==A Day In the Life==
;Preperation :The morning of the auction, you really do not want to have anything to worry about except for getting to the auction and having a good time. So, a little preperation can help you have a great experience. The auction day is a long and somewhat tireing experience. So, plan to be there for a while (8ish in the am to start, and can go all the way up to 6:30 pm). There is a lot to do, see, and play. If you are planning to spend the day at the auction, it is a good idea to bring a cooler of drinks and enough food for 2 meals. They may not have food there, and If you have brought no food, you'll have to leave to get something and possibly miss an item you want. If you are waiting to bid on a certain machine, it could take hours for the auctioneer to reach it. If food is sold, the quality of the food is usually not very good and quite frankly a little scary (Really... how old is the nacho cheese in that warmer).
:Think ahead, Do stuff the night before rather than the morning of. A low stress level makes for a much nicer morning. If you have a long drive to get there, get gas the night before. Get some food for in the car. Gather you [[Arcade_Auctions_Quick_List|auction gear]], and put it IN THE CAR.
:Finally, and I am not trying to make you feel like a little kid, but go to bed early. Nothing worse than being really tired around that much tension and noise.

;Wake up :You have been very excited about the auction. you have set your alarm so you can be out of bed and to the auction house before the doors open. But, in your infinite wisdom, though you set your alarm, you did not turn it on. You wake up feeling oddly rested. You glance over at the clock and think...Hmmm 7:30. It has been a long time since I have slept that late. Wonder what I will do toda...CRAP!!! THE AUCTION!!! (Adrenalin surge) You jump out of bed, step on the dog, the dog squeaks and in an attempt to not wake up the rest of the house you change your balance causing you to whack your toe on the dresser (hard). Trying really hard not to scream, you try make your way to the bathroom. You like it dark in your room when you sleep, I mean really, really dark, so you do not see the laundry basket in front of you causing you to fall. During the fall you manage to hit your chin on the same dresser that you stubbed your toe on. The day is not starting so well. The point...don't forget to turn on your alarm. Oh, not that this ever happened to me or anything...Just a warning is all. </drama>

;The Drive :You have made it out of the house. You got gas last night. You get in your car and head towards the auction. You get there a few minutes before 8 am. This is great as you get to go in soon (ahhh the anticipation). So you make small talk with the others who also didn't stub their toe that morning either. These folks, though similar in heart, are the competition. The folks that will be driving your game price up. So now is the time to schmooz and try to get a feel for what you are up against. "So what are YOU looking for?" you might ask. They tell you 'Michael Jackson Thriller, it's a jamma you know...". Relieved, you can call them friend as it is not the game that you came for. Actually all silliness aside, I have met some great people I still keep in touch with at these auctions. All I can say is it is a wonderful gathering of fellow nerds.

;The Doors finally open :(Not on time by the way). You know that music at the beginning of the Simpson's... You know, the clouds part then angelic voices (Ahhhhh)...Well that should be the sound that happens when the doors of the auction. Time to go in an see what they have. My first auction I walked in and was very much saddened to see this little row of about 15 games with a few games behind them. Sure there was a Defender sitting there (which I eventually bought). But all in all there was just so few. Then I turned my head the other direction and realized that all I had just been looking at, were the late arrivals. There were games as far as the eye could see. Now, please do not go in expecting to see pristine machines in their glory days. Most of these games are old and have seen some abuse in their day. But instead go in looking for possibilities. The BYOAC community is based on the idea: BUILD, RESTORE, PLAY. So see these cabs as the a playground of toys to fix up. Now, Time to go and play.

;Register :At some point early in the preview period you should register to bid. Some companies like Super Auctions, will now let you register online. I'll say it again, make sure you do this as early as possible. The lines can get quite long and move very slowly. They will collect your home information and payment option. While you are registering, If you are unsure, ask them about the their payment options. Checks are generally not accepted. It's either cash or credit card. You generally need to either put down a money deposit, or leave your driver's license with them. With some companies, once you have registered with them once, you do not need to leave your license at your next auction as they have you on file. DO NOT forget to collect your license at the end of the day. 

====The Preview Period====
:There is a preview period before the start of the auction during which time you can power up the games and try them out. Most previews start at 8am and end when the auction opens. Most auctions are scheduled to start at 10am, but they almost always start late. Also, games are often still brought in during the preview period, so don't be too discouraged if there are not too many games when you arrive at 8am. Bring a very long extension cord to try out the games during the preview period. The places are usually very big, and outlets are often only located on the outer walls of the building. Bring a power strip or a multi-tap so that you can plug in multiple games or share an outlet with others (there are usually only a few outlets).

:The preview period is where the fun really starts. It is a large room full of folks running around with their extension cords all looking for some little scrap of electricity to make their game turn on. You see a cluster of folks. Someone has found juice. You make your way through the huddle and find a wad of A/C splitters connected to other A/C splitters connected to power strips connected to other power strips, and all this is coming out of one outlet. You run your extension cord to your game. There is generally a 2 rows back to back, with a space of about 2 feet between the rows. so you make your way down the corridor of the butt sides of all the machines. This is a great place to get an idea of the condition of the machine. Often folks clean up the fronts but neglect the back ends. Just FYI. So, you get to your machine, you look on the floor and there is a scramble of plugs. so you sort out all the plugs and plug in the machine. You hear the screen zap to life so you know it came on. After a run around to the front side you realize you plugged in the machine next to the one you wanted. This is the way it goes. Finally you get your game to work. You get to play the game. Ghaw what fun. Playing the real thing, not some flash simulated web browser knock up, but the real thing. You mark down the lot number of the game and mark that it plays well. Then off to another game. Back to the plug dungeon. You plug in your next game. you coin it up and are just about to play when all the sudden all the power to about 60 games just stops. The room goes suddenly quiet. well for a second that is because the silence is usually followed by a universal...Hey man what the f...Heck happened. I find this funny. Watching people get upset when it is NEVER a good idea to plug that many things into 1 outlet. But the anger dissipates as soon as someone finds the breaker. It is a cycle that happens often throughout the morning.

:Bring pen and paper to jot notes. There may be a number of a particular game and you want to know which worked and which didn't. All items being auctioned are numbered, which helps in tracking the items. the numbered item(s) are called "Lots". Sometimes the auctioneer will print a list of all items, so find out if one's available and get a copy. This is also useful for tracking selling prices. Just be aware that because pieces are still being brought in that morning, the list may not be complete. The numbers do not indicate the order by which things are auctioned.

:When the preview period ends, sometimes you are asked not to power up or open anything (But if not...GAME ON!!!)

:BTW, A game is considered working "all the way" if it powers up, and video games show a picture (even a horrible picture, as most bad pictures can be corrected with monitor adjustments or cheap fixes).

[[Auction_Preview_Period |Things to Consider ]] - Check out this list of things to consider when previewing games during the auction. You don't want to go home with a dud.

====The Auction Begins====
:Usually they will make a few announcements that the auction is about to begin. If you have not registered, DO IT NOW. You do not want to be standing in line and watch all those games slip away.

:The bidding usually goes like this: The auctioneer will offer a starting price or an "opening bid". If nobody accepts this bid, he will lower the opening bid until someone accepts his offer. Once the offer is accepted, the auctioneer will ask for the next incremental bid. The bid increments vary depending on the average cost of the items. For most games, the increments are usually $25, and may be $12.50 when things get heated. Listen to the auctioneer at the start of the auction. You'll look like a fool if you bid $301 when the price is currently $300. The price will go up and up if people keep bidding. Once the bidding has plateaued and one person has accepted a bid that no one else will challenge, the auctioneer will close out the battle by saying "going once... going twice.... SOLD", (or "Gone"). At this point no more bids will be taken (no mater how much you beg). The last person to make a bid (i.e. the one willing to pay the most for the item in question) "wins" the bid and gets the item. They will ask you for your buyer number. They record your number and give it to the cashier. There is no backing out at this point. If you do try to back out, they will make an announcement, everyone will look at you and groan, and depending on the reason for the back out, the may take your number. Bidding then proceeds to the next item and the cycle repeats.

:If you realize that you were bidding on the wrong game (it happens) tell the auctioneer immediately. You do not want to get stuck with the cruddy conversion of solitaire, when you thought you were bidding on the mint Tron right next to it.

:Someone often works ahead of the auctioneer to power up the games, and they sometimes get non-working games running again. If a game does not power up, the auction company may get it working during the auction. This could be a good thing (if you wanted a working game), or a bad thing (if you were hoping to get the game cheap).

LISTEN CAREFULLY TO THE AUCTIONEER DURING THE COURSE OF THE AUCTION

*Listen for the condition of the game as described by the auctioneer. This is especially useful if you missed it during the preview period, or missed the preview period entirely. I've seen a lady bid high for a Ms. Pac-Man, but she never heard the auctioneer say that it has no monitor or game board, and she couldn't see it due to the crowd of people. (Also another good reason to show up early to look at the games before the auction starts)

*The auctioneer may set up some bidding rules on particular items. Observe the auction numbers on items. If there is a single number for a group of items, they will most likely be auctioned for one bid. Often when there are more than one of a particular item in similar condition, the auctioneer will have people bid on the items, but give the winning bidder a CHOICE of the one or more of the items, EACH at the cost of the winning bid. Be careful. I've seen people think they are getting all of the items for the winning price, and they bid too high.

*One thing to accept with a grain of salt (i.e. don't believe), is when an auctioneer says that a game is rare. The word "rare" is so often misused, it's become meaningless. Yes, some items they say are rare are truly rare, but most often not. Sometimes "rare" means Crap, how am I gonna sell this thing? Just use your own judgment and guidelines.

*If you stop bidding because the bid price gets too high for you, hoping to get the next one at a lower cost, you may lose any chance of getting any of the items because the auctioneer may offer all the like pieces. I've seen operators win a bid, and then take every one of the items. If you really want one of the items, you may have to be the high bidder the first time; and if you don't take them all, the next bidder may get the items for a lot less. It's a gamble.

:Example: if there are 4 boxes of CDs, and the winning bid is $50, the winner may pick one of the boxes for the $50, or choose any 2 for a total of $100, or all for $200. After the winner gets finished the looting, the left overs are auctioned off. They may go for more than the $50 or they could go for $2.00. (The winner got the box with the BeeGee's greatest hits).

*NOTE: Many times the owner of an item will bid on his/her own item in an attempt to reach a higher price. Sometimes the owner will buy back their own items. This is cleverly named, a "buyback". After a while you can learn to spot these people, and if you notice that they are the only ones bidding against you, don't get caught up in "auction fever" and end up spending more than you really wanted to. Buyer beware.

During the auction, the auctioneer and the mass of people will move from game to game. With a huge crowd, this gets uncomfortable and tiring. If you are interested in a particular game, you may want to move ahead of the crowd and stand near the game so you're
close up when it's auctioned and you can hear what the auctioneer is saying. The quality of their PA systems is often poor, and the
large rooms have a lot of echo. Bottom line, it is hard to hear a lot of the time.

Whatever isn't chosen is auctioned again.
Games are sold "as is". Period!

Please be courteous to winning bidders. Nothing makes the moment more awkward than a sore looser making his unhappiness known. Auctions are meant to be fun, not confrontational. Also...Do not play with the games that already have been won. (Unless you won it).

====After the Auction====
:The auction is now over. It is time to pay and get your games home. It is a weird feeling because it has been a long day, but it went fast. I usually find that I get everything done then go and sit in my car to go home and suddenly realize... Holy cow, I am tired. It is a wonderful thing to be able to open a cooler and pull out an ice cold drink just about now. Now... where did I put the keys? 

; How do I pay? :It's cheaper to pay cash. Again, there is sometimes a fee for paying with credit card. Usually it is about 5%. As with the auctioneer's take, this is NOT included in the "sold" price. Cash is best, so bring lots of it!

;There is a sign that says that I can get the keys from the manager. What keys?
:Some folks that bring their games in are nice enough not to strip out the coin mechs and coin door keys. This is a great thing as now you do not have to go and purchase them your self. Usually there is a front table. The manager has a large selection of keys. They keys will be numbered according to lots just like your game. When you have your recipt, visit the table and collect your keys.

;I won and wanna go home. :After winning an item, you can pay for it and haul it away at any time during the auction. The most you will have to wait is for the auctioneers to get the selling information input into their computer systems. So, give them at least a half-hour before you wait in line to pay.

;How long do I have to get my stuff out of there?
:Purchased items have to be out of the building by a certain time. Make sure you ask for this time. When bidding, be sure to keep this in mind so that you give yourself enough time to get your items out. There may be only one large exit, and other people's vehicles may be pulled up to it, meaning that you have to wait your turn to get out. Don't be caught short on time. 
==Actual Auction Prices==
It is sometimes nice to see ahead of time, how much to expect to pay for their favorite game. Below are from auctions that the BYOAC community have been to and have recorded the prices.
* [[Atlanta 02-25-06 | Atlanta 02-25-06]]

For your benefit and the benefit of other collectors out there, it's very helpful to take pictures and keep track of prices and then post this information on the here. Digital cameras and cell phone cameras are especially useful for this. If you meet other collectors at the auction, divide up the task of writing down the prices as it can be quite taxing to do this the whole day. Note: some companies do not allow you to take pictures. Apparently there was some trouble some time back with one attender taking pictures of another attenders daughter. 

----

Most arcade auctions are run by US Amusements or Super Auctions. Their web sites are: 
* http://www.usamusements.com 
* http://www.superauctions.com 

==See Also==
* [[Getting_Games_Home | Getting Your Games Home]] - Several suggestions on how to get your new games home.
* [[Arcade_Auctions_Quick_List | Quick List]] - A helpful list of things you may need when attending an auction. 
* [[Vendors | Vendors]]
* [[Game_Room |Back to Game Room]]
 

*[[Arcade_Auctions_1#Arcade Auctions: Useful Information | Back to the Top]]

[[Category:Vendors]]
[[Category:Index]]

Arcade Auctions 1

2006-12-31T04:12:32Z

MYX: Additions and spelling corrections

Bondo

2006-12-31T03:54:10Z

MYX: Added content and made more spelling corrections. Ghaw, I musta been sleeping when I wrote this thing.

From Wikipedia...

Bondo is a 2 part putty used to fix dents in cars, created by Bondo Corporation. While the term "Bondo" is a brand name for this company's product, it is commonly used as a genericized trademark to refer to all auto-repair putties or so-called plastic body fillers. Bondo is a two-part epoxy that when mixed turns into a putty which then sets and becomes rock-hard. The user can apply the mixed Bondo to the dented panel, sand it to the proper shape, and prime and paint it like the metal around it. It may also be used to Modify the look of PC cases, as some people do to make it look cool, using the bondo as a sort of clay to make items to paste on the case.

When building a home arcade cabinet, Bondo is commonly used to repair errant saw or router cuts, holes left when countersinking screws, and other applications. Wood filler or putty can be used as well, but sometimes wood filler expands over time, leaving a visible mark.

==How to Use Bondo==
Bondo is great stuff. It is easy to work with while it is soft, and can be sanded very smooth once it is hard. Unlike wood filler, Bondo will not shrink or expand which is nice as you know what you are going to get when you apply it. It will come either come in a pint or gallon sized can. Usually there is a rather large cap on top. Inside the cap are 2 things. A scoop and a tube of toothpaste looking stuff. Do NOT use it as toothpaste. Duh! 
The cap is said to be where your supposed to mix it. The problem is that once it is mixed and becomes hard, you have to break it out in order to use the cap again. I find that the best thing to mix bondo on is a slick flat surface, like a coffee can lid or a piece of hard board. The scoop, I usually toss because who wants to clean a bondo scoop every time you need bondo. I usually use a paint stir stick to scoop the bondo out of the can. You can then toss it as the stick was free. 

To mix the the 2 elements together I use a credit card. (This is a great use for all the "free" cards everyone sends you). With a credit card you can smear the smear and mix together, and you can also use it to scrape your surface to get all the bondo together into a pile again. A credit card is also thin enough to be flexible but strong enough to push the bondo around without breaking. 

Another great tool to mix and apply bondo is a metal putty knife (The type used for drywall paste). But make sure that you get a flexible one not a stiffy.

The Bondo instructions say to use a golf ball sized scoop to about 1 inch of the paste. I do not know about you, but I have never seen bondo come out of the can in a way that even closely resembles a golf ball. So use your eye. I usually will scoop about 2. in square blob that is about 1/2 in. thick.

Ok here is the run down...
*You have used your router in a way that has ruined your flawless cabinet. (oh my)
*Clean off the area thoroughly. Get all the saw dust and what ever else away from the area.
*Get your coffee can lid, bondo, and toothpaste ready FIRST. (you do not want to be fumbling around trying to get organized)
*Get your blob of bondo (see size above)
*Put a 1 inch line of the hardener resin on top of the bondo
*Mix VERY well. This is important to the hardness.

Time is now ticking! With bondo, time is NOT your friend. It does not dry like glue, or wood putty. It is changing states through a chemical reaction.

*Using your credit card, grab a small portion of the bondo and squish it into the gaping wound in the side of your once beautiful cabinet.
*Keep filling in the area until it is full. The bondo may start to move as a whole. try to keep it put as you spread it.
*Once the gap is filled also lightly swipe some around the edges of the gap onto the surrounding wood. Make this as thin as you can while making a constant surface.
*It may be necessary to build up the damaged area instead of trying to fill the whole thing in one shot. If it is too deep you may have to fill in a little bit, let it harden, then mix up some more and top the original area. The cool thing is that you will not have to wait too long for the second application as the surface of the first should get just hard enough to re coat within about 7 or 8 minutes.
*If the Bondo starts to get hard it will become difficult to work with. There is a point at which you have to stop applying it as you will make a mess trying to make work for you. It is better just to mix up more once this batch becomes a little harder.
*As it becomes semi hard, this is a good time to clean up any stray Bondo drips. Again, use your credit card to scrape off the little bondo drops. If the bondo is hard enough, these should pop right off.
*Once you are happy with the Bondo application, you need to wait for about a 1/2 hour. (Assuming you are of legal age) Margaritas are a nice time filler, but then again, this is probably how you got yourself into this mess to start out with. Isn't it? Myup.
*When time is getting near, lightly do a finger test to check the consistency. If it feels hard and warm or is tacky to the touch, it is still probably curing deeper within the bondo. Wait a little longer. If you have waited more than 45 minutes and it is still sticky, you probably did not add enough hardener, or you did not mix it thoroughly enough.
*If it seems cooler and totally hard, then it is time to sand.

Sanding Bondo is easy but messy. Wear a face mask as you DO NOT want to breath in Bondo dust. I use an electric sander with 60 - 100 grit to get started. This will take the bondo down pretty quick. When you see that you are getting close to your surface switch to like a 220 grit. This will take a little longer, but, the result will be a perfectly smooth surface to your original surface. Keep feeling around the edges. You do not want to feel any raised or sunken areas. Once smooth, clean up the bondo dust and call it done. 

Another suggestion (related to bondo dust) is clamp a vacuum hose near where you are sanding. Most modern vacumes are strong enough to pull the dust from several inches. 
Hey...do what works, right?!? 
Update... Recently I have started removing the little dust catcher bag off the back side of my sander. I then put the hose of my vacuum right on the output of the sander. This does a good job of sucking all the stuff that would normally get caught in the sander bag, plus a lot of stuff that would normally get sent into the air otherwise. I still like to wear the face mask because it makes me look like a doctor, oh, and it keeps the dust out of my lungs.

==See Also==
* [[Building]]

[[Category:Building]]

Bondo

2006-12-31T03:40:57Z

MYX: corrected many spellin' mistakes and added the end bit about suction.

From Wikipedia...

Bondo is a 2 part putty used to fix dents in cars, created by Bondo Corporation. While the term "Bondo" is a brand name for this company's product, it is commonly used as a genericized trademark to refer to all auto-repair putties or so-called plastic body fillers. Bondo is a two-part epoxy that when mixed turns into a putty which then sets and becomes rock-hard. The user can apply the mixed Bondo to the dented panel, sand it to the proper shape, and prime and paint it like the metal around it. It may also be used to Modify the look of PC cases, as some people do to make it look cool, using the bondo as a sort of clay to make items to paste on the case.

When building a home arcade cabinet, Bondo is commonly used to repair errant saw or router cuts, holes left when countersinking screws, and other applications. Wood filler or putty can be used as well, but sometimes wood filler expands over time, leaving a visible mark.

==How to Use Bondo==
Bondo is great stuff. It is easy to work with while it is soft and can be sanded very smooth. It will come either come in a pint or gallon sized can. Usually there is a rather large cap on top. Inside the cap are 2 things. A scoop and a tube of toothpast looking stuff. Do NOT use it as toothpaste. Duh! 
The cap is said to be where your supposed to mix it. The problem is that once it is mixed and becomes hard, you have to break it out in order to use the cap again. I find that the best thing to mix bondo on is a slick flat surface, like a coffie can lid or a piece of hard board. The scoop, I usually toss because who wants to clean a bondo scoop every time you need bondo. I usually use a paint stir stick to scoop the bondo out of the can. You can then toss it as the stick was free. 

To mix the the 2 elements together I use a credit card. (This is a great use for all the "free" cards everyone sends you). With a credit card you can smear the smear and mix together, and you can also use it to scrape your surface to get all the bondo together into a pile again. A credit card is also thin enough to be flexible but strong enough to push the bondo around without breaking. 

Another great tool to mix and apply bondo is a metal putty knife (The type used for drywall paste). But make sure that you get a flexible one not a stiffy.

The Bondo instructions say to use a golf ball sized scoop to about 1 inch of the paste. I do not know about you, but I have never seen bondo come out of the can in a way that even closley resembles a golfball. So use your eye. I usually will scoop about 2. in square blob that is about 1/2 in. thick.

Ok here is the run down...
*You have used your router in a way that has ruined your flawless cabinet. (oh my)
*Clean off the area thoroughly. Get all the saw dust and what ever else away from the area.
*Get your coffee can lid, bondo, and toothpaste ready FIRST. (you do not want to be fumbling around trying to get organized)
*Get your blob of bondo (see size above)
*Put a 1 inch line of the hardener resin on top of the bondo
*Mix VERY well. This is important to the hardness.

Time is now ticking! With bondo time is not your friend. It does not dry like glue, or wood putty. It is changing states through a chemical reaction.

*Using your credit card, grab a small portion of the bondo and squish it into the gaping wound in the side of your once beautiful cabinet.
*Keep filling in the area until it is full. The bondo may start to move as a whole. try to keep it put as you spread it.
*Once the gap is filled also lightly swipe some around the edges of the gap onto the surrounding wood. Make this as thin as you can while making a constant surface.
*If the Bondo starts to get hard it will become difficult to work with. There is a point at which you have to stop applying it as you will make a mess trying to make work for you. It is better just to mix up some more.
*As it is semi hard, this is a good time to clean up any stray drops. Again, use your credit card to scrape off the little bondo drops. If the bondo is hard enough, these should pop right off.
*Wait for about a 1/2 hour. Margaritas are a nice time filler, but then again that is probably how you got yourself into this mess to start out with. Isn't it?
*When time is getting near, lightly do a finger test to check the consistency. If it feels hard and warm, it is still probably curing deeper within the bondo.
*If it seems cooler and totally hard, then it is time to sand.

Sanding Bondo is easy but messy. Wear a face mask as you DO NOT want to breath in Bondo dust. I use an electric sander with 60 - 100 grit to get started. This will take the bondo down pretty quick. When you see that you are getting close to your surface switch to like a 220 grit. This will take a little longer, but, the result will be a perfectly smooth surface to your original surface. Keep feeling around the edges. You do not want to feel any raised or sunken areas. Once smooth, clean up the bondo dust and call it done. 

It may be necessary to build up the damaged area instead of trying to fill the whole thing in one shot. If it is too deep you may have to fill in a little bit, let it harden, then mix up some more and top the original area. The cool thing is that you will not have to wait too long for the second application as the surface of the first should get just hard enough to re coat within about 7 or 8 minutes.

Another suggestion (related to bondo dust) is clamp a vacuum hose near where you are sanding. Most modern vacumes are strong enough to pull the dust from several inches. 
Hey...do what works, right?!? 
Update... Recently I have started removing the little dust catcher bag off the back side of my sander. I then put the hose of my vacuum right on the output of the sander. This does a good job of sucking all the stuff that would normally get caught in the sander bag, plus a lot of stuff that would normally get sent into the air otherwise. I still like to wear the face mask because it makes me look like a doctor, oh, and it keeps the dust out of my lungs.

==See Also==
* [[Building]]

[[Category:Building]]

AtomicFE

2006-12-17T12:02:35Z

MYX:

[[Image:Atomicfe.gif|thumb|Atomic FE Screenshot|320px|right]]

Atomic FE is a Front-End for Multi-emulators.

It’s been made mainly to be used with MAME arcade games. Furthermore, it would be possible to utilize Atomic FE with any other emulator as a result of small configuration efforts. Eventually, Atomic FE can be used to launch any application, as well as simply as a menu control!
 

This front end is optimized for MAME and its derivatives (ADVMAME, FASTMAME, etc...).
 

The main objective of Atomic FE is to function within a real arcade cabinet, and to be driven using joysticks as well as the buttons. In other words, it can work perfectly well with a keyboard or arcade controls.
 

AFE makes set up much easier due to it's use of plug and play modules. Once AFE is installed, you can install a module for MAME, or Lasers, or a whole range of other emu modules. For basic usability, you can just click the installer and it puts the emulator where it needs to be. All you need to do is add legaly obtained ROMs and play.

 If you wish to go beyound the basics (which most of us do) this front end is completely configurable: it supports all resolutions, all graphic cards (including ArcadeVGA), and is capable of functioning with the majority of emulators that accept command lines. It has a very powerful layout editor that supports alpha blending, , custom auto transparency through RGB value, video backgrounds, video snapshots,auto animation of objects through scrolling (In any direction) and trajectory mapping.
 

AFE now has support for Groovy Game Gear's LEDWiz and GPWiz products. This means that there is now a good solution for users of both 49way joys as well as LEDWiz. Even at it's infancy the LED controls are rich in ability.
 

* [http://www.atomicfe.com/EN2/download.php Download Atomic FE - English version]
* [http://www.atomicfe.com/FR2/download.php Download Atomic FE - Frensh version]
* [http://www.atomicfe.com/ Visit the AtomicFE Website]
* [http://spaceinvaders.7.forumer.com/ AtomicFE Support Site]

{{FrontEnd}}
[[Category:Software]]

AtomicFE

2006-12-17T12:01:25Z

MYX:

[[Image:Atomicfe.gif|thumb|Atomic FE Screenshot|320px|right]]

Atomic FE is a Front-End for Multi-emulators.

It’s been made mainly to be used with MAME arcade games. Furthermore, it would be possible to utilize Atomic FE with any other emulator as a result of small configuration efforts. Eventually, Atomic FE can be used to launch any application, as well as simply as a menu control!
 

This front end is optimized for MAME and its derivatives (ADVMAME, FASTMAME, etc...).
 

The main objective of Atomic FE is to function within a real arcade cabinet, and to be driven using joysticks as well as the buttons. In other words, it can work perfectly well with a keyboard or arcade controls.
 

AFE makes set up much easier due to it's use of plug and play modules. Once AFE is installed, you can install a module for MAME, or Lasers, or a whole range of other emu modules. For basic usability, you can just click the installer and it puts the emulator where it needs to be. All you need to do is add legaly obtained ROMs and play.

 If you wish to go beyound the basics (which most of us do) this front end is completely configurable: it supports all resolutions, all graphic cards (including ArcadeVGA), and is capable of functioning with the majority of emulators that accept command lines. It has a very powerful layout editor that supports alpha blending, video backgrounds, video snapshots,auto animation of objects through scrolling (In any direction) and trajectory mapping.
 

AFE now has support for Groovy Game Gear's LEDWiz and GPWiz products. This means that there is now a good solution for users of both 49way joys as well as LEDWiz. Even at it's infancy the LED controls are rich in ability.
 

* [http://www.atomicfe.com/EN2/download.php Download Atomic FE - English version]
* [http://www.atomicfe.com/FR2/download.php Download Atomic FE - Frensh version]
* [http://www.atomicfe.com/ Visit the AtomicFE Website]
* [http://spaceinvaders.7.forumer.com/ AtomicFE Support Site]

{{FrontEnd}}
[[Category:Software]]

2006-07-18T01:06:11Z

MYX:

2006-07-17T23:53:45Z

MYX:

Arcade Auctions 1

2006-07-17T23:10:57Z

MYX: /* A Day In the Life */

==Arcade Auctions: Useful Information==
-----------------------------------
Original text by: Mario D'Alessio (Written - April 27, 2001) 
Reformatted, updated, and overly dramatized with permission by: MYX July 2006 

NOTE: The information presented here was gathered from attending
arcade auctions in the Chicago, Indianapolis, and Atlanta areas. These
auctions were run by US Amusements and Super Auctions. This info
may not apply to auctions at other locations or those run by other
auction companies.

;What is at an Arcade Auction?
:At most arcade auctions, you'll find more than just video games and pinball machines. You can find all kinds of redemption equipment, money-making items such as kiddie rides, claw machines, etc., coin-operated pool tables, dart machines, air hockey games, jukebox machines, slot machines (see below) popcorn makers, soda machines, parts (locks, marquees, circuit boards, controllers, buttons, etc.), and anything else sellers want to sell. Items I have seen auctioned include slot racers and 12' racing tracks, condom machines, boom boxes, golf clubs, and pay telephones. The items you'll see the most of are video games, pinball machines, and jukeboxes. 

:In some states, slot machines can be auctioned. You will need to check your state's laws to find out if they can be purchased. In Illinois, slot machines have been auctioned, but these were japanese machines in which the player must hit a button for each slot wheel to stop them. As such, the machines are a game of skill rather than chance and are therefore not illegal. However, in many states it is illegal to transport ANY type of slot machine. Do your homework or buy at your own risk.

;What do the games cost?
:You will usually find a mix of older games and newer games. Prices vary greatly. If you want to get a general idea of prices, see the links listed at the botom of this page for lists of recient auctions and prices. However, the chances that they will be the same at the next auction are minimal. I've seen two machines (same game, similar condition) differ by over $100 at the same auction. Anything goes. In general, older games cost less except for the classics which are highly desirable. Videogames with 25" monitors usually tend to be higher priced. Large sit-down games such as racing games tend to be very high priced (relative to other items), but may still be a bargain. Also, as the auction progresses, the crowd thins out and the auctioneer gets tired, resulting is shorter bid cycles and lower prices. But again, anything goes. At the bottom of this page there are [[Arcade_Auctions_1#Actual Auction Prices |listings of previous]] auctions and the prices the games went for.

:The auction company gets a percentage of the selling price, and this is not included in the "sold" price. So, if the auctioneer gets 13% (the usuall), and you win the bid at $100, you'll really have to pay $113 for the item. This is known as "Buyers Premium". Though kind of a drag, the auction company does need to eat.

:Additionally, Uncle Sam gets his cut too. Know your State or local sales tax rates. If you are going out of town or state ,check up on what their rates are.

:It is very important to remember these additional charges when you are bidding. It would be very sad if you won a game but could not pay for it because you did not figure in the BP and tax. Then the Auctioneer makes an announcement and the game is sold again. So sad. I use the tip calculator on my cell phone to figure out what the current cost actually is. I put 21% as the tip ammount (13%BP and 7 % tax). Then I just punch in the numbers and do not have to wonder in the heat of battle if my math is right.
:Note: They may charge you a small percentage for using a credit card. It adds up quick.

;Can I sell stuff?
:Anyone can bring items to the auction to sell. If you have items you wish to auction, contact the auction company for details. Again there is a 13% fee for selling your game. So, if the item sells for $100, you get to take home $87. Sometimes there is a fee break if you bring several items. Check with the auction company for more details about selling.

==A Day In the Life==
;Preperation :The morning of the auction, you really do not want to have anything to worry about except for getting to the auction and having a good time. So, a little preperation can help you have a great experience. The auction day is a long and somewhat tireing experience. So, plan to be there for a while (8ish in the am to start, and can go all the way up to 6:30 pm). There is a lot to do, see, and play. If you are planning to spend the day at the auction, it is a good idea to bring a cooler of drinks and enough food for 2 meals. They may not have food there, and If you have brought no food, you'll have to leave to get something and possibly miss an item you want. If you are waiting to bid on a certain machine, it could take hours for the auctioneer to reach it. If food is sold, the quality of the food is usually not very good and quite frankly a little scary (Really... how old is the nacho cheese in that warmer).
:Think ahead, Do stuff the night before rather than the morning of. A low stress level makes for a much nicer morning. If you have a long drive to get there, get gas the night before. Get some food for in the car. Gather you [[Arcade_Auctions_1#Quick List for the Auction |auction gear]], and put it IN THE CAR.
:Finally, and I am not trying to make you feel like a little kid, but go to bed early. Nothing worse than being really tired around that much tension and noise.

;Wake up :You have been very excited about the auction. you have set your alarm so you can be out of bed and to the auction house before the doors open. But, in your infinite wisdom, thought you set your alarm, you did not turn it on. You wake up feeling oddly rested. You glance over at the clock and think...Hmmm 7:30. It has been a long time since I have slept that late. Wonder what I will do toda...CRAP!!! THE AUCTION!!! (Adrenalin surge) You jump out of bed, step on the dog, the dog squeeks and in an attempt to not wake up the rest of the house you change your balance causing you to whack your toe on the dresser (hard). Trying really hard not to scream, you try make your way to the bathroom. You like it dark in your room when you sleep, I mean reall, really dark, so you do not see the laundry basket in front of you causing you to fall. Durring the fall you manage to hit your chin on the same dresser that you stubbed your toe on. The day is not starting so well. The point...don't forget to turn on your alarm. Oh, not that this ever happened to me or anything...Just a warning is all. </dramma>

;The Drive :You have made it out of the house. You got gas last night. You get in your car and head towards the auction. You get there a few minutes before 8 am. This is great as you get to go in soon (ahhh the anticipation). So you make small talk with the others who also didn't stub their toe that morning either. These folks, though similar in heart, are the competition. The folks that will be driving your game price up. So now is the time to schmooz and try to get a feel for what you are up against. "So what are YOU looking for?" you might ask. They tell you 'Michael Jackson Thriller, it's a jamma you know...". Relieved, you can call them friend as it is not the game that you came for. Actually all sillyness asside, I have met some great people I still keep in touch with at these auctions. All I can say is it is a wonderful gathering of fellow nerds.

;The Doors finally open :(Not on time by the way). You know that music at the begining of the Simpsons... You know, the clouds part then angelic voices (Ahhhhh)...Well that should be the sound that happens when the doors of the auction. Time to go in an see what they have. My first auction I walked in and was very much saddened to see this little row of about 15 games with a few games behind them. Sure there was a Defender sitting there (which I eventually bought). But all in all there was just so few. Then I turned my head the other direction and realized that all I had just been looking at, were the late arrivals. There were games as far as the eye could see. Now, please do not go in expecting to see pristine machines in their glory days. Most of these games are old and have seen some abuse in their day. But instead go in looking for possibilities. The BYOAC comunity is based on the idea: BUILD, RESTORE, PLAY. So see these cabs as the a playground of toys to fix up. Now, Time to go and play.

;Register :At some point early in the prewiew period you should register to bid. Some companies like Super Auctions, will now let you register online. I'll say it again, make sure you do this as early as possible. The lines can get quite long and move very slowly. They will collect your home information and payment option. While you are registering, If you are unsure, ask them about the their payment options. Checks are genreally not accepted. It's either cash or credit card. You generally need to either put down a money deposit, or leave your driver's license with them. With some companies, once you have registered with them once, you do not need to leave your licence at your next auction as they have you on file. DO NOT forget to collect your licence at the end of the day. 

====The Preview Period====
There is a preview period before the start of the auction during which time you can power up the games and try them out. Most previews start at 8am and end when the auction opens. Most auctions are scheduled to start at 10am, but they almost always start late. Also, games are often still brought in during the preview period, so don't be too discouraged if there are not too many games when you arrive at 8am. Bring a very long extension cord to try out the games during the preview period. The places are usually very big, and outlets are often only located on the outer walls of the building. Bring a powerstrip or a multi-tap so that you can plug in multiple games or share an outlet with others (there are usually only a few outlets).

The preview period is where the fun really starts. It is a large room full of folks running around with their extension cords all looking for some little scrap of electricity to make their game turn on. You see a cluster of folks. Someone has found juice. You make your way through the huddle and find a wad of A/C splitters connected to other A/C splitters connected to powerstrips connected to other power strips, and all this is comming out of one outlet. You run your extension cord to your game. There is generally a 2 rows back to back, with a space of about 2 feet between the rows. so you make your way down the corridor of the butt sides of all the machines. This is a great place to get an idea of the condition of the machine. Often folks clean up the fronts but neglect the back ends. Just FYI. So, you get to your machine, you look on the floor and there is a scramble of plugs. so you sort out all the plugs and plug in the machine. You hear the screen zap to life so you know it came on. After a run around to the front side you realize you plugged in the machine next to the one you wanted. This is the way it goes. Finally you get your game to work. You get to play the game. Ghaw what fun. Playing the real thing, not some flash simulated web browser knock up, but the real thing. You mark down the lot number of the game and mark that it plays well. Then off to another game. Back to the plug dungeon. You plug in your next game. you coin it up and are just about to play when all the sudden all the power to about 60 games just stops. The room goes suddenly quiet. well for a second that is because the silence is usually followed by a universal...Hey man what the f...Heck happend. I find this funny. Watching people get upset when it is NEVER a good idea to plug that many things into 1 outlet. But the anger dissapates as soon as someone finds the breaker. It is a cycle that happens often throughout the morning.

Bring pen and paper to jot notes. There may be a number of a particular game and you want to know which worked and which didn't. All items being auctioned are numbered, which helps in tracking the items. the numbered item(s) are called "Lots". Sometimes the auctioneer will print a list of all items, so find out if one's available and get a copy. This is also useful for tracking selling prices. Just be aware that because pieces are still being brought in that morning, the list may not be complete. The numbers do not indicate the order by which things are auctioned.

When the preview period ends, sometimes you are asked not to power up or open anything (But if not...GAME ON!!!)

BTW, A game is considered working "all the way" if it powers up, and video games show a picture (even a horrible picture, as most bad
pictures can be corrected with monitor adjustments or cheap fixes).

====Things to look for when you preview a game====
*Check out the cosmetic condition of the item.
*Check the operational condition: buttons and controls work, monitor and picture quality, LED lights on pinball scores, etc.
*Open the coin doors (if not locked) and take a good look inside. A flashlight is useful for looking around. Check for existance of all necessary parts, manuals, coins, dead mice, water damage, etc.
*Power up the machine. For video games, look for toggle switches on top, in back, or on the lower sides of the machines. For pinball games, look underneath or on top of the back portion of the game, or on the lower right side for some older machines. Rarely are power switches inside the coin doors.
*If a game powers up, play the game. To do this, you'll have to coin up (credit) the machine. If the coin doors are not locked,look inside for a credit switch. Otherwise, you can trigger a credit by triggering the coin detecting mechanism. It's difficult to explain here in text, so if you don't know how to do this, ask around. Someone should be able to help. You'll also find out if the coin mechanisms work at all. If you care about the coin mechs, try triggering them by inserting a quarter (which you'll be able to take back if the coin doors are open).
*You are usually asked not to open the backs of video games. Even if you are not asked, it's best to avoid doing this! It's too easy for the back panel to fall and break the neck of the monitor. With many people moving around the games, mistakes will happen. Also, you may be mistaken for sabotaging the machine and be kicked out of the auction (it's happened). Once you purchase a game, then you can do whatever you want with it.
*Many 3+ player videogames have oversized control panels which are wider than the body of the game. These can usually be removed for easier transport, and for fitting the game through your door. Make sure you check for this unless you have plenty of room in your vehicle, and the game's destination has a large enough entranceway. If you disconnect the panel, be sure to mark the connectors for easy reassembly.
*Many games are conversions. A conversion came from the factory as one game, and was later converted into another game by an operator. If you are interested in originals only, make sure you check if the game is a conversion. For example, a Mortal Kombat may have been created from a Centipede cabinet (oh, the pain!). Some games look like nothing more than a combination of spare parts. Go to the KLOV site (see below) for info on video games and pics of originals. Also be aware that if a game is a conversion, it may be a different size than you first thought. So don't forget to measure it.
*For pinball machines, make sure you check if the back of the machine folds down or disconnects (not all do, or are troublesome to disconnect). Otherwise, you may have a tough time fitting the machine in your vehicle (if the back doesn't come down, it may not even fit into a full-sized van). On most pinballs, the legs can be removed for easier transport. Bring tools to undo any bolts (wrench, screwdrivers, etc.)
*Check the condition of the plastics on pinball machine playfields, especially the ramps. Broken parts can be very expensive to replace. If the game has an LED dot matrix display, be sure to check this as these are very expensive as well.
*For dart machines, power up the machine and start a game. Hit dartboard segments to see if they register. Some may be dead, or the whole dartboard may be dead. Some don't play cricket (a very popular dart game), so check this if you want it.
*For jukeboxes, check if it plays records (45s) or CDs. Check if the 45s or CDs are included. Often, boxes of records or CDs are auctioned separately. Since 45s are no longer made, the jukeboxes that play them tend to be cheaper, but the 45s themselves tend to be more expensive and tougher to find.

====The Auction Begins====
Usually they will make a few announcements that the auction is about to begin. If you have not registered, DO IT NOW. You do not want to be standing in line and watch all those games slip away.

The bidding usually goes like this: The auctioneer will offer a starting price or an "opening bid". If nobody accepts this bid, he
will lower the opening bid until someone accepts his offer. Once the offer is accepted, the auctioneer will ask for the next incremental bid. The bid increments vary depending on the average cost of the items. For most games, the increments are usually $25, and may be $12.50 when things get heated. Listen to the auctioneer at the start of the auction. You'll look like a fool if you bid $301 when the price is currently $300. The price will go up and up if people keep bidding. Once the bidding has plateued and one person has accepted a bid that no one else will chalenge, the auctioneer will close out the battle by saying "going... going.... SOLD", (or "Gone"). At this point no more bids will be taken (no mater how much you beg). The last person to make a bid (i.e. the one willing to pay the most for the item in question) "wins" the bid and gets the item. They will ask you for your buyer number. They record your number and give it to the cashier. There is no backing out at this point. If you do try to back out, they will make an announcement, everyone will look at you and groan, and depending on the reason for the backout, the may take your number. Bidding then proceeds to the next item and the cycle repeats.

If you realize that you were bidding on the wrong game (it happens) tell the auctioneer immediatly. You do not want to get stuck with the cruddy conversion of solitare, when you thought you were bidding on the mint Tron right next to it.

Someone often works ahead of the auctioneer to power up the games, and they sometimes get non-working games running again. If a game does not power up, the auction company may get it working during the auction. This could be a good thing (if you wanted a working game), or a bad thing (if you were hoping to get the game cheap).

LISTEN CAREFULLY TO THE AUCTIONEER DURING THE COURSE OF THE AUCTION

*Listen for the condition of the game as described by the auctioneer. This is especially useful if you missed it during the preview period, or missed the preview period entirely. I've seen a lady bid high for a Ms. Pac-Man, but she never heard the auctioneer say that it has no monitor or game board, and she couldn't see it due to the crowd of people.

*The auctioneer may set up some bidding rules on particular items. Observe the auction numbers on items. If there is a single number for a group of items, they will most likely be auctioned for one bid. Often when there are more than one of a particular item in similar condition, the auctioneer will have people bid on the items, but give the winning bidder a CHOICE of the one or more of the items, EACH at the cost of the winning bid. Be careful. I've seen people think they are getting all of the items for the winning price, and they bid too high.

*One thing to accept with a grain of salt (i.e. don't believe), is when an auctioneer says that a game is rare. The word "rare" is so often misused, it's become meaningless. Yes, some items they say are rare are truly rare, but most often not. Just use your own judgement and guidelines.

*If you stop bidding because the bid price gets too high for you, hoping to get the next one at a lower cost, you may lose any chance of getting any of the items if the winner grabs all of the items. I've seen operators win a bid, and then take every one of the items. If you really want one of the items, you may have to be the high bidder the first time; and if you don't take them all, the next bidder may get the items for a lot less. It's a gamble.

:Example: if there are 4 boxes of CDs, and the winning bid is $50, the winner may pick one of the boxes for the $50, or choose any 2 for a total of $100, or all for $200.

*NOTE: Many times the owner of an item will bid on his/her own item in an attempt to reach a higher price. Sometimes the owner will buy back their own items. This is cleverly named, a "buyback". After a while you can learn to spot these people, and if you notice that they are the only ones bidding against you, don't get caught up in "auction fever" and end up spending more than you really wanted to. Buyer beware.

During the auction, the auctioneer and the mass of people will move from game to game. With a hugh crowd, this gets uncomfortable and tiring. If you are interested in a particular game, you may want to move ahead of the crowd and stand near the game so you're
close up when it's auctioned and you can hear what the auctioneer is saying. The quality of their PA systems is often poor, and the
large rooms have a lot of echo. Bottom line, it is hard to hear a lot of the time.

Whatever isn't chosen is auctioned again.
Games are sold "as is". Period!

Please be courteous to winning bidders. Nothing makes the moment more awkward than a sore looser making his unhappiness known. Auctions are meant to be fun, not confrontational. Also...Do not play with the games that already have been won. (Unless you won it).

====After the Auction====
So, the auction is now over. It is time to pay and get your games home. It is a wierd feeling because it has been a long day, but it went fast. I usually find that I get everything done then go and sit in my car to go home and suddenly realize... Holy cow, I am tired. It is a wonderful thing to be able to open a cooler and pull out an ice cold drink just about now. Now... where did I put the keys?
; How do I pay? :It's cheaper to pay cash. Again, there is sometimes a fee for paying with credit card. Usually it is about 5%. As with the auctioneer's take, this is NOT included in the "sold" price. Cash is best, so bring lots of it!

;There is a sign that says that I can get the keys from the manager. What keys?
:Some folks that bring their games in are nice enough not to strip out the coin mechs and coin door keys. This is a great thing as now you do not have to go and purchase them your self. Usually there is a front table. The manager has a large selection of keys. They keys will be numbered according to lots just like your game. When you have your recipt, visit the table and collect your keys.

;I won and wanna go home. :After winning an item, you can pay for it and haul it away at any time during the auction. The most you will have to wait is for the auctioneers to get the selling information input into their computer systems. So, maybe give them at least a half-hour before you wait in line to pay.

;How long do I have to get my stuff out of there?
:Purchased items have to be out of the building by a certain time. Make sure you ask for this time. When bidding, be sure to keep this in mind so that you give yourself enough time to get your items out. There may be only one large exit, and other people's vehicles may be pulled up to it, meaning that you have to wait your turn to get out. Don't be caught short on time.

==Getting the Games Home==
;How do I get my games home?
:Besides money, the most important (and often neglected) item to bring to the auction is proper transportation for hauling your purchased items. Make sure you have a vehicle which can handle the items you are planning on buying. Always try to account for more room than you think you really need; not only for a safety margin, but also for those unexpected deals that pop up. Be sure to bring a tape measure and make sure you measure your vehicle's dimensions. You don't want to purchase a game only to find out later that it won't fit in your vehicle. Games usually have to be out of the place by a certain time the same day, and then you'll be stuck. Be sure to check out every game you are interested in purchasing during the preview period (see below for more info on preview periods). Try to attend with at least one other person so that they can help you move your purchased items. The items may be big and difficult for one person to move. Bring a dolly, and make sure it's strong enough to handle the weight of the machines.

:BTW, If you are renting a vehicle (Uhaul, Ryder, etc.), be sure to check out cost and conditions for milage, out-of-state transport, one-way use, and those sorts of things.

;Can the auction company deliver my games to my home?
:At many auctions, some operators will offer to transport games in the general vicinity of the auction for a fee. The auction company often makes an announcement before the start of the auction to notify people of anyone offering this service. If you decide to go this route, be sure to get all details ahead of time (cost, insurance, what if they break an item, etc.). The auction company has no part to play in this; they just announce the names of those offering this service. Use at your own risk.

:Note about Movers at the Auction... I have had a bad experience with the delivery people not really taking care with the items being transported. In fact, we hired them to deliver a garage full of games. They grabbed all the wrong places, jerked, thumped and whacked, the machines in every way they do not want to be. When they put the machines on the back gate of the truck, they dropped the gate so hard I swore pieces should have fallen off. When they were moving our Lethal Inforcers in the garage, the guy did not want to get the machine back on the dolly, so he rotated the cab on a corner and broke off the corner protector and about 3 inches of the corner. Not even an "sorry". Lastly, not all the pieces of the air hockey table we bought, showed up. They said that they would go back and look for the parts then bring them back, But we never saw them again. - MYX

;Removal of your purchased games
:Bring items to secure any games in your vehicle (rope, tie downs, etc.). If your vehicle is uncovered, bring enough tarps to protect your games from the weather. Make sure the items are loaded and secured so that they will not move at all during transport. Otherwise they will get banged up or broken when you accelerate and brake the vehicle.

:SAFETY This stuff is heavy and they are generally awkwardly weighted. You do not want to hurt your self or others because the game movement gets out of control. If you feel that you can not get the game moved by your self, GET HELP. Blowing out your back is not a good exchange for having a game at your home. Use your brain and do not do anything stupid. If you are stupid, use someone elses brain.

;Videogames :Videogames are top-heavy and tip easily. They are also sometimes (actually most of the time) very heavy. A hand truck is a great thing to use. Protect your game though. Place a packing blanket around your game. Ise a ratchet strap to strap the game to the hand truck. Then move the game. If you are moving one with a flat dolly, be sure to keep it level unless you have someone holding it upright. Stressing the point again: VIDEOGAMES TIP EASILY! Getting it into your vehicle is another place you really need to watch what you are doing. You do not want to scratch or break you new toy. When loading videogames and pinball machines on an uncovered vehicle, be sure to not face the front of the machines forward. The pressure of the wind when moving at highway speeds may break the glass.

;Pinball Machines
:Pinball machines are difficult to move. You most likely will not be able to use a dolly with them. If you're lucky, you may be able to borrow a pinball machine mover; otherwise, you'll end up carrying it to your vehicle, and they are HEAVY! When transporting a pinball machine, it's probably best to not remove the backglass (the glass with the artwork which faces you and has the scores) or topglass (the glass covering the playfield). It's too easy to drop them. If you do remove, avoid placing them flat on a hard surface; stand them up. If they do break, they usually shatter into a million pieces. Backglasses can be extremely difficult to replace as parts are hard to find, no longer being made, or are repro which are also expensive. If the back of the machine folds down onto the body of the pinball machine, place cardboard or a blanket within the fold to keep the parts from touching, and to cushion them.

;Dart Machines
:Most dart machines can be separated into two pieces (top and bottom). Check for this. If you end up disassembling a dart machine, be very careful when doing this as the top can easily tip off and crash to the floor. Also note all connections so it will be easier to reconnect later.
 
----
 
Most arcade auctions are run by US Amusements or Super Auctions. Their web sites are: 
http://www.usamusements.com 
http://www.superauctions.com 

==Quick List for the Auction==
Here is a list of things that would be very helpfull for your arcade experience. This is not a complete list, nor do you necessarily need everything on this list. It is just to quickly get you up and running. 
# Money (duh!)
# Proper transportation (You want to get your game home)
# Toll money
# Driving directions to auction location (Trust me! Use Map Quest or MSN MapPoint)
# Road map (So when MapPoint fails you can find your way back)
# Flashlight
# Tools (phillips & spade screwdrivers, socket set, pliers, etc.)
# Knife
# Tape measure
# Long (e.g. 100') extension cord
# Multi-tap or powerstrip
# Calculator (hmmm, $125 + 10% + 3% + 8%...) Or use your tip calculator on your cell phone.
# Pen
# Paper
# Clipboard
# List of games indicating which are JAMMA
# Fine point permanent marker (to mark items during disassembly)
# Tarps
# Moving blankets
# Duct tape
# Long rope
# Tie downs/Bungee cords
# Dolly and straps
# Cellulin wrap
# Walkie-talkies and extra batteries (to keep in touch with others if it's a big place, or if traveling in multiple vehicles)
# Cell Phone
# Camera
# Portable chair (often there isn't anywhere to sit)
# Handi-wipes (bathrooms don't always have soap)
# Cooler with Lunch / Sodas ("pop" for you northerners) / water

Also I recommend putting your name on everything. you take as there are a LOT of people with similar stuff. 

==Actual Auction Prices==
It is sometimes nice to see ahead of time, how much to expect to pay for their favorite game. Below are from auctions that the BYOAC community have been to and have recorded the prices.
* [[Atlanta 02-25-06 | Atlanta 02-25-06]]

For your benefit and the benefit of other collectors out there, it's very helpful to take pictures and keep track of prices and
then post this information on the here. Digital cameras and cell phone cameras are especially useful for this. If you meet other collectors at the auction, divide up the task of writing down the prices as it can be quite taxing to do this the whole day. Note: some companies do not allow you to take pictures. Apparently there was some trouble some time back with one attender taking pictures of another attenders daughter.

==See Also==
* [[Vendors]]

[[Category:Vendors]]
[[Category:Index]]

Arcade Auctions 1

2006-07-17T12:48:07Z

MYX:

==Arcade Auctions: Useful Information==
-----------------------------------
Original text by: Mario D'Alessio (Written - April 27, 2001) 
Reformatted, updated, and overly dramatized with permission by: MYX July 2006 

NOTE: The information presented here was gathered from attending
arcade auctions in the Chicago, Indianapolis, and Atlanta areas. These
auctions were run by US Amusements and Super Auctions. This info
may not apply to auctions at other locations or those run by other
auction companies.

;What is at an Arcade Auction?
:At most arcade auctions, you'll find more than just video games and pinball machines. You can find all kinds of redemption equipment, money-making items such as kiddie rides, claw machines, etc., coin-operated pool tables, dart machines, air hockey games, jukebox machines, slot machines (see below) popcorn makers, soda machines, parts (locks, marquees, circuit boards, controllers, buttons, etc.), and anything else sellers want to sell. Items I have seen auctioned include slot racers and 12' racing tracks, condom machines, boom boxes, golf clubs, and pay telephones. The items you'll see the most of are video games, pinball machines, and jukeboxes. 

:In some states, slot machines can be auctioned. You will need to check your state's laws to find out if they can be purchased. In Illinois, slot machines have been auctioned, but these were japanese machines in which the player must hit a button for each slot wheel to stop them. As such, the machines are a game of skill rather than chance and are therefore not illegal. However, in many states it is illegal to transport ANY type of slot machine. Do your homework or buy at your own risk.

;What do the games cost?
:You will usually find a mix of older games and newer games. Prices vary greatly. If you want to get a general idea of prices, see the links listed at the botom of this page for lists of recient auctions and prices. However, the chances that they will be the same at the next auction are minimal. I've seen two machines (same game, similar condition) differ by over $100 at the same auction. Anything goes. In general, older games cost less except for the classics which are highly desirable. Videogames with 25" monitors usually tend to be higher priced. Large sit-down games such as racing games tend to be very high priced (relative to other items), but may still be a bargain. Also, as the auction progresses, the crowd thins out and the auctioneer gets tired, resulting is shorter bid cycles and lower prices. But again, anything goes. At the bottom of this page there are [[Arcade_Auctions_1#Actual Auction Prices |listings of previous]] auctions and the prices the games went for.

:The auction company gets a percentage of the selling price, and this is not included in the "sold" price. So, if the auctioneer gets 13% (the usuall), and you win the bid at $100, you'll really have to pay $113 for the item. This is known as "Buyers Premium". Though kind of a drag, the auction company does need to eat.

:Additionally, Uncle Sam gets his cut too. Know your State or local sales tax rates. If you are going out of town or state ,check up on what their rates are.

:It is very important to remember these additional charges when you are bidding. It would be very sad if you won a game but could not pay for it because you did not figure in the BP and tax. Then the Auctioneer makes an announcement and the game is sold again. So sad. I use the tip calculator on my cell phone to figure out what the current cost actually is. I put 21% as the tip ammount (13%BP and 7 % tax). Then I just punch in the numbers and do not have to wonder in the heat of battle if my math is right.
:Note: They may charge you a small percentage for using a credit card. It adds up quick.

;Can I sell stuff?
:Anyone can bring items to the auction to sell. If you have items you wish to auction, contact the auction company for details. Again there is a 13% fee for selling your game. So, if the item sells for $100, you get to take home $87. Sometimes there is a fee break if you bring several items. Check with the auction company for more details about selling.

==A Day In the Life==
;Preperation :The morning of the auction, you really do not want to have anything to worry about except for getting to the auction and having a good time. So, a little preperation can help you have a great experience. The auction day is a long and somewhat tireing experience. So, plan to be there for a while (8ish in the am to start, and can go all the way up to 6:30 pm). There is a lot to do, see, and play. If you are planning to spend the day at the auction, it is a good idea to bring a cooler of drinks and enough food for 2 meals. They may not have food there, and If you have brought no food, you'll have to leave to get something and possibly miss an item you want. If you are waiting to bid on a certain machine, it could take hours for the auctioneer to reach it. If food is sold, the quality of the food is usually not very good and quite frankly a little scary (Really... how old is the nacho cheese in that warmer).
:Think ahead, Do stuff the night before rather than the morning of. A low stress level makes for a much nicer morning. If you have a long drive to get there, get gas the night before. Get some food for in the car. Gather you [[Arcade_Auctions_1#Quick List for the Auction |auction gear]], and put it IN THE CAR.
:Finally, and I am not trying to make you feel like a little kid, but go to bed early. Nothing worse than being really tired around that much tension and noise.

;Wake up :You have been very excited about the auction. you have set your alarm so you can be out of bed and to the auction house before the doors open. But, in your infinite wisdom, thought you set your alarm, you did not turn it on. You wake up feeling oddly rested. You glance over at the clock and think...Hmmm 7:30. It has been a long time since I have slept that late. Wonder what I will do toda...CRAP!!! THE AUCTION!!! (Adrenalin surge) You jump out of bed, step on the dog, the dog squeeks and in an attempt to not wake up the rest of the house you change your balance causing you to whack your toe on the dresser (hard). Trying really hard not to scream, you try make your way to the bathroom. You like it dark in your room when you sleep, I mean reall, really dark, so you do not see the laundry basket in front of you causing you to fall. Durring the fall you manage to hit your chin on the same dresser that you stubbed your toe on. The day is not starting so well. The point...don't forget to turn on your alarm. Oh, not that this ever happened to me or anything...Just a warning is all. </dramma>

;The Drive :You have made it out of the house. You got gas last night. You get in your car and head towards the auction. You get there a few minutes before 8 am. This is great as you get to go in soon (ahhh the anticipation). So you make small talk with the others who also didn't stub their toe that morning either. These folks, though similar in heart, are the competition. The folks that will be driving your game price up. So now is the time to schmooz and try to get a feel for what you are up against. "So what are YOU looking for?" you might ask. They tell you 'Michael Jackson Thriller, it's a jamma you know...". Relieved, you can call them friend as it is not the game that you came for. Actually all sillyness asside, I have met some great people I still keep in touch with at these auctions. All I can say is it is a wonderful gathering of fellow nerds.

;The Doors finally open :(Not on time by the way). You know that music at the begining of the Simpsons... You know, You see clouds then kind of angelic voices (Ahhhhh)...Well that should be the sound that happens when the doors of the auction. Time to go in an see what they have. My first auction I walked in and was very much saddened to see this little row of about 15 games with a few games behind them. Sure there was a Defender sitting there (which I eventually bought). But all in all there was just so few. Then I turned my head the other direction and realized that all I had just been looking at, were the late arrivals. There were games as far as the eye could see. Now, please do not go in expecting to see pristine machines in their glory days. Most of these games are old and have seen some abuse in their day. But instead go in looking for possibilities. The BYOAC comunity is based on the idea: BUILD, RESTORE, PLAY. So see these cabs as the a playground of toys to fix up. Now, Time to go and play.

;Register :At some point early in the prewiew period you should register to bid. Some companies like Super Auctions, will now let you register online. I'll say it again, make sure you do this as early as possible. The lines can get quite long and move very slowly. They will collect your home information and payment option. While you are registering, If you are unsure, ask them about the their payment options. Checks are genreally not accepted. It's either cash or credit card. You generally need to either put down a money deposit, or leave your driver's license with them. With some companies, once you have registered with them once, you do not need to leave your licence at your next auction as they have you on file. DO NOT forget to collect your licence at the end of the day. 

====The Preview Period====
There is a preview period before the start of the auction during which time you can power up the games and try them out. Most previews start at 8am and end when the auction opens. Most auctions are scheduled to start at 10am, but they almost always start late. Also, games are often still brought in during the preview period, so don't be too discouraged if there are not too many games when you arrive at 8am. Bring a very long extension cord to try out the games during the preview period. The places are usually very big, and outlets are often only located on the outer walls of the building. Bring a powerstrip or a multi-tap so that you can plug in multiple games or share an outlet with others (there are usually only a few outlets).

The preview period is where the fun really starts. It is a large room full of folks running around with their extension cords all looking for some little scrap of electricity to make their game turn on. You see a cluster of folks. Someone has found juice. You make your way through the huddle and find a wad of A/C splitters connected to other A/C splitters connected to powerstrips connected to other power strips, and all this is comming out of one outlet. You run your extension cord to your game. There is generally a 2 rows back to back, with a space of about 2 feet between the rows. so you make your way down the corridor of the butt sides of all the machines. This is a great place to get an idea of the condition of the machine. Often folks clean up the fronts but neglect the back ends. Just FYI. So, you get to your machine, you look on the floor and there is a scramble of plugs. so you sort out all the plugs and plug in the machine. You hear the screen zap to life so you know it came on. After a run around to the front side you realize you plugged in the machine next to the one you wanted. This is the way it goes. Finally you get your game to work. You get to play the game. Ghaw what fun. Playing the real thing, not some flash simulated web browser knock up, but the real thing. You mark down the lot number of the game and mark that it plays well. Then off to another game. Back to the plug dungeon. You plug in your next game. you coin it up and are just about to play when all the sudden all the power to about 60 games just stops. The room goes suddenly quiet. well for a second that is because the silence is usually followed by a universal...Hey man what the f...Heck happend. I find this funny. Watching people get upset when it is NEVER a good idea to plug that many things into 1 outlet. But the anger dissapates as soon as someone finds the breaker. It is a cycle that happens often throughout the morning.

Bring pen and paper to jot notes. There may be a number of a particular game and you want to know which worked and which didn't. All items being auctioned are numbered, which helps in tracking the items. the numbered item(s) are called "Lots". Sometimes the auctioneer will print a list of all items, so find out if one's available and get a copy. This is also useful for tracking selling prices. Just be aware that because pieces are still being brought in that morning, the list may not be complete. The numbers do not indicate the order by which things are auctioned.

When the preview period ends, sometimes you are asked not to power up or open anything (But if not...GAME ON!!!)

BTW, A game is considered working "all the way" if it powers up, and video games show a picture (even a horrible picture, as most bad
pictures can be corrected with monitor adjustments or cheap fixes).

====Things to look for when you preview a game====
*Check out the cosmetic condition of the item.
*Check the operational condition: buttons and controls work, monitor and picture quality, LED lights on pinball scores, etc.
*Open the coin doors (if not locked) and take a good look inside. A flashlight is useful for looking around. Check for existance of all necessary parts, manuals, coins, dead mice, water damage, etc.
*Power up the machine. For video games, look for toggle switches on top, in back, or on the lower sides of the machines. For pinball games, look underneath or on top of the back portion of the game, or on the lower right side for some older machines. Rarely are power switches inside the coin doors.
*If a game powers up, play the game. To do this, you'll have to coin up (credit) the machine. If the coin doors are not locked,look inside for a credit switch. Otherwise, you can trigger a credit by triggering the coin detecting mechanism. It's difficult to explain here in text, so if you don't know how to do this, ask around. Someone should be able to help. You'll also find out if the coin mechanisms work at all. If you care about the coin mechs, try triggering them by inserting a quarter (which you'll be able to take back if the coin doors are open).
*You are usually asked not to open the backs of video games. Even if you are not asked, it's best to avoid doing this! It's too easy for the back panel to fall and break the neck of the monitor. With many people moving around the games, mistakes will happen. Also, you may be mistaken for sabotaging the machine and be kicked out of the auction (it's happened). Once you purchase a game, then you can do whatever you want with it.
*Many 3+ player videogames have oversized control panels which are wider than the body of the game. These can usually be removed for easier transport, and for fitting the game through your door. Make sure you check for this unless you have plenty of room in your vehicle, and the game's destination has a large enough entranceway. If you disconnect the panel, be sure to mark the connectors for easy reassembly.
*Many games are conversions. A conversion came from the factory as one game, and was later converted into another game by an operator. If you are interested in originals only, make sure you check if the game is a conversion. For example, a Mortal Kombat may have been created from a Centipede cabinet (oh, the pain!). Some games look like nothing more than a combination of spare parts. Go to the KLOV site (see below) for info on video games and pics of originals. Also be aware that if a game is a conversion, it may be a different size than you first thought. So don't forget to measure it.
*For pinball machines, make sure you check if the back of the machine folds down or disconnects (not all do, or are troublesome to disconnect). Otherwise, you may have a tough time fitting the machine in your vehicle (if the back doesn't come down, it may not even fit into a full-sized van). On most pinballs, the legs can be removed for easier transport. Bring tools to undo any bolts (wrench, screwdrivers, etc.)
*Check the condition of the plastics on pinball machine playfields, especially the ramps. Broken parts can be very expensive to replace. If the game has an LED dot matrix display, be sure to check this as these are very expensive as well.
*For dart machines, power up the machine and start a game. Hit dartboard segments to see if they register. Some may be dead, or the whole dartboard may be dead. Some don't play cricket (a very popular dart game), so check this if you want it.
*For jukeboxes, check if it plays records (45s) or CDs. Check if the 45s or CDs are included. Often, boxes of records or CDs are auctioned separately. Since 45s are no longer made, the jukeboxes that play them tend to be cheaper, but the 45s themselves tend to be more expensive and tougher to find.

====The Auction Begins====
Usually they will make a few announcements that the auction is about to begin. If you have not registered, DO IT NOW. You do not want to be standing in line and watch all those games slip away.

The bidding usually goes like this: The auctioneer will offer a starting price or an "opening bid". If nobody accepts this bid, he
will lower the opening bid until someone accepts his offer. Once the offer is accepted, the auctioneer will ask for the next incremental bid. The bid increments vary depending on the average cost of the items. For most games, the increments are usually $25, and may be $12.50 when things get heated. Listen to the auctioneer at the start of the auction. You'll look like a fool if you bid $301 when the price is currently $300. The price will go up and up if people keep bidding. Once the bidding has plateued and one person has accepted a bid that no one else will chalenge, the auctioneer will close out the battle by saying "going... going.... SOLD", (or "Gone"). At this point no more bids will be taken (no mater how much you beg). The last person to make a bid (i.e. the one willing to pay the most for the item in question) "wins" the bid and gets the item. They will ask you for your buyer number. They record your number and give it to the cashier. There is no backing out at this point. If you do try to back out, they will make an announcement, everyone will look at you and groan, and depending on the reason for the backout, the may take your number. Bidding then proceeds to the next item and the cycle repeats.

If you realize that you were bidding on the wrong game (it happens) tell the auctioneer immediatly. You do not want to get stuck with the cruddy conversion of solitare, when you thought you were bidding on the mint Tron right next to it.

Someone often works ahead of the auctioneer to power up the games, and they sometimes get non-working games running again. If a game does not power up, the auction company may get it working during the auction. This could be a good thing (if you wanted a working game), or a bad thing (if you were hoping to get the game cheap).

LISTEN CAREFULLY TO THE AUCTIONEER DURING THE COURSE OF THE AUCTION

*Listen for the condition of the game as described by the auctioneer. This is especially useful if you missed it during the preview period, or missed the preview period entirely. I've seen a lady bid high for a Ms. Pac-Man, but she never heard the auctioneer say that it has no monitor or game board, and she couldn't see it due to the crowd of people.

*The auctioneer may set up some bidding rules on particular items. Observe the auction numbers on items. If there is a single number for a group of items, they will most likely be auctioned for one bid. Often when there are more than one of a particular item in similar condition, the auctioneer will have people bid on the items, but give the winning bidder a CHOICE of the one or more of the items, EACH at the cost of the winning bid. Be careful. I've seen people think they are getting all of the items for the winning price, and they bid too high.

*One thing to accept with a grain of salt (i.e. don't believe), is when an auctioneer says that a game is rare. The word "rare" is so often misused, it's become meaningless. Yes, some items they say are rare are truly rare, but most often not. Just use your own judgement and guidelines.

*If you stop bidding because the bid price gets too high for you, hoping to get the next one at a lower cost, you may lose any chance of getting any of the items if the winner grabs all of the items. I've seen operators win a bid, and then take every one of the items. If you really want one of the items, you may have to be the high bidder the first time; and if you don't take them all, the next bidder may get the items for a lot less. It's a gamble.

:Example: if there are 4 boxes of CDs, and the winning bid is $50, the winner may pick one of the boxes for the $50, or choose any 2 for a total of $100, or all for $200.

*NOTE: Many times the owner of an item will bid on his/her own item in an attempt to reach a higher price. Sometimes the owner will buy back their own items. This is cleverly named, a "buyback". After a while you can learn to spot these people, and if you notice that they are the only ones bidding against you, don't get caught up in "auction fever" and end up spending more than you really wanted to. Buyer beware.

During the auction, the auctioneer and the mass of people will move from game to game. With a hugh crowd, this gets uncomfortable and tiring. If you are interested in a particular game, you may want to move ahead of the crowd and stand near the game so you're
close up when it's auctioned and you can hear what the auctioneer is saying. The quality of their PA systems is often poor, and the
large rooms have a lot of echo. Bottom line, it is hard to hear a lot of the time.

Whatever isn't chosen is auctioned again.
Games are sold "as is". Period!

Please be courteous to winning bidders. Nothing makes the moment more awkward than a sore looser making his unhappiness known. Auctions are meant to be fun, not confrontational. Also...Do not play with the games that already have been won. (Unless you won it).

====After the Auction====
So, the auction is now over. It is time to pay and get your games home. It is a wierd feeling because it has been a long day, but it went fast. I usually find that I get everything done then go and sit in my car to go home and suddenly realize... Holy cow, I am tired. It is a wonderful thing to be able to open a cooler and pull out an ice cold drink just about now. Now... where did I put the keys?
; How do I pay? :It's cheaper to pay cash. Again, there is sometimes a fee for paying with credit card. Usually it is about 5%. As with the auctioneer's take, this is NOT included in the "sold" price. Cash is best, so bring lots of it!

;There is a sign that says that I can get the keys from the manager. What keys?
:Some folks that bring their games in are nice enough not to strip out the coin mechs and coin door keys. This is a great thing as now you do not have to go and purchase them your self. Usually there is a front table. The manager has a large selection of keys. They keys will be numbered according to lots just like your game. When you have your recipt, visit the table and collect your keys.

;I won and wanna go home. :After winning an item, you can pay for it and haul it away at any time during the auction. The most you will have to wait is for the auctioneers to get the selling information input into their computer systems. So, maybe give them at least a half-hour before you wait in line to pay.

;How long do I have to get my stuff out of there?
:Purchased items have to be out of the building by a certain time. Make sure you ask for this time. When bidding, be sure to keep this in mind so that you give yourself enough time to get your items out. There may be only one large exit, and other people's vehicles may be pulled up to it, meaning that you have to wait your turn to get out. Don't be caught short on time.

==Getting the Games Home==
;How do I get my games home?
:Besides money, the most important (and often neglected) item to bring to the auction is proper transportation for hauling your purchased items. Make sure you have a vehicle which can handle the items you are planning on buying. Always try to account for more room than you think you really need; not only for a safety margin, but also for those unexpected deals that pop up. Be sure to bring a tape measure and make sure you measure your vehicle's dimensions. You don't want to purchase a game only to find out later that it won't fit in your vehicle. Games usually have to be out of the place by a certain time the same day, and then you'll be stuck. Be sure to check out every game you are interested in purchasing during the preview period (see below for more info on preview periods). Try to attend with at least one other person so that they can help you move your purchased items. The items may be big and difficult for one person to move. Bring a dolly, and make sure it's strong enough to handle the weight of the machines.

:BTW, If you are renting a vehicle (Uhaul, Ryder, etc.), be sure to check out cost and conditions for milage, out-of-state transport, one-way use, and those sorts of things.

;Can the auction company deliver my games to my home?
:At many auctions, some operators will offer to transport games in the general vicinity of the auction for a fee. The auction company often makes an announcement before the start of the auction to notify people of anyone offering this service. If you decide to go this route, be sure to get all details ahead of time (cost, insurance, what if they break an item, etc.). The auction company has no part to play in this; they just announce the names of those offering this service. Use at your own risk.

:Note about Movers at the Auction... I have had a bad experience with the delivery people not really taking care with the items being transported. In fact, we hired them to deliver a garage full of games. They grabbed all the wrong places, jerked, thumped and whacked, the machines in every way they do not want to be. When they put the machines on the back gate of the truck, they dropped the gate so hard I swore pieces should have fallen off. When they were moving our Lethal Inforcers in the garage, the guy did not want to get the machine back on the dolly, so he rotated the cab on a corner and broke off the corner protector and about 3 inches of the corner. Not even an "sorry". Lastly, not all the pieces of the air hockey table we bought, showed up. They said that they would go back and look for the parts then bring them back, But we never saw them again. - MYX

;Removal of your purchased games
:Bring items to secure any games in your vehicle (rope, tie downs, etc.). If your vehicle is uncovered, bring enough tarps to protect your games from the weather. Make sure the items are loaded and secured so that they will not move at all during transport. Otherwise they will get banged up or broken when you accelerate and brake the vehicle.

:SAFETY This stuff is heavy and they are generally awkwardly weighted. You do not want to hurt your self or others because the game movement gets out of control. If you feel that you can not get the game moved by your self, GET HELP. Blowing out your back is not a good exchange for having a game at your home. Use your brain and do not do anything stupid. If you are stupid, use someone elses brain.

;Videogames :Videogames are top-heavy and tip easily. They are also sometimes (actually most of the time) very heavy. A hand truck is a great thing to use. Protect your game though. Place a packing blanket around your game. Ise a ratchet strap to strap the game to the hand truck. Then move the game. If you are moving one with a flat dolly, be sure to keep it level unless you have someone holding it upright. Stressing the point again: VIDEOGAMES TIP EASILY! Getting it into your vehicle is another place you really need to watch what you are doing. You do not want to scratch or break you new toy. When loading videogames and pinball machines on an uncovered vehicle, be sure to not face the front of the machines forward. The pressure of the wind when moving at highway speeds may break the glass.

;Pinball Machines
:Pinball machines are difficult to move. You most likely will not be able to use a dolly with them. If you're lucky, you may be able to borrow a pinball machine mover; otherwise, you'll end up carrying it to your vehicle, and they are HEAVY! When transporting a pinball machine, it's probably best to not remove the backglass (the glass with the artwork which faces you and has the scores) or topglass (the glass covering the playfield). It's too easy to drop them. If you do remove, avoid placing them flat on a hard surface; stand them up. If they do break, they usually shatter into a million pieces. Backglasses can be extremely difficult to replace as parts are hard to find, no longer being made, or are repro which are also expensive. If the back of the machine folds down onto the body of the pinball machine, place cardboard or a blanket within the fold to keep the parts from touching, and to cushion them.

;Dart Machines
:Most dart machines can be separated into two pieces (top and bottom). Check for this. If you end up disassembling a dart machine, be very careful when doing this as the top can easily tip off and crash to the floor. Also note all connections so it will be easier to reconnect later.
 
----
 
Most arcade auctions are run by US Amusements or Super Auctions. Their web sites are: 
http://www.usamusements.com 
http://www.superauctions.com 

==Quick List for the Auction==
Here is a list of things that would be very helpfull for your arcade experience. This is not a complete list, nor do you necessarily need everything on this list. It is just to quickly get you up and running. 
# Money (duh!)
# Proper transportation (You want to get your game home)
# Toll money
# Driving directions to auction location (Trust me! Use Map Quest or MSN MapPoint)
# Road map (So when MapPoint fails you can find your way back)
# Flashlight
# Tools (phillips & spade screwdrivers, socket set, pliers, etc.)
# Knife
# Tape measure
# Long (e.g. 100') extension cord
# Multi-tap or powerstrip
# Calculator (hmmm, $125 + 10% + 3% + 8%...) Or use your tip calculator on your cell phone.
# Pen
# Paper
# Clipboard
# List of games indicating which are JAMMA
# Fine point permanent marker (to mark items during disassembly)
# Tarps
# Moving blankets
# Duct tape
# Long rope
# Tie downs/Bungee cords
# Dolly and straps
# Cellulin wrap
# Walkie-talkies and extra batteries (to keep in touch with others if it's a big place, or if traveling in multiple vehicles)
# Cell Phone
# Camera
# Portable chair (often there isn't anywhere to sit)
# Handi-wipes (bathrooms don't always have soap)
# Cooler with Lunch / Sodas ("pop" for you northerners) / water

Also I recommend putting your name on everything. you take as there are a LOT of people with similar stuff. 

==Actual Auction Prices==
It is sometimes nice to see ahead of time, how much to expect to pay for their favorite game. Below are from auctions that the BYOAC community have been to and have recorded the prices.
* [[Atlanta 02-25-06 | Atlanta 02-25-06]]

For your benefit and the benefit of other collectors out there, it's very helpful to take pictures and keep track of prices and
then post this information on the here. Digital cameras and cell phone cameras are especially useful for this. If you meet other collectors at the auction, divide up the task of writing down the prices as it can be quite taxing to do this the whole day. Note: some companies do not allow you to take pictures. Apparently there was some trouble some time back with one attender taking pictures of another attenders daughter.

==See Also==
* [[Vendors]]

[[Category:Vendors]]
[[Category:Index]]

Atlanta 02-25-06

2006-07-17T12:36:25Z

MYX: Added top comments

The February auction was awesome. There were so many games. 4+ Hall length rows plus 2 rows of Juke boxes, redemption games, and a few slots. there was also a very large selection of gambling videos, bartops, pool tables and Airhocky. The jukes, redemptions, slots, bartops and tables are not listed here. As it was, this was nearly 6 hours of writing. Hope this is helpful. - MYX

==Cocktails==
 
{|border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" align="left" style="border:1px solid silver; background:#EEEEEE;"

!width="150" align="left" | Game
!width="100" align="left" | Selling Price
!width="400" align="left" | Comments
|-
| Centipede || $375.00 ||
|-
| Galaga || $550.00 ||
|-
| Ms. Pacman || $630.00 || New Monitor
|-
| Multigame || $955.00 || 4 game
|-
| Multigame || $655.00 || 4 game
|-
| Multigame || $1,500.00 || 75 game Plus 1 year warantee
|-
| Multigame || $1,400.00 || 75 game Plus 1 year warantee
|-
|}
 
 
;[[Arcade_Auctions_1 |Go Back to Arcade Auctions]]
 
 
==Uprights (Row 1)==
{|border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" align="left" style="border:1px solid silver; background:#EEEEEE;"

!width="150" align="left" | Game
!width="100" align="left" | Selling Price
!width="400" align="left" | Comments
|-
|Beachhead ||$800.00||
|-
|Birdy King||$50.00||Really Dark Monitor
|-
|Carnival King||$500.00||
|-
|Centipede||$275.00||
|-
|Centipede||$400.00||
|-
|Crystal Castles||$275.00||Looked like some ROM issues. Pristene cab though
|-
|Eyes||$50.00||
|-
|Final Assult WAR||$650.00||
|-
|Fisherman's Bait||$375.00||
|-
|Galaga||$700.00||
|-
|Galaga||$500.00||
|-
|Galaxian||$375.00||
|-
|Gauntler Dark Legacy||$500.00||
|-
|Golden Tee||$1,650.00||2005
|-
|Golden Tee||$1,650.00||2005
|-
|Golden Tee||$700.00||
|-
|Golden Tee||$1,650.00||2005
|-
|Golden Tee||$675.00||2004
|-
|Hang On||$160.00||
|-
|Leathal||Enforcers||$250.00
|-
|Leathal||Enforcers||$300.00
|-
|Martial||Champion||$275.00
|-
|MK||$175.00||
|-
|MK 2||$400.00||
|-
|Ms. Pacman||$450.00||Pac Man Cab + Speed Chip
|-
|Ms. Pacman||$175.00||
|-
|Ms. Pacman||$400.00||
|-
|Ms. Pacman||$450.00||
|-
|Ms. Pacman||$325.00||
|-
|Ms. Pacman||$425.00||
|-
|Ms. Pacman||$475.00||
|-
|Ms. Pacman||$200.00||Bad Conversion Paper bezel and marquee + wavy monitor
|-
|Ms. Pacman / Galaga||$750.00||
|-
|Multi Arcade 75 Game||$1,150.00||
|-
|Multi Arcade 75 Game||$1,150.00||
|-
|Multi Arcade 75 Game||$1,150.00||
|-
|Multicade 39 game||$1,200.00||
|-
|Multicade 4 game||$550.00|| Trackball only
|-
|Multicade 9 game||$900.00||
|-
|Multicade 9 game ||$900.00||
|-
|Multicade 9 game ||$900.00||
|-
|Multicade 4 game||$850.00||
|-
|Naomi CandyCab||$275.00||Slashout?
|-
|NBA Jam||$160.00||
|-
|NeoGeo 2 Slot||$500.00||
|-
|Pacman||$425.00||Speed Chip
|-
|Pacman||$225.00||In a Make Trax Cab. Little Printer paper “Pacman” taped to the marquee
|-
|PacPlus||$100.00||
|-
|Rampage World Tour||$250.00||
|-
|Return of the Jedi||$400.00||
|-
|Road Blasters||$285.00||
|-
|Sly Spy||$225.00||
|-
|Street Fighter Champion Edition||$270.00||
|-
|Street Fighter II||$450.00||
|-
|Super Monaco GP||$210.00||
|-
|Super Monaco GP||$220.00||
|-
|Terminator||$325.00||
|-
|Tetris||$200.00||
|-
|Ultracade||$950.00||
|-
|Virtua Racing||$375.00||
|-
|World Series||$475.00||
|-
|Xmen||$275.00||
|-
|}
 
 
;[[Arcade_Auctions_1 |Go Back to Arcade Auctions]]
 
==Uprights (Row 2)==
 
{|border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" align="left" style="border:1px solid silver; background:#EEEEEE;"
!width="150" align="left" | Game
!width="100" align="left" | Selling Price
!width="400" align="left" | Comments
|-
|1000 Mile Rally||$150.00||
|-
|Aero Fighter 3||$100.00||
|-
|Area 51||$100.00||
|-
|Blitz 99||$300.00||
|-
|Blitz 99||$375.00||
|-
|Blitz 99||$225.00||
|-
|Centipede||$250.00||
|-
|Congo Bongo||$360.00||Beautiful shape
|-
|Die Hard Arcade||$100.00||
|-
|Donkey Kong Jr.||$100.00||Not working
|-
|Final Assult WAR||$425.00||
|-
|Gunsmoke||$120.00||Really jittery monitor
|-
|Hard Drivin'||$25.00||Ghaw!
|-
|High Impact||$250.00||
|-
|Killer Instinct||$325.00||
|-
|KLAX||$50.00||
|-
|Leathal Enforcers||$200.00||
|-
|Leathal Enforcers GunFighters||$225.00||
|-
|Mario Bros.||$150.00||For the age, it was in nice shape
|-
|Maximum Force||$525.00||
|-
|Maximum Force||$350.00||
|-
|Metal Slug X||$250.00||
|-
|Michael Jackson Moonwalker||$175.00||
|-
|MK 2||$300.00||
|-
|MK 2||$275.00||
|-
|MK 2||$150.00||Not working
|-
|MK 3||$350.00||
|-
|MK 3||$325.00||
|-
|MK 4||$350.00||
|-
|MK 4||$300.00||
|-
|Ms. Pacman||$525.00||Mini
|-
|Ms. Pacman||$225.00||
|-
|Ms. Pacman / Galaga||$600.00||
|-
|Multicade 23 Game||$920.00||
|-
|Multicade 23 Game||$960.00||
|-
|NBA Jam||$175.00||
|-
|NeoGeo 1 Slot||$275.00||Bust a Move
|-
|Outrun||$50.00||No Force Feedback
|-
|Paperboy||$50.00||Wouldn't coin up. But seemed to work
|-
|valign="top"|Pole Position||valign="top"|$35.00||We drove next to this on the way down to the auction. It was unprotected in the rain the whole time. Soaking wet. :(
|-
|Racin Force||$50.00||
|-
|Soul Edge||$175.00||
|-
|Space Invaders||$25.00||Mini - Not in beautiful shape. In fact just plain sad.
|-
|Tecmo Bowl||$50.00||Big sucker
|-
|Tetris||$300.00||
|-
|Thunderblade||$110.00||
|-
|Tiger Heli||$85.00||Caberet
|-
|TMNT||$190.00||
|-
|Ultimate MK 3||$225.00||
|-
|Virtua Fighter||$125.00||
|-
|Virtua Fighter||$375.00||
|-
|Virtua Fighter 2||$225.00||
|-
|Wrestle Mania||$250.00||
|-
|Xmen vs. Street Fighter||$350.00||
|-
|Xmen vs. Street Fighter||$335.00||
|-
|Zaxon||$50.00||
|-
|}
 
 
;[[Arcade_Auctions_1 |Go Back to Arcade Auctions]]
 
==Sit Downs and Large Screen Games==
 
{|border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" align="left" style="border:1px solid silver; background:#EEEEEE;"
!width="150" align="left" | Game
!width="100" align="left" | Selling Price
!width="400" align="left" | Comments
|-
|6 Gun||$600.00||
|-
|Area 51 Site 4||$385.00||
|-
|Blitz 2000||$500.00||
|-
|California Speed||$550.00||
|-
|Crisis Zone||$550.00||
|-
|Cruisin Exotica||$2,400.00||
|-
|Cruisin Exotica||$1,100.00||
|-
|Cruisin Exotica||$1,200.00||
|-
|Cruisin Exotica||$2,425.00||
|-
|Cruisin USA||$500.00||Not working
|-
|Cruisin USA||$600.00||
|-
|Cruisin USA||$650.00||
|-
|Cruisin USA||$280.00||
|-
|Crusin World||$725.00||
|-
|Dark Silhouett||$1,300.00||
|-
|Daytona USA||$525.00||
|-
|Daytona USA||$525.00||
|-
|Dirt Devils||$1,050.00||
|-
|Hunter (?)||$600.00||
|-
|Hydro Thunder||$1,100.00||Really Nice
|-
|Hydro Thunder||$850.00||Washed out monitor. No force feedback
|-
|Indie 500||$850.00||
|-
|Indie 500||$675.00||2 unit game
|-
|Moto Frenzy||$150.00||
|-
|San Francisco Rush||$600.00||
|-
|San Francisco Rush||$475.00||
|-
|Sega Super GT||$1,650.00||2 unit game
|-
|Super Hang On||$170.00||
|-
|Surf Planet||$25.00||
|-
|Suzuki||$50.00||
|-
|Time Crisis||$1,450.00||
|-
|Time Crisis||$1,450.00||
|-
|TMEK||$200.00||2 unit game
|-
|}

 
 
;[[Arcade_Auctions_1 |Go Back to Arcade Auctions]]
 

==Pinballs==
 
{|border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" align="left" style="border:1px solid silver; background:#EEEEEE;"
!width="200" align="left" | Game
!width="100" align="left" | Selling Price
|-
|Adams Family||$2,225.00
|-
|Bad Girls||$350.00
|-
|Baywatch||?
|-
|Bride of Pinbot||$1,300.00
|-
|Creature from the Black Lagoon||$1,900.00
|-
|Doctor Who||?
|-
|Dracula||$1,400.00
|-
|Fish tales||$1,375.00
|-
|Flash||$735.00
|-
|Gilligans Island||$1,325.00
|-
|GoldenEye||$1,025.00
|-
|Indianapolis 500||$1,475.00
|-
|Junkyard||$1,700.00
|-
|Knockout||$275.00
|-
|Monopoly||$1,875.00
|-
|Nascar||$2,925.00
|-
|Playboy||$1,500.00
|-
|Shootout||$1,410.00
|-
|Silver Slugger||$200.00
|-
|}
 
 

;[[Arcade_Auctions_1 |Go Back to Arcade Auctions]]

Arcade Auctions 1

2006-07-16T14:13:14Z

MYX: /* Getting the Games Home */

==Arcade Auctions: Useful Information==
-----------------------------------
Original text by: Mario D'Alessio (Written - April 27, 2001) 
Reformatted, updated, and overly dramatized with permission by: MYX July 2006 

NOTE: The information presented here was gathered from attending
arcade auctions in the Chicago, Indianapolis, and Atlanta areas. These
auctions were run by US Amusements and Super Auctions. This info
may not apply to auctions at other locations or those run by other
auction companies.

;What is at an Arcade Auction?
:At most arcade auctions, you'll find more than just video games and pinball machines. You can find all kinds of redemption equipment, money-making items such as kiddie rides, claw machines, etc., coin-operated pool tables, dart machines, air hockey games, jukebox machines, slot machines (see below) popcorn makers, soda machines, parts (locks, marquees, circuit boards, controllers, buttons, etc.), and anything else sellers want to sell. Items I have seen auctioned include slot racers and 12' racing tracks, condom machines, boom boxes, golf clubs, and pay telephones. The items you'll see the most of are video games, pinball machines, and jukeboxes. 

:In some states, slot machines can be auctioned. You will need to check your state's laws to find out if they can be purchased. In Illinois, slot machines have been auctioned, but these were japanese machines in which the player must hit a button for each slot wheel to stop them. As such, the machines are a game of skill rather than chance and are therefore not illegal. However, in many states it is illegal to transport ANY type of slot machine. Do your homework or buy at your own risk.

;What do the games cost?
:You will usually find a mix of older games and newer games. Prices vary greatly. If you want to get a general idea of prices, see the links listed at the botom of this page for lists of recient auctions and prices. However, the chances that they will be the same at the next auction are minimal. I've seen two machines (same game, similar condition) differ by over $100 at the same auction. Anything goes. In general, older games cost less except for the classics which are highly desirable. Videogames with 25" monitors usually tend to be higher priced. Large sit-down games such as racing games tend to be very high priced (relative to other items), but may still be a bargain. Also, as the auction progresses, the crowd thins out and the auctioneer gets tired, resulting is shorter bid cycles and lower prices. But again, anything goes. At the bottom of this page there are [[Arcade_Auctions_1#Actual Auction Prices |listings of previous]] auctions and the prices the games went for.

:The auction company gets a percentage of the selling price, and this is not included in the "sold" price. So, if the auctioneer gets 13% (the usuall), and you win the bid at $100, you'll really have to pay $113 for the item. This is known as "Buyers Premium". Though kind of a drag, the auction company does need to eat.

:Additionally, Uncle Sam gets his cut too. Know your State or local sales tax rate.

:It is very important to remember these additional charges when you are bidding. It would be very sad if you won a game but could not pay for it because you did not figure in the BP and tax. Then the Auctioneer makes an announcement and the game is sold again. So sad. I use the tip calculator on my cell phone to figure out what the current cost actually is. I put 21% as the tip ammount (13%BP and 7 % tax). Then I just punch in the numbers and do not have to wonder in the heat of battle if my math is right.
:Note: They may charge you a small percentage for using a credit card. It adds up quick.

;Can I sell stuff?
:Anyone can bring items to the auction to sell. If you have items you wish to auction, contact the auction company for details. Again there is a 13% fee for selling your game. So, if the item sells for $100, you get to take home $87. Sometimes there is a fee break if you bring several items. Check with the auction company for more details about selling.

==A Day In the Life==
;Preperation :The morning of the auction, you really do not want to have anything to worry about except for getting to the auction and having a good time. So, a little preperation can help you have a great experience. The auction day is a long and somewhat tireing experience. So, plan to be there for a while (8ish in the am to start, and can go all the way up to 6:30 pm). There is a lot to do, see, and play. If you are planning to spend the day at the auction, it is a good idea to bring a cooler of drinks and enough food for 2 meals. They may not have food there, and If you have brought no food, you'll have to leave to get something and possibly miss an item you want. If you are waiting to bid on a certain machine, it could take hours for the auctioneer to reach it. If food is sold, the quality of the food is usually not very good and quite frankly a little scary (Really... how old is the nacho cheese in that warmer).
:Think ahead, Do stuff the night before rather than the morning of. A low stress level makes for a much nicer morning. If you have a long drive to get there, get gas the night before. Get some food for in the car. Gather you [[Arcade_Auctions_1#Quick List for the Auction |auction gear]], and put it IN THE CAR.
:Finally, and I am not trying to make you feel like a little kid, but go to bed early. Nothing worse than being really tired around that much tension and noise.

;Wake up :You have been very excited about the auction. you have set your alarm so you can be out of bed and to the auction house before the doors open. But, in your infinite wisdom, thought you set your alarm, you did not turn it on. You wake up feeling oddly rested. You glance over at the clock and think...Hmmm 7:30. It has been a long time since I have slept that late. Wonder what I will do toda...CRAP!!! THE AUCTION!!! (Adrenalin surge) You jump out of bed, step on the dog, the dog squeeks and in an attempt to not wake up the rest of the house you change your balance causing you to whack your toe on the dresser (hard). Trying really hard not to scream, you try make your way to the bathroom. You like it dark in your room when you sleep, I mean reall, really dark, so you do not see the laundry basket in front of you causing you to fall. Durring the fall you manage to hit your chin on the same dresser that you stubbed your toe on. The day is not starting so well. The point...don't forget to turn on your alarm. Oh, not that this ever happened to me or anything...Just a warning is all. </dramma>

;The Drive :You have made it out of the house. You got gas last night. You get in your car and head towards the auction. You get there a few minutes before 8 am. This is great as you get to go in soon (ahhh the anticipation). So you make small talk with the others who also didn't stub their toe that morning either. These folks, though similar in heart, are the competition. The folks that will be driving your game price up. So now is the time to schmooz and try to get a feel for what you are up against. "So what are YOU looking for?" you might ask. They tell you 'Michael Jackson Thriller, it's a jamma you know...". Relieved, you can call them friend as it is not the game that you came for. Actually all sillyness asside, I have met some great people I still keep in touch with at these auctions. All I can say is it is a wonderful gathering of fellow nerds.

;The Doors finally open :(Not on time by the way). You know that music at the begining of the Simpsons... You know, You see clouds then kind of angelic voices (Ahhhhh)...Well that should be the sound that happens when the doors of the auction. Time to go in an see what they have. My first auction I walked in and was very much saddened to see this little row of about 15 games with a few games behind them. Sure there was a Defender sitting there (which I eventually bought). But all in all there was just so few. Then I turned my head the other direction and realized that all I had just been looking at, were the late arrivals. There were games as far as the eye could see. Now, please do not go in expecting to see pristine machines in their glory days. Most of these games are old and have seen some abuse in their day. But instead go in looking for possibilities. The BYOAC comunity is based on the idea: BUILD, RESTORE, PLAY. So see these cabs as the a playground of toys to fix up. Now, Time to go and play.

;Register :At some point early in the prewiew period you should register to bid. Some companies like Super Auctions, will now let you register online. I'll say it again, make sure you do this as early as possible. The lines can get quite long and move very slowly. They will collect your home information and payment option. While you are registering, If you are unsure, ask them about the their payment options. Checks are genreally not accepted. It's either cash or credit card. You generally need to either put down a money deposit, or leave your driver's license with them. With some companies, once you have registered with them once, you do not need to leave your licence at your next auction as they have you on file. DO NOT forget to collect your licence at the end of the day. 

====The Preview Period====
There is a preview period before the start of the auction during which time you can power up the games and try them out. Most previews start at 8am and end when the auction opens. Most auctions are scheduled to start at 10am, but they almost always start late. Also, games are often still brought in during the preview period, so don't be too discouraged if there are not too many games when you arrive at 8am. Bring a very long extension cord to try out the games during the preview period. The places are usually very big, and outlets are often only located on the outer walls of the building. Bring a powerstrip or a multi-tap so that you can plug in multiple games or share an outlet with others (there are usually only a few outlets).

The preview period is where the fun really starts. It is a large room full of folks running around with their extension cords all looking for some little scrap of electricity to make their game turn on. You see a cluster of folks. Someone has found juice. You make your way through the huddle and find a wad of A/C splitters connected to other A/C splitters connected to powerstrips connected to other power strips, and all this is comming out of one outlet. You run your extension cord to your game. There is generally a 2 rows back to back, with a space of about 2 feet between the rows. so you make your way down the corridor of the butt sides of all the machines. This is a great place to get an idea of the condition of the machine. Often folks clean up the fronts but neglect the back ends. Just FYI. So, you get to your machine, you look on the floor and there is a scramble of plugs. so you sort out all the plugs and plug in the machine. You hear the screen zap to life so you know it came on. After a run around to the front side you realize you plugged in the machine next to the one you wanted. This is the way it goes. Finally you get your game to work. You get to play the game. Ghaw what fun. Playing the real thing, not some flash simulated web browser knock up, but the real thing. You mark down the lot number of the game and mark that it plays well. Then off to another game. Back to the plug dungeon. You plug in your next game. you coin it up and are just about to play when all the sudden all the power to about 60 games just stops. The room goes suddenly quiet. well for a second that is because the silence is usually followed by a universal...Hey man what the f...Heck happend. I find this funny. Watching people get upset when it is NEVER a good idea to plug that many things into 1 outlet. But the anger dissapates as soon as someone finds the breaker. It is a cycle that happens often throughout the morning.

Bring pen and paper to jot notes. There may be a number of a particular game and you want to know which worked and which didn't. All items being auctioned are numbered, which helps in tracking the items. the numbered item(s) are called "Lots". Sometimes the auctioneer will print a list of all items, so find out if one's available and get a copy. This is also useful for tracking selling prices. Just be aware that because pieces are still being brought in that morning, the list may not be complete. The numbers do not indicate the order by which things are auctioned.

When the preview period ends, sometimes you are asked not to power up or open anything (But if not...GAME ON!!!)

BTW, A game is considered working "all the way" if it powers up, and video games show a picture (even a horrible picture, as most bad
pictures can be corrected with monitor adjustments or cheap fixes).

====Things to look for when you preview a game====
*Check out the cosmetic condition of the item.
*Check the operational condition: buttons and controls work, monitor and picture quality, LED lights on pinball scores, etc.
*Open the coin doors (if not locked) and take a good look inside. A flashlight is useful for looking around. Check for existance of all necessary parts, manuals, coins, dead mice, water damage, etc.
*Power up the machine. For video games, look for toggle switches on top, in back, or on the lower sides of the machines. For pinball games, look underneath or on top of the back portion of the game, or on the lower right side for some older machines. Rarely are power switches inside the coin doors.
*If a game powers up, play the game. To do this, you'll have to coin up (credit) the machine. If the coin doors are not locked,look inside for a credit switch. Otherwise, you can trigger a credit by triggering the coin detecting mechanism. It's difficult to explain here in text, so if you don't know how to do this, ask around. Someone should be able to help. You'll also find out if the coin mechanisms work at all. If you care about the coin mechs, try triggering them by inserting a quarter (which you'll be able to take back if the coin doors are open).
*You are usually asked not to open the backs of video games. Even if you are not asked, it's best to avoid doing this! It's too easy for the back panel to fall and break the neck of the monitor. With many people moving around the games, mistakes will happen. Also, you may be mistaken for sabotaging the machine and be kicked out of the auction (it's happened). Once you purchase a game, then you can do whatever you want with it.
*Many 3+ player videogames have oversized control panels which are wider than the body of the game. These can usually be removed for easier transport, and for fitting the game through your door. Make sure you check for this unless you have plenty of room in your vehicle, and the game's destination has a large enough entranceway. If you disconnect the panel, be sure to mark the connectors for easy reassembly.
*Many games are conversions. A conversion came from the factory as one game, and was later converted into another game by an operator. If you are interested in originals only, make sure you check if the game is a conversion. For example, a Mortal Kombat may have been created from a Centipede cabinet (oh, the pain!). Some games look like nothing more than a combination of spare parts. Go to the KLOV site (see below) for info on video games and pics of originals. Also be aware that if a game is a conversion, it may be a different size than you first thought. So don't forget to measure it.
*For pinball machines, make sure you check if the back of the machine folds down or disconnects (not all do, or are troublesome to disconnect). Otherwise, you may have a tough time fitting the machine in your vehicle (if the back doesn't come down, it may not even fit into a full-sized van). On most pinballs, the legs can be removed for easier transport. Bring tools to undo any bolts (wrench, screwdrivers, etc.)
*Check the condition of the plastics on pinball machine playfields, especially the ramps. Broken parts can be very expensive to replace. If the game has an LED dot matrix display, be sure to check this as these are very expensive as well.
*For dart machines, power up the machine and start a game. Hit dartboard segments to see if they register. Some may be dead, or the whole dartboard may be dead. Some don't play cricket (a very popular dart game), so check this if you want it.
*For jukeboxes, check if it plays records (45s) or CDs. Check if the 45s or CDs are included. Often, boxes of records or CDs are auctioned separately. Since 45s are no longer made, the jukeboxes that play them tend to be cheaper, but the 45s themselves tend to be more expensive and tougher to find.

====The Auction Begins====
Usually they will make a few announcements that the auction is about to begin. If you have not registered, DO IT NOW. You do not want to be standing in line and watch all those games slip away.

The bidding usually goes like this: The auctioneer will offer a starting price or an "opening bid". If nobody accepts this bid, he
will lower the opening bid until someone accepts his offer. Once the offer is accepted, the auctioneer will ask for the next incremental bid. The bid increments vary depending on the average cost of the items. For most games, the increments are usually $25, and may be $12.50 when things get heated. Listen to the auctioneer at the start of the auction. You'll look like a fool if you bid $301 when the price is currently $300. The price will go up and up if people keep bidding. Once the bidding has plateued and one person has accepted a bid that no one else will chalenge, the auctioneer will close out the battle by saying "going... going.... SOLD", (or "Gone"). At this point no more bids will be taken (no mater how much you beg). The last person to make a bid (i.e. the one willing to pay the most for the item in question) "wins" the bid and gets the item. They will ask you for your buyer number. They record your number and give it to the cashier. There is no backing out at this point. If you do try to back out, they will make an announcement, everyone will look at you and groan, and depending on the reason for the backout, the may take your number. Bidding then proceeds to the next item and the cycle repeats.

If you realize that you were bidding on the wrong game (it happens) tell the auctioneer immediatly. You do not want to get stuck with the cruddy conversion of solitare, when you thought you were bidding on the mint Tron right next to it.

Someone often works ahead of the auctioneer to power up the games, and they sometimes get non-working games running again. If a game does not power up, the auction company may get it working during the auction. This could be a good thing (if you wanted a working game), or a bad thing (if you were hoping to get the game cheap).

LISTEN CAREFULLY TO THE AUCTIONEER DURING THE COURSE OF THE AUCTION

*Listen for the condition of the game as described by the auctioneer. This is especially useful if you missed it during the preview period, or missed the preview period entirely. I've seen a lady bid high for a Ms. Pac-Man, but she never heard the auctioneer say that it has no monitor or game board, and she couldn't see it due to the crowd of people.

*The auctioneer may set up some bidding rules on particular items. Observe the auction numbers on items. If there is a single number for a group of items, they will most likely be auctioned for one bid. Often when there are more than one of a particular item in similar condition, the auctioneer will have people bid on the items, but give the winning bidder a CHOICE of the one or more of the items, EACH at the cost of the winning bid. Be careful. I've seen people think they are getting all of the items for the winning price, and they bid too high.

*One thing to accept with a grain of salt (i.e. don't believe), is when an auctioneer says that a game is rare. The word "rare" is so often misused, it's become meaningless. Yes, some items they say are rare are truly rare, but most often not. Just use your own judgement and guidelines.

*If you stop bidding because the bid price gets too high for you, hoping to get the next one at a lower cost, you may lose any chance of getting any of the items if the winner grabs all of the items. I've seen operators win a bid, and then take every one of the items. If you really want one of the items, you may have to be the high bidder the first time; and if you don't take them all, the next bidder may get the items for a lot less. It's a gamble.

:Example: if there are 4 boxes of CDs, and the winning bid is $50, the winner may pick one of the boxes for the $50, or choose any 2 for a total of $100, or all for $200.

*NOTE: Many times the owner of an item will bid on his/her own item in an attempt to reach a higher price. Sometimes the owner will buy back their own items. This is cleverly named, a "buyback". After a while you can learn to spot these people, and if you notice that they are the only ones bidding against you, don't get caught up in "auction fever" and end up spending more than you really wanted to. Buyer beware.

During the auction, the auctioneer and the mass of people will move from game to game. With a hugh crowd, this gets uncomfortable and tiring. If you are interested in a particular game, you may want to move ahead of the crowd and stand near the game so you're
close up when it's auctioned and you can hear what the auctioneer is saying. The quality of their PA systems is often poor, and the
large rooms have a lot of echo. Bottom line, it is hard to hear a lot of the time.

Whatever isn't chosen is auctioned again.
Games are sold "as is". Period!

Please be courteous to winning bidders. Nothing makes the moment more awkward than a sore looser making his unhappiness known. Auctions are meant to be fun, not confrontational. Also...Do not play with the games that already have been won. (Unless you won it).

====After the Auction====
; How do I pay? :It's cheaper to pay cash. Again, there is sometimes a fee for paying with credit card. Usually it is about 5%. As with the auctioneer's take, this is NOT included in the "sold" price. Cash is best, so bring lots of it!

;I won and wanna go home. :After winning an item, you can pay for it and haul it away at any time during the auction. The most you will have to wait is for the auctioneers to get the selling information input into their computer systems. So, maybe give them at least a half-hour before you wait in line to pay.

;How long do I have to get my stuff out of there?
:Purchased items have to be out of the building by a certain time. Make sure you ask for this time. When bidding, be sure to keep this in mind so that you give yourself enough time to get your items out. There may be only one large exit, and other people's vehicles may be pulled up to it, meaning that you have to wait your turn to get out. Don't be caught short on time.

==Getting the Games Home==
;How do I get my games home?
:Besides money, the most important (and often neglected) item to bring to the auction is proper transportation for hauling your purchased items. Make sure you have a vehicle which can handle the items you are planning on buying. Always try to account for more room than you think you really need; not only for a safety margin, but also for those unexpected deals that pop up. Be sure to bring a tape measure and make sure you measure your vehicle's dimensions. You don't want to purchase a game only to find out later that it won't fit in your vehicle. Games usually have to be out of the place by a certain time the same day, and then you'll be stuck. Be sure to check out every game you are interested in purchasing during the preview period (see below for more info on preview periods). Try to attend with at least one other person so that they can help you move your purchased items. The items may be big and difficult for one person to move. Bring a dolly, and make sure it's strong enough to handle the weight of the machines.

:BTW, If you are renting a vehicle (Uhaul, Ryder, etc.), be sure to check out cost and conditions for milage, out-of-state transport, one-way use, and those sorts of things.

;Can the auction company deliver my games to my home?
:At many auctions, some operators will offer to transport games in the general vicinity of the auction for a fee. The auction company often makes an announcement before the start of the auction to notify people of anyone offering this service. If you decide to go this route, be sure to get all details ahead of time (cost, insurance, what if they break an item, etc.). The auction company has no part to play in this; they just announce the names of those offering this service. Use at your own risk.

:Note about Movers at the Auction... I have had a bad experience with the delivery people not really taking care with the items being transported. In fact, we hired them to deliver a garage full of games. They grabbed all the wrong places, jerked, thumped and whacked, the machines in every way they do not want to be. When they put the machines on the back gate of the truck, they dropped the gate so hard I swore pieces should have fallen off. When they were moving our Lethal Inforcers in the garage, the guy did not want to get the machine back on the dolly, so he rotated the cab on a corner and broke off the corner protector and about 3 inches of the corner. Not even an "sorry". Lastly, not all the pieces of the air hockey table we bought, showed up. They said that they would go back and look for the parts then bring them back, But we never saw them again. - MYX

;Removal of your purchased games
:Bring items to secure any games in your vehicle (rope, tie downs, etc.). If your vehicle is uncovered, bring enough tarps to protect your games from the weather. Make sure the items are loaded and secured so that they will not move at all during transport. Otherwise they will get banged up or broken when you accelerate and brake the vehicle.

:SAFETY This stuff is heavy and they are generally awkwardly weighted. You do not want to hurt your self or others because the game movement gets out of control. If you feel that you can not get the game moved by your self, GET HELP. Blowing out your back is not a good exchange for having a game at your home. Use your brain and do not do anything stupid. If you are stupid, use someone elses brain.

;Videogames :Videogames are top-heavy and tip easily. They are also sometimes (actually most of the time) very heavy. A hand truck is a great thing to use. Protect your game though. Place a packing blanket around your game. Ise a ratchet strap to strap the game to the hand truck. Then move the game. If you are moving one with a flat dolly, be sure to keep it level unless you have someone holding it upright. Stressing the point again: VIDEOGAMES TIP EASILY! Getting it into your vehicle is another place you really need to watch what you are doing. You do not want to scratch or break you new toy. When loading videogames and pinball machines on an uncovered vehicle, be sure to not face the front of the machines forward. The pressure of the wind when moving at highway speeds may break the glass.

;Pinball Machines
:Pinball machines are difficult to move. You most likely will not be able to use a dolly with them. If you're lucky, you may be able to borrow a pinball machine mover; otherwise, you'll end up carrying it to your vehicle, and they are HEAVY! When transporting a pinball machine, it's probably best to not remove the backglass (the glass with the artwork which faces you and has the scores) or topglass (the glass covering the playfield). It's too easy to drop them. If you do remove, avoid placing them flat on a hard surface; stand them up. If they do break, they usually shatter into a million pieces. Backglasses can be extremely difficult to replace as parts are hard to find, no longer being made, or are repro which are also expensive. If the back of the machine folds down onto the body of the pinball machine, place cardboard or a blanket within the fold to keep the parts from touching, and to cushion them.

;Dart Machines
:Most dart machines can be separated into two pieces (top and bottom). Check for this. If you end up disassembling a dart machine, be very careful when doing this as the top can easily tip off and crash to the floor. Also note all connections so it will be easier to reconnect later.
 
----
 
Most arcade auctions are run by US Amusements or Super Auctions. Their web sites are: 
http://www.usamusements.com 
http://www.superauctions.com 

==Quick List for the Auction==
Here is a list of things that would be very helpfull for your arcade experience. This is not a complete list, nor do you necessarily need everything on this list. It is just to quickly get you up and running. 
# Money (duh!)
# Proper transportation (You want to get your game home)
# Toll money
# Driving directions to auction location (Trust me! Use Map Quest or MSN MapPoint)
# Road map (So when MapPoint fails you can find your way back)
# Flashlight
# Tools (phillips & spade screwdrivers, socket set, pliers, etc.)
# Knife
# Tape measure
# Long (e.g. 100') extension cord
# Multi-tap or powerstrip
# Calculator (hmmm, $125 + 10% + 3% + 8%...) Or use your tip calculator on your cell phone.
# Pen
# Paper
# Clipboard
# List of games indicating which are JAMMA
# Fine point permanent marker (to mark items during disassembly)
# Tarps
# Moving blankets
# Duct tape
# Long rope
# Tie downs/Bungee cords
# Dolly and straps
# Cellulin wrap
# Walkie-talkies and extra batteries (to keep in touch with others if it's a big place, or if traveling in multiple vehicles)
# Cell Phone
# Camera
# Portable chair (often there isn't anywhere to sit)
# Handi-wipes (bathrooms don't always have soap)
# Cooler with Lunch / Sodas ("pop" for you northerners) / water

Also I recommend putting your name on everything. you take as there are a LOT of people with similar stuff. 

==Actual Auction Prices==
It is sometimes nice to see ahead of time, how much to expect to pay for their favorite game. Below are from auctions that the BYOAC community have been to and have recorded the prices.
* [[Atlanta 02-25-06 | Atlanta 02-25-06]]

For your benefit and the benefit of other collectors out there, it's very helpful to take pictures and keep track of prices and
then post this information on the here. Digital cameras and cell phone cameras are especially useful for this. If you meet other collectors at the auction, divide up the task of writing down the prices as it can be quite taxing to do this the whole day. Note: some companies do not allow you to take pictures. Apparently there was some trouble some time back with one attender taking pictures of another attenders daughter.

Arcade Auctions 1

2006-07-16T14:11:01Z

MYX: /* Getting the Games Home */

==Arcade Auctions: Useful Information==
-----------------------------------
Original text by: Mario D'Alessio (Written - April 27, 2001) 
Reformatted, updated, and overly dramatized with permission by: MYX July 2006 

NOTE: The information presented here was gathered from attending
arcade auctions in the Chicago, Indianapolis, and Atlanta areas. These
auctions were run by US Amusements and Super Auctions. This info
may not apply to auctions at other locations or those run by other
auction companies.

;What is at an Arcade Auction?
:At most arcade auctions, you'll find more than just video games and pinball machines. You can find all kinds of redemption equipment, money-making items such as kiddie rides, claw machines, etc., coin-operated pool tables, dart machines, air hockey games, jukebox machines, slot machines (see below) popcorn makers, soda machines, parts (locks, marquees, circuit boards, controllers, buttons, etc.), and anything else sellers want to sell. Items I have seen auctioned include slot racers and 12' racing tracks, condom machines, boom boxes, golf clubs, and pay telephones. The items you'll see the most of are video games, pinball machines, and jukeboxes. 

:In some states, slot machines can be auctioned. You will need to check your state's laws to find out if they can be purchased. In Illinois, slot machines have been auctioned, but these were japanese machines in which the player must hit a button for each slot wheel to stop them. As such, the machines are a game of skill rather than chance and are therefore not illegal. However, in many states it is illegal to transport ANY type of slot machine. Do your homework or buy at your own risk.

;What do the games cost?
:You will usually find a mix of older games and newer games. Prices vary greatly. If you want to get a general idea of prices, see the links listed at the botom of this page for lists of recient auctions and prices. However, the chances that they will be the same at the next auction are minimal. I've seen two machines (same game, similar condition) differ by over $100 at the same auction. Anything goes. In general, older games cost less except for the classics which are highly desirable. Videogames with 25" monitors usually tend to be higher priced. Large sit-down games such as racing games tend to be very high priced (relative to other items), but may still be a bargain. Also, as the auction progresses, the crowd thins out and the auctioneer gets tired, resulting is shorter bid cycles and lower prices. But again, anything goes. At the bottom of this page there are [[Arcade_Auctions_1#Actual Auction Prices |listings of previous]] auctions and the prices the games went for.

:The auction company gets a percentage of the selling price, and this is not included in the "sold" price. So, if the auctioneer gets 13% (the usuall), and you win the bid at $100, you'll really have to pay $113 for the item. This is known as "Buyers Premium". Though kind of a drag, the auction company does need to eat.

:Additionally, Uncle Sam gets his cut too. Know your State or local sales tax rate.

:It is very important to remember these additional charges when you are bidding. It would be very sad if you won a game but could not pay for it because you did not figure in the BP and tax. Then the Auctioneer makes an announcement and the game is sold again. So sad. I use the tip calculator on my cell phone to figure out what the current cost actually is. I put 21% as the tip ammount (13%BP and 7 % tax). Then I just punch in the numbers and do not have to wonder in the heat of battle if my math is right.
:Note: They may charge you a small percentage for using a credit card. It adds up quick.

;Can I sell stuff?
:Anyone can bring items to the auction to sell. If you have items you wish to auction, contact the auction company for details. Again there is a 13% fee for selling your game. So, if the item sells for $100, you get to take home $87. Sometimes there is a fee break if you bring several items. Check with the auction company for more details about selling.

==A Day In the Life==
;Preperation :The morning of the auction, you really do not want to have anything to worry about except for getting to the auction and having a good time. So, a little preperation can help you have a great experience. The auction day is a long and somewhat tireing experience. So, plan to be there for a while (8ish in the am to start, and can go all the way up to 6:30 pm). There is a lot to do, see, and play. If you are planning to spend the day at the auction, it is a good idea to bring a cooler of drinks and enough food for 2 meals. They may not have food there, and If you have brought no food, you'll have to leave to get something and possibly miss an item you want. If you are waiting to bid on a certain machine, it could take hours for the auctioneer to reach it. If food is sold, the quality of the food is usually not very good and quite frankly a little scary (Really... how old is the nacho cheese in that warmer).
:Think ahead, Do stuff the night before rather than the morning of. A low stress level makes for a much nicer morning. If you have a long drive to get there, get gas the night before. Get some food for in the car. Gather you [[Arcade_Auctions_1#Quick List for the Auction |auction gear]], and put it IN THE CAR.
:Finally, and I am not trying to make you feel like a little kid, but go to bed early. Nothing worse than being really tired around that much tension and noise.

;Wake up :You have been very excited about the auction. you have set your alarm so you can be out of bed and to the auction house before the doors open. But, in your infinite wisdom, thought you set your alarm, you did not turn it on. You wake up feeling oddly rested. You glance over at the clock and think...Hmmm 7:30. It has been a long time since I have slept that late. Wonder what I will do toda...CRAP!!! THE AUCTION!!! (Adrenalin surge) You jump out of bed, step on the dog, the dog squeeks and in an attempt to not wake up the rest of the house you change your balance causing you to whack your toe on the dresser (hard). Trying really hard not to scream, you try make your way to the bathroom. You like it dark in your room when you sleep, I mean reall, really dark, so you do not see the laundry basket in front of you causing you to fall. Durring the fall you manage to hit your chin on the same dresser that you stubbed your toe on. The day is not starting so well. The point...don't forget to turn on your alarm. Oh, not that this ever happened to me or anything...Just a warning is all. </dramma>

;The Drive :You have made it out of the house. You got gas last night. You get in your car and head towards the auction. You get there a few minutes before 8 am. This is great as you get to go in soon (ahhh the anticipation). So you make small talk with the others who also didn't stub their toe that morning either. These folks, though similar in heart, are the competition. The folks that will be driving your game price up. So now is the time to schmooz and try to get a feel for what you are up against. "So what are YOU looking for?" you might ask. They tell you 'Michael Jackson Thriller, it's a jamma you know...". Relieved, you can call them friend as it is not the game that you came for. Actually all sillyness asside, I have met some great people I still keep in touch with at these auctions. All I can say is it is a wonderful gathering of fellow nerds.

;The Doors finally open :(Not on time by the way). You know that music at the begining of the Simpsons... You know, You see clouds then kind of angelic voices (Ahhhhh)...Well that should be the sound that happens when the doors of the auction. Time to go in an see what they have. My first auction I walked in and was very much saddened to see this little row of about 15 games with a few games behind them. Sure there was a Defender sitting there (which I eventually bought). But all in all there was just so few. Then I turned my head the other direction and realized that all I had just been looking at, were the late arrivals. There were games as far as the eye could see. Now, please do not go in expecting to see pristine machines in their glory days. Most of these games are old and have seen some abuse in their day. But instead go in looking for possibilities. The BYOAC comunity is based on the idea: BUILD, RESTORE, PLAY. So see these cabs as the a playground of toys to fix up. Now, Time to go and play.

;Register :At some point early in the prewiew period you should register to bid. Some companies like Super Auctions, will now let you register online. I'll say it again, make sure you do this as early as possible. The lines can get quite long and move very slowly. They will collect your home information and payment option. While you are registering, If you are unsure, ask them about the their payment options. Checks are genreally not accepted. It's either cash or credit card. You generally need to either put down a money deposit, or leave your driver's license with them. With some companies, once you have registered with them once, you do not need to leave your licence at your next auction as they have you on file. DO NOT forget to collect your licence at the end of the day. 

====The Preview Period====
There is a preview period before the start of the auction during which time you can power up the games and try them out. Most previews start at 8am and end when the auction opens. Most auctions are scheduled to start at 10am, but they almost always start late. Also, games are often still brought in during the preview period, so don't be too discouraged if there are not too many games when you arrive at 8am. Bring a very long extension cord to try out the games during the preview period. The places are usually very big, and outlets are often only located on the outer walls of the building. Bring a powerstrip or a multi-tap so that you can plug in multiple games or share an outlet with others (there are usually only a few outlets).

The preview period is where the fun really starts. It is a large room full of folks running around with their extension cords all looking for some little scrap of electricity to make their game turn on. You see a cluster of folks. Someone has found juice. You make your way through the huddle and find a wad of A/C splitters connected to other A/C splitters connected to powerstrips connected to other power strips, and all this is comming out of one outlet. You run your extension cord to your game. There is generally a 2 rows back to back, with a space of about 2 feet between the rows. so you make your way down the corridor of the butt sides of all the machines. This is a great place to get an idea of the condition of the machine. Often folks clean up the fronts but neglect the back ends. Just FYI. So, you get to your machine, you look on the floor and there is a scramble of plugs. so you sort out all the plugs and plug in the machine. You hear the screen zap to life so you know it came on. After a run around to the front side you realize you plugged in the machine next to the one you wanted. This is the way it goes. Finally you get your game to work. You get to play the game. Ghaw what fun. Playing the real thing, not some flash simulated web browser knock up, but the real thing. You mark down the lot number of the game and mark that it plays well. Then off to another game. Back to the plug dungeon. You plug in your next game. you coin it up and are just about to play when all the sudden all the power to about 60 games just stops. The room goes suddenly quiet. well for a second that is because the silence is usually followed by a universal...Hey man what the f...Heck happend. I find this funny. Watching people get upset when it is NEVER a good idea to plug that many things into 1 outlet. But the anger dissapates as soon as someone finds the breaker. It is a cycle that happens often throughout the morning.

Bring pen and paper to jot notes. There may be a number of a particular game and you want to know which worked and which didn't. All items being auctioned are numbered, which helps in tracking the items. the numbered item(s) are called "Lots". Sometimes the auctioneer will print a list of all items, so find out if one's available and get a copy. This is also useful for tracking selling prices. Just be aware that because pieces are still being brought in that morning, the list may not be complete. The numbers do not indicate the order by which things are auctioned.

When the preview period ends, sometimes you are asked not to power up or open anything (But if not...GAME ON!!!)

BTW, A game is considered working "all the way" if it powers up, and video games show a picture (even a horrible picture, as most bad
pictures can be corrected with monitor adjustments or cheap fixes).

====Things to look for when you preview a game====
*Check out the cosmetic condition of the item.
*Check the operational condition: buttons and controls work, monitor and picture quality, LED lights on pinball scores, etc.
*Open the coin doors (if not locked) and take a good look inside. A flashlight is useful for looking around. Check for existance of all necessary parts, manuals, coins, dead mice, water damage, etc.
*Power up the machine. For video games, look for toggle switches on top, in back, or on the lower sides of the machines. For pinball games, look underneath or on top of the back portion of the game, or on the lower right side for some older machines. Rarely are power switches inside the coin doors.
*If a game powers up, play the game. To do this, you'll have to coin up (credit) the machine. If the coin doors are not locked,look inside for a credit switch. Otherwise, you can trigger a credit by triggering the coin detecting mechanism. It's difficult to explain here in text, so if you don't know how to do this, ask around. Someone should be able to help. You'll also find out if the coin mechanisms work at all. If you care about the coin mechs, try triggering them by inserting a quarter (which you'll be able to take back if the coin doors are open).
*You are usually asked not to open the backs of video games. Even if you are not asked, it's best to avoid doing this! It's too easy for the back panel to fall and break the neck of the monitor. With many people moving around the games, mistakes will happen. Also, you may be mistaken for sabotaging the machine and be kicked out of the auction (it's happened). Once you purchase a game, then you can do whatever you want with it.
*Many 3+ player videogames have oversized control panels which are wider than the body of the game. These can usually be removed for easier transport, and for fitting the game through your door. Make sure you check for this unless you have plenty of room in your vehicle, and the game's destination has a large enough entranceway. If you disconnect the panel, be sure to mark the connectors for easy reassembly.
*Many games are conversions. A conversion came from the factory as one game, and was later converted into another game by an operator. If you are interested in originals only, make sure you check if the game is a conversion. For example, a Mortal Kombat may have been created from a Centipede cabinet (oh, the pain!). Some games look like nothing more than a combination of spare parts. Go to the KLOV site (see below) for info on video games and pics of originals. Also be aware that if a game is a conversion, it may be a different size than you first thought. So don't forget to measure it.
*For pinball machines, make sure you check if the back of the machine folds down or disconnects (not all do, or are troublesome to disconnect). Otherwise, you may have a tough time fitting the machine in your vehicle (if the back doesn't come down, it may not even fit into a full-sized van). On most pinballs, the legs can be removed for easier transport. Bring tools to undo any bolts (wrench, screwdrivers, etc.)
*Check the condition of the plastics on pinball machine playfields, especially the ramps. Broken parts can be very expensive to replace. If the game has an LED dot matrix display, be sure to check this as these are very expensive as well.
*For dart machines, power up the machine and start a game. Hit dartboard segments to see if they register. Some may be dead, or the whole dartboard may be dead. Some don't play cricket (a very popular dart game), so check this if you want it.
*For jukeboxes, check if it plays records (45s) or CDs. Check if the 45s or CDs are included. Often, boxes of records or CDs are auctioned separately. Since 45s are no longer made, the jukeboxes that play them tend to be cheaper, but the 45s themselves tend to be more expensive and tougher to find.

====The Auction Begins====
Usually they will make a few announcements that the auction is about to begin. If you have not registered, DO IT NOW. You do not want to be standing in line and watch all those games slip away.

The bidding usually goes like this: The auctioneer will offer a starting price or an "opening bid". If nobody accepts this bid, he
will lower the opening bid until someone accepts his offer. Once the offer is accepted, the auctioneer will ask for the next incremental bid. The bid increments vary depending on the average cost of the items. For most games, the increments are usually $25, and may be $12.50 when things get heated. Listen to the auctioneer at the start of the auction. You'll look like a fool if you bid $301 when the price is currently $300. The price will go up and up if people keep bidding. Once the bidding has plateued and one person has accepted a bid that no one else will chalenge, the auctioneer will close out the battle by saying "going... going.... SOLD", (or "Gone"). At this point no more bids will be taken (no mater how much you beg). The last person to make a bid (i.e. the one willing to pay the most for the item in question) "wins" the bid and gets the item. They will ask you for your buyer number. They record your number and give it to the cashier. There is no backing out at this point. If you do try to back out, they will make an announcement, everyone will look at you and groan, and depending on the reason for the backout, the may take your number. Bidding then proceeds to the next item and the cycle repeats.

If you realize that you were bidding on the wrong game (it happens) tell the auctioneer immediatly. You do not want to get stuck with the cruddy conversion of solitare, when you thought you were bidding on the mint Tron right next to it.

Someone often works ahead of the auctioneer to power up the games, and they sometimes get non-working games running again. If a game does not power up, the auction company may get it working during the auction. This could be a good thing (if you wanted a working game), or a bad thing (if you were hoping to get the game cheap).

LISTEN CAREFULLY TO THE AUCTIONEER DURING THE COURSE OF THE AUCTION

*Listen for the condition of the game as described by the auctioneer. This is especially useful if you missed it during the preview period, or missed the preview period entirely. I've seen a lady bid high for a Ms. Pac-Man, but she never heard the auctioneer say that it has no monitor or game board, and she couldn't see it due to the crowd of people.

*The auctioneer may set up some bidding rules on particular items. Observe the auction numbers on items. If there is a single number for a group of items, they will most likely be auctioned for one bid. Often when there are more than one of a particular item in similar condition, the auctioneer will have people bid on the items, but give the winning bidder a CHOICE of the one or more of the items, EACH at the cost of the winning bid. Be careful. I've seen people think they are getting all of the items for the winning price, and they bid too high.

*One thing to accept with a grain of salt (i.e. don't believe), is when an auctioneer says that a game is rare. The word "rare" is so often misused, it's become meaningless. Yes, some items they say are rare are truly rare, but most often not. Just use your own judgement and guidelines.

*If you stop bidding because the bid price gets too high for you, hoping to get the next one at a lower cost, you may lose any chance of getting any of the items if the winner grabs all of the items. I've seen operators win a bid, and then take every one of the items. If you really want one of the items, you may have to be the high bidder the first time; and if you don't take them all, the next bidder may get the items for a lot less. It's a gamble.

:Example: if there are 4 boxes of CDs, and the winning bid is $50, the winner may pick one of the boxes for the $50, or choose any 2 for a total of $100, or all for $200.

*NOTE: Many times the owner of an item will bid on his/her own item in an attempt to reach a higher price. Sometimes the owner will buy back their own items. This is cleverly named, a "buyback". After a while you can learn to spot these people, and if you notice that they are the only ones bidding against you, don't get caught up in "auction fever" and end up spending more than you really wanted to. Buyer beware.

During the auction, the auctioneer and the mass of people will move from game to game. With a hugh crowd, this gets uncomfortable and tiring. If you are interested in a particular game, you may want to move ahead of the crowd and stand near the game so you're
close up when it's auctioned and you can hear what the auctioneer is saying. The quality of their PA systems is often poor, and the
large rooms have a lot of echo. Bottom line, it is hard to hear a lot of the time.

Whatever isn't chosen is auctioned again.
Games are sold "as is". Period!

Please be courteous to winning bidders. Nothing makes the moment more awkward than a sore looser making his unhappiness known. Auctions are meant to be fun, not confrontational. Also...Do not play with the games that already have been won. (Unless you won it).

====After the Auction====
; How do I pay? :It's cheaper to pay cash. Again, there is sometimes a fee for paying with credit card. Usually it is about 5%. As with the auctioneer's take, this is NOT included in the "sold" price. Cash is best, so bring lots of it!

;I won and wanna go home. :After winning an item, you can pay for it and haul it away at any time during the auction. The most you will have to wait is for the auctioneers to get the selling information input into their computer systems. So, maybe give them at least a half-hour before you wait in line to pay.

;How long do I have to get my stuff out of there?
:Purchased items have to be out of the building by a certain time. Make sure you ask for this time. When bidding, be sure to keep this in mind so that you give yourself enough time to get your items out. There may be only one large exit, and other people's vehicles may be pulled up to it, meaning that you have to wait your turn to get out. Don't be caught short on time.

==Getting the Games Home==
;How do I get my games home?
:Besides money, the most important (and often neglected) item to bring to the auction is proper transportation for hauling your purchased items. Make sure you have a vehicle which can handle the items you are planning on buying. Always try to account for more room than you think you really need; not only for a safety margin, but also for those unexpected deals that pop up. Be sure to bring a tape measure and make sure you measure your vehicle's dimensions. You don't want to purchase a game only to find out later that it won't fit in your vehicle. Games usually have to be out of the place by a certain time the same day, and then you'll be stuck. Be sure to check out every game you are interested in purchasing during the preview period (see below for more info on preview periods). Try to attend with at least one other person so that they can help you move your purchased items. The items may be big and difficult for one person to move. Bring a dolly, and make sure it's strong enough to handle the weight of the machines.

:BTW, If you are renting a vehicle (Uhaul, Ryder, etc.), be sure to check out cost and conditions for milage, out-of-state transport, one-way use, and those sorts of things.

;Can the auction company deliver my games to my home?
:At many auctions, some operators will offer to transport games in the general vicinity of the auction for a fee. The auction company often makes an announcement before the start of the auction to notify people of anyone offering this service. If you decide to go this route, be sure to get all details ahead of time (cost, insurance, what if they break an item, etc.). The auction company has no part to play in this; they just announce the names of those offering this service. Use at your own risk.

:Note about Movers at the Auction... I have had a bad experience with the delivery people not really taking care with the items being transported. In fact, we hired them to deliver a garage full of games. They grabbed all the wrong places, jerked, thumped and whacked, the machines in every way they do not want to be. When they put the machines on the back gate of the truck, they dropped the gate so hard I swore pieces should have fallen off. When they were moving our Lethal Inforcers in the garage, the guy did not want to get the machine back on the dolly, so he rotated the cab on a corner and broke off the corner protector and about 3 inches of the corner. Not even an "sorry". Lastly, not all the pieces of the air hockey table we bought, showed up. They said that they would go back and look for the parts then bring them back, But we never saw them again. - MYX

;Removal of your purchased games
:Bring items to secure any games in your vehicle (rope, tie downs, etc.). If your vehicle is uncovered, bring enough tarps to protect your games from the weather. Make sure the items are loaded and secured so that they will not move at all during transport. Otherwise they will get banged up or broken when you accelerate and brake the vehicle.

:SAFETY This stuff is heavy and they are generally awkwardly weighted. You do not want to hurt your self or others because the game movement gets out of control. If you feel that you can not get the game moved by your self, GET HELP. Blowing out your back is not a good exchange for having a game at your home. Use your brain and do not do anything stupid. If you are stupid, use someone elses brain.

;Videogames :Videogames are top-heavy and tip easily. They are also sometimes (actually most of the time) very heavy. A hand truck is a great thing to use. Protect your game though. Place a packing blanket around your game. Ise a ratchet strap to strap the game to the hand truck. Then move the game. If you are moving one with a flat dolly, be sure to keep it level unless you have someone holding it upright. Stressing the point again: VIDEOGAMES TIP EASILY! Getting it into your vehicle is another place you really need to watch what you are doing. You do not want to scratch or break you new toy. When loading videogames and pinball machines on an uncovered vehicle, be sure to not face the front of the machines forward. The pressure of the wind when moving at highway speeds may break the glass.

;Pinball Machines
:Pinball machines are difficult to move. You most likely will not be able to use a dolly with them. If you're lucky, you may be able to borrow a pinball machine mover; otherwise, you'll end up carrying it to your vehicle, and they are HEAVY! When transporting a pinball machine, it's probably best to not remove the backglass (the glass with the artwork which faces you and has the scores) or topglass (the glass covering the playfield). It's too easy to drop them. If you do remove, avoid placing them flat on a hard surface; stand them up. If they do break, they usually shatter into a million pieces. Backglasses can be extremely difficult to replace as parts are hard to find, no longer being made, or are repro which are also expensive. If the back of the machine folds down onto the body of the pinball machine, place cardboard or a blanket within the fold to keep the parts from touching, and to cushion them.

;Dart Machines
:Most dart machines can be separated into two pieces (top and bottom). Check for this. If you end up disassembling a dart machine, be very careful when doing this as the top can easily tip off and crash to the floor. Also note all connections so it will be easier to reconnect later.
 
----
 
Most arcade auctions are run by US Amusements or Super Auctions. Their web sites are: 
[http://www.usamusements.com]
[http://www.superauctions.com]

==Quick List for the Auction==
Here is a list of things that would be very helpfull for your arcade experience. This is not a complete list, nor do you necessarily need everything on this list. It is just to quickly get you up and running. 
# Money (duh!)
# Proper transportation (You want to get your game home)
# Toll money
# Driving directions to auction location (Trust me! Use Map Quest or MSN MapPoint)
# Road map (So when MapPoint fails you can find your way back)
# Flashlight
# Tools (phillips & spade screwdrivers, socket set, pliers, etc.)
# Knife
# Tape measure
# Long (e.g. 100') extension cord
# Multi-tap or powerstrip
# Calculator (hmmm, $125 + 10% + 3% + 8%...) Or use your tip calculator on your cell phone.
# Pen
# Paper
# Clipboard
# List of games indicating which are JAMMA
# Fine point permanent marker (to mark items during disassembly)
# Tarps
# Moving blankets
# Duct tape
# Long rope
# Tie downs/Bungee cords
# Dolly and straps
# Cellulin wrap
# Walkie-talkies and extra batteries (to keep in touch with others if it's a big place, or if traveling in multiple vehicles)
# Cell Phone
# Camera
# Portable chair (often there isn't anywhere to sit)
# Handi-wipes (bathrooms don't always have soap)
# Cooler with Lunch / Sodas ("pop" for you northerners) / water

Also I recommend putting your name on everything. you take as there are a LOT of people with similar stuff. 

==Actual Auction Prices==
It is sometimes nice to see ahead of time, how much to expect to pay for their favorite game. Below are from auctions that the BYOAC community have been to and have recorded the prices.
* [[Atlanta 02-25-06 | Atlanta 02-25-06]]

For your benefit and the benefit of other collectors out there, it's very helpful to take pictures and keep track of prices and
then post this information on the here. Digital cameras and cell phone cameras are especially useful for this. If you meet other collectors at the auction, divide up the task of writing down the prices as it can be quite taxing to do this the whole day. Note: some companies do not allow you to take pictures. Apparently there was some trouble some time back with one attender taking pictures of another attenders daughter.