BYOAC OLD Wiki - User contributions [en]

Wiring/Soldering

2006-04-15T08:20:42Z

Grumble: /* Multimeter */

==Multimeter==
[[image:Multimeter.jpg|right|thumb|Digital Multimeter|60px]]
: A multimeter is a device that measures voltage, current and resistance between two points in a circuit. It is an indispensible tool when building a control panel as it will allow you to test your wiring connections as you go. There are many different models available and some have optional features, but there are essentially two kinds of multimeter, digital or analog. Whichever kind you buy, make sure it has a continuity function as this will allow you to test whether two points are electrically connected.

Wiring/Soldering

2006-04-15T08:19:58Z

Grumble:

==Multimeter==
[[image:Multimeter.jpg|right|thumb|Digital Multimeter|60px]]
: A multimeter is a device that measures voltage, current and resistance between two points in a circuit. It is an indispensible tool when building a control panel as it will allow you to test your wiring connections as you go. There are many different models available and some have optional features, but there are essentially two kinds of multimeter, digital or analog. Whichever kind you buy; make sure it has a continuity function as this will allow you to test whether two points are electrically connected.

File:Multimeter.jpg

2006-04-15T08:18:52Z

Grumble:

Wiring/Soldering

2006-04-15T08:13:45Z

Grumble:

==Multimeter==

: A multimeter is a device that measures voltage, current and resistance between two points in a circuit. It is an indispensible tool when building a control panel as it will allow you to test your wiring connections as you go. There are many different models available and some have optional features, but there are essentially two kinds of multimeter, digital or analog. Whichever kind you buy; make sure it has a continuity function as this will allow you to test whether two points are electrically connected.

2006-04-15T07:49:03Z

Grumble: /* '''Tools''' */

{| cellpadding="10" width="100%"
| style="width:50%" |
=='''The Basics'''==
A lot of people will look at an arcade cabinet and say "Hey, that looks easy- it's just a screen, some wood and some buttons.", but arcade cabinets aren't quite as simple as many people think. Here's a good place to start learning about the various ins and outs of arcade machines in general.
* [[Arcade Cabinet 101]]
* [[Basic guide to build a cabinet]]
* [[Desktop control panel|No space for a full cab? Try a desktop control panel]]
* [[Bemani or DDR arcade|The Bemani/Dance arcade experience]]
* [[Connecting a PC to an Arcade Cabinet|Connecting a PC to an Arcade Cabinet (an overview)]]
* [[JAMMA]]
* [[Restoration]]
* [[Vendors|Vendors/Kits/Parts/Artwork]]
* [[Glossary]]

=='''The BYOAC community'''==
Building your own arcade is fun, building it and sharing your thoughts is even more fun! If you have questions that even the wiki cannot answer, take a look at the community. The articles in this section can give you some pointers and insight in the BYOC community.
*[[The history of BYOAC community]]
*[[BYOAC forum|What can you find in the forums]]
*[[Community projects]]

=='''Building Materials'''==
If you're planing on building an arcade cabinet from scratch, these are some of the materials you might end up using for various elements of the cabinet.
* [[Wood products]]
* [[Plastics]]
* [[Finishes]]
* [[Electronic Components]]

=='''Tools'''==
Building your own arcade machine is no simple task and requires the correct tools as well as the knowledge of how to use each one correctly and safely. Hopefully you already own some of these tools and are well versed in their operation. If not, here's a few things you might want to add to your shopping list.
* [[Project Arcade|Project Arcade - The Book]]

* [[Hand Tools]]
** [[Safety Equipment|Safety Equipment]]
** [[Marking Tools|Marking Tools]]
** [[Measuring Devices|Measuring Devices]]
** [[Sandpaper/Sanding Blocks|Sandpaper/Sanding Blocks]]
** [[Clamps|Clamps]]
** [[Sawhorses/Stands|Sawhorses/Stands ]]
** [[Wire Strippers/Crimpers|Wire Strippers/Crimpers]]
** [[Hammer/Screwdriver|Hammer/Screwdriver]]
** [[Fasteners|Fasteners]]
** [[Wiring/Soldering]]
* [[Power Tools]]

=='''Arcade Art'''==
Great games became classics with a little help from their captivating branding & design. Here you'll find articles on design, printing, and techniques that will add visual interest to your cabinet.
*[[Overview & Options to Consider]]
*[[Creating Your Own Art From Scratch]]
*[[Vector tracing]]
*[[Restoring & Recreating Artwork]]
*[[Applying CPOs]]
*[[Graphics software]]
*[[Raster versus Vector artwork]]
|

=='''Arcade Control Hardware'''==
Here's the reason most people enter this hobby; to play the games you love with actual arcade hardware, just as they were intended. There's a vast array of different controls out there...
* [[Joysticks]]
* [[Pushbuttons]]
* [[Trackballs]]
* [[Spinners]]
* [[Light Guns]]
* [[Driving Controls]]

=='''Interfacing Controls With Your PC'''==
Hooking up various arcade controls to a home PC can be a daunting task. Here are some of your options...
* [[Keyboard Hacks]]
* [[Encoders|Encoders]]
** [[Keyboard Encoders|Keyboard Encoders]]
** [[Gamepad Encoders|Gamepad Encoders]]
** [[Rotary Encoders|Rotary Encoders]]
** [[Optical Encoders|Optical (Mouse) Encoders]]
* [[USB Game Pad Hack]]
** [[Dual Strike Hack]]

=='''Video'''==
* [[Video Overview]]
* [[Arcade Monitors]]
* [[PC Monitors]]
* [[MultiSync Monitors]]
* [[Televisions]]
* [[ArcadeVGA|ArcadeVGA Video Card ]]
* [[Custom display modes (Windows) - Powerstrip | Custom Windows Display Modes with PowerStrip]]
* [[uvc|UltraCade's uVC Video Converter hardware]]

=='''Software'''==
* [[Software Overview]]
** [[Arcade Emulators]]
** [[Other Emulation]]
** [[Simulators and remakes]]
** [[PC Games]]
** [[Front-Ends]]
*** [[Screens, Titles & Extras]]
** [[Jukebox Software]]
*** [[CD Ripping]]
** [[Other Software]]
*** [[Design applications]]
*** [[Other Software#Label Layout Software|Label Layout Software]]
*** [[Other Software#Utilities|Utilities]]
* [[Operating System Comparison]]
* [[Hiding Windows]]

=='''Other Systems'''==
* [[Game Consoles]]
* [[Handheld Consoles]]
* [[Home Computers]]
* [[TV Games]]

=='''Miscellaneous'''==
* [[Lighting]]
** [[LED-Wiz|LED-Wiz]]
** [[Lighting FX Buttons]]
* [[Electrical Supplies]]
* [[Coin Doors]]

Safety Equipment

2006-04-15T07:32:49Z

Grumble: /* Shop Safety Supplies */

==Eye Protection==
: Safety glasses. Going blind due to an accident will make all of your work useless, right? Put 'em on!

==Hearing Protection==
: Ear plugs or ear muffs. Many power tools produce EXTREMELY loud noise, and temporary deafness (and possibly permanent too) can and does occur. Put 'em in or on, but USE 'EM!

==Breathing Protection==
: Many of the materials produce dust. You may not even be able to see some of these dusts. MDF, in particular, produces toxic dust. Any and all things you breath in will cause short-term effects. The long-term effects are even worse. Get a face mask, and put it on. Your lungs will thank you for it.

==Shop Safety Supplies==
: It is highly recommended that you have a fire extinguisher nearby while working in the shop. Make sure that you know how to use it and that it is charged and undamaged.

: You should also have a first-aid kit and telephone nearby in case of accidents. It is always a good idea to periodically review basic first aid procedures.

Safety Equipment

2006-04-15T07:31:45Z

Grumble:

==Eye Protection==
: Safety glasses. Going blind due to an accident will make all of your work useless, right? Put 'em on!

==Hearing Protection==
: Ear plugs or ear muffs. Many power tools produce EXTREMELY loud noise, and temporary deafness (and possibly permanent too) can and does occur. Put 'em in or on, but USE 'EM!

==Breathing Protection==
: Many of the materials produce dust. You may not even be able to see some of these dusts. MDF, in particular, produces toxic dust. Any and all things you breath in will cause short-term effects. The long-term effects are even worse. Get a face mask, and put it on. Your lungs will thank you for it.

==Shop Safety Supplies==
: It is highly recommended that you have a fire extinguisher nearby while working in the shop. Make sure that you know how to use it and that it is charged and undammaged.

: You should also have a first-aid kit and telephone nearby in case of accidents. It is always a good idea to periodically review basic first aid procedures.

Safety Equipment

2006-04-15T07:28:17Z

Grumble:

Televisions

2006-04-15T07:12:06Z

Grumble: /* TV hacks */

Televisions can be used in place of an arcade monitor. While not as authentic, they offer reasonable video performance at a definite cost savings to the user. While TVs do not appear as authentic as actual arcade monitors, they may appear more authentic than the output from a computer monitor in many instances, while smaller Windows text boxes can still be read unlike the output from an arcade monitor.

=Connection types=
When using a TV, make sure to match the outputs of your video card to the inputs of your television. Several types of video are available when using a TV, each with varying strengths and weaknesses. The more common formats are:

* [[Video Output#Coaxial|Coaxial]]
* [[Video Output#Composite Video (RCA)|Composite Video (RCA)]]
* [[Video Output#S-Video|S-Video]]
* [[Video Output#Component Video (YUV)|Component Video (YUV)]]
* [[Video Output#SCART|SCART]] (Europe)

The type of connection you can use may depend on the connections your videocard can offer and the connections your television accepts.

=Things to consider when choosing a TV=
Some things to consider when choosing a TV for your cabinet:
*How big is the case? Do you want to leave the TV in its case or strip the case off to fit a bigger tube in your cabinet? Is the TV case too deep to fit while your cabinet still has its back panel on?
*Where are the video inputs? Is the video-in port/jack on the TV in an inconvenient place? If it is on the front of the case? Will there be room between the front of the TV and the bezel?
*Does the TV return to the last channel/input when power is cut? If you unplug the TV and then plug it back in (or turn off and on its power strip), does it return to the channel/input it was on last, or does it default to a different channel?
*Will you use it for other media? Will you watch TV on your cab? Will you need to use the TV's remote?
*'''The most important question... will the TV automaticallly power itself back on after a "power failure." ''' If you turn the cabinet's power off, you want the TV to turn itself back on automatically when you later power the cabinet back on.

=TV hacks=
Be sure that you know what you are doing before attempting to work on any CRT display (like a TV or Arcade monitor) as various components in them can carry lethal electrical charges even when unplugged!
*Desolder IR tab from TV board, splice length of wire from board to IR tab, move IR tab into marquee or bezel area so it can receive remote signals better
*TVs generally fit into arcade monitor brackets. Remove TV from case, and bolt into old arcade monitor brackets for a solid installation
*(When mounting a TV onto arcade monitor backets) If you don't feel like putting screws into your TV's circuit board, use a [[rotary tool]] to cut the TV's circuit board plastic mounting slots out of the TV case. You can then screw, bolt, or twist-tie the mounting slots into your cabinet and place the circuit board back into the mounting slots.
*To get better antenna reception, run a 10' wire from the antenna input on your tv, out of the back of your cabinet along the complete height of the cabinet. You can staple or glue the wire flat to the cabinet. You can the paint the antenna wire if you choose.
*Use the TVs audio out to drive your cabinet's speakers. Run audio from your computer to your TV's audio in. You can cut the TV's audio wires to the puny TV speakers and then run the wires to the cabinet's mono or stereo speakers. The quality is low, but the quality on most original arcade cabinets was pretty low as anyway.

Power Tools

2006-03-04T21:42:00Z

Grumble: /* Jigsaw */

Power tools speed up the job of cutting the materials you need to build your cabinet. Depending on skill level, some people find it almost impossible to do things correctly without them, but they certainly can be done with hand tools. The list of power tools that are commonly used can be quite long, but a cabinet can certainly be built with a few important ones.

** '''Remember, when using ANY power tool, read the instruction manual and use safety protection (safety glasses, hearing protection, face masks) before plugging in any tool.'''

==Circular Saw==

A circular saw cuts straight lines faster and easier than almost any other saw. It allows you to take the tool over to the wood, rather than maneuvering the wood around the tool.

==Jigsaw==

Also called a Saber Saw, a jigsaw is quite useful for making curved cuts. A jigsaw can be used to make straight cuts as well, but will take more time and due to the narrower base and propensity for the blades to bend, allows more chances for mistakes to creep in.

To minimize these mistakes, it is important to select a good quality blade that is appropriate to the material you are cutting. A cheap blade is much more likely to bend in a dense material like MDF than a more expensive one. Also, a cutting guide or straight-edge can make a big difference in the quality of the cut.

==Router==

** '''Because of the high speed that ANY type of router spins at, routers can be VERY dangerous. ALWAYS make sure the bit is seated properly into the unit (see the manual for your particular unit), and DO NOT try to "cheat" to get more depth out of the cut than the bit allows. Go back to the store and buy the proper length bit.'''

For our purposes, a router can be considered the jack-of-all-trades. With the proper guides and setup, a router can do straight cuts like a circular saw, can handle curved cuts like a jigsaw, and can do several other things with a high degree of competency. The router's capabilities are determined by the bit that is used. If you wish to install t-molding on your cabinet, it is practically impossible to do so without using a t-molding bit in your router. If you wish to ensure both sides of your cabinet are identical, cutting one side and using a pattern bit or flush-trim bit to trace around the first side will cut a second piece of wood to the exact same shape. Cutting plexiglass with your router is also easier with your router and tends to encounter less problems.

Smaller routers, called trim or laminate routers, can also be used, and are perfectly acceptable for our purposes. Larger-shanked bits usually cannot be used, so be sure to check that the bits you wish to use come in the smaller-shanked versions.

==Drill==
[[image:countersink_bits.jpg|right|thumb|countersink bits|65px]]

Drills, drill bits, and screwdriver bits work to speed up fastening panels together. Some materials, such as MDF, should be pre-drilled, meaning a drill bit should be used to drill a hole before a screw is placed in that spot. Failure to do so can result in splitting the material. Many other materials require this step as well. Test yours to make sure.

When done with the predrilling step, using a screwdriver bit in your drill will speed up the insertion of screws as well. If your drill comes with several speeds, the lowest setting (usually #1) is designed to be used when driving screws. Higher speeds can set your screw too deep, potentially ruining the work you just did.

One of the most helpful drill bits needed for MDF cabinet construction is a "countersink" bit. This is a special drill bit assembly that has a regular drill bit with a secondary countersink cutter attached. This bit creates a dome shaped recess at the start of the hole to allow the head of the screw to rest flush with the face of the wood. By using a countersink bit you can prevent the dreaded "hump" of displaced MDF around your screw heads and in your glued and screwed joints.

==Random-orbit Sander==

** '''Many types of wood dust are fine powders and are easily inhaled, causing short-term effects. Some, such as MDF, are TOXIC and can cause long-term health effects. Face masks to filter these dusts and irritants SHOULD ALWAYS BE WORN.'''

Hand sanding quickly becomes tedious and more often than not, will be ignored or given minimal attention because of this. A smooth paint/stain job is easier to obtain with a smooth surface, so a random-orbit sander speeds up this chore and makes it easier to complete.

Random-orbit sanders use random movements so as not to leave directional marks in what you are sanding. While this is not important in materials such as MDF where there is no direction, or "grain", materials such as plywood will show such marks, and may be difficult if not impossible to remove. If you are staining your project, this may show up through your finish, and can be an eyesore.

Another reason for a random-orbit sander is when mistakes happen. It is easier to sand off the layer of finish you just applied if something goes wrong, such as dust in the paint. A power sander will make this an easy repair.

==Blades/Bits/Etc==
* Hole-creation bits
** Hole Saw
** Spade Bit
** Forstner Bit
* Router bits
** T-molding bit
** Flush-trim Bit
** Pattern Bit
* Saw blades
** Standard blade (HSS)
** Carbide blade
** Hollow ground blade

Measuring Devices

2006-03-04T21:33:21Z

Grumble:

: This will probably be your most vital tool. The common examples in this category include the standard tape measure, a T-square, a basic ruler or yardstick, framing square, etc. The most important thing to remember when measuring is to ALWAYS repeat your measuring and marking process wherever possible.

: This means if you hook the edge of your tape measure over your material and pull the tape measure out to the desired length, do this for EVERY measurement if possible. Changing the METHOD of measurement may end up with your markings being a fraction off here or there. Murphy's law dictates that you will not find this out until your most critical piece needs to be cut and you find yourself with the odd measurement that is off by just enough to cause you problems!

: Consistency throughout your project will be rewarded with fewer problems in the end.

Fasteners

2006-03-04T21:29:42Z

Grumble: /* Screws */

==Glue==

* '''Wood glue''' - essentially the same as Elmer's white glue but with coloring and additives to make it set up faster than white glue 

* '''White glue''' - the regular stuff commonly found at your local "-mart" store. 

* '''Polyurethane glue''' - unlike yellow or white glue that requires air to cure, polyurethane glue requires moisture to cure. Polyurethane is excellent at joining dissimilar materials such as wood and plastic. When curing, it "foams", so clamps are a must with this type of glue. 

::* ''When working with MDF, remember this trick to get better results. You'll find the edges rougher and more porous than the face. Gluing as you normally would can "starve" the joint of glue. To avoid this, "double glue" the joint. Apply a coat of glue to the edges of the boards but do not assemble! Allow this first layer to soak in. Then apply a second layer of glue and assemble the panels. The first layer helps seal the surface, while the second application works to create a solid bond.'' 

==Nails==
: Self-explanatory, except to say for building a cabinet, screws are the preferred method, but nails can be used if you wish, however, plywood or solid wood panels are recommended if using nails

==Screws==
[[image:countersink_tip.jpg|right|thumb|tip for a better joint|60px]]
: Screws will require special methods when used with MDF. Screws installed into the edges of MDF can cause it to split, resulting in a weak or failed joint. You'll need to drill a pilot hole for your screws. Use a drill bit the same diameter as the shank of your screw, and drill your hole slightly deeper than the length of your screw. Secondly, use sraight-shanked screws to avoid splitting the material and also to get a better grip in the material. "Sheet Metal" screws are a decent inexpensive choice for MDF. Special screws, called Confirmat screws, are available but somewhat costly. Coarse-threaded drywall screws will also perform well with MDF.

: MDF fibers will "pull up" when driving screws into the pilot hole causing a "bump" around the shank of the screw. This can make it more difficult to get a tight joint between panels. If you countersink the pilot holes at both faces of each panel, it creates a cavity that gives the "bump" somewhere to go. This allows for a stronger, better looking joint.Here is a link with more tips on joining MDF. [http://rowecraft.com/blog/2006/01/assembling-mdf.html MDF assembly]

==Dowels==

==Biscuits==

BYOAC OLD Wiki - User contributions [en]

Wiring/Soldering

Wiring/Soldering

File:Multimeter.jpg

Wiring/Soldering

Contents

Safety Equipment

Safety Equipment

Safety Equipment

Televisions

Power Tools

Measuring Devices

Fasteners