reviews/joysticks/ultimarc_tstik.html Ultimarc T-Stik], Ultimarc Mag-Stik, [http://retroblast.com/reviews/joysticks/ultimarc_jstik.html Ultimarc J-Stik], [http://www.himuragames.com/store_joysticks.php Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT], [http://www.himuragames.com/store_joysticks.php Seimitsu LS-32].

In the last few years, some companies have added to this feature to allow the joystick to be switchable from above the control panel in some way. This makes it simple for anyone to switch the joystick between 4-way to 8-way from game to game, without having to access 'the guts' of the control panel.

Conventional joysticks that can be switched from above the control panel like this include:
:* [http://retroblast.com/reviews/joysticks/ultimarc_tstik.html T-Stik Plus], [http://retroblast.com/reviews/joysticks/ultimarc_magstikplus_part1.html Mag-Stik Plus], [http://retroblast.com/reviews/joysticks/prodigy.html Omni-Stik Prodigy].

====[[TRON joystick]]s====
TRON arcade machines had 8-way trigger joysticks that were restricted to make it difficult to go diagonally. This was necessary because some of the four games in TRON were developed for 4-way sticks, while others were able to use 8-ways. [[TRON_joystick|More on TRON joysticks here.]]

Also see [[Wiring Push Buttons and Conventional Digital Joysticks]].

==Unconventional Digital Joysticks==
[[image:Inductivestickopen.jpg|right|thumb|Inside a Suzo Inductive Stick]]
====[http://www.suzo.com/suzo/product.asp?nP=4545 Suzo Inductive Joystick]====
Instead of using conventional microswitches, Suzo Inductive sticks employ the use of a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferrite ferrite ring] at the base of the joystick shaft. An oscillating magnetic field is induced in the ferrite ring by the main coil in the centre of the PCB around the opening. This oscillating field within the ferrite ring induces a current in one or more of the eight smaller coils on the PCB. The exact position of the joystick is determined by the strength of the current in each coil. A potentiometer can be adjusted so that diagonal positions are ignored (resulting in 4-way output) or that diagonals are accepted (resulting in 8-way output.) The sensitivity of 8-way operation can be refined using the potentiometer. It is completely silent and is easily switchable between 4-way and 8-way using the aforementioned pot located on the bottom plate of the joystick.
[[Image:Suzo_Inductive_restrictor.JPG|right|thumb|Suzo Inductive Octagonal Restrictor]]
It has an octagonal restrictor to assist in locating the desired directions. There are 6 pins for the connection which are labeled on the bottom plate of the joystick: Ground/Earth; +5 VDC; Left; Right; Up; Down. It is a short throw joystick with a max travel of 5 degrees from centre. The joystick is designed to be undermounted without taking the joystick apart; this requires a hole in the panel approx 44 mm or 1 3/4". The joystick handle was produced in two sizes, a 32 mm ball handle (suitable for cocktail cabinets), and a 38 mm ball handle. This joystick is no longer produced but as of May 2006 some were still available from Groovy Game Gear and TNT Amusements.

====[http://retroblast.com/reviews/joysticks/happsp360.html Happ Perfect 360 (P360)]====

The Perfect 360 joystick is an optical joystick, which means that the position of the handle is read by optical switches, instead of conventional leaf switches or microswitches. This gives near-silent operation, as the handle & actuator never touch anything.

These sticks have a very smooth feel, largely due to the "no touch" action. P360 joysticks have a round restrictor, instead of the more common square restriction found on many other modern joysticks. This round restriction adds to the smoothness factor, because there are no corners to feel.

Connection- P360 joys require a little more effort to hook up- in addition to the Up, Down, Left, Right and Ground connections on standard joysticks, the P360 also needs a +5 volts connection. This is easy enough to get, as encoders such as the I-Pac and KeyWiz provide a +5v header. PC power supplies produce +5v on the red wire of the drive connectors. There is also +5v power available on USB & PS2 cables. +5 volt power is easy to find.

History- The Perfect 360 started out as an aftermarket add-on kit for Wico leafswitch joysticks. Models were later added to the product line to convert Happ Super, Competition, and Ultimate sticks, and possibly others as well. Happ eventually bought the rights to the P360 technology, and discontinued the kits. Happ began producing a complete stick instead, with the top half of a Wico joystick base (no longer sold by Wico by then) mated to a P360 bottom half.

Interchangability- P360 handles and Wico handles have been found to be interchangable. There are also replacement handles available from SlikStik. Wico Pear-top sticks used the same pivot cones and spacer sleeves.

====[http://www.retroblast.com/Hardware/Ultimarc-UltraStik-360-Review.php Ultimarc UltraStik 360]====
[[Image:UltraStik1.jpg|right|thumb|Ultimarc's Ultrastik 360]]
This offering from Ultimarc operates on similar principals to an inductive joystick, but offers many more custom features. Using its USB interface and the provided software, it's possible to easily switch the joystick between 2-way, 4-way, 8-way, analog and even 4-way diagonal (Q*Bert) modes. User defineable custom modes are also available.

When used via USB, Windows thinks of this joystick as a gamepad and allows you to hook-up 8 buttons straight to the joystick; so no seperate encoder (IPac, Keywiz etc) is necessary.

==49-Way Joysticks==
Once used in a small handfull of Williams, Midway and Atari games, 49 way joysticks live in a no-man's land between digital and analog joysticks. 49-way joysticks do not, as the name might seem to imply, point in 49 different directions. The number 49 comes from the number of positions the stick can report to the game hardware, including positions somewhere ''between'' "dead center" and "pushed all the way". Imagine a 7x7 grid (that's 49 squares) and you've got it. Games that originally used this hardware benefited from the extra info the joystick could report by allowing the player to control the on-screen character with more precision- both in the form of better directional control (24 discrete directions possible, if you count dead center), and 3 levels of speed control, based on how far from center the stick was pushed. For example, in [http://www.klov.com/game_detail.php?letter=&game_id=9553 SiniStar], the player can make the ship move faster or slower, by varying how hard they push the stick, and the ship's movement is not limited to just 8 directions. Attempting to play this game (or others that originally used 49-way sticks) with a standard 8-way digital joystick tends to be frustrating- SiniStar is a very difficult game in the first place; take away the speed control and limit yourself to 8 directions, and it's ''really, really'' hard. More info on 49-way joysticks can be found at [http://urebelscum.speedhost.com/49waySticks.html What are 49-Way joysticks?] by URebelScum

Games that originally used 49-way joysticks include:

*SiniStar
*Blaster
*Arch Rivals
*Pigskin 621 A.D.
*Blitz
*Blitz '99
*Blitz 2000
*NFL Blitz 2000 Gold Edition
*NBA Showtime
*SportStation
*Gauntlet: Legends
*Gauntlet: Dark Legacy

For home gaming purposes, when paired with the [[Gamepad Encoders#GP Wiz49|GP Wiz49]] controller from [www.groovygamegear.com GroovyGameGear], these analog style joysticks have become a popular all-around stick. Using the GP-Wiz's various DRS modes, these joysticks can be easily switched between 8-way, 4-way, 2-way (vertical), 2-way (horizontal) and diagonal (Q*Bert style) modes without having to physically change the joystick hardware. This allows these sticks to be used to play any digital joystick games well. In additon, the two 49-way modes allow play for games that originally used 49-way sticks (and have emulator support that goes beyond 8-ways- not all 49-way games do), and also will play well for ''some'' games that originally used analog or Hall-Effect joysticks.

There are three varieties of 49-way joystick: Williams, Midway, and Happ.

The Williams are easy to distinguish- they use a distinctive rubber centering "spider" on the bottom, and have balltop handles. Red balltops come from SiniStar; Orange come from Arch Rivals. There are also Williams optical sticks out there with Turquoise and Yellow balltops. These ''look'' like 49-ways, complete with centering spider. However, these sticks do not have as many optics, and the pin connector is different, with fewer pins. These sticks are 8-way only. Turquoise ones most likely come from Bubbles, however, some early Joust games shipped with Turquoise and Yellow optical sticks.

The Midway and Happ 49-ways are ''very'' similar, in fact the Happ is just the Midway stick with a minor re-design. (Happ bought the rights to a lot of Midway's parts business several years ago.) The Midway sticks have a smaller diameter shaft, and the centering grommet has a correspondingly smaller hole. Both have a black bat top handle. Replacement handles are available in a variety of colors (Happ variety only) at [www.groovygamegear.com].

==Analog Joysticks==

Analog joysticks are not bound by the limits digital joysticks face. Digital joysticks can only point in 8 (or fewer; see above) directions, or no direction at all (centered). Analog joysticks can point in (theoretically) an unlimited number of directions. Furthermore, Analog joystics can discern how far the handle has been pushed from the center position. Games take advantage of these properties to give the player a much greater level of control over their on-screen character. For example, the bird in [http://www.klov.com/game_detail.php?letter=&game_id=9338 Road Runner] can run in more than just the 8 standard directions, and how far the player pushes the joystick from center determines how fast the Road Runner runs.

Most analog sticks use a pair of potentiometers, one to measure left-to-right movement (the X-axis), and one to measure forward-and-back movement (the Y-axis). A few games, however, used a "Hall Effect" stick. Hall effect sticks use Hall sensors and magnets to read the postion of the stick. The end result is the same, though- both types report to the game which direction and how far the stick is being pressed.

While the actual resolution of an analog joystick may be theoretically unlimited, the standard for analog joysticks connected to a PC is 256x256. Compare this to the 7x7 resolution of a 49-way joystick, or the 3x3 resolution of a standard 8-way joystick. This explains why it is difficult to play games that originally used analog controls with a standard 8-way stick; the stick simply can't control the on-screen character the way it was intended to be controlled. A 49-way stick is sufficient for ''some'' games that originally used analog controls, but not all of them. Road Runner, for example, can be adequately controlled with a 49-way joystick, as that stick would give the bird 24 directions to run in, and four speeds (including stopped)- which ought to be enough to outwit that dumb coyote. [http://www.klov.com/game_detail.php?letter=&game_id=9773 Star Wars], on the other hand, cannot be played well with a 49-way, as that stick will only aim the X-Wing's blasters at 49 equally spaced spots on the screen, leaving Tie Fighters that are in-between those spots un-shootable. (Star Wars actually used an analog [[Flight Yoke]], rather than an analog joystick, but these controls are electrically identical, and actually interchangeable as far as the game is concerned.)

Games that used analog joysticks include:

{|
|
*Afterburner
*CyberSled ''(2 analog sticks per player; two players = 4 sticks)''
*Food Fight
*Jurrasic Park
*Maneater
*Pursuit
*Quarterback
*Rail Chase
*Red Baron
*Solar Assault
*Space Harrier
*Star Wars Trilogy
|
*Steel Talons
*T-Mek
*Tail Gunner
*Tail Gunner II
*Thunderblade
*World Series Baseball

*Escape From The Planet Of The Robot Monsters ''(Hall-Effect)''
*I, Robot ''(Hall-Effect)''
*Road Runner ''(Hall-Effect)''
|
*Apache 3 ''(yoke)''
*Hydra ''(yoke)''
*Lock-On ''(yoke)''
*Star Wars ''(yoke)''
*Stun Runner ''(yoke)''
*The Empire Strikes Back ''(yoke)''
*The Return Of The Jedi ''(yoke)''
*Turbo-Sub ''(yoke)''
|}

==Rotary Joysticks==

There are two types of rotary joysticks that often get confused: Mechanical rotary sticks, and Optical rotary sticks. Either can be interfaced with a PC.

Mechanical rotary sticks are the type that most people remember from games like Ikari Warriors. They have a 12-position rotary switch attached to the bottom of the joystick, which is turned by rotating the handle. Each turn of the handle is accompanied by a clicking sound, and distinct tactile feedback that lets the player know that a turn has been registered.

The SNK games used a stick called the LS-30, with yellow octagonal tops. The Data East games used the same sticks, but with a yellow barrel shaped top. Wico used to make a rotary stick, with a yellow balltop These were basically standard Wico leaf sticks, with the rotary switch added to the bottom. Happ still sells a mechanical rotary stick, which is basically a Happ Super with a rotary switch added to the bottom. Fl0yd at BYOAC figured out how to attach the rotary parts from a Happ rotary to the bottom of a Happ 49-way joystick, and still sells the kits to modify your own Happ 49-way.

Optical rotary sticks have an optical encoder wheel, similar to a spinner, instead. Caliber .50 used a stick called the Loop-24, with green octagonal tops.

Most games that used rotary joysticks used the rotary function to determine which direction the on-screen character was aiming. This allowed the player to shoot in a different direction from the direction of motion, all with one hand.

===Mechanical Rotary joystick games (LS-30, Happ Mechanical Rotary sticks)===
*Battle Field
*Top Gunner (bootleg)
*World Wars
*Ikari Warriors
*Victory Road
*Heavy Barrel
*Gondomania
*Bermuda Triangle
*Time Soldiers
*Guerilla War
*SAR - Search And Rescue
*Downtown
*Victory Road
*Midnight Resistance
*Ikari III - The Rescue
*Exterminator (unknown whether this used mechanical or optical rotary sticks)
*TNK III
*Battle Field (Japanese verion of Time Soldiers)
*Dogosoken (Japanese version of Victory Road)
*Makyou Senshi (Japanese version of Gondomania)
*Guevara (Japanese version of Guerrilla War)

===Optical Rotary games (Loop-24 or Happ Optical rotary sticks)===
*Caliber .50
*Touchdown Fever
*Touchdown Fever II

===Other "Rotary" games===
These games did ''not'' use rotary joysticks,
but are sometimes confused with rotary games.

*Frontline (Taito Aim-n-Fire)
*The Tin Star (Taito Aim-n-Fire)
*Wild Western (Taito Aim-n-Fire)
*Sherrif (rotary switch)
*Bandido (rotary switch, clone of Sherrif)
*Xybots (Twist-to-Turn)
*720 (Optical 720 spinner/joy hybrid)

==Mounting Joysticks==

==European vs US vs Japanese Joysticks==

Common US joysticks include those produced by:

*Happ
*Wico
*Atari
*Midway

[Most of the Happ joysticks (including the Supers and Competitions) are actually manufactured by a Spanish company ([http://www.industrias-lorenzo.com Industrias-Lorenzo]) and are therefore technically European joysticks]

Common European joysticks include those produced by:

*Suzo

Common Japanese joysticks include those produced by:

*Sanwa
*Semitsu

==Discontinued Joysticks and Reproductions==

==See Also==
* [[Controls]]

[[Category:Controls]]
[[Category:Index]]

SketchUp Tips

2008-04-25T13:34:55Z

Blanka: Use a semicolon to seperate length and width, a regular colon does not work

'''(this is a recently created page, allow some time for me to put the main content in place - ARTIFACT)'''

== Overview ==
Sketchup is a free, yet very powerful CAD (Computer Aided Design) tool. The main advantage of SketchUp over traditional CAD software is its focus on using sketching / drawing as the primary way to design 3D models. A tagline seen a few years back was ''"3D For The Rest of Us!"''. You do not need to have any prior knowledge of 3D modeling to start learning SketchUp.

=== Free Version vs Commercial Version ===
Google has recently purchased SketchUp and has released the unlimited FREE version, perfect for your arcade design needs. A PRO (= not free) version also exists, but it is '''not''' needed if you are not planning to export your 3D models to another CAD/3D application, or import 3D models into SketchUp. Why would google acquire a 3D modeling tool company? Their Google Earth project allows you to place 3D buildings on the planet earth, virtually. Offering SketchUp to the mainstream Google audience lowers the entry bar of contributing models. They added a ''"Place on Google Earth"'' feature to make this as easy as 123. Additionally, an online gallery (warehouse) is available to save your models to if you want to share them with other SketchUp users.

== Purpose of This Page ==
There is plenty of existing SketchUp tutorial material available on the internet. Why this page then? Us arcade cabinet and Control Panel designers/builders have special needs! We are not designing houses/buildings for Google Earth :) ... This page is not intended as a complete reference. Instead, it is a collection of the '''must-know'''' tips, specifically for people designing Arcade Control Panels and Arcade Cabinets.

== Camera ==
The camera is a key element of your experience using SketchUp. It is essential to make yourself familiar with its two main display modes

=== Modes ===
You should know about the Parralel Projection and Perspective camera modes. They are both useful to successfully designing your arcade cabinet or control panel using SketchUp. To swithc modes, click on the Camera menu.

'''Parallel Projection example:'''

[[Image:Sketchup_parralel.jpg]]

Notice how flat things look. You can quickly spot if things line up correctly. Another interesting fact about this mode is that snapping ("inference") seems to work more predictably in this camera mode. This is the best mode to use when you draw rectangles, lines, etc.

'''Perspective example'''

[[Image:Sketchup_perspective.jpg]]

This is how you ''see'' in real life. Use this to check how your design looks, but be careful as you may think elements are lined up even when they are not. Although sketchup allows you to draw (rectangles, lines, etc) in Perspective, results are more predictable if you switch to Parallel Projection camera mode to draw.

=== Navigating While Modeling ===

== Groups and Components ==
Always group your shapes. Without grouping, you will eventually destroy your shapes by mistake. Even 1 shape should be grouped to "solidify" it. To group, double click on a shape to select all of its faces and edges, right-click (or click on Edit Menu) > Make Group. This allows you to select with one click, move, scale (etc) your shape a lot more easily than if you leave your faces and edges ungrouped.

Use Components. Built something you want to reuse (button, cabinet side panel, etc)? Right click (or click on Edit Menu) > Make Component. Give your component a name, and you will then be able to reuse it again many times in your model via the Components Panel.

=== Entering Exact Measurements ===
'''Type measurements into SketchUp every time you draw or extrude something'''. You drew a plywood base rectangle? Type '''"8'; 4'"''' and press ENTER immediately after, and it will resize the rectangle to that '''exact''' measurement... Extruded the width of the plywood base? Type ''"3/4"'' and press ENTER immediately after, and it will be exactly 3/4" extruded. This is the single most powerful feature in this program. It works throughout SketchUp's editing actions (Scale, Move, etc). Remember to do this each time you commit to an edit. The number you type is displayed in the bottom right corner (this is not a true edit box, it just displays as you type). You can type and press enter again if you've made a mistake. Do not click anywhere else until you are sure of the measurements you entered as it would disable the ability to do so.

=== Tape Measure Tool ===
[[Image:Tape_measure_sketchup.png]]

As you enter exact measurements every time you create or edit, your model/scene can be measured using the Tape Measure tool. Simply click twice to see the distance between the two points you clicked. The number is displayed in the bottom right corner. This is a '''key''' tool to master and use. You will use this a lot prior to cutting your boards and while building to guide you. [http://download.sketchup.com/OnlineDoc/gsu_win/I-Construction_Tools/ConTool-Measure.htm Follow this written tutorial to learn how to use the Tape Measure Tool].

== Arcade Cabinet Projects Designed With SketchUp ==
* [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=68794.0 ARTIFACT Game Museum (upright cabinet from scratch)] by BYOAC member ARTIFACT
* [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=70093.0 JIMBO's cabinet] by BYOAC member JIMBO

== More Tips and Tutorials ==
* [http://groups.google.com/group/sketchup Sketchup Help Group]
* [http://sketchup.google.com/sptutorials.html Self-Paced Basic Video Tutorials]

[[Category:Building]]

Keyboard Encoders

2008-04-25T07:52:57Z

Blanka: Shuffeling in alphabetical order

Keyboard Encoders offer the functionality of a keyboard hack in an easy-to-use form. They offer several benefits including reduction of ghosting, ease in connecting controls and time savings.

==I-PAC2==
[[image:Ipac2 diag.jpg|right|thumb|I-PAC2 (PS/2 version)]]
Ultimarc's IPac2 was the first full-featured affordable keyboard encoder to hit the BYOAC community and quickly became the hook-up of choice. Up until it's release most people were still hacking keyboards, since most keyboard encoders came with a high price tag or were difficult to find.

It's still a very popular choice and comes in PS/2 and USB flavours.

Both versions have 28 inputs. They are all programmable and are designated as 2 joysticks, 8 buttons each, plus coin1, coin2, start1, start2. One of the inputs is assigned as a shift key to access an alternate code set (usefull if you want to keep administrative buttons to a minimum on your control panel). Both models also have connectors for NumLock, CapsLock and ScrollLock keyboard LEDs.The PS/2 model includes a very usefull keyboard passthrough.

'''Relevant Link: [http://www.ultimarc.com/ipac1.html Ultimarc's I-PAC2 Page]'''

==I-PAC4==
[[image:ipac4.jpg|right|thumb|I-PAC4 (PS/2 version)]]
The I-PAC4 is designed for 4-player panels or where large numbers of inputs are needed. It also comes in PS/2 and USB versions.

Both versions have 56 inputs and are all programmable and designated 4 joysticks, 8 buttons each plus coin 1,2,3,4 and start 1,2,3,4. Two of the inputs are assigned as shift keys to access two separate codes sets covering the player 1,2 and the player 3,4 inputs, usefull if you want to keep administrative buttons to a minimum on your control panel

'''Relevant Link: [http://www.ultimarc.com/ipac1.html Ultimarc's I-PAC4 Page]'''

==I-PAC VE==
[[image:ipac_ve.jpg|right|thumb|I-PAC VE]]
This "value edition" of the I-PAC only comes in USB form. It is suitable for all Windows versions, Linux, and Mac, but not DOS. You may require a standard A-B USB cable (check the Ultimarc website for details regarding this).

One important difference with this model is that when a custom codeset is used, it is stored in RAM instead of EEPROM, meaning that storage needs refreshing after power-down (this does not apply if you always use the built-in default MAME code set of course, the settings revert to MAME on power-down)

This model has 32 inputs. They are all programmable and are designated as 2 joysticks, 8 buttons each, plus coin1, coin2, start1, start2. One of the inputs is assigned as a shift key to access an alternate code set (usefull if you want to keep administrative buttons to a minimum on your control panel). This model also has connectors for NumLock, CapsLock and ScrollLock keyboard LEDs.

'''Relevant Link: [http://www.ultimarc.com/ipacve.html Ultimarc's I-PAC VE Page]'''

==J-PAC==
[[image:jpac.jpg|right|thumb|J-PAC]]
The J-PAC is an encoder which allows plug-in connection of a [http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/wiki/JAMMA JAMMA] arcade cabinet to a VGA card and keyboard port or USB port on a PC motherboard, and incorporates all the functions of the standard I-PAC's and has a dual interface for PS/2 and USB.

'''Relevant Link: [http://www.ultimarc.com/jpac.html Ultimarc's J-PAC Page]'''

==KeyWiz MAX==
[[image:kwmax.jpg|right|thumb|KeyWiz MAX]]

A high-performance keyboard encoder produced by Groovy Game Gear. It features screw terminal headers on the PCB for easy hookup and a switch to allow the "pass-thru" use of a connected keyboard.

The KeyWiz line of keyboard encoders feature 32 inputs and connect to a PC via the keyboard PS2 port. The Keywiz has the default MAME codeset hard-coded by default. Custom codesets can easily be created and loaded into RAM on the Keywiz via its included software. This software can be placed in the Windows Startup folder to automatically load a custom keyset each time the computer is booted.

The Keywiz uses a SHAZAAM key to allow most of the inputs to have alternate keycodes. For example, pushing the SHAZAAM key and the Player 1 button #2 is the same as hitting the TAB key. This function allows many "administrative" keys to be accessed without dedicated pushbuttons to clutter the control panel.

'''Relevant Link: [http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=76_80&products_id=199 GroovyGameGear's KeyWiz MAX Page]'''

==KeyWiz Eco 2==
[[image:kweco2.jpg|right|thumb|KeyWiz Eco 2]]

A high-performance keyboard encoder produced by Groovy Game Gear. This encoder boasts the same performance as the KeyWiz Max, but without keyboard pass-thru or screw terminal headers on the PCB. The KeyWiz Eco is available in a "solder" and "no solder" version.

The KeyWiz line of keyboard encoders feature 32 inputs and connect to a PC via the keyboard PS2 port. The Keywiz has the default MAME codeset hard-coded by default. Custom codesets can easily be created and loaded into RAM on the Keywiz via its included software. This software can be placed in the Windows Startup folder to automatically load a custom keyset each time the computer is booted.

The Keywiz uses a SHAZAAM key to allow most of the inputs to have alternate keycodes. For example, pushing the SHAZAAM key and the Player 1 button #2 is the same as hitting the TAB key. This function allows many "administrative" keys to be accessed without dedicated pushbuttons to clutter the control panel.

'''Relevant Link: [http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=76_80&products_id=200 GroovyGameGear's KeyWiz Eco 2 Page]'''

==KE18==
[[image:ke18.jpg|right|thumb|KE18]]

PS/2 or USB or both?

Number of Inputs

Designated for anything?

Shift keys?

Additional features?

'''Relevant Link: [http://www.hagstromelectronics.com/products/ke18.html Hagstrom's KE18 Page]'''

==KE24==
[[image:ke24.jpg|right|thumb|KE24]]

PS/2 or USB or both?

Number of Inputs

Designated for anything?

Shift keys?

Additional features?

'''Relevant Link: [http://www.hagstromelectronics.com/products/ke24.html Hagstrom's KE24 Page]'''

==KE-USB36==
[[image:keusb36.jpg|right|thumb|KE-USB36]]
The KE-USB36 emulates a standard USB Keyboard and Mouse device. Any keystroke may also be modified with a Ctrl, Alt, or Shift function, or any combination of the three modifiers. In addition to keystrokes, inputs may be programmed to emulate mouse Left, Middle, and Right buttons.

The KE-USB36 features a Trackball input for conversion of this device to mouse movement. (A Spinner may be used instead of a Trackball)

The KE-USB36 is programmed through the USB port of the PC using the programming application included with the unit. Once programmed, the configuration is stored on the KE-USB36 in non-volatile memory.

All power for the KE-USB36 is taken from the PC USB port, so no other voltage supply is required.

'''Relevant Link: [http://www.hagstromelectronics.com/products/ke_usb36.html Hagstrom's KE-USB36 Page]'''

==KE72==
[[image:ke72.jpg|right|thumb|KE72]]
The KE72 features 72 individual inputs. Each input may be programmed to output a single keystroke, or a sequence (macro) of keystrokes. For macros, each input may generate up to 32 keystrokes when activated, and up to 16 keystrokes when the input is released. The KE72 is able to emulate any keystroke found on a standard 101 or 104 key keyboard.

'''Relevant Link: [http://www.hagstromelectronics.com/products/ke72.html Hagstrom's KE72 Page]'''

==LP24==
[[image:lp24.jpg|right|thumb|LP24]]

PS/2 or USB or both?

Number of Inputs

Designated for anything?

Shift keys?

Additional features?

'''Relevant Link: [http://www.hagstromelectronics.com/products/lp24.html Hagstrom's LP24 Page]'''

==Mini-PAC==
A very versatile keyboard/trackball/spinner encoder. The Mini-PAC interfaces either over USB or over PS2 (PS2 only works for buttons). The interface does not suffer from ghosting and matrix side-effects common to regular USB keyboards. The board is actually a small-size I-PAC2 with 3 optical interfaces added.

It interfaces 28 buttons and 3 analogue inputs for a trackball and a spinner.

It has default MAME style input mapping and a second programmable mapping. Utilities for programming under DOS, Windows, OSX and Linux are delivered with the Mini-PAC

It has a shift function for adding secondary functions to connected buttons.

An optional harness is available to easy connect the Mini-PAC to 28 buttons/joyctick switches and to 3 analogue controls.

'''Relevant Link: [http://ultimarc.com/minipac.html Ultimarc's Mini-PAC Page]'''

==See Also==
* [[Controls]]

[[Category:Controls]]

Keyboard Encoders

2008-04-25T07:47:34Z

Blanka:

Keyboard Encoders offer the functionality of a keyboard hack in an easy-to-use form. They offer several benefits including reduction of ghosting, ease in connecting controls and time savings.

==I-PAC2==
[[image:Ipac2 diag.jpg|right|thumb|I-PAC2 (PS/2 version)]]
Ultimarc's IPac2 was the first full-featured affordable keyboard encoder to hit the BYOAC community and quickly became the hook-up of choice. Up until it's release most people were still hacking keyboards, since most keyboard encoders came with a high price tag or were difficult to find.

It's still a very popular choice and comes in PS/2 and USB flavours.

Both versions have 28 inputs. They are all programmable and are designated as 2 joysticks, 8 buttons each, plus coin1, coin2, start1, start2. One of the inputs is assigned as a shift key to access an alternate code set (usefull if you want to keep administrative buttons to a minimum on your control panel). Both models also have connectors for NumLock, CapsLock and ScrollLock keyboard LEDs.The PS/2 model includes a very usefull keyboard passthrough.

'''Relevant Link: [http://www.ultimarc.com/ipac1.html Ultimarc's I-PAC2 Page]'''

==I-PAC4==
[[image:ipac4.jpg|right|thumb|I-PAC4 (PS/2 version)]]
The I-PAC4 is designed for 4-player panels or where large numbers of inputs are needed. It also comes in PS/2 and USB versions.

Both versions have 56 inputs and are all programmable and designated 4 joysticks, 8 buttons each plus coin 1,2,3,4 and start 1,2,3,4. Two of the inputs are assigned as shift keys to access two separate codes sets covering the player 1,2 and the player 3,4 inputs, usefull if you want to keep administrative buttons to a minimum on your control panel

'''Relevant Link: [http://www.ultimarc.com/ipac1.html Ultimarc's I-PAC4 Page]'''

==I-PAC VE==
[[image:ipac_ve.jpg|right|thumb|I-PAC VE]]
This "value edition" of the I-PAC only comes in USB form. It is suitable for all Windows versions, Linux, and Mac, but not DOS. You may require a standard A-B USB cable (check the Ultimarc website for details regarding this).

One important difference with this model is that when a custom codeset is used, it is stored in RAM instead of EEPROM, meaning that storage needs refreshing after power-down (this does not apply if you always use the built-in default MAME code set of course, the settings revert to MAME on power-down)

This model has 32 inputs. They are all programmable and are designated as 2 joysticks, 8 buttons each, plus coin1, coin2, start1, start2. One of the inputs is assigned as a shift key to access an alternate code set (usefull if you want to keep administrative buttons to a minimum on your control panel). This model also has connectors for NumLock, CapsLock and ScrollLock keyboard LEDs.

'''Relevant Link: [http://www.ultimarc.com/ipacve.html Ultimarc's I-PAC VE Page]'''

==J-PAC==
[[image:jpac.jpg|right|thumb|J-PAC]]
The J-PAC is an encoder which allows plug-in connection of a [http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/wiki/JAMMA JAMMA] arcade cabinet to a VGA card and keyboard port or USB port on a PC motherboard, and incorporates all the functions of the standard I-PAC's and has a dual interface for PS/2 and USB.

'''Relevant Link: [http://www.ultimarc.com/jpac.html Ultimarc's J-PAC Page]'''

==KeyWiz MAX==
[[image:kwmax.jpg|right|thumb|KeyWiz MAX]]

A high-performance keyboard encoder produced by Groovy Game Gear. It features screw terminal headers on the PCB for easy hookup and a switch to allow the "pass-thru" use of a connected keyboard.

The KeyWiz line of keyboard encoders feature 32 inputs and connect to a PC via the keyboard PS2 port. The Keywiz has the default MAME codeset hard-coded by default. Custom codesets can easily be created and loaded into RAM on the Keywiz via its included software. This software can be placed in the Windows Startup folder to automatically load a custom keyset each time the computer is booted.

The Keywiz uses a SHAZAAM key to allow most of the inputs to have alternate keycodes. For example, pushing the SHAZAAM key and the Player 1 button #2 is the same as hitting the TAB key. This function allows many "administrative" keys to be accessed without dedicated pushbuttons to clutter the control panel.

'''Relevant Link: [http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=76_80&products_id=199 GroovyGameGear's KeyWiz MAX Page]'''

==KeyWiz Eco 2==
[[image:kweco2.jpg|right|thumb|KeyWiz Eco 2]]

A high-performance keyboard encoder produced by Groovy Game Gear. This encoder boasts the same performance as the KeyWiz Max, but without keyboard pass-thru or screw terminal headers on the PCB. The KeyWiz Eco is available in a "solder" and "no solder" version.

The KeyWiz line of keyboard encoders feature 32 inputs and connect to a PC via the keyboard PS2 port. The Keywiz has the default MAME codeset hard-coded by default. Custom codesets can easily be created and loaded into RAM on the Keywiz via its included software. This software can be placed in the Windows Startup folder to automatically load a custom keyset each time the computer is booted.

The Keywiz uses a SHAZAAM key to allow most of the inputs to have alternate keycodes. For example, pushing the SHAZAAM key and the Player 1 button #2 is the same as hitting the TAB key. This function allows many "administrative" keys to be accessed without dedicated pushbuttons to clutter the control panel.

'''Relevant Link: [http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=76_80&products_id=200 GroovyGameGear's KeyWiz Eco 2 Page]'''

==KE72==
[[image:ke72.jpg|right|thumb|KE72]]
The KE72 features 72 individual inputs. Each input may be programmed to output a single keystroke, or a sequence (macro) of keystrokes. For macros, each input may generate up to 32 keystrokes when activated, and up to 16 keystrokes when the input is released. The KE72 is able to emulate any keystroke found on a standard 101 or 104 key keyboard.

'''Relevant Link: [http://www.hagstromelectronics.com/products/ke72.html Hagstrom's KE72 Page]'''

==KE24==
[[image:ke24.jpg|right|thumb|KE24]]

PS/2 or USB or both?

Number of Inputs

Designated for anything?

Shift keys?

Additional features?

'''Relevant Link: [http://www.hagstromelectronics.com/products/ke24.html Hagstrom's KE24 Page]'''

==KE18==
[[image:ke18.jpg|right|thumb|KE18]]

PS/2 or USB or both?

Number of Inputs

Designated for anything?

Shift keys?

Additional features?

'''Relevant Link: [http://www.hagstromelectronics.com/products/ke18.html Hagstrom's KE18 Page]'''

==LP24==
[[image:lp24.jpg|right|thumb|LP24]]

PS/2 or USB or both?

Number of Inputs

Designated for anything?

Shift keys?

Additional features?

'''Relevant Link: [http://www.hagstromelectronics.com/products/lp24.html Hagstrom's LP24 Page]'''

==KE-USB36==
[[image:keusb36.jpg|right|thumb|KE-USB36]]
The KE-USB36 emulates a standard USB Keyboard and Mouse device. Any keystroke may also be modified with a Ctrl, Alt, or Shift function, or any combination of the three modifiers. In addition to keystrokes, inputs may be programmed to emulate mouse Left, Middle, and Right buttons.

The KE-USB36 features a Trackball input for conversion of this device to mouse movement. (A Spinner may be used instead of a Trackball)

The KE-USB36 is programmed through the USB port of the PC using the programming application included with the unit. Once programmed, the configuration is stored on the KE-USB36 in non-volatile memory.

All power for the KE-USB36 is taken from the PC USB port, so no other voltage supply is required.

'''Relevant Link: [http://www.hagstromelectronics.com/products/ke_usb36.html Hagstrom's KE-USB36 Page]'''

==Mini-PAC==
A very versatile keyboard/trackball/spinner encoder. The Mini-PAC interfaces either over USB or over PS2 (PS2 only works for buttons). The interface does not suffer from ghosting and matrix side-effects common to regular USB keyboards. The board is actually a small-size I-PAC2 with 3 optical interfaces added.

It interfaces 28 buttons and 3 analogue inputs for a trackball and a spinner.

It has default MAME style input mapping and a second programmable mapping. Utilities for programming under DOS, Windows, OSX and Linux are delivered with the Mini-PAC

It has a shift function for adding secondary functions to connected buttons.

An optional harness is available to easy connect the Mini-PAC to 28 buttons/joyctick switches and to 3 analogue controls.

'''Relevant Link: [http://ultimarc.com/minipac.html Ultimarc's Mini-PAC Page]'''

==See Also==
* [[Controls]]

[[Category:Controls]]

Front-Ends

2008-04-25T07:30:29Z

Blanka: /* Front-end Software */

A '''front-end''' is a menu system that allows players to select from a list of games. Once a game is selected from the list, the game is launched using an appropriate emulator. Here is a list of the various emulators and a brief description of each. If needed, further information will be found on the individual page for that emulator.

Many front-ends make use of a collection of [[Screens, Titles & Extras|screenshots, photos of cabinet and scans of flyers]]. These additional files can add extra information on the history or appearance of the original arcade cabinet or console game.

== Front-end Software ==
Below is the front-end software comparison table. Click on the software's name for detailed information about that software. Please be aware that this may be incomplete! The individual pages will have the software's homepage for you to verify any information or questions you may have!

''Note: Any unknown information in the table is filled with placeholders (placeholders are shown in italics).''

{| Width="100%" valign="top" border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="3" style="background:white; color:black; border:1px solid silver;"
|- style="background:navy; color:white"
| '''Software'''
| '''OS'''
| '''Type1'''
| '''Monitor Orientation'''
| '''Emulators3'''
| '''Other Features4'''

|-
| [[AdvanceMenu]]
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]][[Image:OS linux icon.gif]][[Image:OS DOS icon.gif]]
| Open Source
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]
| CMD
| AM CAB LR MR VID

|-
| [[Arcade.EXE]]
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Open Source
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| CMD
| ''Placeholder''

|-
| [[ArcadeOS]]
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]][[Image:OS DOS icon.gif]]
| Open Source
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]
| CMD
| AM CAB LCD LR MR

|-
| [[ArcadEpic]]
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Freeware
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| CMD
| CAB JB MR VID

|-
| [[AtomicFE]]
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Freeware
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]
| CMD PC
| CAB DEV JB LED LR MR ST VID

|-
| [[CabFE]]
| [[Image:OS linux icon.gif]]
| Open Source
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| CMD
| ''Placeholder''

|-
| [[Dragon King]]
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Freeware
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| CMD
| CAB DEV LR MR SW VID

|-
| [[EmuLaunch]]
| [[Image:OS_apple_icon.gif]]
| Freeware for personal use
| Emulator dependent
| Uses Finder to open ROMS in 15 arcade and console emulators
| SW

|-
| [[Emulaxian/3D Arcade]]
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Freeware
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]
| CMD
| CAB MR SW

|-
| [[Emuloader]]
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Freeware
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| MAME Daphne Zinc AGEMAME PinMAME
| None

|-
| [[Fronty]]
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Freeware
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]
| CMD PC
| CAB DEV LCD MR ST

|-
| [[GameLauncher]]
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]][[Image:OS linux icon.gif]][[Image:OS DOS icon.gif]]
| Open Source
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]
| CMD
| CAB LR MR

|-
| [[GameEx]]
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Shareware ($25)
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]
| CMD PC
| CAB DEV JB LCD LED LR MR ST SW VID

|-
| [[Khameleon]]
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Open Source
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| CMD
| CAB DEV LR MR SW VID

|-
| [[Kymaera]]
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]][[Image:OS linux icon.gif]][[Image:OS DOS icon.gif]]
| Open Source
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]
| CMD
| AM CAB LR MR ST SW VID

|-
| [[MaLa]]
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Freeware
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]
| CMD PC
| CAB DEV JB LCD LED LR MR ST SW VID

|-
| [[Maximus Arcade]]
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Commercial ($25)
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| 39+ arcade and console emulators
| CAB DEV JB MR ST VID

|-
| [[MAME32]]
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Freeware
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| MAME only
| DEV MR

|-
| [[Mamewah]]
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Freeware
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| CMD PC
| CAB DEV LR MR ST VID

|-
| [[PyreCade]]
| [[Image:OS linux icon.gif]][[Image:OS windows icon.gif]][[Image:OS_apple_icon.gif]]
| OpenSource
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| Mame <.106uq2
| ''Placeholder''

|-
| [[Ultrastyle]]
| [[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]
| Open Source
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| MAME only
| CAB DEV MR VID

|-
| [[XMAME-GUI]]
| [[Image:Java.gif]]
| Open Source
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| SDL-MAME Only
| ''Placeholder''

|-
| [[Wah!Cade]]
| [[Image:OS linux icon.gif]][[Image:OS windows icon.gif]][[Image:OS_apple_icon.gif]]
| Open Source
| [[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]
| CMD
| CAB DEV LR MR ST VID
|}

''Homepages for these FEs are gone, and are not active anymore:''

* ''[[ArcadeFE]] - Windows-only MAME front-end''
* ''[[ArcadeFX]] - Windows-only MAME front-end''

'''1)''' Type:
* '''Open Source:''' is fully functional software with source code included.
* '''Freeware:''' is fully functional without payment and without nag screens and ads.
* '''Shareware:''' has limited functionality (or have nags) until payment is made.
* '''Commercial:''' software is fully functional for a limited time, after which payment must be made.

'''2)''' Skinnable:
* '''Basic: ''' change only the background, and maybe text size and/or color
* '''Advanced: ''' change all artwork. The interface elements are locked in place, although buttons may be able to be resized
* '''Full: ''' change all artwork, all interface elements can be changed (resize, moveable and resolution).

'''3)''' Emulators:
* If '''CMD''' is shown, this front-end can run all command line based emulators.
* If '''PC''' is shown, it can run PC games as well (using bat and/or shortcuts files).

'''4)''' Other Features:
*'''AM''' - Native arcade monitor support without ArcadeVGA card
*'''CAB''' - Mouse and keyboard-free operation (for cabinets)
*'''DEV''' - Under active development
*'''JB''' - Integrated jukebox
*'''LCD''' - LCD screen, such as those found at http://www.seetron.com/
*'''LED''' - Front-end can control a LED controller
*'''LR''' - Low Resolutions (below 640 pixels wide)
*'''MR''' - Multiple Resolutions
*'''ST''' - Skin tool included
*'''SW''' - Skinnable without tool
*'''VID''' - Video snapshots (movies)

== See Also ==
* [[Software]]

[[Category:Index]]
[[Category:Software]]