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	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Spinners_and_Dials&amp;diff=3584</id>
		<title>Spinners and Dials</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Spinners_and_Dials&amp;diff=3584"/>
		<updated>2006-04-26T20:34:17Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: /* FAQs */ added games that can be used with a spinner&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Cleanup}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=What is a Spinner?=&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You might remember the spinner from games like Tempest and Arkanoid.  The player turns a knob to move the on-screen character.  But what's going on behind the scenes; what's that knob attached to?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Underneath the control panel, the shaft comes down from the knob above.  Mounted on the shaft, is an optical encoder wheel- a flat disk with notches cut around the outside edge.  These notches pass though a set of infra-red optics, that detect the notches as they spin by.  There are two sets of optics, spaced such that they see the notches spin by just a little bit out of sync.  The combined signal from both of these optics tells the game which direction the disk is turning, and how fast.  This is also how a trackball works, as well as a ball-type PC mouse.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are buying or building a working spinner for your cabinet, you will need the Spinner (the mechanical part,) the optics(the part that watches the spinning,) and the optical encoder (the part that sends info to the computer.) If a manufacturer advertises &amp;quot;USB Connectivity&amp;quot; that generally means that it is an all in one solution, and no additional parts are required. Otherwise, you'll find that optics are generally included, but an encoder is not. In the rare occurence that your spinner does not have optics included, they can be built with parts from your local electronic store, or you can build them based off of a [[Optical_Encoders#Mouse_Hack|mouse hack.]] If the unit does not ship with an optical encoder, you can purchase one from an aftermarket seller. You can find out more about [[Optical_Encoders|optical encoders here.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Spinner Varieties=&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Tempest- Fast spinning lightweight spinner, which is very popular with arcade enthusiassts. It has 72 teeth on the encoder wheel, with nylon upper and lower bearings on the shaft.  This was the model for the Oscar Vortex aftermarket spinner.&lt;br /&gt;
#Arkanoid- The &amp;quot;geared&amp;quot; spinner.  Rather than mounting the encoder wheel directly to the shaft, the Arkanoid spinner used two sets of gears between the knob and the encoder wheel, to make the spinner extremely sensitive.  While the encoder wheel only has 24 notches, the gearing causes 486 notches to pass through the optics for every turn of the knob!  Due to the lightweight and friction from the gearing, the Arkanoid spinner stops the instant you take your hand off the knob. &lt;br /&gt;
#Paddle- '''ADD CONTENT HERE'''&lt;br /&gt;
#Discs of Tron ''Push/Pull''- This spinner used a giant 128-notch encoder wheel with a push / pull switch feature built into the spindle shaft. When the player pulled up or down on the spinner, a leafswitch was activated.  This was used to control the high / low aim of the disc in later levels of the game. Zwackery also used a Push/Pull spinner, and Forgotten Worlds used a push only (no pull) spinner. Oscar Controls marketed a Push/Pull spinner with a slightly different design, and a smaller 72 notch encoder wheel, but it is no longer available for purchase. The Oscar V2 had a Push option, and a Pull kit was rumored to be in the works before Oscar Controls closed down.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Spinner Brands=&lt;br /&gt;
#[http://oscarcontrols.com/ Oscar Controls]- Was a popular manufacturer of spinners for the hobbyist market until recently. Several models were produced over the years, including the Model One, Pro, Vortex, Push/Pull, and V2. These spinners did not enclude an encoder and required connection to an [[Optical_Encoders#Opti-PAC|Opti-Pac]] or to a [[Optical_Encoders#Mouse_Hack|mouse hack]]. &lt;br /&gt;
#[http://www.slikstik.com/spinfeat.htm SlikStik]- The Tornado is billed as the &amp;quot;longest spinning&amp;quot; spinner on the market, the Tornado is currently the spinner that's been on the market the longest. With an extra-small footprint, and dual-bearing design, the Tornado is very well made.  Several knob options are also available.  The Tornado comes with it's own USB or PS/2 interface.  Plans to sell the Tornado with a plain-jane optic card have also been announced.&lt;br /&gt;
#[http://GroovyGameGear.com GroovyGameGear]- The TurboTwist is new to the market. Like the SlikStik Tornado, the TurboTwist also has a small footprint and a dual-bearing design.  The TurboTwist has an extra-high resolution encoder wheel, and comes with it's own USB or PS/2 Opti-Wiz interface.  The interface can be configured to put the spinner on the X, Y, or Z mouse axis, and will control other optic devices on the remaining two axes, such as a trackball, or additional spinners/steering wheels/optical rotary joysticks.  A plain-jane optic card version has also been announced.&lt;br /&gt;
#[http://ArcadeGames4U.com ArcadeGames4U]- The cyclone is also new to the market. It has a dual-bearing design, with a lower resolution encoder wheel.  The Cyclone ships with an optic card, but no interface.  &lt;br /&gt;
#Build Your Own!- Many users have build their own spinners from whatever parts they had available- Hard drive bearings, skateboard bearings, whatever.  Use your imagination, or use this guide created by Nathan Strum. [http://arcadecontrols.com/files/Miscellaneous/spinner.pdf Download the PDF guide here] for building your own. '''ADD LINK TO VARIOUS DIY ARTICLES ON BYOAC MSG BOARD'''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=FAQs=&lt;br /&gt;
==Which games originally used a spinner==&lt;br /&gt;
The list below is non-definitive, but can be used as a guide to find the most common games that can use a spinner. &lt;br /&gt;
===Conventional spinner games===&lt;br /&gt;
*Arkanoid arkanoid&lt;br /&gt;
*Arkanoid - Revenge of Doh arknoid2&lt;br /&gt;
*Blasteroids (version 4)	blstroid&lt;br /&gt;
*Wolf Pack (prototype)	wolfpack&lt;br /&gt;
*Tempest (rev 3)	tempest&lt;br /&gt;
*Tron (set 1)	tron&lt;br /&gt;
*Mad Planets	mplanets&lt;br /&gt;
*720 Degrees (set 1)	720&lt;br /&gt;
*Aztarac	aztarac&lt;br /&gt;
*Forgotten Worlds (US)	forgottn&lt;br /&gt;
*Kozmik Kroozr	kroozr&lt;br /&gt;
*Crater Raider	crater&lt;br /&gt;
*Wheel Of Fortune	wfortune&lt;br /&gt;
*Victory	victory&lt;br /&gt;
*Omega Race	omegrace&lt;br /&gt;
*Cameltry (US)	cameltry&lt;br /&gt;
*Cosmic Chasm (set 1)	cchasm&lt;br /&gt;
*Dark Planet	darkplnt&lt;br /&gt;
*Vs. Hot Smash	hotsmash&lt;br /&gt;
*Boxing Bugs	boxingb&lt;br /&gt;
*Star Trek  startrek&lt;br /&gt;
===Push/pull spinner games===&lt;br /&gt;
*Discs of Tron (Upright)	dotron&lt;br /&gt;
*Zwackery	 zwackery&lt;br /&gt;
===Horizontal roller===&lt;br /&gt;
*Major Havoc (rev 3)	mhavoc&lt;br /&gt;
*Moonwar	moonwar&lt;br /&gt;
*Kick (upright)	kick&lt;br /&gt;
=== Vertical roller ===&lt;br /&gt;
*Drag Race	dragrace&lt;br /&gt;
=== 360° Steering Wheel===&lt;br /&gt;
*Super Sprint	ssprint&lt;br /&gt;
*APB - All Points Bulletin (set 1)	apb&lt;br /&gt;
*Pole Position	polepos&lt;br /&gt;
*Pole Position II	polepos2&lt;br /&gt;
*Road Blasters (set 1)	roadblst&lt;br /&gt;
*American Speedway (set 1)	amspdwy&lt;br /&gt;
*Bad Lands	badlands&lt;br /&gt;
*Demolition Derby	demoderb&lt;br /&gt;
*Danny Sullivan's Indy Heat	indyheat&lt;br /&gt;
*Speed Freak	speedfrk&lt;br /&gt;
*Ironman Stewart's Super Off-Road	offroad&lt;br /&gt;
*Ironman Stewart's Super Off-Road Track Pack	offroadt&lt;br /&gt;
*Turbo	turbo&lt;br /&gt;
*Konami GT	konamigt&lt;br /&gt;
*Buggy Challenge	buggychl&lt;br /&gt;
*Championship Sprint	csprint&lt;br /&gt;
*Fire Truck	firetrk&lt;br /&gt;
*Fire Truck	firetrk&lt;br /&gt;
*Grand Champion	grchamp&lt;br /&gt;
*Hot Rod (turbo 3 player)	hotrod&lt;br /&gt;
*Monte Carlo	montecar&lt;br /&gt;
*Stocker	stocker&lt;br /&gt;
*Super Speed Race	sspeedr&lt;br /&gt;
*Final Lap 2	finalap2&lt;br /&gt;
*Subs	subs&lt;br /&gt;
*Mille Miglia 2: Great 1000 Miles Rally (95/05/24)	gtmr2&lt;br /&gt;
*Over Drive	overdriv&lt;br /&gt;
*Redline Racer (2 players)	redlin2p&lt;br /&gt;
*Sprint 1	sprint1&lt;br /&gt;
===Horizontal paddle games===&lt;br /&gt;
*Boot Hill	boothill&lt;br /&gt;
*Clowns (rev. 2)	clowns&lt;br /&gt;
*Super Breakout	sbrkout&lt;br /&gt;
*Avalanche	avalnche&lt;br /&gt;
*Beam Invader	beaminv&lt;br /&gt;
*Gee Bee	geebee&lt;br /&gt;
*Warlords	warlords&lt;br /&gt;
*Field Goal	fgoal&lt;br /&gt;
*Blue Shark	blueshrk&lt;br /&gt;
*Circus	circus&lt;br /&gt;
*Sea Wolf	seawolf&lt;br /&gt;
*Sea Wolf II	seawolf2&lt;br /&gt;
===Vertical paddle games===&lt;br /&gt;
*Destroyer destroyr&lt;br /&gt;
*Lunar Lander (rev 2) llander&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Two Spinners on a control panel; is it worth it?==&lt;br /&gt;
The answer is an unequivocal ''maybe''. There are several factors to keep in mind when trying to determine whether you should buy and install 2 spinners on your control panel.&lt;br /&gt;
#Budget- Spinners are somewhat expensive. Buying 2 aftermarket spinners with optics will set you back about $80-$160. &lt;br /&gt;
#Software- Can your software support 2 mice at the same time. Make sure you have a version of mame that can support 2 spinners if they're both individual USB units. If you have them both plugged into an [[Optical_Encoders#Opti-PAC|Optipac]] this won't be a problem. &lt;br /&gt;
#Space- Depending on the model, spinners can take up a lot of room under the surface of a control panel. The Oscar Controls Push/Pull spinner was approximately 5.5x6&amp;quot; for instance. Also, the more spinners you have, the less room you may have for other features and joysticks. &lt;br /&gt;
#Games- Most importantly, do you like any games that use more than 1 spinner? Below is a (non-definitive) list of multi-spinner games &lt;br /&gt;
##Paddle Games&lt;br /&gt;
###Arkanoid Returns&lt;br /&gt;
###Off the Wall (Atari)&lt;br /&gt;
###Off the Wall (Bally Sente)&lt;br /&gt;
###Warlords (uses 4!)&lt;br /&gt;
###Pop'n Bounce&lt;br /&gt;
###Plump Pop&lt;br /&gt;
###VS Blok Breaker&lt;br /&gt;
##Flying&lt;br /&gt;
###Blasteroids&lt;br /&gt;
###Two Tigers&lt;br /&gt;
##Driving&lt;br /&gt;
###Super Off Road&lt;br /&gt;
### Super Sprint (uses 3!)&lt;br /&gt;
###Championship Super Sprint&lt;br /&gt;
###Bad Lands&lt;br /&gt;
###Ironman Ivan Stewart's Super Off-Road (uses 3!)&lt;br /&gt;
###Ironman Stewart's Super Off-Road Track Pack (uses 3!)&lt;br /&gt;
###Danny Sullivan's Indy Heat&lt;br /&gt;
## Other&lt;br /&gt;
###Atari 2 player games&lt;br /&gt;
###Puzzloop&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==If I can have only a spinner or a trackball... which should I choose==&lt;br /&gt;
'''insert pro/con arguments here'''&lt;br /&gt;
relevant links in msg board. delete links once the info has been added. &lt;br /&gt;
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=25477.0&lt;br /&gt;
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=37876.0&lt;br /&gt;
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=36036.0&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Televisions&amp;diff=3487</id>
		<title>Televisions</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Televisions&amp;diff=3487"/>
		<updated>2006-04-11T01:23:04Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: /* TV Hacks */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Televisions can be used in place of an arcade monitor.  While not as authentic, they offer reasonable video performance at a definite cost savings to the user. While TVs do not appear as authentic as actual arcade monitors, they may appear more authentic than the output from a computer monitor in many instances, while smaller Windows text boxes can still be read unlike the output from an arcade monitor. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Connection types=&lt;br /&gt;
When using a TV, make sure to match the outputs of your video card to the inputs of your television.  Several types of video are available when using a TV, each with varying strengths and weaknesses. The more common formats are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*  [[Video Output#Coaxial|Coaxial]]&lt;br /&gt;
*  [[Video Output#Composite Video (RCA)|Composite Video (RCA)]]&lt;br /&gt;
*  [[Video Output#S-Video|S-Video]]&lt;br /&gt;
*  [[Video Output#Component Video (YUV)|Component Video (YUV)]]&lt;br /&gt;
*  [[Video Output#SCART|SCART]] (Europe)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The type of connection you can use may depend on the connections your videocard can offer and the connections your television accepts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Things to consider when choosing a TV=&lt;br /&gt;
Some things to consider when choosing a TV for your cabinet:&lt;br /&gt;
*How big is the case? Do you want to leave the TV in its case or strip the case off to fit a bigger tube in your cabinet? Is the TV case too deep to fit while your cabinet still has its back panel on? &lt;br /&gt;
*Where are the video inputs?  Is the video-in port/jack on the TV in an inconvenient place?  If it is on the front of the case? Will there be room between the front of the TV and the bezel?  &lt;br /&gt;
*Does the TV return to the last channel/input when power is cut?  If you unplug the TV and then plug it back in (or turn off and on its power strip), does it return to the channel/input it was on last, or does it default to a different channel?&lt;br /&gt;
*Will you use it for other media?  Will you watch TV on your cab?  Will you need to use the TV's remote?&lt;br /&gt;
*'''The most important question... will the TV automaticallly power itself back on after a &amp;quot;power failure.&amp;quot; ''' If you turn the cabinet's power off, you want the TV to turn itself back on automatically when you later power the cabinet back on. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=TV hacks=&lt;br /&gt;
*Desolder IR tab from TV board, splice length of wire from board to IR tab, move IR tab into marquee or bezel area so it can receive remote signals better&lt;br /&gt;
*TVs generally fit into arcade monitor brackets. Remove TV from case, and bolt into old arcade monitor brackets for a solid installation&lt;br /&gt;
*(When mounting a TV onto arcade monitor backets) If you don't feel like putting screws into your TV's circuit board, use a [[rotary tool]] to cut the TV's circuit board plastic mounting slots out of the TV case. You can then screw, bolt, or twist-tie the mounting slots into your cabinet and place the circuit board back into the mounting slots. &lt;br /&gt;
*To get better antenna reception, run a 10' wire from the antenna input on your tv, out of the back of your cabinet along the complete height of the cabinet. You can staple or glue the wire flat to the cabinet. You can the paint the antenna wire if you choose.&lt;br /&gt;
*Use the TVs audio out to drive your cabinet's speakers. Run audio from your computer to your TV's audio in. You can cut the TV's audio wires to the puny TV speakers and then run the wires to the cabinet's mono or stereo speakers. The quality is low, but the quality on most original arcade cabinets was pretty low as anyway.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Televisions&amp;diff=3486</id>
		<title>Televisions</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Televisions&amp;diff=3486"/>
		<updated>2006-04-10T21:41:06Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: Added grains of wisdom from personal experience.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Televisions can be used in place of an arcade monitor.  While not as authentic, they offer reasonable video performance at a definite cost savings to the user. While TVs do not appear as authentic as actual arcade monitors, they may appear more authentic than the output from a computer monitor in many instances, while smaller Windows text boxes can still be read unlike the output from an arcade monitor. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Connection types=&lt;br /&gt;
When using a TV, make sure to match the outputs of your video card to the inputs of your television.  Several types of video are available when using a TV, each with varying strengths and weaknesses. The more common formats are:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*  [[Video Output#Coaxial|Coaxial]]&lt;br /&gt;
*  [[Video Output#Composite Video (RCA)|Composite Video (RCA)]]&lt;br /&gt;
*  [[Video Output#S-Video|S-Video]]&lt;br /&gt;
*  [[Video Output#Component Video (YUV)|Component Video (YUV)]]&lt;br /&gt;
*  [[Video Output#SCART|SCART]] (Europe)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The type of connection you can use may depend on the connections your videocard can offer and the connections your television accepts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Things to consider when choosing a TV=&lt;br /&gt;
Some things to consider when choosing a TV for your cabinet:&lt;br /&gt;
*How big is the case? Do you want to leave the TV in its case or strip the case off to fit a bigger tube in your cabinet? Is the TV case too deep to fit while your cabinet still has its back panel on? &lt;br /&gt;
*Where are the video inputs?  Is the video-in port/jack on the TV in an inconvenient place?  If it is on the front of the case? Will there be room between the front of the TV and the bezel?  &lt;br /&gt;
*Does the TV return to the last channel/input when power is cut?  If you unplug the TV and then plug it back in (or turn off and on its power strip), does it return to the channel/input it was on last, or does it default to a different channel?&lt;br /&gt;
*Will you use it for other media?  Will you watch TV on your cab?  Will you need to use the TV's remote?&lt;br /&gt;
*'''The most important question... will the TV automaticallly power itself back on after a &amp;quot;power failure.&amp;quot; ''' If you turn the cabinet's power off, you want the TV to turn itself back on automatically when you later power the cabinet back on. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=TV Hacks=&lt;br /&gt;
*Desolder IR tab from TV board, splice length of wire from board to IR tab, move IR tab into marquee or bezel area so it can receive remote signals better&lt;br /&gt;
*TVs generally fit into arcade monitor brackets. Remove TV from case, and bolt into old arcade monitor brackets for a solid installation&lt;br /&gt;
*(When mounting a TV onto arcade monitor backets) If you don't feel like putting screws into your TV's circuit board, use a [[rotary tool]] to cut the TV's circuit board plastic mounting slots out of the TV case. You can then screw, bolt, or twist-tie the mounting slots into your cabinet and place the circuit board back into the mounting slots. &lt;br /&gt;
*To get better antenna reception, run a 10' wire from the antenna input on your tv, out of the back of your cabinet along the complete height of the cabinet. You can staple or glue the wire flat to the cabinet. You can the paint the antenna wire if you choose.&lt;br /&gt;
*Use the TVs audio out to drive your cabinet's speakers. Run audio from your computer to your TV's audio in. You can cut the TV's audio wires to the puny TV speakers and then run the wires to the cabinet's mono or stereo speakers. The quality is low, but the quality on most original arcade cabinets was pretty low as anyway.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Talk:Keyboard_Encoders&amp;diff=3448</id>
		<title>Talk:Keyboard Encoders</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Talk:Keyboard_Encoders&amp;diff=3448"/>
		<updated>2006-04-07T23:04:21Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;We should create redirects to this page from common words and mispellings like Ipac and i-pac. Should also find a place to put FAQ information about these encoders, programming hints, etc. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For example, it took me 10 minutes to figure out to control-click on a button while programming an iPac to set it to &amp;quot;none&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
--[[User:Mahuti|mahuti]] 19:03, 7 April 2006 (EDT)&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Talk:Keyboard_Encoders&amp;diff=3447</id>
		<title>Talk:Keyboard Encoders</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Talk:Keyboard_Encoders&amp;diff=3447"/>
		<updated>2006-04-07T23:03:03Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;We should create redirects to this page from common words and mispellings like Ipac and i-pac.&lt;br /&gt;
--[[User:Mahuti|mahuti]] 19:03, 7 April 2006 (EDT)&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Talk:Keyboard_Encoders&amp;diff=3446</id>
		<title>Talk:Keyboard Encoders</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Talk:Keyboard_Encoders&amp;diff=3446"/>
		<updated>2006-04-07T23:02:27Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;We should create redirects to this page from common words and mispellings like Ipac and i-pac.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=PC_Operating_System_Comparison&amp;diff=3385</id>
		<title>PC Operating System Comparison</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=PC_Operating_System_Comparison&amp;diff=3385"/>
		<updated>2006-04-03T20:03:34Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: /* Image:OS apple icon.gif Mac OS */ tried to more fully reflect pro / v con issues.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;===Introduction===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Back in the day, MAME was developed to run from DOS and users had to use a Windows frontend or Mame32 to get it running in Windows. From MAME v0.37b15 onwards, Windows became the MAME developers' platform of choice. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Running an older version of MAME from pure DOS will allow you to run a large number of games at a higher speed than would be possible on the same computer running Windows.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
These days, a DOS system can take a lot of work to set up correctly, due to the lack of software support from motherboard and device manufacturers. For these users, a Linux install makes a lot of sense.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Each of these three operating systems has advantages and disadvantages.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==[[Image:OS DOS icon.gif]] DOS==&lt;br /&gt;
'''Advantages:'''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Boots to your Front-End faster&lt;br /&gt;
*Stable, does rarely crash&lt;br /&gt;
*Can display on an arcade monitor without special hardware&lt;br /&gt;
*Using batch files (.bat) a high degree of customization is available (including menu creation)&lt;br /&gt;
*Low cost&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Disadvantages:'''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Newer hardware may not work under DOS (such as TV - Out and USB) without special software.&lt;br /&gt;
*Command line interface, only suitable for experienced computer users.&lt;br /&gt;
*No longer supported&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==[[Image:OS linux icon.gif]] Linux==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Advantages:'''&lt;br /&gt;
*Free&lt;br /&gt;
*Open Source&lt;br /&gt;
*More likely to support newer technology than DOS&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Disadvantages:'''&lt;br /&gt;
*Lower market share&lt;br /&gt;
*Can be complicated to set up&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
==[[Image:OS windows icon.gif]] Windows==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Advantages:'''&lt;br /&gt;
*Huge market share advantage&lt;br /&gt;
*Software generally is developed primarily for Windows (MAME and most front ends included)&lt;br /&gt;
*Much larger selection of software&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Disadvantages:'''&lt;br /&gt;
*Is difficult to display on arcade monitor without special hardware&lt;br /&gt;
*Longer boot time&lt;br /&gt;
*Security holes (however less relevant in a stand-alone environment such as an arcade cabinet)&lt;br /&gt;
*Frequent operating system patches needed&lt;br /&gt;
*Higher cost&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==[[Image:OS apple icon.gif]] Mac OS X==&lt;br /&gt;
'''Advantages:'''&lt;br /&gt;
*Low software maintenance requirements. (negligible occurrence of viruses, trojans, spyware) &lt;br /&gt;
'''Disadvantages:'''&lt;br /&gt;
*Higher initial cost&lt;br /&gt;
*Fewer choices for front-ends (only 1 cabinet friendly front end avlailable) &lt;br /&gt;
*Several major encoder manufacturers do not create Apple compatible encoders&lt;br /&gt;
*Fewer choices for gamepads and hackable controller parts&lt;br /&gt;
*Fewer emulators have been ported to Mac OS X&lt;br /&gt;
*Much smaller homebrew application development community&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Relevant Links==&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://members.cox.net/mame1/index.htm Purple MAME] - a good (but outdated) site on getting DOS Mame running on a cab.&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://www.mameworld.net/dosmame/ Dos Mame Support] - another good site on getting DOS Mame running on a DOS cab, including getting sound cards working and memory management.&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://http-server.carleton.ca/~dmcfet/menu.html How to make DOS Menus] - a site showing how you can create menus in DOS (great for boot menus).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
TODO:&lt;br /&gt;
add FreeDOS&lt;br /&gt;
add links to some Linux distros&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Talk:Front-Ends&amp;diff=3249</id>
		<title>Talk:Front-Ends</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Talk:Front-Ends&amp;diff=3249"/>
		<updated>2006-03-30T09:56:29Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: need to add emulaunch front end&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;I didden't like the &amp;quot;Other Features&amp;quot; destriptions. It should use icons, because ABCDE is not rememable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Please see the discussion thread [[Talk:Jukebox_Software]] about -ware in the jukebox software, why &amp;quot;freeware&amp;quot; &amp;quot;shareware&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Commercial&amp;quot; is choosen.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This one started the discussion about using the table with is lots better then the bunch of text.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
--[[User:Spacefractal|Spacefractal]] 08:15, 21 March 2006 (EST)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Need to add Emulaunch (the only? front-end for macs)&lt;br /&gt;
http://www.emulaunch.com/&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
--[[User:Mahuti|mahuti]] 04:56, 30 March 2006 (EST)&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Gridlee&amp;diff=3159</id>
		<title>Gridlee</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Gridlee&amp;diff=3159"/>
		<updated>2006-03-28T16:54:24Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: typo&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;'''Gridlee''' is an arcade game playable through the emulator [[MAME]]. The game is one of the few games in MAME which may be downloaded with permission from the copyright holders. You can download the game's ROM images [http://www.mame.net/downmisc.html here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Since this ROM image is available to everyone for free, it will be used throughout this Wiki in MAME related samples.''' See also the Wikipedia article section [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ROM_image#Legal_Status_of_ROMs Legal Status of ROMs].&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Creating_Your_Own_Art_From_Scratch&amp;diff=3147</id>
		<title>Creating Your Own Art From Scratch</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Creating_Your_Own_Art_From_Scratch&amp;diff=3147"/>
		<updated>2006-03-27T16:23:27Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: /* Tools of the trade */ minor spelling / grammar edits.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;= How to be a good designer =&lt;br /&gt;
Good design is a little science, a little art. If you have any question about how to create great art for a cabinet, just take a look at the classics. Defender, Joust, Ms Pac Man all have themes that are very cohesive, creative and have an extremely polished appearance. Some of the later conversion cabinet kits weren't themed as well, and they look pale in comparison. To make sure that your cabinet theme looks like it was created by a pro, try to take some lessons from those classic designs. There are no hard and fast rules, but the following are good general guides to keep in mind&lt;br /&gt;
* Keep each piece cohesive with the rest. The marquee, control panel, side art, and cabinet paint job should look like they belong together. &lt;br /&gt;
** Use matching colors. A tool like [http://www.easyrgb.com/harmonies.php Easy RGB] can give you suggestions of matching colors.&lt;br /&gt;
** Repeat the same logo or characters across each of your pieces. &lt;br /&gt;
** Use similar stylistic elements on each piece. If you use a blue border with a drop shadow, use that on another piece. &lt;br /&gt;
** People tend to consider images / elements presented together in groups of three or more as themes. It's hard to make an association with just two or less items. If you put red on a marquee, blue on your side art, green on your bezel, and purple on your CPO, your cab is going to look a bit disjointed. A red CPO with a blue marquee, blue sideart, and blue bezel might look striking, however. &lt;br /&gt;
* Limit your font choices to 1 or 2&lt;br /&gt;
** Use a [[display font]] for titles or logos, and regular fonts like Helvetica, Universe, Futura, Garamond, or even Arial and Times (if you must) for any instructional copy. Make instructional copy easy to read. It doesn't have to be big, but clear enough to read. If it's not clear enough to read, then just leave it off. &lt;br /&gt;
** On Marquees, your marquee title should use up the majority of space in most instances. Filling up a marquee with a bunch of characters and some tiny, wispy text is going to look really weak, and un-arcade like. Most cabinet titles you'll see on real machines take up the majority of space with characters forming around the borders, in the background, or snaking through the lettering. Bombastic... make the text part  of the design, make it larger than life, make it speak for the cabinet in more ways than simple words can convey. &lt;br /&gt;
* Feel free to overlay boxes, lines, shapes, little symbols, onto any photos or images you might be using. Integrate the image into the rest of your theme. &lt;br /&gt;
* Don't feel that you need to fill all of the space. Smart use of whitespace can do wonders. &lt;br /&gt;
* Keep things balanced. If you add images to the left side of the marquee, you may want to put some stylistic elements or another image on the right to hold everything together. Not a hard and fast rule, but something to try out. &lt;br /&gt;
* Keep your buttons, joysticks, and accessories in mind. Before buying bright green t-molding, make sure it will make sense with your theme. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When you're done with your design, you may want to take some time before rushing out to get it printed. &lt;br /&gt;
* Print out a full size, low-res mockup (even on multiple pieces of paper) and live with it on your cab for a few days. &lt;br /&gt;
* Ask others for their honest opinion and expect some harsh comments. Request criticism. &lt;br /&gt;
** Press for real opinions, tell them you are asking for criticism to make it better. You can always ignore the comments, but the information you glean may be priceless. &lt;br /&gt;
** Don't be hurt by honest criticism. Everyone has differences of opinion. Hearing criticism can help you firm up your own opinions, you can discover how you really feel. &lt;br /&gt;
** A simple &amp;quot;I like it&amp;quot; does not mean your design is great. It means you have nice friends. When pressed, even your dear old grandmother may have some criticism stored up. &lt;br /&gt;
*When you are done with your design, look at it in a mirror. You'll be amazed at the new perspective you can get from looking at a reversed image... it can help you step back from your own ideas.&lt;br /&gt;
*ALWAYS, always, always, use spell check, check the spelling yourself, and and ask someone else to check it. You don't want to spend $40 on a marquee with a typo.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Tools of the trade=&lt;br /&gt;
There are many software programs you can use to create graphics. See the [[graphics software]] page for a list. A few things to keep in mind:&lt;br /&gt;
* Use software that you are confortable with. You might get better gradients in Adobe Illustrator than in Microsoft Visio, but if you are struggling with the way the software works there is nothing to apply those prettty gradients to.&lt;br /&gt;
* See if your computer has the right specs. If you plan to create [[Raster_versus_Vector_artwork|raster]] artwork, make sure your computer has enough ram/memory to handle the large images.&lt;br /&gt;
The [[graphics software]] page has a few more hints and tips when selecting your software.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Do some homework=&lt;br /&gt;
When designing a cabinet from scratch, you might already have a clear picture of what you want. If you're not sure, check the ''real thing&amp;amp;trade;'', visit an arcade or take a look at [http://www.arcadeflyers.com/ the Arcade Flyer Archive] or [http://www.klov.com/ KLOV] to see what arcade cabinet artwork looks like.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/board,13.0.html BYOAC artwork forum] also has tons of idea's for artwork. It is also a good place to discuss designs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Then there is the golden rule of artwork: Experiment! Your first design does not have to be the final design!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=See also=&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Graphics software]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Vector tracing]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Front-Ends&amp;diff=2932</id>
		<title>Front-Ends</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Front-Ends&amp;diff=2932"/>
		<updated>2006-03-19T23:12:16Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Cleanup}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A frontend is a menu system that allows players to select from a list of games.  Once a game is selected from the list, the game is launched using an appropriate emulator.  Here is a list of the varioius emulators and a brief description.  If needed, further information will be found on the individual page for that emulator.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Many frontends make use of a collection of [[Screens, Titles &amp;amp; Extras|screenshots, photo's of cabinet and scans of flyers]]. These additional files can add extra information on the history or appearance of the original arcade cabinet or console game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Frontend Software ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Below is the frontend software comparison table. Click on the software's name for detailed information about that software. Please be aware that this may be incomplete! The individual pages will have the software's homepage for you to verify any information or questions you may have! &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
''Note: the table is currently filled with placeholders (placeholders are shown in italics).''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| Width=&amp;quot;100%&amp;quot; valign=&amp;quot;top&amp;quot; border=&amp;quot;1&amp;quot; cellspacing=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot; cellpadding=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;background:white; color:black; border:1px solid silver;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|- style=&amp;quot;background:navy; color:white&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|'''Software'''&lt;br /&gt;
|'''OS'''&lt;br /&gt;
|'''Type&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;'''&lt;br /&gt;
|'''Skinnable&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;'''&lt;br /&gt;
|'''Monitor'''&lt;br /&gt;
|'''Emulators&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;'''&lt;br /&gt;
|'''Resolutions'''&lt;br /&gt;
|'''Controls'''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[AdvanceMenu]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:OS windows icon.gif]][[Image:OS linux icon.gif]][[Image:OS DOS icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Software''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Skinnable''&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Emulators''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Resolutions''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Controls''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[ArcadeFE]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:OS windows icon.gif]][[Image:OS linux icon.gif]][[Image:OS DOS icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Software''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Skinnable''&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Emulators''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Resolutions''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Controls''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[ArcadeFX]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:OS windows icon.gif]][[Image:OS linux icon.gif]][[Image:OS DOS icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Software''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Skinnable''&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Emulators''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Resolutions''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Controls''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[ArcadeOS]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:OS windows icon.gif]][[Image:OS linux icon.gif]][[Image:OS DOS icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Software''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Skinnable''&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Emulators''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Resolutions''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Controls''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[AtomicFE]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:OS windows icon.gif]][[Image:OS linux icon.gif]][[Image:OS DOS icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Software''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Skinnable''&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Emulators''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Resolutions''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Controls''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Dragon King]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:OS windows icon.gif]][[Image:OS linux icon.gif]][[Image:OS DOS icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Software''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Skinnable''&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Emulators''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Resolutions''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Controls''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Emulaxian/3D Arcade]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:OS windows icon.gif]][[Image:OS linux icon.gif]][[Image:OS DOS icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Software''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Skinnable''&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Emulators''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Resolutions''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Controls''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Emuloader]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:OS windows icon.gif]][[Image:OS linux icon.gif]][[Image:OS DOS icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Software''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Skinnable''&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Emulators''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Resolutions''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Controls''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[GameLauncher]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:OS windows icon.gif]][[Image:OS linux icon.gif]][[Image:OS DOS icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Software''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Skinnable''&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Emulators''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Resolutions''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Controls''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[GameEx]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:OS windows icon.gif]][[Image:OS linux icon.gif]][[Image:OS DOS icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Software''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Skinnable''&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Emulators''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Resolutions''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Controls''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Kymaera]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:OS windows icon.gif]][[Image:OS linux icon.gif]][[Image:OS DOS icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Software''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Skinnable''&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Emulators''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Resolutions''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Controls''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[MaLa]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:OS windows icon.gif]][[Image:OS linux icon.gif]][[Image:OS DOS icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Software''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Skinnable''&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Emulators''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Resolutions''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Controls''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[MAME32]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:OS windows icon.gif]][[Image:OS linux icon.gif]][[Image:OS DOS icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Software''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Skinnable''&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Emulators''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Resolutions''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Controls''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Mamewah]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Freeware''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Full''&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Emulators''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Resolutions''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Controls''&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''1)''' Type:&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Freeware:''' is fully functional without payment.  A nag screen or ads are not considered a loss of functionality. &lt;br /&gt;
* '''Shareware:''' has limited functionality until payment is made. &lt;br /&gt;
* '''Commercial:''' software is fully functional for a limited time, after which payment must be made.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''2)''' Skinnable: &lt;br /&gt;
* '''Basic:  ''' change only the background and/or add album art&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Partial:  ''' change the background and/or album art, text size and/or color&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Advanced:  ''' change all artwork. The interface elements are locked in place, although buttons may be able to be resized&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Full:  ''' change all artwork, all interface elements can been changed (resize, moveable and resoulution).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''3)''' Emulators:&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Front-Ends&amp;diff=2931</id>
		<title>Front-Ends</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Front-Ends&amp;diff=2931"/>
		<updated>2006-03-19T23:11:39Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: edited mamewah&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Cleanup}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A frontend is a menu system that allows players to select from a list of games.  Once a game is selected from the list, the game is launched using an appropriate emulator.  Here is a list of the varioius emulators and a brief description.  If needed, further information will be found on the individual page for that emulator.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Many frontends make use of a collection of [[Screens, Titles &amp;amp; Extras|screenshots, photo's of cabinet and scans of flyers]]. These additional files can add extra information on the history or appearance of the original arcade cabinet or console game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Frontend Software ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Below is the frontend software comparison table. Click on the software's name for detailed information about that software. Please be aware that this may be incomplete! The individual pages will have the software's homepage for you to verify any information or questions you may have! &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
''Note: the table is currently filled with placeholders (placeholders are shown in italics).''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| Width=&amp;quot;100%&amp;quot; valign=&amp;quot;top&amp;quot; border=&amp;quot;1&amp;quot; cellspacing=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot; cellpadding=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;background:white; color:black; border:1px solid silver;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|- style=&amp;quot;background:navy; color:white&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|'''Software'''&lt;br /&gt;
|'''OS'''&lt;br /&gt;
|'''Type&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;'''&lt;br /&gt;
|'''Skinnable&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;2&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;'''&lt;br /&gt;
|'''Monitor'''&lt;br /&gt;
|'''Emulators&amp;lt;sup&amp;gt;3&amp;lt;/sup&amp;gt;'''&lt;br /&gt;
|'''Resolutions'''&lt;br /&gt;
|'''Controls'''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[AdvanceMenu]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:OS windows icon.gif]][[Image:OS linux icon.gif]][[Image:OS DOS icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Software''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Skinnable''&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Emulators''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Resolutions''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Controls''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[ArcadeFE]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:OS windows icon.gif]][[Image:OS linux icon.gif]][[Image:OS DOS icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Software''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Skinnable''&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Emulators''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Resolutions''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Controls''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[ArcadeFX]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:OS windows icon.gif]][[Image:OS linux icon.gif]][[Image:OS DOS icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Software''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Skinnable''&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Emulators''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Resolutions''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Controls''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[ArcadeOS]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:OS windows icon.gif]][[Image:OS linux icon.gif]][[Image:OS DOS icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Software''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Skinnable''&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Emulators''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Resolutions''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Controls''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[AtomicFE]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:OS windows icon.gif]][[Image:OS linux icon.gif]][[Image:OS DOS icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Software''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Skinnable''&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Emulators''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Resolutions''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Controls''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Dragon King]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:OS windows icon.gif]][[Image:OS linux icon.gif]][[Image:OS DOS icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Software''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Skinnable''&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Emulators''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Resolutions''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Controls''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Emulaxian/3D Arcade]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:OS windows icon.gif]][[Image:OS linux icon.gif]][[Image:OS DOS icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Software''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Skinnable''&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Emulators''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Resolutions''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Controls''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Emuloader]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:OS windows icon.gif]][[Image:OS linux icon.gif]][[Image:OS DOS icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Software''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Skinnable''&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Emulators''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Resolutions''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Controls''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[GameLauncher]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:OS windows icon.gif]][[Image:OS linux icon.gif]][[Image:OS DOS icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Software''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Skinnable''&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Emulators''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Resolutions''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Controls''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[GameEx]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:OS windows icon.gif]][[Image:OS linux icon.gif]][[Image:OS DOS icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Software''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Skinnable''&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Emulators''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Resolutions''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Controls''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Kymaera]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:OS windows icon.gif]][[Image:OS linux icon.gif]][[Image:OS DOS icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Software''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Skinnable''&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Emulators''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Resolutions''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Controls''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[MaLa]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:OS windows icon.gif]][[Image:OS linux icon.gif]][[Image:OS DOS icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Software''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Skinnable''&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Emulators''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Resolutions''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Controls''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[MAME32]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:OS windows icon.gif]][[Image:OS linux icon.gif]][[Image:OS DOS icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Software''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Skinnable''&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Emulators''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Resolutions''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Controls''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Mamewah]]&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:OS windows icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Freeware''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Full''&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:Monitor horizontal icon.gif]][[Image:Monitor vertical icon.gif]]&lt;br /&gt;
|''Emulators''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Resolutions''&lt;br /&gt;
|''Controls''&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''1)''' Type:&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Freeware:''' is fully functional without payment.  A nag screen or ads are not considered a loss of functionality. &lt;br /&gt;
* '''Shareware:''' has limited functionality until payment is made. &lt;br /&gt;
* '''Commercial:''' software is fully functional for a limited time, after which payment must be made.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''2)''' Skinnable: &lt;br /&gt;
* '''Basic:  ''' change only the background and/or add album art&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Partial:  ''' change the background and/or album art, text size and/or color&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Advanced:  ''' change all artwork. The interface elements are locked in place, although buttons may be able to be resized&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Full:  ''' change all artwork, all interface elements can been changed (resize, moveable and resoulution).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''3)''' Emulators:&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=NeoPop_161_Ini_File&amp;diff=2848</id>
		<title>NeoPop 161 Ini File</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=NeoPop_161_Ini_File&amp;diff=2848"/>
		<updated>2006-03-18T06:41:06Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: added content to ini file.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt; &amp;lt;pre&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
### blank.ini (mamewah v1.61) ###&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
emulator_title                                  NeoGeo Pocket Color&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
### List Generation Settings ###&lt;br /&gt;
rom_path                                        c:\arcade\roms\neopocket&lt;br /&gt;
rom_extension                                ngp&lt;br /&gt;
dat_file                                  &lt;br /&gt;
nms_file                                  &lt;br /&gt;
catver_ini_file                           &lt;br /&gt;
list_generation_method                   rom_folder &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
### Execution Settings ###&lt;br /&gt;
emulator_executable                       c:\arcade\emulators\neopop\neopop-win32.exe&lt;br /&gt;
commandline_format                       &amp;quot;{8.3[rompath]\[name].[romext]}&amp;quot;{safelaunch}&lt;br /&gt;
alt_commandline_format_2               [name]   &lt;br /&gt;
game_specific_config_path               [name] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
### Artwork Locations ###&lt;br /&gt;
artwork_1_image_path                      C:\arcade\emulators\neopop\Snaps&lt;br /&gt;
artwork_2_image_path                      C:\arcade\emulators\neopop\Titles&lt;br /&gt;
artwork_3_image_path                      &lt;br /&gt;
artwork_4_image_path                      &lt;br /&gt;
artwork_5_image_path                      &lt;br /&gt;
artwork_6_image_path                      &lt;br /&gt;
artwork_7_image_path                      &lt;br /&gt;
artwork_8_image_path                      &lt;br /&gt;
artwork_9_image_path                      &lt;br /&gt;
artwork_10_image_path                     &lt;br /&gt;
movie_preview_path                        &lt;br /&gt;
movie_artwork_no                          1&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
### Screen-Saver Settings ###&lt;br /&gt;
enable_music_in_screensaver               0&lt;br /&gt;
saver_type                                &lt;br /&gt;
movie_path                                &lt;br /&gt;
movie_fullscreen                          &lt;br /&gt;
quit_delay                                &lt;br /&gt;
wrapper_executable                        &lt;br /&gt;
wrapper_commandline_format                &lt;br /&gt;
scr_file                                  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
### External Application Settings ###&lt;br /&gt;
ipc_file_or_path                          &lt;br /&gt;
app_1_executable                          c:\cpvw\cpvw.exe&lt;br /&gt;
app_1_commandline_format          -b=c:\cpvw\images\neogeopocketcolor.jpg        &lt;br /&gt;
app_2_executable                          c:\cpvw\cpvw.exe&lt;br /&gt;
app_2_commandline_format          -b=c:\cpvw\images\mamewah.jpg        &lt;br /&gt;
app_3_executable                          c:\histview_consoles\histview.exe&lt;br /&gt;
app_3_commandline_format           -r=neogeopocketcolor       &lt;br /&gt;
auto_launch_apps                          &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
### Additional Settings ###&lt;br /&gt;
music_path                                &lt;br /&gt;
lcd_display_file_path                     &lt;br /&gt;
lcd_fe_text                               &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
### Settings used by MAMEWAH ###&lt;br /&gt;
current_list&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/pre&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Mamewah Ini Files]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=NeoPop_161_Ini_File&amp;diff=2846</id>
		<title>NeoPop 161 Ini File</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=NeoPop_161_Ini_File&amp;diff=2846"/>
		<updated>2006-03-18T06:37:49Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: created NG Pocket page&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt; &amp;lt;pre&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
### blank.ini (mamewah v1.61) ###&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
emulator_title                            &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
### List Generation Settings ###&lt;br /&gt;
rom_path                                  &lt;br /&gt;
rom_extension                             &lt;br /&gt;
dat_file                                  &lt;br /&gt;
nms_file                                  &lt;br /&gt;
catver_ini_file                           &lt;br /&gt;
list_generation_method                    &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
### Execution Settings ###&lt;br /&gt;
emulator_executable                       &lt;br /&gt;
commandline_format                        &lt;br /&gt;
alt_commandline_format_2                  &lt;br /&gt;
game_specific_config_path                 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
### Artwork Locations ###&lt;br /&gt;
artwork_1_image_path                      &lt;br /&gt;
artwork_2_image_path                      &lt;br /&gt;
artwork_3_image_path                      &lt;br /&gt;
artwork_4_image_path                      &lt;br /&gt;
artwork_5_image_path                      &lt;br /&gt;
artwork_6_image_path                      &lt;br /&gt;
artwork_7_image_path                      &lt;br /&gt;
artwork_8_image_path                      &lt;br /&gt;
artwork_9_image_path                      &lt;br /&gt;
artwork_10_image_path                     &lt;br /&gt;
movie_preview_path                        &lt;br /&gt;
movie_artwork_no                          &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
### Screen-Saver Settings ###&lt;br /&gt;
enable_music_in_screensaver               &lt;br /&gt;
saver_type                                &lt;br /&gt;
movie_path                                &lt;br /&gt;
movie_fullscreen                          &lt;br /&gt;
quit_delay                                &lt;br /&gt;
wrapper_executable                        &lt;br /&gt;
wrapper_commandline_format                &lt;br /&gt;
scr_file                                  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
### External Application Settings ###&lt;br /&gt;
ipc_file_or_path                          &lt;br /&gt;
app_1_executable                          &lt;br /&gt;
app_1_commandline_format                  &lt;br /&gt;
app_2_executable                          &lt;br /&gt;
app_2_commandline_format                  &lt;br /&gt;
app_3_executable                          &lt;br /&gt;
app_3_commandline_format                  &lt;br /&gt;
auto_launch_apps                          &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
### Additional Settings ###&lt;br /&gt;
music_path                                &lt;br /&gt;
lcd_display_file_path                     &lt;br /&gt;
lcd_fe_text                               &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
### Settings used by MAMEWAH ###&lt;br /&gt;
current_list&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/pre&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Mamewah Ini Files]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=MameWah_161_Ini_files&amp;diff=2844</id>
		<title>MameWah 161 Ini files</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=MameWah_161_Ini_files&amp;diff=2844"/>
		<updated>2006-03-18T06:37:24Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: /* INI files */ added NG Pocket ini file.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;MameWah uses a system of INI files to configure the various functionalities of the front-end. There are three types of INI config files:&lt;br /&gt;
*mamewah.ini (used for main/global settings of MameWah itself)&lt;br /&gt;
*emuname.ini (emulator-specific settings)&lt;br /&gt;
*emuname-$.ini (list-specific settings for each emulator; $ is the list number for that emulator).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== How to add your own INI file here ==&lt;br /&gt;
If you have your own finished INI file and would like to add it, simply create add a new link here and on the new page, paste your INI file in between the &amp;lt;nowiki&amp;gt;&amp;lt;pre&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/pre&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/nowiki&amp;gt; tags. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you do not have an INI file, but would like to add one, the Wiki will automatically format it by using the Mamewah 1.61 INI template. Add the following code to your INI page (make sure it's linked here. &amp;lt;nowiki&amp;gt;{{subst:Mamewah161}}&amp;lt;/nowiki&amp;gt;, then edit your page again. You will see a perfectly preformatted INI file to add your own info to.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= INI files =&lt;br /&gt;
These INI files are emulator-specific settings.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*[[FCE Ultra 161 Ini File|FCE Ultra]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Daphne 161 Ini File|Daphne]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[NeoPop 161 Ini File|Neo Geo Pocket and Pocket Color]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== External links ==&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://www.emuchrist.org/cpviewer/mamewahinifiles.htm http://www.emuchrist.org/cpviewer/mamewahinifiles.htm] Excellent MameWah INI files from the creator of CPViewer&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://mamewah.mameworld.net/docs/ini.txt http://mamewah.mameworld.net/docs/ini.txt] Official help file from MameWah - shows a list of all the available INI file settings&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Mamewah Ini Files]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Basic_Guide_to_Building_a_Cabinet&amp;diff=2814</id>
		<title>Basic Guide to Building a Cabinet</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Basic_Guide_to_Building_a_Cabinet&amp;diff=2814"/>
		<updated>2006-03-17T20:15:12Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;So you want to build yourself a cabinet? Here is a basicguide to get you on the road. Some things mentioned might be daunting at first, but take a look at the things mentioned on this page and it might notify you on something you otherwise had overlooked.&lt;br /&gt;
If you have questions, never be afraid to ask in the Build Your Own Arcade Controls [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/ forums].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Things to consider first=&lt;br /&gt;
You don't want to rush out and just buy yourself a few pieces of [[Wood_products|wood]], fire up your [[Power Tools|power tools]] and start cutting! First things first:&lt;br /&gt;
* '''What kind of cabinet do you want?''' &lt;br /&gt;
:Cabinets come in all shapes and sizes. There are sample plans available ([http://arcadecontrols.com/arcade_cabinet_plans.shtml see here]) on the BYOAC site. There are also [[Vendors]] whom sell full cabinet kits. &lt;br /&gt;
:If you want to design your own cabinet, take a look [http://arcadecontrols.com/arcade_cabinet_plans.shtml#dimensions here]. Some things to keep in mind when figuring out your dimensions are: &lt;br /&gt;
::#How tall you are. You don't want to end up with a control panel you can't reach conmortably or look at a screen that is too low for your comfort.&lt;br /&gt;
::#The size of the monitor. If you want to put in a 36&amp;quot; screen, make sure it fits.&lt;br /&gt;
::#The size of your control panel. If you want to have a gazillion controls on it, but you made it only 10&amp;quot; wide you are probably going to run out of space.&lt;br /&gt;
:Instead of building your own cabinet, you may also choose to restore or convert an existing cabinet. See also [[notes on converting a cabinet]].&lt;br /&gt;
:Whatever you decide, one very important thing to consider before ANYTHING is done, is ''how wide are your doorways?'' If you can't get it to the location you have planned, all your work will be for naught! &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*'''What do I use to run the software?'''&lt;br /&gt;
:Do you plan to use a PC and run [[Emulators]]? If so, does the PC fit in the cabinet you designed? Do you plan to wire a [[JAMMA]] board? Are you planning on using console games?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*'''What controls are you going to want on your cabinet?'''&lt;br /&gt;
:What kind of games do you want to play? Take note of what controls those games use. How many players? The [[control panel]] needs more space if you want a 4 player cabinet. Generally, if you want to play fighter games, you will need 6 buttons per player. If you want a 4 player cabinet, keep in mind that there aren't any non-console games that support more than 4 buttons for player 3 and 4. Take a look at [[Contents#Arcade_Control_Hardware|Arcade Control hardware]] section for more info on [[joysticks]], [[trackballs]], [[spinners]], etc. It is also possible to buy ready made control panels.  See the [[vendors]] page on where to get these items.&lt;br /&gt;
:It is also a wise idea when it comes to control panel design to 'test fit' your controls using a piece of cardboard, cheap wood, or a piece of ridgid insulation. Your layout might look good on paper (or in your [[Technical_design_software|design software]]), but nothing beats testing to make sure everything is to your satisfaction prior to making your final model.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*'''How to interface the controls?'''&lt;br /&gt;
:Once you have decided what controls you want, how do those controls connect to the PC? See the  [[Contents#Interfacing_Controls_With_Your_PC|interfacing controls with your PC]] section for various options. Things to keep in mind when selecting an interface board, are the number of available connections and the amount of controls you plan to use.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*'''What type of display device do you want to use?'''&lt;br /&gt;
:There are various options, ranging from [[Televisions]], [[PC Monitors]] and even real [[Arcade Monitors]]. Keep in mind that these have different connections and might need a special [[Video Cards|videocard]]. Also an arcade monitor is mounted diffently in a cabinet than a television (which might sit on a shelf in your cab).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*'''What about artwork?'''&lt;br /&gt;
:[[Contents#Arcade_Art|Artwork]] can make your cabinet stand out and look authentic or personalized. What art are you going to use and what size do the images need to be? Do you want art on your [[Control panel]]?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Any extra's?'''&lt;br /&gt;
:How do you want to control your emulator software? Do you want special administration buttons on your control panel (or hidden elsewhere on your cabinet?). Do you want to add a drawer to have access to your PC's keyboard? Perhaps add a [[Coin Doors|coin door]] or have 'insert coin' buttons? Do you want speakers with volume control? Any special lighting such as lighted buttons or a marquee?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Building the cabinet=&lt;br /&gt;
Once you settled on your cabinet's design, it is time to start the hard dirty work. Your arcade experience is basically two parts. The cabinet itself and the computer that runs it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The [[Contents#Building_Materials|building materials]] and [[Contents#Tools|tools]] sections might give you hints on what to use. Always keep in mind the golden rule of woodworking: measure twice, cut once!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Building the guts=&lt;br /&gt;
Once the cabinet is built, you can install the controls and wire everything up.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Setting up the computer=&lt;br /&gt;
It is probably a good idea to get your emulators up and running before you move your PC into the cabinet. While a cabinet is great for playing arcade games, it is not a very confortable working spot to fix your software's settings. &lt;br /&gt;
If you have more computers in your home, you might want to consider hooking the arcade cabinet computer into a home network. This allows you to update files from another PC or even control the computer using a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Terminal_Services remote desktop client tool].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Relevant links=&lt;br /&gt;
* [http://spystyle.arcadecontrols.com/index1.htm SpyStyle's DIY Arcade walkthrough] A step-by-step guide for building a cabinet. &lt;br /&gt;
* [http://users.adelphia.net/~seanhat/arcade/ LuSiD's Arcade Flashback] Many DIY cabinets have been based on this guide.&lt;br /&gt;
* [http://minimame.com/downloads.asp MiniMame PDF plans] An excellent printable guide. The document describes a scaled down version of an arcade cabinet, the used techniques are usable in full scale projects as well.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Applying_CPOs&amp;diff=2813</id>
		<title>Applying CPOs</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Applying_CPOs&amp;diff=2813"/>
		<updated>2006-03-17T20:12:54Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: wikified some of the code.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Before you even think about applying a control panel covering to you control panel, there are a few things you should know; proper use of an x-acto blade, how to line up the holes on your CP with those on a pre-printed overlay, and proper adhesive techniques. Most of it's pretty easy. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=How to use an exacto.=&lt;br /&gt;
Duh.. right? Maybe not. It's easy to ruin a $40 CPO with an errant cut. Using your exacto the right way may save you some time and cash. Always use a new blade every time you do a new CPO. If you feel like you nicked some metal, concrete or a screw... put a new blade on while you're cutting the CPO. They're cheap, and they need to be absolutely razor sharp to get a great cut. Also, it's better to make several light cuts than 1 deep cut. Using lots of pressure is a good way to miss and overshoot the cut, especially when doing a circle. Using 1 light cut to begin breaking the fibers apart on the CPO, and then successive light cuts to finish it up is the best way to execute a perfect cut. Generally where perfection matters, making a series of about 5-15 light, light cuts, rather than 1 through and through cut may take a bit more time, but will generally provide a better cut. Plus if you over shoot once, it's easy to correct on successive cuts, without the mistake being super obvious.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=How to line up the holes on your printed cp with your control panel =&lt;br /&gt;
The best method is to get your CPO printed, and then use the registration marks (little x's in the middle of the blank button areas) or the button / joystick center points as guides for cutting your contol panel. you can lay the CPO on top of your wood or metal blank, and use any type of scratching or poking devise to put drill points on your control panel. Once you've drilled your CP, you can easily align the holes on your CPO with the holes on the CP. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are going to send a custom CPO design to a printer and you already cut your control panel, you can, a. recut the control panel to match your design, b. do a low-res scan of your control panel and move the holes on your CPO design around to match, or c. take tons of measurements of your control panel, and adjust the holes on your CP design to match up with those measurements, print out a low res version to confirm the design is indeed correct. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Heating Helps =&lt;br /&gt;
Heating up your CPO with a hairdryer or heatgun if you know how to use it sparingly, will help the material lay flat, bend around corners, stretch and flatten better than the material at room temperature. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Staples, tacks &amp;amp; adhesive =&lt;br /&gt;
Use staples or carpet tacks to help hold a control panel overlay in place while the adhesive is drying. This will ensure that your CPO does not come up, especially if you applied it over tightly angled corners. Use a light to medium amount of adhesive. You want the material tacky, not wet, to insure that it dries in a timely manner, and will not shift while it's drying, If you used staples, a light amount of adhesive will have no problem keeping your CPO down forever. Spray adhesive like 3M Super 77 works fine. Using a brush applied adhesive may provide a little more glue than you need. Photo mount adhesive is not recommended, as it is not meant for permanent fixed adhesion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Printed Vinyl Overlays =&lt;br /&gt;
If you have purchased a CPO from ebay, a reseller, arcade auction, and are ready to apply it to your control panel, you can apply it like so; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#If your CP is wood, and the edges are sharp, use a hasp to slightly round off edges of your CP on all sides.  &lt;br /&gt;
#Make sure your holes are already drilled, any necessary mounting plates are installed &lt;br /&gt;
#Remove any extra material from your CPO so it only overlap's the CP on all sides by a few inches. You may want to cut the overlay almost flush with the sides so that there is no overlap on the sides. Make sure you have material overlapping the front &amp;amp; back, however.  &lt;br /&gt;
#Make sure you have tiny guide holes cut in your CPO so that you can easily align the CP holes. &lt;br /&gt;
#Lay CPO face down on flat, smooth surface. If it is vinyl, or laminated paper, you may want to heat it up slightly with a hair dryer before continuing. If it happens to be a simple sticker, heating up should not be necessary &lt;br /&gt;
#Spray a light-medium amount of glue or spray-adhesive to the underside of the CPO. &lt;br /&gt;
#Line up CP holes with CPO guilde markes.Lay the CP face down on the exposed underside of the CPO.  &lt;br /&gt;
#Wrap 1 side of the CPO around the back / bottom of the CP. (make sure to fold the corners in.) &lt;br /&gt;
#Staple or carpet tack that 1 side.  &lt;br /&gt;
#Grab opposite side of the CPO, stretch slightly, wrap around front side, staple (make sure to fold the corners in before you staple).  &lt;br /&gt;
#Stretch sides (if you did not already cut them flush) slightly and wrap around to bottom of CP, fold corners in, staple (Make sure top is smooth, wrinkle free first.) &lt;br /&gt;
#Let glue dry.  &lt;br /&gt;
#Use new blade on x-acto knife to cut holes in CPO... you can start with holes a bit smaller than they need to be... you can always cut more off, but you sure can't add more if it's gone. Your buttons, joystick dust washers, and spinners will overlap the CPO just a bit, so your cuts don't have to be perfect. Cuts around your trackball WILL be exposed, so if you have a trackball, you want to make sure that cut is perfect.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Vinyl / Pleather Overlays =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can use inexpensive, off-the-shelf vinyl/pleather to cover your control panel, for a total cost of less than $8. Here are steps to guide you through the process of applying a vinyl overlay; &lt;br /&gt;
{| align=right&lt;br /&gt;
| [[image:vinyl_back.jpg|thumb|100px|CPO Back]]&lt;br /&gt;
| [[image:vinyl_front.jpg|thumb|100px|CPO Front]]&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
#Go to fabric store, by cheap &amp;amp; supple vinyl, usually $3.50 to $7.00 per yard. 1 Yard of material is enough to cover at least 2 control panels.  &lt;br /&gt;
#If your CP is wood, and the edges are sharp, use a hasp to slightly round off edges of your CP on all sides.  &lt;br /&gt;
#Make sure your holes are already drilled, any necessary mounting plates are installed &lt;br /&gt;
#Cut vinyl to overlap CP on all sides by a few inches.  &lt;br /&gt;
#Lay vinyl face down. You may want to heat it up slightly with a hair dryer before continuing.  &lt;br /&gt;
#Spray a light-medium amount of glue or spray-adhesive to the underside of the vinyl. &lt;br /&gt;
#lay the CP face down on the exposed underside of the vinyl. &lt;br /&gt;
#Wrap 1 side of the vinyl around the back / bottom of the CP. (make sure to fold the corners in.) &lt;br /&gt;
#Staple or carpet tack that 1 side.  &lt;br /&gt;
#Grab opposite side of the vinyl, stretch slightly, wrap around front side, staple (make sure to fold the corners in before you staple).  &lt;br /&gt;
#Stretch ends slightly and wrap around to bottom of CP, fold corners in, staple (Make sure top is smooth, wrinkle free first.) &lt;br /&gt;
#Let glue dry.  &lt;br /&gt;
#Use new blade on x-acto knife to cut holes in vinyl... you can start with holes a bit smaller than they need to be... you can always cut more off, but you sure can't add more if it's gone. Your buttons, joystick dust washers, and spinners will overlap the vinyl just a bit, so your cuts don't have to be perfect. Cuts around your trackball WILL be exposed, so if you have a trackball, you want to make sure that cut is perfect.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Raster_versus_Vector_artwork&amp;diff=2812</id>
		<title>Raster versus Vector artwork</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Raster_versus_Vector_artwork&amp;diff=2812"/>
		<updated>2006-03-17T20:09:48Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Computer graphics can be defined in two ways: [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raster_graphics Raster] or [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vector_graphics Vector]. Both have their advantages and disadvantages.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pictures consist of a collection of dots - called pixels (short for picture element). The more pixels the more detail you can have in an image. The amount of pixels available to a picture is determined by a few things. Your screen for examle consists of a grid of pixels (typically 800 to 1280 pixels wide and 600 to 1024 pixeld high). Printers also vary in available pixels for an image. Most printers have 300 pixels available per inch on paper. The pixels can assume a colour and like a mosaic these dots of colours produce an image.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Raster=&lt;br /&gt;
Raster images are images that remember what dots are coloured. In short, if you create an image 200 pixels wide and 200 pixels high the raster image &amp;quot;remembers&amp;quot; the colours of 40,000 pixels.&lt;br /&gt;
Vector images are images that calculate what pixels have to be coloured. To draw a line the vector image &amp;quot;remembers&amp;quot; the start and endpoints of the line and in a 200 x 200 pixel image it calculates what pixels should be coloured.&lt;br /&gt;
The advantage of raster images is that they can be photo realistic with complex gradients &amp;amp; shading. Vector images tend to be less complex since these are harder to create.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The disadvantage of raster images is that they have fixed resolutions in which they look good. The 200x200 pixel image only has colour information stored for 40,000 pixels. When outputted on a (300 [[Glossary#D|DPI]]) printer, the image would only be 0.66&amp;quot; wide! When enlarged to a bigger size the ammount of pixels required to describe the image would increase enormously (1 square foot image on a printer would require 12,960,000 pixels!) Since (in the 200x200 pixel example) there is only information for 40,000 pixels the image would look distorted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Raster artwork '''can''' be used but one has to take the dimensions and resolutions into account to have high quality cabinet artwork.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Vector=&lt;br /&gt;
Vector images have no real size. Lines are calculated so to enlarge or reduce the image in size, all calculations are simply mulitplied or devided by a factor. Since no detail is lost in vector graphics, vectors are mainly used in the printing industry.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Compare=&lt;br /&gt;
See this example, the part in the red square is enlarged 5 times:&lt;br /&gt;
{|align=&amp;quot;center&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:Rastervsvector1.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|align=&amp;quot;center&amp;quot;|Raster version&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|align=&amp;quot;center&amp;quot;|Vector version&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:Rastervsvector2.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|[[Image:Rastervsvector3.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Graphics_software&amp;diff=2811</id>
		<title>Graphics software</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Graphics_software&amp;diff=2811"/>
		<updated>2006-03-17T20:09:24Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;'''Graphics software''' are computer programs used by designers to create artwork.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Raster software=&lt;br /&gt;
Raster software is used to create [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raster_graphics raster graphics]. Common used software is:&lt;br /&gt;
* [http://www.adobe.com/products/photoshop/main.html?lid=//products//PS+Pdwn Adobe Photoshop]&lt;br /&gt;
* [http://www.gimp.org/ Gimp]&lt;br /&gt;
* [http://www.corel.com/servlet/Satellite?pagename=Corel3/Products/Display&amp;amp;pid=1047025487586 Paintshop Pro]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Vector software=&lt;br /&gt;
Vector software is used to create [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vector_graphics vector graphics]. Common used software is:&lt;br /&gt;
* [http://www.adobe.com/products/illustrator/main.html?lid=//products//AI+Pdwn Adobe Illustrator] (a good tutorial for using Illustrator is available [http://localarcade.com/arcade_art/details.php?image_id=223 here])&lt;br /&gt;
* [http://www.corel.com/servlet/Satellite?pagename=Corel3/Products/Display&amp;amp;pfid=1047024307335 Corel Draw]&lt;br /&gt;
* [http://sourceforge.net/project/showfiles.php?group_id=4054 Sodipodi]&lt;br /&gt;
* [http://office.microsoft.com/en-us/FX010857981033.aspx Microsoft Visio]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Things to consider when choosing your software=&lt;br /&gt;
There has been much discussion over the years about which programs are better. Keep in mind when you are evaluating a software package to purchase or open source package to use, that you will probably have to output your designs to a professional printer. Not all commercial printers have all programs available, and not all features are compatible with their output hardware. Contact your printer first to make sure they'll be able to use your files.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another thing to keep in mind when selecting software, is to choose one where you feel yourself most confortable with. If you are familiar with Photoshop, you will probably feel right at home in Illustrator as well. If you are skilled in Visio you can achieve great result even the toolset is more limited than Illustrator's. It all comes down to how well you know the software and how much time you want to invest to learn new skills for a particular software package.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=See also=&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Technical design software]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Raster versus Vector artwork]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Vector_tracing&amp;diff=2810</id>
		<title>Vector tracing</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Vector_tracing&amp;diff=2810"/>
		<updated>2006-03-17T20:09:00Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: &amp;quot;add content&amp;quot; notice is on this page&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Cleanup}}&lt;br /&gt;
'''Vector tracing''' is a way to convert raster files into vector images. See &amp;quot;[[Raster versus Vector artwork]]&amp;quot; why many people prefer vector images for their arcade art. Tracing can be very time consuming and labour intensive but at the same time it can produce stunning results.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=The art of tracing=&lt;br /&gt;
''-need to add content-''&lt;br /&gt;
A good tutorial on how to trace is the '''Frostillicuss vector tutorial''' which can be found [http://www.localarcade.com/4images/details.php?image_id=223 here]. Another tutorial can be found [http://frank05.critter.net/vector.html here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Auto trace tools=&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;Labour intensive? Time consuming? Why can't a computer do this!&amp;quot;, I hear you ask. Well, it's a very good question. First, there ''are'' tools that can trace images for you. These tools produce various results, ranging from crap to slightly usable. The main reason is this: context. Humans can make out what a shape is supposed to be even if it is abstract or fuzzy. A few white, blue and black blotches can look like an eye for humans because the context (a face) is there. A computer will still interpret those blotches, well, as blotches. The vectors it produces will be more or less accurate renditions of blotches and will remain so as the vectors are enlarged. A human artist can make these blotches into a vectorised image of an eye.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The best autotraced vectors are produced if the sourcematerial is either high contrast and low details, or of very high resolution with distinct areas of colours.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A short list of trace software:&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://autotrace.sourceforge.net/ AutoTrace]&lt;br /&gt;
*Inkscape&lt;br /&gt;
*Potrace&lt;br /&gt;
*[http://xmailserver.org/davide.html Ras2Vec] &lt;br /&gt;
*Adobe Illustrator&lt;br /&gt;
*Easy Trace&lt;br /&gt;
*Macromedia FreeHand&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
See also [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raster_to_vector Raster to vector Wikipedia article].&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Applying_CPOs&amp;diff=2809</id>
		<title>Applying CPOs</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Applying_CPOs&amp;diff=2809"/>
		<updated>2006-03-17T20:08:14Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Before you even think about applying a control panel covering to you control panel, there are a few things you should know; proper use of an x-acto blade, how to line up the holes on your CP with those on a pre-printed overlay, and proper adhesive techniques. Most of it's pretty easy. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=How to use an exacto.=&lt;br /&gt;
Duh.. right? Maybe not. It's easy to ruin a $40 CPO with an errant cut. Using your exacto the right way may save you some time and cash. Always use a new blade every time you do a new CPO. If you feel like you nicked some metal, concrete or a screw... put a new blade on while you're cutting the CPO. They're cheap, and they need to be absolutely razor sharp to get a great cut. Also, it's better to make several light cuts than 1 deep cut. Using lots of pressure is a good way to miss and overshoot the cut, especially when doing a circle. Using 1 light cut to begin breaking the fibers apart on the CPO, and then successive light cuts to finish it up is the best way to execute a perfect cut. Generally where perfection matters, making a series of about 5-15 light, light cuts, rather than 1 through and through cut may take a bit more time, but will generally provide a better cut. Plus if you over shoot once, it's easy to correct on successive cuts, without the mistake being super obvious.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=How to line up the holes on your printed cp with your control panel =&lt;br /&gt;
The best method is to get your CPO printed, and then use the registration marks (little x's in the middle of the blank button areas) or the button / joystick center points as guides for cutting your contol panel. you can lay the CPO on top of your wood or metal blank, and use any type of scratching or poking devise to put drill points on your control panel. Once you've drilled your CP, you can easily align the holes on your CPO with the holes on the CP. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are going to send a custom CPO design to a printer and you already cut your control panel, you can, a. recut the control panel to match your design, b. do a low-res scan of your control panel and move the holes on your CPO design around to match, or c. take tons of measurements of your control panel, and adjust the holes on your CP design to match up with those measurements, print out a low res version to confirm the design is indeed correct. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Heating Helps =&lt;br /&gt;
Heating up your CPO with a hairdryer or heatgun if you know how to use it sparingly, will help the material lay flat, bend around corners, stretch and flatten better than the material at room temperature. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Staples, tacks &amp;amp; adhesive =&lt;br /&gt;
Use staples or carpet tacks to help hold a control panel overlay in place while the adhesive is drying. This will ensure that your CPO does not come up, especially if you applied it over tightly angled corners. Use a light to medium amount of adhesive. You want the material tacky, not wet, to insure that it dries in a timely manner, and will not shift while it's drying, If you used staples, a light amount of adhesive will have no problem keeping your CPO down forever. Spray adhesive like 3M Super 77 works fine. Using a brush applied adhesive may provide a little more glue than you need. Photo mount adhesive is not recommended, as it is not meant for permanent fixed adhesion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Printed Vinyl Overlays =&lt;br /&gt;
If you have purchased a CPO from ebay, a reseller, arcade auction, and are ready to apply it to your control panel, you can apply it like so; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1. If your CP is wood, and the edges are sharp, use a hasp to slightly round off edges of your CP on all sides. &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
2. Make sure your holes are already drilled, any necessary mounting plates are installed&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3. Remove any extra material from your CPO so it only overlap's the CP on all sides by a few inches. You may want to cut the overlay almost flush with the sides so that there is no overlap on the sides. Make sure you have material overlapping the front &amp;amp; back, however. &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
4. Make sure you have tiny guide holes cut in your CPO so that you can easily align the CP holes. &lt;br /&gt;
5. Lay CPO face down on flat, smooth surface. If it is vinyl, or laminated paper, you may want to heat it up slightly with a hair dryer before continuing. If it happens to be a simple sticker, heating up should not be necessary&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
6. Spray a light-medium amount of glue or spray-adhesive to the underside of the CPO.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
7. Line up CP holes with CPO guilde markes.Lay the CP face down on the exposed underside of the CPO. &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
8. Wrap 1 side of the CPO around the back / bottom of the CP. (make sure to fold the corners in.)&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
9. Staple or carpet tack that 1 side. &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
10. Grab opposite side of the CPO, stretch slightly, wrap around front side, staple (make sure to fold the corners in before you staple). &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
11. Stretch sides (if you did not already cut them flush) slightly and wrap around to bottom of CP, fold corners in, staple (Make sure top is smooth, wrinkle free first.)&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
12. Let glue dry. &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
13. Use new blade on x-acto knife to cut holes in CPO... you can start with holes a bit smaller than they need to be... you can always cut more off, but you sure can't add more if it's gone. Your buttons, joystick dust washers, and spinners will overlap the CPO just a bit, so your cuts don't have to be perfect. Cuts around your trackball WILL be exposed, so if you have a trackball, you want to make sure that cut is perfect. &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= Vinyl / Pleather Overlays =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can use inexpensive, off-the-shelf vinyl/pleather to cover your control panel, for a total cost of less than $8. Here are steps to guide you through the process of applying a vinyl overlay; &lt;br /&gt;
{| align=right&lt;br /&gt;
| [[image:vinyl_back.jpg|thumb|100px|CPO Back]]&lt;br /&gt;
| [[image:vinyl_front.jpg|thumb|100px|CPO Front]]&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
1. Go to fabric store, by cheap &amp;amp; supple vinyl, usually $3.50 to $7.00 per yard. 1 Yard of material is enough to cover at least 2 control panels. &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
2. If your CP is wood, and the edges are sharp, use a hasp to slightly round off edges of your CP on all sides. &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
3. Make sure your holes are already drilled, any necessary mounting plates are installed&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
4. Cut vinyl to overlap CP on all sides by a few inches. &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
5. Lay vinyl face down. You may want to heat it up slightly with a hair dryer before continuing. &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
6. Spray a light-medium amount of glue or spray-adhesive to the underside of the vinyl.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
7. lay the CP face down on the exposed underside of the vinyl.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
8. Wrap 1 side of the vinyl around the back / bottom of the CP. (make sure to fold the corners in.)&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
9. Staple or carpet tack that 1 side. &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
10. Grab opposite side of the vinyl, stretch slightly, wrap around front side, staple (make sure to fold the corners in before you staple). &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
11. Stretch ends slightly and wrap around to bottom of CP, fold corners in, staple (Make sure top is smooth, wrinkle free first.)&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
12. Let glue dry. &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
13. Use new blade on x-acto knife to cut holes in vinyl... you can start with holes a bit smaller than they need to be... you can always cut more off, but you sure can't add more if it's gone. Your buttons, joystick dust washers, and spinners will overlap the vinyl just a bit, so your cuts don't have to be perfect. Cuts around your trackball WILL be exposed, so if you have a trackball, you want to make sure that cut is perfect. &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Restoring_%26_Recreating_Artwork&amp;diff=2808</id>
		<title>Restoring &amp; Recreating Artwork</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Restoring_%26_Recreating_Artwork&amp;diff=2808"/>
		<updated>2006-03-17T20:07:47Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Cleanup}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Restoring=&lt;br /&gt;
==Recover artwork that has been painted over==&lt;br /&gt;
Many cabinets are refitted with new circuit boards to play different games. Some manufacturers supplied new [[marquee]]s etc. others used a cabinet with a generic design. In many cases however the circuit boards were replaced and the cabinet was repainted in a generic colour.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To remove the layer of paint make careful use of a heatgun and a scraper. Be aware that sometimes the paint has been soaked in too much that the original layer of artwork is destroyed.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Creating_Your_Own_Art_From_Scratch&amp;diff=2807</id>
		<title>Creating Your Own Art From Scratch</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Creating_Your_Own_Art_From_Scratch&amp;diff=2807"/>
		<updated>2006-03-17T20:07:31Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Cleanup}}&lt;br /&gt;
'''More information to come''' We should add a little information about applications, resources, pics of &amp;quot;scratch&amp;quot; theme cabs. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
= How to be a good designer =&lt;br /&gt;
Good design is a little science, a little art. If you have any question about how to create great art for a cabinet, just take a look at the classics. Defender, Joust, Ms Pac Man all have themes that are very cohesive, creative and have an extremely polished appearance. Some of the later conversion cabinet kits weren't themed as well, and they look pale in comparison. To make sure that your cabinet theme looks like it was created by a pro, try to take some lessons from those classic designs. There are no hard and fast rules, but the following are good general guides to keep in mind&lt;br /&gt;
* Keep each piece cohesive with the rest. The marquee, control panel, side art, and cabinet paint job should look like they belong together. &lt;br /&gt;
** Use matching colors. A tool like [http://www.easyrgb.com/harmonies.php Easy RGB] can give you suggestions of matching colors.&lt;br /&gt;
** Repeat the same logo or characters across each of your pieces. &lt;br /&gt;
** Use similar stylistic elements on each piece. If you use a blue border with a drop shadow, use that on another piece. &lt;br /&gt;
** People tend to consider images / elements presented together in groups of three or more as themes. It's hard to make an association with just two or less items. If you put red on a marquee, blue on your side art, green on your bezel, and purple on your CPO, your cab is going to look a bit disjointed. A red CPO with a blue marquee, blue sideart, and blue bezel might look striking, however. &lt;br /&gt;
* Limit your font choices to 1 or 2&lt;br /&gt;
** Use a [[display font]] for titles or logos, and regular fonts like Helvetica, Universe, Futura, Garamond, or even Arial and Times (if you must) for any instructional copy. Make instructional copy easy to read. It doesn't have to be big, but clear enough to read. If it's not clear enough to read, then just leave it off. &lt;br /&gt;
** On Marquees, your marquee title should use up the majority of space in most instances. Filling up a marquee with a bunch of characters and some tiny, wispy text is going to look really weak, and un-arcade like. Most cabinet titles you'll see on real machines take up the majority of space with characters forming around the borders, in the background, or snaking through the lettering. Bombastic... make the text part  of the design, make it larger than life, make it speak for the cabinet in more ways than simple words can convey. &lt;br /&gt;
* Feel free to overlay boxes, lines, shapes, little symbols, onto any photos or images you might be using. Integrate the image into the rest of your theme. &lt;br /&gt;
* Don't feel that you need to fill all of the space. Smart use of whitespace can do wonders. &lt;br /&gt;
* Keep things balanced. If you add images to the left side of the marquee, you may want to put some stylistic elements or another image on the right to hold everything together. Not a hard and fast rule, but something to try out. &lt;br /&gt;
* Keep your buttons, joysticks, and accessories in mind. Before buying bright green t-molding, make sure it will make sense with your theme. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When you're done with your design, you may want to take some time before rushing out to get it printed. &lt;br /&gt;
* Print out a full size, low-res mockup (even on multiple pieces of paper) and live with it on your cab for a few days. &lt;br /&gt;
* Ask others for their honest opinion and expect some harsh comments. Request criticism. &lt;br /&gt;
** Press for real opinions, tell them you are asking for criticism to make it better. You can always ignore the comments, but the information you glean may be priceless. &lt;br /&gt;
** Don't be hurt by honest criticism. Everyone has differences of opinion. Hearing criticism can help you firm up your own opinions, you can discover how you really feel. &lt;br /&gt;
** A simple &amp;quot;I like it&amp;quot; does not mean your design is great. It means you have nice friends. When pressed, even your dear old grandmother may have some criticism stored up. &lt;br /&gt;
*When you are done with your design, look at it in a mirror. You'll be amazed at the new perspective you can get from looking at a reversed image... it can help you step back from your own ideas.&lt;br /&gt;
*ALWAYS, always, always, use spell check, check the spelling yourself, and and ask someone else to check it. You don't want to spend $40 on a marquee with a typo.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=See also=&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Graphics software]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Vector tracing]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Overview_%26_Options_to_Consider&amp;diff=2806</id>
		<title>Overview &amp; Options to Consider</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Overview_%26_Options_to_Consider&amp;diff=2806"/>
		<updated>2006-03-17T20:06:58Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: corrected minor formatting errors&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Adding graphics to your cabinet can transform it from an oversized PC case into a functional piece of arcade artwork. It's the final touch that can make or break a great cabinet. The right choice of artwork and details can make a generic cabinet look simply amazing, while poorly done artwork options can make the most inventive cabinet design look dull. Though it's easy to overlook this area of cabinet building, it should be considered a crucial final step in creating your personal piece of arcade history. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are generally 5 main approaches to designing the look of your cabinet that you may want to consider early in the planning phase of your cabinet. Each has drawbacks, and each requires varying degrees of skill to execute. Find detailed descriptions below.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
More information to come; &lt;br /&gt;
=Restoration graphics=&lt;br /&gt;
One of the most straitforward methods of adding some pizzaz to your cabinet is to use reproduction artwork based on your favorite game. There are many distinctive cabinets that have been released over the years, Pac-Man, Galaga, Defender (all of the Williams cabinets, really) for which artwork is still reproduced by reputable dealers and readily available. If you choose to use repro art there are a few things you need to consider; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#'''cost of reproduction graphics''' Usually bezels, marquees, and control panel artwork are usually fairly inexpensive and easily available, usually in the range of $10-$50 each. Side art is usually more expensive, running from $50-$300 for a complete set.&lt;br /&gt;
#'''availability of repro artwork (if you are interested in something a little more rare it may be difficult to find everything)'''If your favorite game is Ms. Pac Man you can easily find the art for sale online, at an auction or on eBay for a reasonable price (not necessarily cheap, though) If your favorite game happened to be [http://www.macmame.net/klov/defnder3.html Defender 3] chances are you're not going to easily find repro or N.O.S (new old-stock) to use on your cab. If you're really restoring a cabinet, it may be worth the wait to find something to complete your rare vintage cab. If you aren't restoring, just pick something else cool... at least that way your cabinet will look good while you're trying to find the rare stuff. &lt;br /&gt;
#'''accuracy of available reproduction artwork'''While most reproduction houses have high quality artwork available, you may want to investigate the quality &amp;amp; reputation a little bit before you lay down your hard earned cash. Ask questions about the vendor &amp;amp; about the specific piece of repro art at places like [http://groups.google.com/group/rec.games.video.arcade.collecting?lnk=lr&amp;amp;hl=en RGVAC] or in the [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/board,13.0.html artwork section of BYOAC.] In my past experience of dealing with repro art I have occasionally been dissatisfied with the material thickness, detail, and color of various pieces from various vendors. In many instances you will have a tough time getting your money back, so it's best to ask your questions first. If you really know what you want, you may find that repro art does not accurately capture proper color, appliqué (foil, embossing) detail, material (smooth, rough, textured,) thickness, strength, or opacity (in the case of marquees or bezels.) Many repro dealers and repro artwork sites may not have access to pristine NOS art to sample when they create repros and their printing method may not capture the original color (like Pac Man yellow) so you may have to settle for &amp;quot;pretty good&amp;quot; in some cases unless you are looking for absolute restoration style accuracy. In that case, buy NOS if you can find it. &lt;br /&gt;
#'''difficulty of application of the artwork.'''In most cases adding artwork should be fairly simple for the average person. Most of it involves the use of adhesives and patience. Many Williams machines use stenciled paint for side and front art, however, and accurate reproduction requires some skill, equipment, and practice. If you don't have the patience to spend days doing the necessary prep &amp;amp; execution required to paint with stencils, you may want to purchase repro stickers instead. If you have absolutely zero patience, you may want to avoid buying large pieces of full side-art stickers (like Centipede) as well. Applying very large stickers requires some skill to reduce bubbles and wrinkles when applying the art. Marquees, correctly sized bezels, and CPOs are fairly easy to apply and the average person should not have a problem.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Resto-mod graphics=&lt;br /&gt;
{| align=right&lt;br /&gt;
| valign=&amp;quot;top&amp;quot;|&lt;br /&gt;
[[image:defendercade.jpg|thumb|100px|Defender-Style Marquee]]&lt;br /&gt;
 [[image:pacmamea.jpg|thumb|100px|1Uparcade.com's Pacmamea]]&lt;br /&gt;
 |[[image:defmod.jpg|thumb|100px|Defender Control Panel modded for more controls]]&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
Resto-mod is basically anything that is based on a classic design, but does not fully reproduce the original design. There are a few reasons to choose the resto-mod route; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#'''Cost''' It's cheaper to just put a Defender marquee and control panel on your cabinet than it is to add bezel, side and front art as well. A marquee and CPO might cost a total of $70, while the full kit might cost $200 to $300. &lt;br /&gt;
#'''Personal touches''' &amp;quot;Dee Fender,&amp;quot; &amp;quot;LeeVious,&amp;quot; &amp;quot;Jim's Pac Man,&amp;quot; marquee titles all of questionable taste... but real examples. Each display a little of the personality of the owner. &lt;br /&gt;
#'''Making a statement''' Many people want their machine to be seen as more than a just a box for ONE game. Defendercade, Pacmamea, Hyper-Galaxian. Each marquee title implies that the cabinet is more than just a simple arcade classic. &lt;br /&gt;
#'''Physical differences''' Different sizes of cabinets, different shapes, different configurations of controls on the control panel are a few reasons that physical differences may require you to modify the art of a classic design. For instance, If you love the art from Galaga, but have a generic Dynamo cab, you might have to alter the art a little bit to fit the different cabinet shape.  If you are building a Defender shaped cabinet, but want to use a trackball and spinner in addition to the standard defender buttons, you will have to make a few changes to the original defender CPO design. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Resto-mod can be a great shortcut to making a cool cabinet, without some of the cost and complexity involved in fully reproducing the original design. If you aren't careful though, your cabinet can also end up looking cheap and boring, with the art obviously a silly afterthought. Slapping a Galaxian marquee on your cabinet won't in itself make your box look great. A well thought out theme based on a classic design, however, can have some striking results. Great resto-mod designs capture the spirit of the original theme blending the changes perfectly with original art, while adding a dimension of uniqueness, rather than looking like pale imitators.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Original theme graphics=&lt;br /&gt;
{| align=right&lt;br /&gt;
| valign=&amp;quot;top&amp;quot;|&lt;br /&gt;
[[image:heavymetal.jpg|thumb|100px|Heavy Metal Cabinet by...]]&lt;br /&gt;
| valign=&amp;quot;top&amp;quot;|&lt;br /&gt;
[[image:potter.jpg|thumb|100px|Hogwarts Cabinet by Nannuu]]&lt;br /&gt;
| valign=&amp;quot;top&amp;quot;|&lt;br /&gt;
[[image:paranoids1.jpg|thumb|100px|Space Paranoids Cabinet by Jarrett]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
The most creative and striking cabinets that you'll find are well done original themed cabinets. Executing the creation and design of your own personal themed cabinet can be one of the most difficult methods of adding artwork to your cabinet. The payoffs are huge however, you'll have a great looking cab, a certified point of interest in your game room, and [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Martin_Prince infinite hit points.] Creating your own art can be a costly, time consuming and technically difficult option, so you may wan to consider the following before you begin your theme;&lt;br /&gt;
#Will your theme look good in five years? You don't want to get stuck with a cabinet that's as painful to look at as a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Faster_Pussycat faster pussycat] tattoo.&lt;br /&gt;
# If your theme is going to be based on pop culture stuff (like sports teams, movies, or cartoons) can you find enough [[high resolution]] artwork to cover a marquee, control panel and side art? &lt;br /&gt;
# If you have a completely original theme, do you realistically have the time and skill to create artwork from scratch? &lt;br /&gt;
#Do you have the correct [[design applications]] to create your art? &lt;br /&gt;
#If you are creating side art, you may want to shop around the cost of printing full size side art before you begin. It may be expensive, or even impossible to get art printed large enough to fit your full sized cabinet. You may have to make some sacrifices. &lt;br /&gt;
#If your concept is awesome, would it be worth a few hundred $$$ to pay somebody to create it for you? You might even find a friend or an art student to give you a little help for free. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It's easy for a custom theme to become an unnattractive hodge podge if you're not careful. Planning is key. Choose your theme and do your best to stick to your theme with each piece that you create. If you get tired of the theme while doing a specific piece, don't change gears... it's probably best to abandon the entire theme if you're already sick of it. Just because you have a cool marquee design, but can't think of anything else for the sides or CPO doesn't mean you should go ahead and have the marquee printed. It might be better to choose something else.  Before you start your theme, create a budget for each piece you would like to create (cost of a custom CPO, marquee, side art) add at least 15-20% on top of that cost to cover shipping, and any tools and miscellaneous parts for attaching and hacking... make sure you'll have enough dough to complete the full theme. You should price out different options with different printers. If you can't get a quote, chances are that what you're looking for is either inaccessible or prohibitevely expensie. Ask questions about the materials and printing techniques if you have any questions. You want to ensure that your art will look good, and last through lots of abuse. If you have guests... it WILL get some abuse. If you have enough cash and the perfect theme, then it's time to begin the design. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you'd like a few suggestions on design, head over to the [[Creating Your Own Art From Scratch]] page.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Physical design=&lt;br /&gt;
If you are more into tools &amp;amp; gadgets than you are into graphics &amp;amp; design programs, you may be more interested in building a cabinet that derives its visual interest from the materials and objects incorporated into it. The options are endless, its just up to you and your imagination. Metals, neon, chrome, velure, lexan, and varnished wood, cardboard, have all been used as materials for cabinet building by clever enthusiasts. How far can you push your design? Take a look at some of the examples for inspiration.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{|&lt;br /&gt;
| valign=&amp;quot;top&amp;quot;|&lt;br /&gt;
[[image:knievel_cab1.jpg|thumb|100px|Knievel's Neon MAME cabinet]]&lt;br /&gt;
| valign=&amp;quot;top&amp;quot;|&lt;br /&gt;
[[image:lexanclearmspac.jpg|thumb|100px|Clear Lexan Ms. PacMan]]&lt;br /&gt;
| valign=&amp;quot;top&amp;quot;|&lt;br /&gt;
[[image:armoire.jpg|thumb|100px|Armoire machine]]&lt;br /&gt;
| valign=&amp;quot;top&amp;quot;|&lt;br /&gt;
[[image:systemseven.jpg|thumb|100px|System Seven Machine]]&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Hodge Podge=&lt;br /&gt;
Hodge Podge is a nice way of describing cabinet art that has had little planning, and little in the way of effort at applying any art. If you hodge podge the art, you will find that the results rarely turn out to make a powerful statement. If you really have little time to think about the art, it may be best to simply paint the cabinet, and maybe add some colored t-molding to add a little pop. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
How you design your art is a matter of taste, that's true. Regardless of your particular taste, you should make a plan before you begin applying art. All of the techniques I mention below '''can''' be part of a well done cabinet. The techniques used in a hodge-podge cabinet aren't the real problem. Lack of thought will be the true failure. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can always redo your cabinet, so feel free to try things out, experiment, cut corners if you're trying to save money. Be honest with yourself when you are done though. Solicit the input of friends and family to see what they think, evaluate the quality of the finished product. If others dislike your cabinet but you like the look of it, then defend your decisions as a matter of taste. If you agree with them, consider planning a new design, and be prepared to take some time with the execution. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It's understandeable that you may want to immediately get to playing your games rather than working on the art. If that's truly the case it's probably best to do next to nothing with the art at all, rather than scraping together whatever you have handy to adorn your cabinet as cheaply and quickly as possible. Examples of this style involve a combination of mismatched colors, mixed themes, decoupage using cutouts from magazines or images printed from a printer and pasted or laquered onto a cabinet, contact paper or wallpaper, or movie posters adhered to the cabinet. Poor use of materials is also a hallmark of a poorly done cabinet, the appearance of extra glue, poorly made cuts with scissors, marred stickers or paper, irregular lines, hand written type will reduce the overal greatness of your otherwise worthy cabinet. This may sound laughable, but it is fairly common. If you are going to the trouble of building a cabinet from scratch, or buying hundreds of dollars in parts to restore a cabinet, the finished product should look professional. Don't let the art be the weak link. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/board,13.0.html The BYOAC Artwork Pages] are a great place to ask questions about design programs, general design, production issues, vendors, and to request a critique of your artwork. A few suggestions by interested invividuals may go a long way to helping you improve on your themed artwork. Don't hesitate to ask for help, it's encouraged.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Help:Contents&amp;diff=2805</id>
		<title>Help:Contents</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Help:Contents&amp;diff=2805"/>
		<updated>2006-03-17T20:06:06Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: /* Wiki Editing Basics */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Wiki Editing Basics ==&lt;br /&gt;
The following are a few basic wiki editing techniques that you may find useful. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#To edit any WIKI page, login/register and click &amp;quot;edit&amp;quot; at the top of a page. &lt;br /&gt;
#While editing a page, use &amp;lt;nowiki&amp;gt;= Insert Text =&amp;lt;/nowiki&amp;gt; to add a new page topic and page navigation item. &lt;br /&gt;
#Use &amp;lt;nowiki&amp;gt;== Insert Text ==&amp;lt;/nowiki&amp;gt; to to make a subtopic on a page. Continue inserting = marks to make subsections of the subsections. &lt;br /&gt;
#To create a new page, or link to another wiki page use &amp;lt;nowiki&amp;gt;[[Insert Page Name Here]]&amp;lt;/nowiki&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#To add a thumbnail image to a page with a caption and a link to a larger image, use &amp;lt;nowiki&amp;gt;[[Image:Pic_an_image_name.jpg|thumb|caption_text|80px|right|]]&amp;lt;/nowiki&amp;gt; Once you've done that, go back to the page you edited, click on the name of the image, which will take you to an upload page. Upload the image, and you're done. Following similar steps, adding &amp;lt;nowiki&amp;gt;[[Image:Pic_an_image_name.jpg|left|70px|]]&amp;lt;/nowiki&amp;gt; will simply add a small picture without a large size image, or caption.&lt;br /&gt;
#To add another column to your page add the pipe character&amp;lt;nowiki&amp;gt; | &amp;lt;/nowiki&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
#If you like what someone else did, just click the &amp;quot;edit&amp;quot; button and take a look at their formatting, that's one of the simplest ways to figure things out. &lt;br /&gt;
#Use the &amp;lt;nowiki&amp;gt; &amp;amp;lt;br&amp;amp;gt; &amp;lt;/nowiki&amp;gt;tag to add a line break if you need it. The XML friendly &amp;lt;nowiki&amp;gt; &amp;amp;lt;br /&amp;amp;gt; &amp;lt;/nowiki&amp;gt; is not necessary as the WIKI system produces this code.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you would like someone to help you clean up your page, add images, content or fomatting, add the &amp;lt;nowiki&amp;gt;{{Cleanup}}&amp;lt;/nowiki&amp;gt; tag to the page. It will be automatically labeled as requiring cleanup, and will be added to the cleanup notice page.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Wiki Formatting Links ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To be expanded. Until then:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Metawiki [http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Contents#For_editors help page for editors]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Metawiki [http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Contents#For_readers help page for readers]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Disclaimer templates==&lt;br /&gt;
The BYOAC wiki has a few disclaimer templates available. Take a look [[Help:Disclaimer_templates|here]] to read which ones and how to use them.&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;center&amp;gt;Back to the [[Main_Page]]&amp;lt;/center&amp;gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Spinners_and_Dials&amp;diff=2804</id>
		<title>Spinners and Dials</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Spinners_and_Dials&amp;diff=2804"/>
		<updated>2006-03-17T20:04:15Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: added FAQ. Needs more work.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Cleanup}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=What is a Spinner?=&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You might remember the spinner from games like Tempest and Arkanoid.  The player turns a knob to move the on-screen character.  But what's going on behind the scenes; what's that knob attached to?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Underneath the control panel, the shaft comes down from the knob above.  Mounted on the shaft, is an optical encoder wheel- a flat disk with notches cut around the outside edge.  These notches pass though a set of infra-red optics, that detect the notches as they spin by.  There are two sets of optics, spaced such that they see the notches spin by just a little bit out of sync.  The combined signal from both of these optics tells the game which direction the disk is turning, and how fast.  This is also how a trackball works, as well as a ball-type PC mouse.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are buying or building a working spinner for your cabinet, you will need the Spinner (the mechanical part,) the optics(the part that watches the spinning,) and the optical encoder (the part that sends info to the computer.) If a manufacturer advertises &amp;quot;USB Connectivity&amp;quot; that generally means that it is an all in one solution, and no additional parts are required. Otherwise, you'll find that optics are generally included, but an encoder is not. In the rare occurence that your spinner does not have optics included, they can be built with parts from your local electronic store, or you can build them based off of a [[Optical_Encoders#Mouse_Hack|mouse hack.]] If the unit does not ship with an optical encoder, you can purchase one from an aftermarket seller. You can find out more about [[Optical_Encoders|optical encoders here.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Spinner Varieties=&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Tempest- Fast spinning lightweight spinner, which is very popular with arcade enthusiassts. It has 72 teeth on the encoder wheel, with nylon upper and lower bearings on the shaft.  This was the model for the Oscar Vortex aftermarket spinner.&lt;br /&gt;
#Arkanoid- The &amp;quot;geared&amp;quot; spinner.  Rather than mounting the encoder wheel directly to the shaft, the Arkanoid spinner used two sets of gears between the knob and the encoder wheel, to make the spinner extremely sensitive.  While the encoder wheel only has 24 notches, the gearing causes 486 notches to pass through the optics for every turn of the knob!  Due to the lightweight and friction from the gearing, the Arkanoid spinner stops the instant you take your hand off the knob. &lt;br /&gt;
#Paddle- '''ADD CONTENT HERE'''&lt;br /&gt;
#Discs of Tron ''Push/Pull''- This spinner used a giant 128-notch encoder wheel with a push / pull switch feature built into the spindle shaft. When the player pulled up or down on the spinner, a leafswitch was activated.  This was used to control the high / low aim of the disc in later levels of the game. Zwackery also used a Push/Pull spinner, and Forgotten Worlds used a push only (no pull) spinner. Oscar Controls marketed a Push/Pull spinner with a slightly different design, and a smaller 72 notch encoder wheel, but it is no longer available for purchase. The Oscar V2 had a Push option, and a Pull kit was rumored to be in the works before Oscar Controls closed down.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Spinner Brands=&lt;br /&gt;
#[http://oscarcontrols.com/ Oscar Controls]- Was a popular manufacturer of spinners for the hobbyist market until recently. Several models were produced over the years, including the Model One, Pro, Vortex, Push/Pull, and V2. These spinners did not enclude an encoder and required connection to an [[Optical_Encoders#Opti-PAC|Opti-Pac]] or to a [[Optical_Encoders#Mouse_Hack|mouse hack]]. &lt;br /&gt;
#[http://www.slikstik.com/spinfeat.htm SlikStik]- The Tornado is billed as the &amp;quot;longest spinning&amp;quot; spinner on the market, the Tornado is currently the spinner that's been on the market the longest. With an extra-small footprint, and dual-bearing design, the Tornado is very well made.  Several knob options are also available.  The Tornado comes with it's own USB or PS/2 interface.  Plans to sell the Tornado with a plain-jane optic card have also been announced.&lt;br /&gt;
#[http://GroovyGameGear.com GroovyGameGear]- The TurboTwist is new to the market. Like the SlikStik Tornado, the TurboTwist also has a small footprint and a dual-bearing design.  The TurboTwist has an extra-high resolution encoder wheel, and comes with it's own USB or PS/2 Opti-Wiz interface.  The interface can be configured to put the spinner on the X, Y, or Z mouse axis, and will control other optic devices on the remaining two axes, such as a trackball, or additional spinners/steering wheels/optical rotary joysticks.  A plain-jane optic card version has also been announced.&lt;br /&gt;
#[http://ArcadeGames4U.com ArcadeGames4U]- The cyclone is also new to the market. It has a dual-bearing design, with a lower resolution encoder wheel.  The Cyclone ships with an optic card, but no interface.  &lt;br /&gt;
#Build Your Own!- Many users have build their own spinners from whatever parts they had available- Hard drive bearings, skateboard bearings, whatever.  Use your imagination, or use this guide created by Nathan Strum. [http://arcadecontrols.com/files/Miscellaneous/spinner.pdf Download the PDF guide here] for building your own. '''ADD LINK TO VARIOUS DIY ARTICLES ON BYOAC MSG BOARD'''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=FAQs=&lt;br /&gt;
==Two Spinners on a control panel; is it worth it?==&lt;br /&gt;
The answer is an unequivocal ''maybe''. There are several factors to keep in mind when trying to determine whether you should buy and install 2 spinners on your control panel.&lt;br /&gt;
#Budget- Spinners are somewhat expensive. Buying 2 aftermarket spinners with optics will set you back about $80-$160. &lt;br /&gt;
#Software- Can your software support 2 mice at the same time. Make sure you have a version of mame that can support 2 spinners if they're both individual USB units. If you have them both plugged into an [[Optical_Encoders#Opti-PAC|Optipac]] this won't be a problem. &lt;br /&gt;
#Space- Depending on the model, spinners can take up a lot of room under the surface of a control panel. The Oscar Controls Push/Pull spinner was approximately 5.5x6&amp;quot; for instance. Also, the more spinners you have, the less room you may have for other features and joysticks. &lt;br /&gt;
#Games- Most importantly, do you like an games that use more than 1 spinner? Below is a (non-definitive) list of dual spinner games &lt;br /&gt;
##Paddle Games&lt;br /&gt;
###Arkanoid Returns&lt;br /&gt;
###Off the Wall (Atari)&lt;br /&gt;
###Off the Wall (Bally Sente)&lt;br /&gt;
###Warlords&lt;br /&gt;
###Pop'n Bounce&lt;br /&gt;
###Plump Pop&lt;br /&gt;
###VS Blok Breaker&lt;br /&gt;
##Flying&lt;br /&gt;
###Blasteroids&lt;br /&gt;
###Two Tigers&lt;br /&gt;
##Driving&lt;br /&gt;
###Super Off Road&lt;br /&gt;
### Super Sprint&lt;br /&gt;
###Championship Super Sprint&lt;br /&gt;
###Bad Lands&lt;br /&gt;
###Ironman Ivan Stewart's Super Off-Road &lt;br /&gt;
###Ironman Stewart's Super Off-Road Track Pack &lt;br /&gt;
###Danny Sullivan's Indy Heat&lt;br /&gt;
## Other&lt;br /&gt;
###Atari 2 player games&lt;br /&gt;
###Puzzloop&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==If I can have only a spinner or a trackball... which should I choose==&lt;br /&gt;
'''insert pro/con arguments here'''&lt;br /&gt;
relevant links in msg board. delete links once the info has been added. &lt;br /&gt;
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=25477.0&lt;br /&gt;
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=37876.0&lt;br /&gt;
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=36036.0&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Spinners_and_Dials&amp;diff=2803</id>
		<title>Spinners and Dials</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Spinners_and_Dials&amp;diff=2803"/>
		<updated>2006-03-17T19:55:57Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: /* What is a Spinner? */ added content&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Cleanup}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=What is a Spinner?=&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You might remember the spinner from games like Tempest and Arkanoid.  The player turns a knob to move the on-screen character.  But what's going on behind the scenes; what's that knob attached to?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Underneath the control panel, the shaft comes down from the knob above.  Mounted on the shaft, is an optical encoder wheel- a flat disk with notches cut around the outside edge.  These notches pass though a set of infra-red optics, that detect the notches as they spin by.  There are two sets of optics, spaced such that they see the notches spin by just a little bit out of sync.  The combined signal from both of these optics tells the game which direction the disk is turning, and how fast.  This is also how a trackball works, as well as a ball-type PC mouse.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are buying or building a working spinner for your cabinet, you will need the Spinner (the mechanical part,) the optics(the part that watches the spinning,) and the optical encoder (the part that sends info to the computer.) If a manufacturer advertises &amp;quot;USB Connectivity&amp;quot; that generally means that it is an all in one solution, and no additional parts are required. Otherwise, you'll find that optics are generally included, but an encoder is not. In the rare occurence that your spinner does not have optics included, they can be built with parts from your local electronic store, or you can build them based off of a [[Optical_Encoders#Mouse_Hack|mouse hack.]] If the unit does not ship with an optical encoder, you can purchase one from an aftermarket seller. You can find out more about [[Optical_Encoders|optical encoders here.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Spinner Varieties=&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Tempest- Fast spinning lightweight spinner, which is very popular with arcade enthusiassts. It has 72 teeth on the encoder wheel, with nylon upper and lower bearings on the shaft.  This was the model for the Oscar Vortex aftermarket spinner.&lt;br /&gt;
#Arkanoid- The &amp;quot;geared&amp;quot; spinner.  Rather than mounting the encoder wheel directly to the shaft, the Arkanoid spinner used two sets of gears between the knob and the encoder wheel, to make the spinner extremely sensitive.  While the encoder wheel only has 24 notches, the gearing causes 486 notches to pass through the optics for every turn of the knob!  Due to the lightweight and friction from the gearing, the Arkanoid spinner stops the instant you take your hand off the knob. &lt;br /&gt;
#Paddle- '''ADD CONTENT HERE'''&lt;br /&gt;
#Discs of Tron ''Push/Pull''- This spinner used a giant 128-notch encoder wheel with a push / pull switch feature built into the spindle shaft. When the player pulled up or down on the spinner, a leafswitch was activated.  This was used to control the high / low aim of the disc in later levels of the game. Zwackery also used a Push/Pull spinner, and Forgotten Worlds used a push only (no pull) spinner. Oscar Controls marketed a Push/Pull spinner with a slightly different design, and a smaller 72 notch encoder wheel, but it is no longer available for purchase. The Oscar V2 had a Push option, and a Pull kit was rumored to be in the works before Oscar Controls closed down.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Spinner Brands=&lt;br /&gt;
#[http://oscarcontrols.com/ Oscar Controls]- Was a popular manufacturer of spinners for the hobbyist market until recently. Several models were produced over the years, including the Model One, Pro, Vortex, Push/Pull, and V2. These spinners did not enclude an encoder and required connection to an [[Optical_Encoders#Opti-PAC|Opti-Pac]] or to a [[Optical_Encoders#Mouse_Hack|mouse hack]]. &lt;br /&gt;
#[http://www.slikstik.com/spinfeat.htm SlikStik]- The Tornado is billed as the &amp;quot;longest spinning&amp;quot; spinner on the market, the Tornado is currently the spinner that's been on the market the longest. With an extra-small footprint, and dual-bearing design, the Tornado is very well made.  Several knob options are also available.  The Tornado comes with it's own USB or PS/2 interface.  Plans to sell the Tornado with a plain-jane optic card have also been announced.&lt;br /&gt;
#[http://GroovyGameGear.com GroovyGameGear]- The TurboTwist is new to the market. Like the SlikStik Tornado, the TurboTwist also has a small footprint and a dual-bearing design.  The TurboTwist has an extra-high resolution encoder wheel, and comes with it's own USB or PS/2 Opti-Wiz interface.  The interface can be configured to put the spinner on the X, Y, or Z mouse axis, and will control other optic devices on the remaining two axes, such as a trackball, or additional spinners/steering wheels/optical rotary joysticks.  A plain-jane optic card version has also been announced.&lt;br /&gt;
#[http://ArcadeGames4U.com ArcadeGames4U]- The cyclone is also new to the market. It has a dual-bearing design, with a lower resolution encoder wheel.  The Cyclone ships with an optic card, but no interface.  &lt;br /&gt;
#Build Your Own!- Many users have build their own spinners from whatever parts they had available- Hard drive bearings, skateboard bearings, whatever.  Use your imagination, or use this guide created by Nathan Strum. [http://arcadecontrols.com/files/Miscellaneous/spinner.pdf Download the PDF guide here] for building your own. '''ADD LINK TO VARIOUS DIY ARTICLES ON BYOAC MSG BOARD'''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Two Spinners on a control panel; is it worth it?=&lt;br /&gt;
The answer is an unequivocal ''maybe''. There are several factors to keep in mind when trying to determine whether you should buy and install 2 spinners on your control panel.&lt;br /&gt;
#Budget- Spinners are somewhat expensive. Buying 2 aftermarket spinners with optics will set you back about $80-$160. &lt;br /&gt;
#Software- Can your software support 2 mice at the same time. Make sure you have a version of mame that can support 2 spinners if they're both individual USB units. If you have them both plugged into an [[Optical_Encoders#Opti-PAC|Optipac]] this won't be a problem. &lt;br /&gt;
#Space- Depending on the model, spinners can take up a lot of room under the surface of a control panel. The Oscar Controls Push/Pull spinner was approximately 5.5x6&amp;quot; for instance. Also, the more spinners you have, the less room you may have for other features and joysticks. &lt;br /&gt;
#Games- Most importantly, do you like an games that use more than 1 spinner? Below is a (non-definitive) list of dual spinner games &lt;br /&gt;
##Paddle Games&lt;br /&gt;
###Arkanoid Returns&lt;br /&gt;
###Off the Wall (Atari)&lt;br /&gt;
###Off the Wall (Bally Sente)&lt;br /&gt;
###Warlords&lt;br /&gt;
###Pop'n Bounce&lt;br /&gt;
###Plump Pop&lt;br /&gt;
###VS Blok Breaker&lt;br /&gt;
##Flying&lt;br /&gt;
###Blasteroids&lt;br /&gt;
###Two Tigers&lt;br /&gt;
##Driving&lt;br /&gt;
###Super Off Road&lt;br /&gt;
### Super Sprint&lt;br /&gt;
###Championship Super Sprint&lt;br /&gt;
###Bad Lands&lt;br /&gt;
###Ironman Ivan Stewart's Super Off-Road &lt;br /&gt;
###Ironman Stewart's Super Off-Road Track Pack &lt;br /&gt;
###Danny Sullivan's Indy Heat&lt;br /&gt;
## Other&lt;br /&gt;
###Atari 2 player games&lt;br /&gt;
###Puzzloop&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Spinners_and_Dials&amp;diff=2802</id>
		<title>Spinners and Dials</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Spinners_and_Dials&amp;diff=2802"/>
		<updated>2006-03-17T19:43:38Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: /* Spinner Brands */ added several links&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Cleanup}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=What is a Spinner?=&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You might remember the spinner from games like Tempest and Arkanoid.  The player turns a knob to move the on-screen character.  But what's going on behind the scenes; what's that knob attached to?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Underneath the control panel, the shaft comes down from the knob above.  Mounted on the shaft, is an optical encoder wheel- a flat disk with notches cut around the outside edge.  These notches pass though a set of infra-red optics, that detect the notches as they spin by.  There are two sets of optics, spaced such that they see the notches spin by just a little bit out of sync.  The combined signal from both of these optics tells the game which direction the disk is turning, and how fast.  This is also how a trackball works, as well as a ball-type PC mouse.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Spinner Varieties=&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Tempest- Fast spinning lightweight spinner, which is very popular with arcade enthusiassts. It has 72 teeth on the encoder wheel, with nylon upper and lower bearings on the shaft.  This was the model for the Oscar Vortex aftermarket spinner.&lt;br /&gt;
#Arkanoid- The &amp;quot;geared&amp;quot; spinner.  Rather than mounting the encoder wheel directly to the shaft, the Arkanoid spinner used two sets of gears between the knob and the encoder wheel, to make the spinner extremely sensitive.  While the encoder wheel only has 24 notches, the gearing causes 486 notches to pass through the optics for every turn of the knob!  Due to the lightweight and friction from the gearing, the Arkanoid spinner stops the instant you take your hand off the knob. &lt;br /&gt;
#Paddle- '''ADD CONTENT HERE'''&lt;br /&gt;
#Discs of Tron ''Push/Pull''- This spinner used a giant 128-notch encoder wheel with a push / pull switch feature built into the spindle shaft. When the player pulled up or down on the spinner, a leafswitch was activated.  This was used to control the high / low aim of the disc in later levels of the game. Zwackery also used a Push/Pull spinner, and Forgotten Worlds used a push only (no pull) spinner. Oscar Controls marketed a Push/Pull spinner with a slightly different design, and a smaller 72 notch encoder wheel, but it is no longer available for purchase. The Oscar V2 had a Push option, and a Pull kit was rumored to be in the works before Oscar Controls closed down.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Spinner Brands=&lt;br /&gt;
#[http://oscarcontrols.com/ Oscar Controls]- Was a popular manufacturer of spinners for the hobbyist market until recently. Several models were produced over the years, including the Model One, Pro, Vortex, Push/Pull, and V2. These spinners did not enclude an encoder and required connection to an [[Optical_Encoders#Opti-PAC|Opti-Pac]] or to a [[Optical_Encoders#Mouse_Hack|mouse hack]]. &lt;br /&gt;
#[http://www.slikstik.com/spinfeat.htm SlikStik]- The Tornado is billed as the &amp;quot;longest spinning&amp;quot; spinner on the market, the Tornado is currently the spinner that's been on the market the longest. With an extra-small footprint, and dual-bearing design, the Tornado is very well made.  Several knob options are also available.  The Tornado comes with it's own USB or PS/2 interface.  Plans to sell the Tornado with a plain-jane optic card have also been announced.&lt;br /&gt;
#[http://GroovyGameGear.com GroovyGameGear]- The TurboTwist is new to the market. Like the SlikStik Tornado, the TurboTwist also has a small footprint and a dual-bearing design.  The TurboTwist has an extra-high resolution encoder wheel, and comes with it's own USB or PS/2 Opti-Wiz interface.  The interface can be configured to put the spinner on the X, Y, or Z mouse axis, and will control other optic devices on the remaining two axes, such as a trackball, or additional spinners/steering wheels/optical rotary joysticks.  A plain-jane optic card version has also been announced.&lt;br /&gt;
#[http://ArcadeGames4U.com ArcadeGames4U]- The cyclone is also new to the market. It has a dual-bearing design, with a lower resolution encoder wheel.  The Cyclone ships with an optic card, but no interface.  &lt;br /&gt;
#Build Your Own!- Many users have build their own spinners from whatever parts they had available- Hard drive bearings, skateboard bearings, whatever.  Use your imagination, or use this guide created by Nathan Strum. [http://arcadecontrols.com/files/Miscellaneous/spinner.pdf Download the PDF guide here] for building your own. '''ADD LINK TO VARIOUS DIY ARTICLES ON BYOAC MSG BOARD'''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Two Spinners on a control panel; is it worth it?=&lt;br /&gt;
The answer is an unequivocal ''maybe''. There are several factors to keep in mind when trying to determine whether you should buy and install 2 spinners on your control panel.&lt;br /&gt;
#Budget- Spinners are somewhat expensive. Buying 2 aftermarket spinners with optics will set you back about $80-$160. &lt;br /&gt;
#Software- Can your software support 2 mice at the same time. Make sure you have a version of mame that can support 2 spinners if they're both individual USB units. If you have them both plugged into an [[Optical_Encoders#Opti-PAC|Optipac]] this won't be a problem. &lt;br /&gt;
#Space- Depending on the model, spinners can take up a lot of room under the surface of a control panel. The Oscar Controls Push/Pull spinner was approximately 5.5x6&amp;quot; for instance. Also, the more spinners you have, the less room you may have for other features and joysticks. &lt;br /&gt;
#Games- Most importantly, do you like an games that use more than 1 spinner? Below is a (non-definitive) list of dual spinner games &lt;br /&gt;
##Paddle Games&lt;br /&gt;
###Arkanoid Returns&lt;br /&gt;
###Off the Wall (Atari)&lt;br /&gt;
###Off the Wall (Bally Sente)&lt;br /&gt;
###Warlords&lt;br /&gt;
###Pop'n Bounce&lt;br /&gt;
###Plump Pop&lt;br /&gt;
###VS Blok Breaker&lt;br /&gt;
##Flying&lt;br /&gt;
###Blasteroids&lt;br /&gt;
###Two Tigers&lt;br /&gt;
##Driving&lt;br /&gt;
###Super Off Road&lt;br /&gt;
### Super Sprint&lt;br /&gt;
###Championship Super Sprint&lt;br /&gt;
###Bad Lands&lt;br /&gt;
###Ironman Ivan Stewart's Super Off-Road &lt;br /&gt;
###Ironman Stewart's Super Off-Road Track Pack &lt;br /&gt;
###Danny Sullivan's Indy Heat&lt;br /&gt;
## Other&lt;br /&gt;
###Atari 2 player games&lt;br /&gt;
###Puzzloop&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Optical_Encoders&amp;diff=2801</id>
		<title>Optical Encoders</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Optical_Encoders&amp;diff=2801"/>
		<updated>2006-03-17T19:41:16Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: added cleanup notice and mouse hack&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Cleanup}}&lt;br /&gt;
Mouse encoders (or Optical encoders) allow the use of a trackball or spinner and offer the functionality of a mouse hack in an easy-to-use form.  They offer several benefits including ease in connecting controls and time savings. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Opti-PAC=&lt;br /&gt;
[[image:optipac.jpg|right|thumb|Opti-PAC]]&lt;br /&gt;
The Opti-PAC allows for easily connecting optical-type arcade control devices including trackballs and spinners to a PC. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Relevant Link: [http://www.ultimarc.com/optipac1.html Ultimarc's Opti-PAC Page]'''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Opti-Wiz=&lt;br /&gt;
[[image:optiwiz.jpg|right|thumb|Opti-Wiz]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Description needed&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Relevant Link:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;[http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;amp;cPath=76_85&amp;amp;products_id=260 GroovyGameGear's Opti-Wiz Page]'''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=ME4=&lt;br /&gt;
[[image:me4.gif|right|thumb|ME4]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Description needed&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Relevant Link: [http://www.hagstromelectronics.com/products/me4.html Hagstrom's ME4 Page]'''&lt;br /&gt;
=Mouse Hack=&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Spinners_and_Dials&amp;diff=2800</id>
		<title>Spinners and Dials</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Spinners_and_Dials&amp;diff=2800"/>
		<updated>2006-03-17T19:32:35Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: /* Spinner Varieties */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Cleanup}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=What is a Spinner?=&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You might remember the spinner from games like Tempest and Arkanoid.  The player turns a knob to move the on-screen character.  But what's going on behind the scenes; what's that knob attached to?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Underneath the control panel, the shaft comes down from the knob above.  Mounted on the shaft, is an optical encoder wheel- a flat disk with notches cut around the outside edge.  These notches pass though a set of infra-red optics, that detect the notches as they spin by.  There are two sets of optics, spaced such that they see the notches spin by just a little bit out of sync.  The combined signal from both of these optics tells the game which direction the disk is turning, and how fast.  This is also how a trackball works, as well as a ball-type PC mouse.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Spinner Varieties=&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Tempest- Fast spinning lightweight spinner, which is very popular with arcade enthusiassts. It has 72 teeth on the encoder wheel, with nylon upper and lower bearings on the shaft.  This was the model for the Oscar Vortex aftermarket spinner.&lt;br /&gt;
#Arkanoid- The &amp;quot;geared&amp;quot; spinner.  Rather than mounting the encoder wheel directly to the shaft, the Arkanoid spinner used two sets of gears between the knob and the encoder wheel, to make the spinner extremely sensitive.  While the encoder wheel only has 24 notches, the gearing causes 486 notches to pass through the optics for every turn of the knob!  Due to the lightweight and friction from the gearing, the Arkanoid spinner stops the instant you take your hand off the knob. &lt;br /&gt;
#Paddle- '''ADD CONTENT HERE'''&lt;br /&gt;
#Discs of Tron ''Push/Pull''- This spinner used a giant 128-notch encoder wheel with a push / pull switch feature built into the spindle shaft. When the player pulled up or down on the spinner, a leafswitch was activated.  This was used to control the high / low aim of the disc in later levels of the game. Zwackery also used a Push/Pull spinner, and Forgotten Worlds used a push only (no pull) spinner. Oscar Controls marketed a Push/Pull spinner with a slightly different design, and a smaller 72 notch encoder wheel, but it is no longer available for purchase. The Oscar V2 had a Push option, and a Pull kit was rumored to be in the works before Oscar Controls closed down.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Spinner Brands=&lt;br /&gt;
#Oscar Controls- Was a manufacturere of spinners to the hobbyist market until recently. Several models were produced over the years, including the Model One, Pro, Vortex, Push/Pull, and V2.&lt;br /&gt;
#SlikStik- Tornado is billed as the &amp;quot;longest spinning&amp;quot; spinner on the market, the Tornado is currently the spinner that's been on the market the longest. With an extra-small footprint, and dual-bearing design, the Tornado is very well made.  Several knob options are also available.  The Tornado comes with it's own USB or PS/2 interface.  Plans to sell the Tornado with a plain-jane optic card have also been announced.&lt;br /&gt;
#GroovyGameGear- The TurboTwist is new to the market. Like the SlikStik Tornado, the TurboTwist also has a small footprint and a dual-bearing design.  The TurboTwist has an extra-high resolution encoder wheel, and comes with it's own USB or PS/2 Opti-Wiz interface.  The interface can be configured to put the spinner on the X, Y, or Z mouse axis, and will control other optic devices on the remaining two axes, such as a trackball, or additional spinners/steering wheels/optical rotary joysticks.  A plain-jane optic card version has also been announced.&lt;br /&gt;
#ArcadeGames4U- The cyclone is also new to the market. It has a dual-bearing design, with a lower resolution encoder wheel.  The Cyclone ships with an optic card, but no interface.  &lt;br /&gt;
#Build Your Own!- Many users have build their own spinners from whatever parts they had available- Hard drive bearings, skateboard bearings, whatever.  Use your imagination, or use this guide created by Nathan Strum. [http://arcadecontrols.com/files/Miscellaneous/spinner.pdf Download the PDF guide here] for building your own.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Two Spinners on a control panel; is it worth it?=&lt;br /&gt;
The answer is an unequivocal ''maybe''. There are several factors to keep in mind when trying to determine whether you should buy and install 2 spinners on your control panel.&lt;br /&gt;
#Budget- Spinners are somewhat expensive. Buying 2 aftermarket spinners with optics will set you back about $80-$160. &lt;br /&gt;
#Software- Can your software support 2 mice at the same time. Make sure you have a version of mame that can support 2 spinners if they're both individual USB units. If you have them both plugged into an [[Optical_Encoders#Opti-PAC|Optipac]] this won't be a problem. &lt;br /&gt;
#Space- Depending on the model, spinners can take up a lot of room under the surface of a control panel. The Oscar Controls Push/Pull spinner was approximately 5.5x6&amp;quot; for instance. Also, the more spinners you have, the less room you may have for other features and joysticks. &lt;br /&gt;
#Games- Most importantly, do you like an games that use more than 1 spinner? Below is a (non-definitive) list of dual spinner games &lt;br /&gt;
##Paddle Games&lt;br /&gt;
###Arkanoid Returns&lt;br /&gt;
###Off the Wall (Atari)&lt;br /&gt;
###Off the Wall (Bally Sente)&lt;br /&gt;
###Warlords&lt;br /&gt;
###Pop'n Bounce&lt;br /&gt;
###Plump Pop&lt;br /&gt;
###VS Blok Breaker&lt;br /&gt;
##Flying&lt;br /&gt;
###Blasteroids&lt;br /&gt;
###Two Tigers&lt;br /&gt;
##Driving&lt;br /&gt;
###Super Off Road&lt;br /&gt;
### Super Sprint&lt;br /&gt;
###Championship Super Sprint&lt;br /&gt;
###Bad Lands&lt;br /&gt;
###Ironman Ivan Stewart's Super Off-Road &lt;br /&gt;
###Ironman Stewart's Super Off-Road Track Pack &lt;br /&gt;
###Danny Sullivan's Indy Heat&lt;br /&gt;
## Other&lt;br /&gt;
###Atari 2 player games&lt;br /&gt;
###Puzzloop&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Spinners_and_Dials&amp;diff=2799</id>
		<title>Spinners and Dials</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Spinners_and_Dials&amp;diff=2799"/>
		<updated>2006-03-17T19:32:17Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: /* Spinner Varieties */ added &amp;quot;paddle&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Cleanup}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=What is a Spinner?=&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You might remember the spinner from games like Tempest and Arkanoid.  The player turns a knob to move the on-screen character.  But what's going on behind the scenes; what's that knob attached to?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Underneath the control panel, the shaft comes down from the knob above.  Mounted on the shaft, is an optical encoder wheel- a flat disk with notches cut around the outside edge.  These notches pass though a set of infra-red optics, that detect the notches as they spin by.  There are two sets of optics, spaced such that they see the notches spin by just a little bit out of sync.  The combined signal from both of these optics tells the game which direction the disk is turning, and how fast.  This is also how a trackball works, as well as a ball-type PC mouse.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Spinner Varieties=&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Tempest- Fast spinning lightweight spinner, which is very popular with arcade enthusiassts. It has 72 teeth on the encoder wheel, with nylon upper and lower bearings on the shaft.  This was the model for the Oscar Vortex aftermarket spinner.&lt;br /&gt;
#Arkanoid- The &amp;quot;geared&amp;quot; spinner.  Rather than mounting the encoder wheel directly to the shaft, the Arkanoid spinner used two sets of gears between the knob and the encoder wheel, to make the spinner extremely sensitive.  While the encoder wheel only has 24 notches, the gearing causes 486 notches to pass through the optics for every turn of the knob!  Due to the lightweight and friction from the gearing, the Arkanoid spinner stops the instant you take your hand off the knob. &lt;br /&gt;
#Paddle- '''ADD CONTENT HERE&amp;quot;&amp;quot;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
#Discs of Tron ''Push/Pull''- This spinner used a giant 128-notch encoder wheel with a push / pull switch feature built into the spindle shaft. When the player pulled up or down on the spinner, a leafswitch was activated.  This was used to control the high / low aim of the disc in later levels of the game. Zwackery also used a Push/Pull spinner, and Forgotten Worlds used a push only (no pull) spinner. Oscar Controls marketed a Push/Pull spinner with a slightly different design, and a smaller 72 notch encoder wheel, but it is no longer available for purchase. The Oscar V2 had a Push option, and a Pull kit was rumored to be in the works before Oscar Controls closed down.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Spinner Brands=&lt;br /&gt;
#Oscar Controls- Was a manufacturere of spinners to the hobbyist market until recently. Several models were produced over the years, including the Model One, Pro, Vortex, Push/Pull, and V2.&lt;br /&gt;
#SlikStik- Tornado is billed as the &amp;quot;longest spinning&amp;quot; spinner on the market, the Tornado is currently the spinner that's been on the market the longest. With an extra-small footprint, and dual-bearing design, the Tornado is very well made.  Several knob options are also available.  The Tornado comes with it's own USB or PS/2 interface.  Plans to sell the Tornado with a plain-jane optic card have also been announced.&lt;br /&gt;
#GroovyGameGear- The TurboTwist is new to the market. Like the SlikStik Tornado, the TurboTwist also has a small footprint and a dual-bearing design.  The TurboTwist has an extra-high resolution encoder wheel, and comes with it's own USB or PS/2 Opti-Wiz interface.  The interface can be configured to put the spinner on the X, Y, or Z mouse axis, and will control other optic devices on the remaining two axes, such as a trackball, or additional spinners/steering wheels/optical rotary joysticks.  A plain-jane optic card version has also been announced.&lt;br /&gt;
#ArcadeGames4U- The cyclone is also new to the market. It has a dual-bearing design, with a lower resolution encoder wheel.  The Cyclone ships with an optic card, but no interface.  &lt;br /&gt;
#Build Your Own!- Many users have build their own spinners from whatever parts they had available- Hard drive bearings, skateboard bearings, whatever.  Use your imagination, or use this guide created by Nathan Strum. [http://arcadecontrols.com/files/Miscellaneous/spinner.pdf Download the PDF guide here] for building your own.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Two Spinners on a control panel; is it worth it?=&lt;br /&gt;
The answer is an unequivocal ''maybe''. There are several factors to keep in mind when trying to determine whether you should buy and install 2 spinners on your control panel.&lt;br /&gt;
#Budget- Spinners are somewhat expensive. Buying 2 aftermarket spinners with optics will set you back about $80-$160. &lt;br /&gt;
#Software- Can your software support 2 mice at the same time. Make sure you have a version of mame that can support 2 spinners if they're both individual USB units. If you have them both plugged into an [[Optical_Encoders#Opti-PAC|Optipac]] this won't be a problem. &lt;br /&gt;
#Space- Depending on the model, spinners can take up a lot of room under the surface of a control panel. The Oscar Controls Push/Pull spinner was approximately 5.5x6&amp;quot; for instance. Also, the more spinners you have, the less room you may have for other features and joysticks. &lt;br /&gt;
#Games- Most importantly, do you like an games that use more than 1 spinner? Below is a (non-definitive) list of dual spinner games &lt;br /&gt;
##Paddle Games&lt;br /&gt;
###Arkanoid Returns&lt;br /&gt;
###Off the Wall (Atari)&lt;br /&gt;
###Off the Wall (Bally Sente)&lt;br /&gt;
###Warlords&lt;br /&gt;
###Pop'n Bounce&lt;br /&gt;
###Plump Pop&lt;br /&gt;
###VS Blok Breaker&lt;br /&gt;
##Flying&lt;br /&gt;
###Blasteroids&lt;br /&gt;
###Two Tigers&lt;br /&gt;
##Driving&lt;br /&gt;
###Super Off Road&lt;br /&gt;
### Super Sprint&lt;br /&gt;
###Championship Super Sprint&lt;br /&gt;
###Bad Lands&lt;br /&gt;
###Ironman Ivan Stewart's Super Off-Road &lt;br /&gt;
###Ironman Stewart's Super Off-Road Track Pack &lt;br /&gt;
###Danny Sullivan's Indy Heat&lt;br /&gt;
## Other&lt;br /&gt;
###Atari 2 player games&lt;br /&gt;
###Puzzloop&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Spinners_and_Dials&amp;diff=2789</id>
		<title>Spinners and Dials</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Spinners_and_Dials&amp;diff=2789"/>
		<updated>2006-03-17T00:00:41Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: /* Two Spinners on a control panel; is it worth it? */ added more games.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Cleanup}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=What is a Spinner?=&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You might remember the spinner from games like Tempest and Arkanoid.  The player turns a knob to move the on-screen character.  But what's going on behind the scenes; what's that knob attached to?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Underneath the control panel, the shaft comes down from the knob above.  Mounted on the shaft, is an optical encoder wheel- a flat disk with notches cut around the outside edge.  These notches pass though a set of infra-red optics, that detect the notches as they spin by.  There are two sets of optics, spaced such that they see the notches spin by just a little bit out of sync.  The combined signal from both of these optics tells the game which direction the disk is turning, and how fast.  This is also how a trackball works, as well as a ball-type PC mouse.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Spinner Varieties=&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Tempest- Fast spinning lightweight spinner, which is very popular with arcade enthusiassts. It has 72 teeth on the encoder wheel, with nylon upper and lower bearings on the shaft.  This was the model for the Oscar Vortex aftermarket spinner.&lt;br /&gt;
#Arkanoid- The &amp;quot;geared&amp;quot; spinner.  Rather than mounting the encoder wheel directly to the shaft, the Arkanoid spinner used two sets of gears between the knob and the encoder wheel, to make the spinner extremely sensitive.  While the encoder wheel only has 24 notches, the gearing causes 486 notches to pass through the optics for every turn of the knob!  Due to the lightweight and friction from the gearing, the Arkanoid spinner stops the instant you take your hand off the knob. &lt;br /&gt;
#Discs of Tron ''Push/Pull''- This spinner used a giant 128-notch encoder wheel with a push / pull switch feature built into the spindle shaft. When the player pulled up or down on the spinner, a leafswitch was activated.  This was used to control the high / low aim of the disc in later levels of the game. Zwackery also used a Push/Pull spinner, and Forgotten Worlds used a push only (no pull) spinner. Oscar Controls marketed a Push/Pull spinner with a slightly different design, and a smaller 72 notch encoder wheel, but it is no longer available for purchase. The Oscar V2 had a Push option, and a Pull kit was rumored to be in the works before Oscar Controls closed down.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Spinner Brands=&lt;br /&gt;
#Oscar Controls- Was a manufacturere of spinners to the hobbyist market until recently. Several models were produced over the years, including the Model One, Pro, Vortex, Push/Pull, and V2.&lt;br /&gt;
#SlikStik- Tornado is billed as the &amp;quot;longest spinning&amp;quot; spinner on the market, the Tornado is currently the spinner that's been on the market the longest. With an extra-small footprint, and dual-bearing design, the Tornado is very well made.  Several knob options are also available.  The Tornado comes with it's own USB or PS/2 interface.  Plans to sell the Tornado with a plain-jane optic card have also been announced.&lt;br /&gt;
#GroovyGameGear- The TurboTwist is new to the market. Like the SlikStik Tornado, the TurboTwist also has a small footprint and a dual-bearing design.  The TurboTwist has an extra-high resolution encoder wheel, and comes with it's own USB or PS/2 Opti-Wiz interface.  The interface can be configured to put the spinner on the X, Y, or Z mouse axis, and will control other optic devices on the remaining two axes, such as a trackball, or additional spinners/steering wheels/optical rotary joysticks.  A plain-jane optic card version has also been announced.&lt;br /&gt;
#ArcadeGames4U- The cyclone is also new to the market. It has a dual-bearing design, with a lower resolution encoder wheel.  The Cyclone ships with an optic card, but no interface.  &lt;br /&gt;
#Build Your Own!- Many users have build their own spinners from whatever parts they had available- Hard drive bearings, skateboard bearings, whatever.  Use your imagination, or use this guide created by Nathan Strum. [http://arcadecontrols.com/files/Miscellaneous/spinner.pdf Download the PDF guide here] for building your own.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Two Spinners on a control panel; is it worth it?=&lt;br /&gt;
The answer is an unequivocal ''maybe''. There are several factors to keep in mind when trying to determine whether you should buy and install 2 spinners on your control panel.&lt;br /&gt;
#Budget- Spinners are somewhat expensive. Buying 2 aftermarket spinners with optics will set you back about $80-$160. &lt;br /&gt;
#Software- Can your software support 2 mice at the same time. Make sure you have a version of mame that can support 2 spinners if they're both individual USB units. If you have them both plugged into an [[Optical_Encoders#Opti-PAC|Optipac]] this won't be a problem. &lt;br /&gt;
#Space- Depending on the model, spinners can take up a lot of room under the surface of a control panel. The Oscar Controls Push/Pull spinner was approximately 5.5x6&amp;quot; for instance. Also, the more spinners you have, the less room you may have for other features and joysticks. &lt;br /&gt;
#Games- Most importantly, do you like an games that use more than 1 spinner? Below is a (non-definitive) list of dual spinner games &lt;br /&gt;
##Paddle Games&lt;br /&gt;
###Arkanoid Returns&lt;br /&gt;
###Off the Wall (Atari)&lt;br /&gt;
###Off the Wall (Bally Sente)&lt;br /&gt;
###Warlords&lt;br /&gt;
###Pop'n Bounce&lt;br /&gt;
###Plump Pop&lt;br /&gt;
###VS Blok Breaker&lt;br /&gt;
##Flying&lt;br /&gt;
###Blasteroids&lt;br /&gt;
###Tow Tigers&lt;br /&gt;
##Driving&lt;br /&gt;
###Super Off Road&lt;br /&gt;
### Super Sprint&lt;br /&gt;
###Championship Super Sprint&lt;br /&gt;
###Bad Lands&lt;br /&gt;
###Ironman Ivan Stewart's Super Off-Road &lt;br /&gt;
###Ironman Stewart's Super Off-Road Track Pack &lt;br /&gt;
###Danny Sullivan's Indy Heat&lt;br /&gt;
## Other&lt;br /&gt;
###Atari 2 player games&lt;br /&gt;
###Puzzloop&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Spinners_and_Dials&amp;diff=2788</id>
		<title>Spinners and Dials</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Spinners_and_Dials&amp;diff=2788"/>
		<updated>2006-03-16T23:56:46Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: /* Editorial:Two Spinners on a control panel; is it worth it? */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Cleanup}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=What is a Spinner?=&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You might remember the spinner from games like Tempest and Arkanoid.  The player turns a knob to move the on-screen character.  But what's going on behind the scenes; what's that knob attached to?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Underneath the control panel, the shaft comes down from the knob above.  Mounted on the shaft, is an optical encoder wheel- a flat disk with notches cut around the outside edge.  These notches pass though a set of infra-red optics, that detect the notches as they spin by.  There are two sets of optics, spaced such that they see the notches spin by just a little bit out of sync.  The combined signal from both of these optics tells the game which direction the disk is turning, and how fast.  This is also how a trackball works, as well as a ball-type PC mouse.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Spinner Varieties=&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Tempest- Fast spinning lightweight spinner, which is very popular with arcade enthusiassts. It has 72 teeth on the encoder wheel, with nylon upper and lower bearings on the shaft.  This was the model for the Oscar Vortex aftermarket spinner.&lt;br /&gt;
#Arkanoid- The &amp;quot;geared&amp;quot; spinner.  Rather than mounting the encoder wheel directly to the shaft, the Arkanoid spinner used two sets of gears between the knob and the encoder wheel, to make the spinner extremely sensitive.  While the encoder wheel only has 24 notches, the gearing causes 486 notches to pass through the optics for every turn of the knob!  Due to the lightweight and friction from the gearing, the Arkanoid spinner stops the instant you take your hand off the knob. &lt;br /&gt;
#Discs of Tron ''Push/Pull''- This spinner used a giant 128-notch encoder wheel with a push / pull switch feature built into the spindle shaft. When the player pulled up or down on the spinner, a leafswitch was activated.  This was used to control the high / low aim of the disc in later levels of the game. Zwackery also used a Push/Pull spinner, and Forgotten Worlds used a push only (no pull) spinner. Oscar Controls marketed a Push/Pull spinner with a slightly different design, and a smaller 72 notch encoder wheel, but it is no longer available for purchase. The Oscar V2 had a Push option, and a Pull kit was rumored to be in the works before Oscar Controls closed down.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Spinner Brands=&lt;br /&gt;
#Oscar Controls- Was a manufacturere of spinners to the hobbyist market until recently. Several models were produced over the years, including the Model One, Pro, Vortex, Push/Pull, and V2.&lt;br /&gt;
#SlikStik- Tornado is billed as the &amp;quot;longest spinning&amp;quot; spinner on the market, the Tornado is currently the spinner that's been on the market the longest. With an extra-small footprint, and dual-bearing design, the Tornado is very well made.  Several knob options are also available.  The Tornado comes with it's own USB or PS/2 interface.  Plans to sell the Tornado with a plain-jane optic card have also been announced.&lt;br /&gt;
#GroovyGameGear- The TurboTwist is new to the market. Like the SlikStik Tornado, the TurboTwist also has a small footprint and a dual-bearing design.  The TurboTwist has an extra-high resolution encoder wheel, and comes with it's own USB or PS/2 Opti-Wiz interface.  The interface can be configured to put the spinner on the X, Y, or Z mouse axis, and will control other optic devices on the remaining two axes, such as a trackball, or additional spinners/steering wheels/optical rotary joysticks.  A plain-jane optic card version has also been announced.&lt;br /&gt;
#ArcadeGames4U- The cyclone is also new to the market. It has a dual-bearing design, with a lower resolution encoder wheel.  The Cyclone ships with an optic card, but no interface.  &lt;br /&gt;
#Build Your Own!- Many users have build their own spinners from whatever parts they had available- Hard drive bearings, skateboard bearings, whatever.  Use your imagination, or use this guide created by Nathan Strum. [http://arcadecontrols.com/files/Miscellaneous/spinner.pdf Download the PDF guide here] for building your own.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Two Spinners on a control panel; is it worth it?=&lt;br /&gt;
The answer is an unequivocal ''maybe''. There are several factors to keep in mind when trying to determine whether you should buy and install 2 spinners on your control panel.&lt;br /&gt;
#Budget- Spinners are somewhat expensive. Buying 2 aftermarket spinners with optics will set you back about $80-$160. &lt;br /&gt;
#Software- Can your software support 2 mice at the same time. Make sure you have a version of mame that can support 2 spinners if they're both individual USB units. If you have them both plugged into an [[Optical_Encoders#Opti-PAC|Optipac]] this won't be a problem. &lt;br /&gt;
#Space- Depending on the model, spinners can take up a lot of room under the surface of a control panel. The Oscar Controls Push/Pull spinner was approximately 5.5x6&amp;quot; for instance. Also, the more spinners you have, the less room you may have for other features and joysticks. &lt;br /&gt;
#Games- Most importantly, do you like an games that use more than 1 spinner? Below is a (non-definitive) list of dual spinner games &lt;br /&gt;
##Blasteroids&lt;br /&gt;
##Warlords&lt;br /&gt;
##Super Off Road&lt;br /&gt;
##Super Sprint&lt;br /&gt;
##Bad Lands&lt;br /&gt;
##Off the Wall&lt;br /&gt;
##Sente's Off the Wall&lt;br /&gt;
##Atari 2 player games&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Spinners_and_Dials&amp;diff=2787</id>
		<title>Spinners and Dials</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Spinners_and_Dials&amp;diff=2787"/>
		<updated>2006-03-16T23:56:12Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: Added content &amp;amp; revised copy.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Cleanup}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=What is a Spinner?=&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You might remember the spinner from games like Tempest and Arkanoid.  The player turns a knob to move the on-screen character.  But what's going on behind the scenes; what's that knob attached to?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Underneath the control panel, the shaft comes down from the knob above.  Mounted on the shaft, is an optical encoder wheel- a flat disk with notches cut around the outside edge.  These notches pass though a set of infra-red optics, that detect the notches as they spin by.  There are two sets of optics, spaced such that they see the notches spin by just a little bit out of sync.  The combined signal from both of these optics tells the game which direction the disk is turning, and how fast.  This is also how a trackball works, as well as a ball-type PC mouse.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Spinner Varieties=&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Tempest- Fast spinning lightweight spinner, which is very popular with arcade enthusiassts. It has 72 teeth on the encoder wheel, with nylon upper and lower bearings on the shaft.  This was the model for the Oscar Vortex aftermarket spinner.&lt;br /&gt;
#Arkanoid- The &amp;quot;geared&amp;quot; spinner.  Rather than mounting the encoder wheel directly to the shaft, the Arkanoid spinner used two sets of gears between the knob and the encoder wheel, to make the spinner extremely sensitive.  While the encoder wheel only has 24 notches, the gearing causes 486 notches to pass through the optics for every turn of the knob!  Due to the lightweight and friction from the gearing, the Arkanoid spinner stops the instant you take your hand off the knob. &lt;br /&gt;
#Discs of Tron ''Push/Pull''- This spinner used a giant 128-notch encoder wheel with a push / pull switch feature built into the spindle shaft. When the player pulled up or down on the spinner, a leafswitch was activated.  This was used to control the high / low aim of the disc in later levels of the game. Zwackery also used a Push/Pull spinner, and Forgotten Worlds used a push only (no pull) spinner. Oscar Controls marketed a Push/Pull spinner with a slightly different design, and a smaller 72 notch encoder wheel, but it is no longer available for purchase. The Oscar V2 had a Push option, and a Pull kit was rumored to be in the works before Oscar Controls closed down.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Spinner Brands=&lt;br /&gt;
#Oscar Controls- Was a manufacturere of spinners to the hobbyist market until recently. Several models were produced over the years, including the Model One, Pro, Vortex, Push/Pull, and V2.&lt;br /&gt;
#SlikStik- Tornado is billed as the &amp;quot;longest spinning&amp;quot; spinner on the market, the Tornado is currently the spinner that's been on the market the longest. With an extra-small footprint, and dual-bearing design, the Tornado is very well made.  Several knob options are also available.  The Tornado comes with it's own USB or PS/2 interface.  Plans to sell the Tornado with a plain-jane optic card have also been announced.&lt;br /&gt;
#GroovyGameGear- The TurboTwist is new to the market. Like the SlikStik Tornado, the TurboTwist also has a small footprint and a dual-bearing design.  The TurboTwist has an extra-high resolution encoder wheel, and comes with it's own USB or PS/2 Opti-Wiz interface.  The interface can be configured to put the spinner on the X, Y, or Z mouse axis, and will control other optic devices on the remaining two axes, such as a trackball, or additional spinners/steering wheels/optical rotary joysticks.  A plain-jane optic card version has also been announced.&lt;br /&gt;
#ArcadeGames4U- The cyclone is also new to the market. It has a dual-bearing design, with a lower resolution encoder wheel.  The Cyclone ships with an optic card, but no interface.  &lt;br /&gt;
#Build Your Own!- Many users have build their own spinners from whatever parts they had available- Hard drive bearings, skateboard bearings, whatever.  Use your imagination, or use this guide created by Nathan Strum. [http://arcadecontrols.com/files/Miscellaneous/spinner.pdf Download the PDF guide here] for building your own.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Editorial:Two Spinners on a control panel; is it worth it?=&lt;br /&gt;
The answer is an unequivocal ''maybe''. There are several factors to keep in mind when trying to determine whether you should buy and install 2 spinners on your control panel.&lt;br /&gt;
#Budget- Spinners are somewhat expensive. Buying 2 aftermarket spinners with optics will set you back about $80-$160. &lt;br /&gt;
#Software- Can your software support 2 mice at the same time. Make sure you have a version of mame that can support 2 spinners if they're both individual USB units. If you have them both plugged into an [[Optical_Encoders#Opti-PAC|Optipac]] this won't be a problem. &lt;br /&gt;
#Space- Depending on the model, spinners can take up a lot of room under the surface of a control panel. The Oscar Controls Push/Pull spinner was approximately 5.5x6&amp;quot; for instance. Also, the more spinners you have, the less room you may have for other features and joysticks. &lt;br /&gt;
#Games- Most importantly, do you like an games that use more than 1 spinner? Below is a (non-definitive) list of dual spinner games &lt;br /&gt;
##Blasteroids&lt;br /&gt;
##Warlords&lt;br /&gt;
##Super Off Road&lt;br /&gt;
##Super Sprint&lt;br /&gt;
##Bad Lands&lt;br /&gt;
##Off the Wall&lt;br /&gt;
##Sente's Off the Wall&lt;br /&gt;
##Atari 2 player games&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Glossary&amp;diff=2511</id>
		<title>Glossary</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Glossary&amp;diff=2511"/>
		<updated>2006-03-10T17:16:06Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: /* Y */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{TOCabc}}&lt;br /&gt;
==A==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''[[Analog]]''', Analog data is data considered to be continuously variable -- that is, data that is not simply on or off (see ''digital''). Temperature is a good example of analog data.&lt;br /&gt;
==B==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Bemani''', synonymous with the rythm and dance game genre. Originally from ''Be''at''Mani''a - the first rythm game in the genre.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''[[Bezel]]''', A shroud surrounding the monitor of an arcade cabinet so as to frame the monitor and hide the inner workings of the arcade cabinet. &lt;br /&gt;
*'''Bucking magnet''', A magnet that is glued to the back of a speaker magnet to counteract the magnetic field the speaker produces. Normally used to allow placement of speakers close to monitors without the speaker's magnetic field distorting the monitor's picture.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''BYOAC''' short for &amp;quot;Build Your Own Arcade Controls&amp;quot;. Also the name of the [http://arcadecontrols.com/ website] and [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/ community] that spawned this Wiki.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''BYOACer''' a member of the Build Your Own Arcade Controls community.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==C==&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Cab''' Short for &amp;quot;Arcade ''cab''inet&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Cap-kit''', [[Capacitor Kit]] - The capacitors (electronic components) on monitor circuit boards tend to go bad after a while, causing color and picture distortion. Replacing the capacitors (and other related electronic components) will often fix such problems. The collection of capacitors and other components that are needed to repair the monitor are referred to as a &amp;quot;cap-kit.&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
* '''CMYK''' CMYK is a color description scheme used in printing, and stands for Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, and blacK. Mixing various amounts of these four colors produces the other colors needed in the printing process.&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Cockpit cabinet''' An arcade cabinet that is enclosed. The player sits inside the cabinet to play the game.&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Cocktail cabinet''' An arcade machine that is shaped like a small table. Players sit at the table and play the game looking down on the monitor. The monitor is oriented so that it is facing upwards.&lt;br /&gt;
* '''[[Coin door]]''' A metal door on an arcade cabinet where players insert money or tokens to be able to play the game.&lt;br /&gt;
* '''COM''' Common - a connector on a microswitch that is always used, regardless of whether the other connector used is NC or NO.&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Control panel''' The panel of wood on an arcade cabinet or desktop arcade controller that is the home for the pushbuttons, joysticks, and other arcade controls used by the arcade machine.&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Console''' can have different meanings dependant of the context it is used in:&lt;br /&gt;
:#short for &amp;quot;Game console&amp;quot; (see glossary [[#G|G: Game console]])&lt;br /&gt;
:#The keyboard/screen combination from which a (remote) computer is operated&lt;br /&gt;
:#The commandline interface to directly issue basic commands to the computer's operating system (example: The DOS version of MAME is lauched from a DOS-console).&lt;br /&gt;
* '''CP''' Short for &amp;quot;[[Control panel]]&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
* '''CPO''' Acronym for &amp;quot;Control Panel Overlay.&amp;quot; A CPO is a piece of vinyl or similar material originally used to cover the metal or wood control panel, display control instructions and branded game art.&lt;br /&gt;
* '''CRT''' Cathode Ray Tube - a type of monitor with a glass tube. You are probably most familiar with a CRT monitor in the form of older televisions and computer monitors (non-LCD based).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==D==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''DDR''' Dance Dance Revolution. A series of dance arcade games made by Konami. The series is named ''Dancing Stage'' in Europe, however many Europeans refer to the games by the DDR name.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Degaussing''' The process of demagnetizing (removing the magnetic field) of a monitor that can build up over time or occur from external sources, to remove the color or picture distortion caused by the field.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Desktop arcade controller''' A box that holds arcade controls use to play video games. The box is usually somewhere around 3 feet in width and 1.5 feet deep, and is designed to sit on a desktop when played. Unlike a full arcade cabinet, a desktop arcade controller only holds the arcade controls and internal electronics. No monitors, speakers, or computer are part of a desktop arcade controller. Some people have designed a complete &amp;quot;arcade-in-a-box&amp;quot; that goes beyond this definition, including the computer inside the controller, but this is rare.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Digital''' Digital data is data that is either on or off, one or zero, high or low. A pushbutton is a good example of data that is represented digitally. The button is either pressed, or not pressed. The amount that the pushbutton is pressed is not measured. A pushbutton that is pressed half-way down is still considered to be &amp;quot;off&amp;quot; until it makes final contact with the microswitch beneath it, at which point it is considered &amp;quot;on.&amp;quot; Compare to ''Analog''.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Diode''' A diode is a device that in simplest terms only allows electricity to flow in one direction. A diode has two ends: a cathode (-) and an anode (+). Current can only flow from the anode to the cathode, but not the other direction. [[Electronic_Components#Diodes| Diodes]] are sometimes used in [[keyboard_Hacks|keyboard hacks]].&lt;br /&gt;
*'''DIY''' Do It Yourself. &lt;br /&gt;
*'''DPI''' Dots Per Inch. Printing term used to describe the resolution of an image. For digital files, it may be better to think of DPI as pixels per inch.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==E==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Emulator''' A piece of software designed to make one computer act as another computer or arcade hardware. See also [[Emulators]].&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Encoder''' An electronic component, usually a microchip, that takes analog or digital signals from a device and encodes it in a format that the computer is able to understand. See [[encoders]].&lt;br /&gt;
==F==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Front End''' Software GUI used to launch game roms in one or more emulators&lt;br /&gt;
==G==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Game console''' A video game system designed for home play with a TV (or occasionally a computer monitor). Systems such as the Nintendo 64 and Sony Playstation are game consoles.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Game console controller''' The unit that plugs into a game console to control the game play. These are usually handheld pads with an analog  mini-joystick that controls direction, a digital flat control wheel that serves the same function, and pushbuttons.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''GUI''' Acronym for &amp;quot;Graphic User Interface&amp;quot;. A front end is an example of a GUI for MAME. The basic MAME is without a GUI, MAME32 is a version with a GUI.&lt;br /&gt;
==H==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Hack''' As used here, modifying a device to use it in a way that is different than originally intended. For instance, using the electronics of a mouse to connect an arcade trackball.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''High resolution''' A monitor with a refresh rate of 31.5kHz. &lt;br /&gt;
==I==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Isolation transformer''' A transformer that sits between the building electrical outlet and the monitor, isolating the monitor from the building electrical system.&lt;br /&gt;
==J==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''JAMMA''' - '''Japanese Amusement Machine Manufacturers' Association'''&lt;br /&gt;
A trade association based in Japan; it also the namesake of a trade show hosted in Japan; additionally, JAMMA is a wiring standard for arcade machines that allows for interchangability of video game PCBs without having to re-wire the arcade machine.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Joystick''' Any of a large variety of devices used to control arcade machines. The joystick has a shaft that extends above the control panel that is manipulated by the player, activating switches (microswitch or leaf switch) at the base of the joystick beneath the control panel, thereby controlling game play.&lt;br /&gt;
==K==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Keyboard blocking''' A technique used by keyboard manufacturers to prevent ''ghosting'' problems. After a certain number of keys are pressed at the same time, further keypresses are blocked.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Keyboard Encoder''' - A device used to interpret signals from arcade buttons and joysticks into standard keystroke signals. See [[encoders]].&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Keyboard ghosting''' A problem that occurs in older keyboards that do not feature keyboard blocking in which phantom keystrokes are generated when too many keys are pressed at the same time. For instance, pressing &amp;quot;A&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;C&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;E&amp;quot; at the same time may generate a fourth phantom &amp;quot;T&amp;quot; keystroke.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Keyboard matrix''' The grid in which a keyboard encoder maps keystrokes. The grid corresponds to the physical electronic traces on the keyboard circuit. A keyboard encoder that has a total of 20 keyboard traces can be arranged in a 10 x 10 matrix, allowing 100 total keystrokes. It can also be arranged in a 12 x 8 matrix, allowing 96 total keystrokes, or any other combination. The manner and method in which a keyboard matrix is designed varies from manufacturer to manufacturer.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Kill switch''' A switch that is designed to turn off a circuit when the button is released. Usually used as a precaution on the back door of arcade machines. When the back door is opened, the button is released, killing the power inside the arcade cabinet.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''KLOV''' The [http://www.klov.com Killer List of Video Games website].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==L==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''[[pushbuttons#Leafswitch Pushbuttons|Leaf Switch]]''' -  A switch type commonly used on older buttons and joysticks. It consisted of two metal contacts, that when united, completed a circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Leafs''' - Short form for ''leaf switch''&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Lexan''' An acrylic plastic used to protect control panels and occasionally as a protective barrier in front of a monitor, available in both clear and smoked varieties. See ''Plexiglas''.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''[[Light gun]]''' An amusement gun with optical electronics. The spot that is aimed at is determined optically by the gun electronics. Contrast with ''positional guns''.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Low resolution''' A monitor with a refresh rate of 15.75 kHz. Usually referred to as standard resolution.&lt;br /&gt;
==M==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''MAME''' Acronym for &amp;quot;Multiple Arcade Machine Emulator&amp;quot;. See also [[Arcade_Emulators#MAME|Arcade emulators]].&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Mame32''' Windows version of MAME with built in GUI&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Marquee''' Usually located at the top of an arcade machine, this is normally a back-lit colorful sign displaying the name of the video game. Marquees are designed to draw attention to the game.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Medium resolution''' A monitor with a refresh rate of 25 kHz.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''[[pushbuttons#Microswitch Pushbuttons|Microswitch]]''' A switch with three contacts, two of which are used at any one time. When the small button at the top of the switch is pressed (or released), a circuit is completed between the two contacts in use, activating the button. The three contacts are NC, NO, and COM. NO and COM are primarily used in arcade machine applications.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Multimeter''' A multimeter is an electronic measuring instrument that combines several functions in one unit. The most basic instruments include an ammeter, voltmeter, and ohmmeter. See the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multimeter Multimeter Wikipedia entry]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==N==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''NC''' Normally Closed - a connector on a microswitch used when a button is considered idle when it is pressed, and activated when it is not pressed. A kill-switch that disables an arcade machine when the back door is opened, releasing the pressure on the switch, is an example of a situation in which you would want to use the NC connector instead of the NO connector.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''NO''' Normally Open - a connector on a microswitch used when a button is considered idle when it is not pressed.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''NOS''' Acronym for &amp;quot;New Old-Stock.&amp;quot; This term is most commonly used to describe original, unused vintage items for sale or auction. Many times unused stock may be found stored away untouched for years. NOS items are not reproductions, they were manufactured by the original manufacturer and should be close to perfect condition.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''NTSC''' A television standard mainly used in the US and Japan. It uses 525 lines and 60-fields (interlaced) per second giving 30fps. NTSC stands for National Television System Committee who set the TV standards in the US. It has a some colour issues which were corrected when PAL was developed, and TV engineers will refer to NTSC as &amp;quot;Never Twice the Same Colour&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==O==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''OEM''' Acronym for &amp;quot;Original Equipment Manufacturer.&amp;quot; An OEM was the originator of a specific part. Parts from an OEM should be more accurate than reproduction parts made for the aftermarket. Reproduction parts are usually not considered 100% fully interchangeable with parts from the OEM.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Optical encoder''' The encoder that is the heart of a mouse or other optical device. It takes the data from the detector and sends the information to the computer.&lt;br /&gt;
==P==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''PAL''' A television standard widely used in Europe and Australia. PAL is based on the US NTSC standard, but unlike NTSC (used in the US and Japan) it uses 625 lines and 50-fields (interlaced) per second giving 25fps. Also, PAL stands for Phase Alternate Line, because the phase of the color carrier is alternated from line to line. This alternation helps cancel out phase errors, and gives a superior colour reproduction compared to NTSC ('hue' control is not needed on a PAL TV set) even though both are composite colour signals.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''PCB''' Printed Circuit Board - the circuit boards at the heart of an arcade machine.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Plexiglas''' An acrylic plastic used to protect control panels and occasionally as a protective barrier in front of a monitor, available in both clear and smoked varieties. Plexiglas is a brand name that is often used as a generic term. Lexan is another brand of acrylic plastic that is often used.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Positional gun''' An amusement gun with analog electronics, whose aim is determined by the position of two potentiometers (pots) at the base of the gun. As the gun is aimed, the potentiometers are moved, translating into horizontal and vertical positioning of the gun's aim.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''POT''' Short for potentiometer, a variable resistor whose resistance changes as a shaft is turned. A volume knob is an example of a potentiometer.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Port''' A port can be either a connection on a computer circuit board or a remake of a game/application on another system than the first release. For example the arcade game Pac-Man was ported from the Arcade to various home computer systems.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Q==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Quick disconnects''' Small connectors used as method to connect wires to microswitches without the need to solder the wire directly to the microswitch. Usually abbreviated as QDs or MQDs (male quick disconnects) and FQDs (female quick disconnects).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==R==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Raster graphics''' A raster-based graphic, such as a JPEG file, is composed of tiny dots, or pixels. Contrast it with ''vector graphics''.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Raster monitor''' A monitor that draws images on screen as a series of dots. Contrast it with ''vector monitor''.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Refresh rate''' The rate at which a monitor re-draws the images on the screen, broken into horizontal refresh rates and vertical refresh rates. Phosphors on the screen begin to lose their charge quickly and have to be refreshed to keep the image on the screen.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Resolution''' The size of the screen display on a monitor. Most PC users will be familiar with 640x480, 800x600, and 1024x768 resolutions, although many other resolutions are possible. Arcade machine typically used much lower resolutions.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Restrictor plate''' A metal plate that fits over a joystick, restricting its movement so that an eight-way joystick functions like a four-way joystick.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''RGB''' RGB is a color description scheme used for monitors and sometimes in printing, and stands for Red, Green, and Blue. Mixing various amounts of these three colors produces the other colors needed. Contrast with ''CMYK''.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''RGVAC''' Acronym for the usenet newsgroup [http://groups.google.com/group/rec.games.video.arcade.collecting?hl=en rec.games.video.arcade.collecting]. This is a newsgroup for arcade collectors and those interested in restoring arcade cabinets to their original form. Regulars to the newsgroup aren't too fond of people that convert rarer arcade cabinets into ermulator cabinets.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''ROM''' Acronym for &amp;quot;Read Only Memory&amp;quot;. ROMs contain program code, graphics and sound data that is used by the arcade hardware to run the games. Think of it as a CD on a chip. Many emulators require ROM image files to work.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==S==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''SCART''' A connector found primarily on European televisions providing stereo sound and video inputs.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Spinner''' An optical device used to control on-screen movement along a single axis, usually the X axis. As the spinner is turned the on-screen cursor (or arcade game image) is moved correspondingly.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Standard resolution''' A monitor with a refresh rate of 15.75 kHz. &lt;br /&gt;
==T==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''T-molding''' A plastic strip placed around the edges of an arcade cabinet for protective and decorative purposes. The strip is shaped like a T, with the long part of the T fitting in a groove in the edges of the cabinet.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Trackball''' An optical device used to control on-screen movement along the X and Y axes. As the ball is rolled the on-screen cursor (or arcade game image) is moved correspondingly.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Trigger-grip joystick''' A joystick that has a fire button in the shaft.&lt;br /&gt;
==U==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Upright cabinet''' An arcade machine that stands approximately six feet tall with the monitor facing the players while the player stands at the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
==V==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Vector graphics''' A vector-based graphic is composed of a series of mathematically described lines that form shapes.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Vector monitor''' A monitor that draws images on screen as a series of lines.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''VOM''' Acronym for Volt-Ohm-Milliemmeter. See multimeter entry.&lt;br /&gt;
==W==&lt;br /&gt;
''-No entries yet-''&lt;br /&gt;
==X==&lt;br /&gt;
''-No entries yet-''&lt;br /&gt;
==Y==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''YMMV''' Acronym for &amp;quot;Your Mileage May Vary,&amp;quot; an idiom meaning: &amp;quot;if you attempt this procedure, your results may differ from my results.&amp;quot; Common to message boards.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Yoke''' Two meanings:&lt;br /&gt;
:# A flight yoke used to control flying games. &lt;br /&gt;
:# Part of a monitor's electronics resting behind the picture tube.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Z==&lt;br /&gt;
''-No entries yet-''&lt;br /&gt;
==0..9==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''2-way joystick''' A joystick that only moves in 2 directions, left-right or up-down. Very few games used a 2-way joystick. [http://www.klov.com/game_detail.php?letter=S&amp;amp;game_id=9662 Space Invaders (KLOV link)] is one such game.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''4-way joystick''' A joystick that moves in 4 directions, normally up-down-left-right. Some games, such as [http://www.klov.com/game_detail.php?letter=Q&amp;amp;game_id=9182 Qbert (KLOV entry)], used a 4-way joystick rotated 45 degrees such that they movement was to the diagonals instead of straight up/down/left/right. Playing a 4-way based game with an 8-way joystick can be extremely frustrating. &lt;br /&gt;
*'''8-way joystick''' A joystick that moves in the 4 cardinal directions (up-down-left-right) and the diagonals as well. Playing an 8-way based game with a 4-way joystick can be extremely frustrating.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''49-way joystick''' A joystick that has 3 possible positions in each cardinal direction, plus a center position, allowing for a total of 49-different possible positions (7 on the X axis, 7 on the Y axis, 7*7=49).&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Glossary&amp;diff=2510</id>
		<title>Glossary</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Glossary&amp;diff=2510"/>
		<updated>2006-03-10T17:15:46Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: /* Y */ added YMMV&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{TOCabc}}&lt;br /&gt;
==A==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''[[Analog]]''', Analog data is data considered to be continuously variable -- that is, data that is not simply on or off (see ''digital''). Temperature is a good example of analog data.&lt;br /&gt;
==B==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Bemani''', synonymous with the rythm and dance game genre. Originally from ''Be''at''Mani''a - the first rythm game in the genre.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''[[Bezel]]''', A shroud surrounding the monitor of an arcade cabinet so as to frame the monitor and hide the inner workings of the arcade cabinet. &lt;br /&gt;
*'''Bucking magnet''', A magnet that is glued to the back of a speaker magnet to counteract the magnetic field the speaker produces. Normally used to allow placement of speakers close to monitors without the speaker's magnetic field distorting the monitor's picture.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''BYOAC''' short for &amp;quot;Build Your Own Arcade Controls&amp;quot;. Also the name of the [http://arcadecontrols.com/ website] and [http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/ community] that spawned this Wiki.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''BYOACer''' a member of the Build Your Own Arcade Controls community.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==C==&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Cab''' Short for &amp;quot;Arcade ''cab''inet&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Cap-kit''', [[Capacitor Kit]] - The capacitors (electronic components) on monitor circuit boards tend to go bad after a while, causing color and picture distortion. Replacing the capacitors (and other related electronic components) will often fix such problems. The collection of capacitors and other components that are needed to repair the monitor are referred to as a &amp;quot;cap-kit.&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
* '''CMYK''' CMYK is a color description scheme used in printing, and stands for Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, and blacK. Mixing various amounts of these four colors produces the other colors needed in the printing process.&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Cockpit cabinet''' An arcade cabinet that is enclosed. The player sits inside the cabinet to play the game.&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Cocktail cabinet''' An arcade machine that is shaped like a small table. Players sit at the table and play the game looking down on the monitor. The monitor is oriented so that it is facing upwards.&lt;br /&gt;
* '''[[Coin door]]''' A metal door on an arcade cabinet where players insert money or tokens to be able to play the game.&lt;br /&gt;
* '''COM''' Common - a connector on a microswitch that is always used, regardless of whether the other connector used is NC or NO.&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Control panel''' The panel of wood on an arcade cabinet or desktop arcade controller that is the home for the pushbuttons, joysticks, and other arcade controls used by the arcade machine.&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Console''' can have different meanings dependant of the context it is used in:&lt;br /&gt;
:#short for &amp;quot;Game console&amp;quot; (see glossary [[#G|G: Game console]])&lt;br /&gt;
:#The keyboard/screen combination from which a (remote) computer is operated&lt;br /&gt;
:#The commandline interface to directly issue basic commands to the computer's operating system (example: The DOS version of MAME is lauched from a DOS-console).&lt;br /&gt;
* '''CP''' Short for &amp;quot;[[Control panel]]&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
* '''CPO''' Acronym for &amp;quot;Control Panel Overlay.&amp;quot; A CPO is a piece of vinyl or similar material originally used to cover the metal or wood control panel, display control instructions and branded game art.&lt;br /&gt;
* '''CRT''' Cathode Ray Tube - a type of monitor with a glass tube. You are probably most familiar with a CRT monitor in the form of older televisions and computer monitors (non-LCD based).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==D==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''DDR''' Dance Dance Revolution. A series of dance arcade games made by Konami. The series is named ''Dancing Stage'' in Europe, however many Europeans refer to the games by the DDR name.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Degaussing''' The process of demagnetizing (removing the magnetic field) of a monitor that can build up over time or occur from external sources, to remove the color or picture distortion caused by the field.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Desktop arcade controller''' A box that holds arcade controls use to play video games. The box is usually somewhere around 3 feet in width and 1.5 feet deep, and is designed to sit on a desktop when played. Unlike a full arcade cabinet, a desktop arcade controller only holds the arcade controls and internal electronics. No monitors, speakers, or computer are part of a desktop arcade controller. Some people have designed a complete &amp;quot;arcade-in-a-box&amp;quot; that goes beyond this definition, including the computer inside the controller, but this is rare.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Digital''' Digital data is data that is either on or off, one or zero, high or low. A pushbutton is a good example of data that is represented digitally. The button is either pressed, or not pressed. The amount that the pushbutton is pressed is not measured. A pushbutton that is pressed half-way down is still considered to be &amp;quot;off&amp;quot; until it makes final contact with the microswitch beneath it, at which point it is considered &amp;quot;on.&amp;quot; Compare to ''Analog''.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Diode''' A diode is a device that in simplest terms only allows electricity to flow in one direction. A diode has two ends: a cathode (-) and an anode (+). Current can only flow from the anode to the cathode, but not the other direction. [[Electronic_Components#Diodes| Diodes]] are sometimes used in [[keyboard_Hacks|keyboard hacks]].&lt;br /&gt;
*'''DIY''' Do It Yourself. &lt;br /&gt;
*'''DPI''' Dots Per Inch. Printing term used to describe the resolution of an image. For digital files, it may be better to think of DPI as pixels per inch.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==E==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Emulator''' A piece of software designed to make one computer act as another computer or arcade hardware. See also [[Emulators]].&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Encoder''' An electronic component, usually a microchip, that takes analog or digital signals from a device and encodes it in a format that the computer is able to understand. See [[encoders]].&lt;br /&gt;
==F==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Front End''' Software GUI used to launch game roms in one or more emulators&lt;br /&gt;
==G==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Game console''' A video game system designed for home play with a TV (or occasionally a computer monitor). Systems such as the Nintendo 64 and Sony Playstation are game consoles.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Game console controller''' The unit that plugs into a game console to control the game play. These are usually handheld pads with an analog  mini-joystick that controls direction, a digital flat control wheel that serves the same function, and pushbuttons.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''GUI''' Acronym for &amp;quot;Graphic User Interface&amp;quot;. A front end is an example of a GUI for MAME. The basic MAME is without a GUI, MAME32 is a version with a GUI.&lt;br /&gt;
==H==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Hack''' As used here, modifying a device to use it in a way that is different than originally intended. For instance, using the electronics of a mouse to connect an arcade trackball.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''High resolution''' A monitor with a refresh rate of 31.5kHz. &lt;br /&gt;
==I==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Isolation transformer''' A transformer that sits between the building electrical outlet and the monitor, isolating the monitor from the building electrical system.&lt;br /&gt;
==J==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''JAMMA''' - '''Japanese Amusement Machine Manufacturers' Association'''&lt;br /&gt;
A trade association based in Japan; it also the namesake of a trade show hosted in Japan; additionally, JAMMA is a wiring standard for arcade machines that allows for interchangability of video game PCBs without having to re-wire the arcade machine.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Joystick''' Any of a large variety of devices used to control arcade machines. The joystick has a shaft that extends above the control panel that is manipulated by the player, activating switches (microswitch or leaf switch) at the base of the joystick beneath the control panel, thereby controlling game play.&lt;br /&gt;
==K==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Keyboard blocking''' A technique used by keyboard manufacturers to prevent ''ghosting'' problems. After a certain number of keys are pressed at the same time, further keypresses are blocked.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Keyboard Encoder''' - A device used to interpret signals from arcade buttons and joysticks into standard keystroke signals. See [[encoders]].&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Keyboard ghosting''' A problem that occurs in older keyboards that do not feature keyboard blocking in which phantom keystrokes are generated when too many keys are pressed at the same time. For instance, pressing &amp;quot;A&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;C&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;E&amp;quot; at the same time may generate a fourth phantom &amp;quot;T&amp;quot; keystroke.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Keyboard matrix''' The grid in which a keyboard encoder maps keystrokes. The grid corresponds to the physical electronic traces on the keyboard circuit. A keyboard encoder that has a total of 20 keyboard traces can be arranged in a 10 x 10 matrix, allowing 100 total keystrokes. It can also be arranged in a 12 x 8 matrix, allowing 96 total keystrokes, or any other combination. The manner and method in which a keyboard matrix is designed varies from manufacturer to manufacturer.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Kill switch''' A switch that is designed to turn off a circuit when the button is released. Usually used as a precaution on the back door of arcade machines. When the back door is opened, the button is released, killing the power inside the arcade cabinet.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''KLOV''' The [http://www.klov.com Killer List of Video Games website].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==L==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''[[pushbuttons#Leafswitch Pushbuttons|Leaf Switch]]''' -  A switch type commonly used on older buttons and joysticks. It consisted of two metal contacts, that when united, completed a circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Leafs''' - Short form for ''leaf switch''&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Lexan''' An acrylic plastic used to protect control panels and occasionally as a protective barrier in front of a monitor, available in both clear and smoked varieties. See ''Plexiglas''.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''[[Light gun]]''' An amusement gun with optical electronics. The spot that is aimed at is determined optically by the gun electronics. Contrast with ''positional guns''.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Low resolution''' A monitor with a refresh rate of 15.75 kHz. Usually referred to as standard resolution.&lt;br /&gt;
==M==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''MAME''' Acronym for &amp;quot;Multiple Arcade Machine Emulator&amp;quot;. See also [[Arcade_Emulators#MAME|Arcade emulators]].&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Mame32''' Windows version of MAME with built in GUI&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Marquee''' Usually located at the top of an arcade machine, this is normally a back-lit colorful sign displaying the name of the video game. Marquees are designed to draw attention to the game.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Medium resolution''' A monitor with a refresh rate of 25 kHz.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''[[pushbuttons#Microswitch Pushbuttons|Microswitch]]''' A switch with three contacts, two of which are used at any one time. When the small button at the top of the switch is pressed (or released), a circuit is completed between the two contacts in use, activating the button. The three contacts are NC, NO, and COM. NO and COM are primarily used in arcade machine applications.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Multimeter''' A multimeter is an electronic measuring instrument that combines several functions in one unit. The most basic instruments include an ammeter, voltmeter, and ohmmeter. See the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multimeter Multimeter Wikipedia entry]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==N==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''NC''' Normally Closed - a connector on a microswitch used when a button is considered idle when it is pressed, and activated when it is not pressed. A kill-switch that disables an arcade machine when the back door is opened, releasing the pressure on the switch, is an example of a situation in which you would want to use the NC connector instead of the NO connector.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''NO''' Normally Open - a connector on a microswitch used when a button is considered idle when it is not pressed.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''NOS''' Acronym for &amp;quot;New Old-Stock.&amp;quot; This term is most commonly used to describe original, unused vintage items for sale or auction. Many times unused stock may be found stored away untouched for years. NOS items are not reproductions, they were manufactured by the original manufacturer and should be close to perfect condition.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''NTSC''' A television standard mainly used in the US and Japan. It uses 525 lines and 60-fields (interlaced) per second giving 30fps. NTSC stands for National Television System Committee who set the TV standards in the US. It has a some colour issues which were corrected when PAL was developed, and TV engineers will refer to NTSC as &amp;quot;Never Twice the Same Colour&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==O==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''OEM''' Acronym for &amp;quot;Original Equipment Manufacturer.&amp;quot; An OEM was the originator of a specific part. Parts from an OEM should be more accurate than reproduction parts made for the aftermarket. Reproduction parts are usually not considered 100% fully interchangeable with parts from the OEM.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Optical encoder''' The encoder that is the heart of a mouse or other optical device. It takes the data from the detector and sends the information to the computer.&lt;br /&gt;
==P==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''PAL''' A television standard widely used in Europe and Australia. PAL is based on the US NTSC standard, but unlike NTSC (used in the US and Japan) it uses 625 lines and 50-fields (interlaced) per second giving 25fps. Also, PAL stands for Phase Alternate Line, because the phase of the color carrier is alternated from line to line. This alternation helps cancel out phase errors, and gives a superior colour reproduction compared to NTSC ('hue' control is not needed on a PAL TV set) even though both are composite colour signals.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''PCB''' Printed Circuit Board - the circuit boards at the heart of an arcade machine.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Plexiglas''' An acrylic plastic used to protect control panels and occasionally as a protective barrier in front of a monitor, available in both clear and smoked varieties. Plexiglas is a brand name that is often used as a generic term. Lexan is another brand of acrylic plastic that is often used.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Positional gun''' An amusement gun with analog electronics, whose aim is determined by the position of two potentiometers (pots) at the base of the gun. As the gun is aimed, the potentiometers are moved, translating into horizontal and vertical positioning of the gun's aim.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''POT''' Short for potentiometer, a variable resistor whose resistance changes as a shaft is turned. A volume knob is an example of a potentiometer.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Port''' A port can be either a connection on a computer circuit board or a remake of a game/application on another system than the first release. For example the arcade game Pac-Man was ported from the Arcade to various home computer systems.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Q==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Quick disconnects''' Small connectors used as method to connect wires to microswitches without the need to solder the wire directly to the microswitch. Usually abbreviated as QDs or MQDs (male quick disconnects) and FQDs (female quick disconnects).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==R==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Raster graphics''' A raster-based graphic, such as a JPEG file, is composed of tiny dots, or pixels. Contrast it with ''vector graphics''.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Raster monitor''' A monitor that draws images on screen as a series of dots. Contrast it with ''vector monitor''.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Refresh rate''' The rate at which a monitor re-draws the images on the screen, broken into horizontal refresh rates and vertical refresh rates. Phosphors on the screen begin to lose their charge quickly and have to be refreshed to keep the image on the screen.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Resolution''' The size of the screen display on a monitor. Most PC users will be familiar with 640x480, 800x600, and 1024x768 resolutions, although many other resolutions are possible. Arcade machine typically used much lower resolutions.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Restrictor plate''' A metal plate that fits over a joystick, restricting its movement so that an eight-way joystick functions like a four-way joystick.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''RGB''' RGB is a color description scheme used for monitors and sometimes in printing, and stands for Red, Green, and Blue. Mixing various amounts of these three colors produces the other colors needed. Contrast with ''CMYK''.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''RGVAC''' Acronym for the usenet newsgroup [http://groups.google.com/group/rec.games.video.arcade.collecting?hl=en rec.games.video.arcade.collecting]. This is a newsgroup for arcade collectors and those interested in restoring arcade cabinets to their original form. Regulars to the newsgroup aren't too fond of people that convert rarer arcade cabinets into ermulator cabinets.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''ROM''' Acronym for &amp;quot;Read Only Memory&amp;quot;. ROMs contain program code, graphics and sound data that is used by the arcade hardware to run the games. Think of it as a CD on a chip. Many emulators require ROM image files to work.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==S==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''SCART''' A connector found primarily on European televisions providing stereo sound and video inputs.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Spinner''' An optical device used to control on-screen movement along a single axis, usually the X axis. As the spinner is turned the on-screen cursor (or arcade game image) is moved correspondingly.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Standard resolution''' A monitor with a refresh rate of 15.75 kHz. &lt;br /&gt;
==T==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''T-molding''' A plastic strip placed around the edges of an arcade cabinet for protective and decorative purposes. The strip is shaped like a T, with the long part of the T fitting in a groove in the edges of the cabinet.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Trackball''' An optical device used to control on-screen movement along the X and Y axes. As the ball is rolled the on-screen cursor (or arcade game image) is moved correspondingly.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Trigger-grip joystick''' A joystick that has a fire button in the shaft.&lt;br /&gt;
==U==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Upright cabinet''' An arcade machine that stands approximately six feet tall with the monitor facing the players while the player stands at the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
==V==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Vector graphics''' A vector-based graphic is composed of a series of mathematically described lines that form shapes.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Vector monitor''' A monitor that draws images on screen as a series of lines.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''VOM''' Acronym for Volt-Ohm-Milliemmeter. See multimeter entry.&lt;br /&gt;
==W==&lt;br /&gt;
''-No entries yet-''&lt;br /&gt;
==X==&lt;br /&gt;
''-No entries yet-''&lt;br /&gt;
==Y==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Yoke''' Two meanings:&lt;br /&gt;
:# A flight yoke used to control flying games. &lt;br /&gt;
:# Part of a monitor's electronics resting behind the picture tube.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*'''YMMV''' Acronym for &amp;quot;Your Mileage May Vary,&amp;quot; an idiom meaning: &amp;quot;if you attempt this procedure, your results may differ from my results.&amp;quot; Common to message boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Z==&lt;br /&gt;
''-No entries yet-''&lt;br /&gt;
==0..9==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''2-way joystick''' A joystick that only moves in 2 directions, left-right or up-down. Very few games used a 2-way joystick. [http://www.klov.com/game_detail.php?letter=S&amp;amp;game_id=9662 Space Invaders (KLOV link)] is one such game.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''4-way joystick''' A joystick that moves in 4 directions, normally up-down-left-right. Some games, such as [http://www.klov.com/game_detail.php?letter=Q&amp;amp;game_id=9182 Qbert (KLOV entry)], used a 4-way joystick rotated 45 degrees such that they movement was to the diagonals instead of straight up/down/left/right. Playing a 4-way based game with an 8-way joystick can be extremely frustrating. &lt;br /&gt;
*'''8-way joystick''' A joystick that moves in the 4 cardinal directions (up-down-left-right) and the diagonals as well. Playing an 8-way based game with a 4-way joystick can be extremely frustrating.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''49-way joystick''' A joystick that has 3 possible positions in each cardinal direction, plus a center position, allowing for a total of 49-different possible positions (7 on the X axis, 7 on the Y axis, 7*7=49).&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Talk:Glossary&amp;diff=2481</id>
		<title>Talk:Glossary</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Talk:Glossary&amp;diff=2481"/>
		<updated>2006-03-09T04:26:56Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Should add PAL and uh, the other one.--[[User:Mahuti|mahuti]] 23:26, 8 March 2006 (EST)&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Talk:Glossary&amp;diff=2480</id>
		<title>Talk:Glossary</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Talk:Glossary&amp;diff=2480"/>
		<updated>2006-03-09T04:26:43Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Should add PAL and uh, the other one.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Talk:CD_Ripping&amp;diff=2471</id>
		<title>Talk:CD Ripping</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Talk:CD_Ripping&amp;diff=2471"/>
		<updated>2006-03-09T02:43:56Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;I'm not sure this Wiki is the right place for this article. I assume the info is meant for Jukebox cabinets, however encouraging people to rip CDs might not be legal. Opinions? [[User:Felsir|Felsir]] 14:17, 8 March 2006 (EST)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
:I don't think &amp;quot;legality&amp;quot; is an issue here - creating mp3's of you CD's is completely legal if you own them. Its also a required process if you own an Ipod or similar.&lt;br /&gt;
:However, I'm not sure this is the best place either. I appreciate the link to jukeboxes (I am building one myself) but there are so many of these guides already availble I feel a summary and a link would be better. Also because there are many ways to skin a cat, and people are not always in agreement. [[User:Silver|Silver]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::Yeah, I wasn't sure if the legality really is an issue here, but the article 'feels' out of place to me. If others agree I would make this a candidate for deletion. [[User:Felsir|Felsir]] 15:02, 8 March 2006 (EST)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Well, I know where I took the sources from, and I'd guess just because it's not all from one place, and modified by myself, it's still parts of a copyrighted work.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I think perhaps just a link to the BYOAC page, if anything.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If it's decided that this should be here, I'd have no problems redoing it myself, since there's some things I'd like to add/change/fix/etc.  -  DK&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Personally, I see no reason to take this off. CD Ripping is legitimate, though like anything COULD be made illegitimate. So can a baseball bat. --[[User:Mahuti|mahuti]] 21:43, 8 March 2006 (EST)&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Glossary&amp;diff=2447</id>
		<title>Glossary</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Glossary&amp;diff=2447"/>
		<updated>2006-03-08T18:32:27Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: /* L */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{TOCabc}}&lt;br /&gt;
==A==&lt;br /&gt;
''-No entries yet-''&lt;br /&gt;
==B==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Bemani''', synonymous with the rythm and dance game genre. Originally from ''Be''at''Mani''a - the first rythm game in the genre.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''BYOAC''' short for &amp;quot;Build Your Own Arcade Controls&amp;quot;. Also the name of the website and community that spawned this Wiki.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''BYOACer''' a member of the Build Your Own Arcade Controls community.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==C==&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Cab''' Short for &amp;quot;Arcade ''cab''inet&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
* '''CP''' Short for &amp;quot;[[Control panel]]&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
* '''CPO''' Acronym for &amp;quot;Control Panel Overlay.&amp;quot; A CPO is a piece of vinyl or similar material originally used to cover the metal or wood control panel, display control instructions and branded game art.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==D==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''DDR''' Dance Dance Revolution. A series of dance arcade games made by Konami. The series is named ''Dancing Stage'' in Europe, however many Europeans refer to the games by the DDR name.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''DIY''' Do It Yourself. &lt;br /&gt;
*'''DPI''' Dots Per Inch. Printing term used to describe the resolution of an image. For digital files, it may be better to think of DPI as pixels per inch.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==E==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Emulator''' A piece of software designed to make one computer act as another computer or arcade hardware. See also [[Emulators]].&lt;br /&gt;
==F==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Front End''' Software GUI used to launch game roms in one or more emulators&lt;br /&gt;
==G==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''GUI''' Acronym for &amp;quot;Graphic User Interface&amp;quot;. A front end is an example of a GUI for MAME. The basic MAME is without a GUI, MAME32 is a version with a GUI.&lt;br /&gt;
==H==&lt;br /&gt;
''-No entries yet-''&lt;br /&gt;
==I==&lt;br /&gt;
''-No entries yet-''&lt;br /&gt;
==J==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''JAMMA''' - '''Japanese Amusement Machine Manufacturers' Association'''&lt;br /&gt;
A trade association based in Japan; it also the namesake of a trade show hosted in Japan; additionally, JAMMA is a wiring standard for arcade machines.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==K==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Keyboard Encoder''' - A device used to interpret signals from arcade buttons and joysticks into standard keystroke signals&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==L==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Leaf Switch''' -  A switch type commonly used on older buttons and joysticks. It consisted of two metal contacts, that when united, completed a circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Leafs''' - Short form for ''leaf switch''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==M==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''MAME''' Acronym for &amp;quot;Multiple Arcade Machine Emulator&amp;quot;. See also [[Arcade_Emulators#MAME|Arcade emulators]].&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Multimeter''' A multimeter is an electronic measuring instrument that combines several functions in one unit. The most basic instruments include an ammeter, voltmeter, and ohmmeter. See the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multimeter Multimeter Wikipedia entry]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==N==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''NOS''' Acronym for &amp;quot;New Old-Stock.&amp;quot; This term is most commonly used to describe original, unused vintage items for sale or auction. Many times unused stock may be found stored away untouched for years. NOS items are not reproductions, they were manufactured by the original manufacturer and should be close to perfect condition.&lt;br /&gt;
==O==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''OEM''' Acronym for &amp;quot;Original Equipment Manufacturer.&amp;quot; An OEM was the originator of a specific part. Parts from an OEM should be more accurate than reproduction parts made for the aftermarket. Reproduction parts are usually not considered 100% fully interchangeable with parts from the OEM.&lt;br /&gt;
==P==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Port''' A port can be either a connection on a computer circuit board or a remake of a game/application on another system than the first release. For example the arcade game Pac-Man was ported from the Arcade to various home computer systems.&lt;br /&gt;
==Q==&lt;br /&gt;
''-No entries yet-''&lt;br /&gt;
==R==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''RGVAC''' Acronym for the usenet newsgroup rec.games.video.arcade.collecting. This is a newsgroup for arcade collectors and those interested in restoring arcade cabinets to their original form. Regulars to the newsgroup aren't too fond of people that convert rarer arcade cabinets into ermulator cabinets.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==S==&lt;br /&gt;
''-No entries yet-''&lt;br /&gt;
==T==&lt;br /&gt;
''-No entries yet-''&lt;br /&gt;
==U==&lt;br /&gt;
''-No entries yet-''&lt;br /&gt;
==V==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''VOM''' Acronym for Volt-Ohm-Milliemmeter. See multimeter entry.&lt;br /&gt;
==W==&lt;br /&gt;
''-No entries yet-''&lt;br /&gt;
==X==&lt;br /&gt;
''-No entries yet-''&lt;br /&gt;
==Y==&lt;br /&gt;
''-No entries yet-''&lt;br /&gt;
==Z==&lt;br /&gt;
''-No entries yet-''&lt;br /&gt;
==0..9==&lt;br /&gt;
''-No entries yet-''&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Glossary&amp;diff=2446</id>
		<title>Glossary</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Glossary&amp;diff=2446"/>
		<updated>2006-03-08T18:31:30Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: /* L */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{TOCabc}}&lt;br /&gt;
==A==&lt;br /&gt;
''-No entries yet-''&lt;br /&gt;
==B==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Bemani''', synonymous with the rythm and dance game genre. Originally from ''Be''at''Mani''a - the first rythm game in the genre.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''BYOAC''' short for &amp;quot;Build Your Own Arcade Controls&amp;quot;. Also the name of the website and community that spawned this Wiki.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''BYOACer''' a member of the Build Your Own Arcade Controls community.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==C==&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Cab''' Short for &amp;quot;Arcade ''cab''inet&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
* '''CP''' Short for &amp;quot;[[Control panel]]&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
* '''CPO''' Acronym for &amp;quot;Control Panel Overlay.&amp;quot; A CPO is a piece of vinyl or similar material originally used to cover the metal or wood control panel, display control instructions and branded game art.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==D==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''DDR''' Dance Dance Revolution. A series of dance arcade games made by Konami. The series is named ''Dancing Stage'' in Europe, however many Europeans refer to the games by the DDR name.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''DIY''' Do It Yourself. &lt;br /&gt;
*'''DPI''' Dots Per Inch. Printing term used to describe the resolution of an image. For digital files, it may be better to think of DPI as pixels per inch.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==E==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Emulator''' A piece of software designed to make one computer act as another computer or arcade hardware. See also [[Emulators]].&lt;br /&gt;
==F==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Front End''' Software GUI used to launch game roms in one or more emulators&lt;br /&gt;
==G==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''GUI''' Acronym for &amp;quot;Graphic User Interface&amp;quot;. A front end is an example of a GUI for MAME. The basic MAME is without a GUI, MAME32 is a version with a GUI.&lt;br /&gt;
==H==&lt;br /&gt;
''-No entries yet-''&lt;br /&gt;
==I==&lt;br /&gt;
''-No entries yet-''&lt;br /&gt;
==J==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''JAMMA''' - '''Japanese Amusement Machine Manufacturers' Association'''&lt;br /&gt;
A trade association based in Japan; it also the namesake of a trade show hosted in Japan; additionally, JAMMA is a wiring standard for arcade machines.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==K==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Keyboard Encoder''' - A device used to interpret signals from arcade buttons and joysticks into standard keystroke signals&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==L==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Leaf Switch''' - (short form: leafs) A switch type commonly used on older buttons and joysticks. It consisted of two metal contacts, that when united, completed a circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==M==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''MAME''' Acronym for &amp;quot;Multiple Arcade Machine Emulator&amp;quot;. See also [[Arcade_Emulators#MAME|Arcade emulators]].&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Multimeter''' A multimeter is an electronic measuring instrument that combines several functions in one unit. The most basic instruments include an ammeter, voltmeter, and ohmmeter. See the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multimeter Multimeter Wikipedia entry]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==N==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''NOS''' Acronym for &amp;quot;New Old-Stock.&amp;quot; This term is most commonly used to describe original, unused vintage items for sale or auction. Many times unused stock may be found stored away untouched for years. NOS items are not reproductions, they were manufactured by the original manufacturer and should be close to perfect condition.&lt;br /&gt;
==O==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''OEM''' Acronym for &amp;quot;Original Equipment Manufacturer.&amp;quot; An OEM was the originator of a specific part. Parts from an OEM should be more accurate than reproduction parts made for the aftermarket. Reproduction parts are usually not considered 100% fully interchangeable with parts from the OEM.&lt;br /&gt;
==P==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Port''' A port can be either a connection on a computer circuit board or a remake of a game/application on another system than the first release. For example the arcade game Pac-Man was ported from the Arcade to various home computer systems.&lt;br /&gt;
==Q==&lt;br /&gt;
''-No entries yet-''&lt;br /&gt;
==R==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''RGVAC''' Acronym for the usenet newsgroup rec.games.video.arcade.collecting. This is a newsgroup for arcade collectors and those interested in restoring arcade cabinets to their original form. Regulars to the newsgroup aren't too fond of people that convert rarer arcade cabinets into ermulator cabinets.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==S==&lt;br /&gt;
''-No entries yet-''&lt;br /&gt;
==T==&lt;br /&gt;
''-No entries yet-''&lt;br /&gt;
==U==&lt;br /&gt;
''-No entries yet-''&lt;br /&gt;
==V==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''VOM''' Acronym for Volt-Ohm-Milliemmeter. See multimeter entry.&lt;br /&gt;
==W==&lt;br /&gt;
''-No entries yet-''&lt;br /&gt;
==X==&lt;br /&gt;
''-No entries yet-''&lt;br /&gt;
==Y==&lt;br /&gt;
''-No entries yet-''&lt;br /&gt;
==Z==&lt;br /&gt;
''-No entries yet-''&lt;br /&gt;
==0..9==&lt;br /&gt;
''-No entries yet-''&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=CD_Ripping&amp;diff=2444</id>
		<title>CD Ripping</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=CD_Ripping&amp;diff=2444"/>
		<updated>2006-03-08T18:28:51Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Cleanup}}&lt;br /&gt;
'''this page needs to have the copious amounts of HTML removed. Also... was this ripped directly from someone elses article? If so, it violates copyright....'''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* This guide has been created using MaximumPC&amp;amp;#039;s awesome write-up, and after some further investigation on my part, some fine-tuning &amp;amp;amp; tweaking *&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;div align=&amp;quot;center&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;font-size: 15pt; line-height: 1.3em;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;text-decoration: underline;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;How To Rip CD-Quality MP3&amp;amp;#039;s&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/div&amp;gt;The secret lies in three components:&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;ul style=&amp;quot;margin-top: 0; margin-bottom: 0;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;li&amp;gt; A ripper that won&amp;amp;#039;t let bad extractions through&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&amp;lt;li&amp;gt; An encoder that delivers sparkling audio @ reasonable file sizes&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&amp;lt;li&amp;gt; A process that isn&amp;amp;#039;t a chore to complete&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/ul&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;This process automatically (if you&amp;amp;#039;re connected to the internet) looks up your CD info on freedb.org after you insert the CD, and with a single click will rip the contents, compress the music, tag the tracks, name &amp;amp;amp; number the files, create folders for your ripped files, and put each file into the folders you set up.&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;If you want spectacular rips from your CD&amp;amp;#039;s without having to worry about reviewing every track for flaws, Exact Audio Copy is the answer to the ripper you&amp;amp;#039;re looking for.&amp;amp;nbsp; EAC double-checks every bit for accuracy against the original; if it finds discrepancies, it reads the data again, and yet again if necessary.&amp;amp;nbsp; As a result, it&amp;amp;#039;s slower than other rippers, but with the automated process you&amp;amp;#039;re going to learn, you just *Ron Popeil voice* SET IT, AND FORGET IT! &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;First, let&amp;amp;#039;s assemble the programs you are going to need.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;The currently recommended version of EAC is &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;amp;quot;Exact Audio Copy 0.9 beta 4&amp;amp;quot;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; (pre-beta versions 0.9&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;pb4 and so on are unstable, have important features removed (for &amp;amp;quot;legal reasons&amp;amp;quot;) and have known bugs involving the tags, therefore SHOULD be avoided).&amp;amp;nbsp; EAC does not have THAT version on their website, &amp;lt;del&amp;gt;so Google the phrase I put in bold quotes, and download it.&amp;lt;/del&amp;gt; &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;*edit*&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;I&amp;amp;#039;ve been alerted to the fact that finding that version of EAC is kinda hard &amp;lt;img src=&amp;quot;http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/Smileys/default/undecided.gif&amp;quot; alt=&amp;quot;Undecided&amp;quot; border=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot; /&amp;gt; and a lot of other versions similar to this come up.&amp;amp;nbsp; To tidy this up, and to point you to a stellar place for info, head on over to www DOT ubernet DOT org.&amp;amp;nbsp; While you&amp;amp;#039;re there, look around, see what&amp;amp;#039;s going on over there....those guys are SERIOUS!&amp;amp;nbsp; The EAC version you&amp;amp;#039;re looking for is available there, and they have an even MORE idetailed writeup for achieving this if you&amp;amp;#039;re willing to invest the time.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;For Windows 2000 &amp;amp;amp; XP users, download the Nero ASPI Layer DLL Driver.&amp;amp;nbsp; You must place this DLL file in the directory you will be installing EAC (Usually C:\Program Files\Exact Audio Copy). Windows 95/98/ME already has an ASPI layer built in.&amp;amp;nbsp; You can find it at &amp;lt;a href=&amp;quot;http://www.nero.com/en/ASPI_Driver.html&amp;quot; target=&amp;quot;_blank&amp;quot;&amp;gt;http://www.nero.com/en/ASPI_Driver.html&amp;lt;/a&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;You&amp;amp;#039;ll also need to download the LAME encoder.&amp;amp;nbsp; The best current version to use is &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;amp;quot;LAME v3.90.3&amp;amp;quot;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; Again, Google the phrase I put in bold quotes, and download it (currently can be found at &amp;lt;a href=&amp;quot;http://www.rarewares.org&amp;quot; target=&amp;quot;_blank&amp;quot;&amp;gt;www.rarewares.org&amp;lt;/a&amp;gt;, but may disappear.&amp;amp;nbsp; (download the &amp;amp;quot;LAME 3.&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;90&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.3 &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;stable bundle&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; version).&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;Unzip &amp;amp;amp; install EAC, LAME &amp;amp;amp; (if needed) ASPI layer into the same directory.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;After all the software is installed, EAC needs to be configured.&amp;amp;nbsp; Put an audio CD in your CD-ROM drive BEFORE you open EAC.&amp;amp;nbsp; Launch EAC.&amp;amp;nbsp; EAC will perform an initial drive test.&amp;amp;nbsp; When asked, select Optimization for &amp;amp;quot;accurate results&amp;amp;quot;.&amp;amp;nbsp; If you have more than one CD drive, EAC will default to what it considers the best drive.&amp;amp;nbsp; You can change this in the Options menu to the drive you wish.&amp;amp;nbsp; EAC also offers to configure LAME for you.&amp;amp;nbsp; When it starts to search your drive for the LAME .exe, CANCEL the search and point EAC to it yourself to save time.&amp;amp;nbsp; When asked, select the &amp;amp;quot;standard&amp;amp;quot; LAME setting option for now (we will change this later)&amp;amp;nbsp; Last, choose the Expert interface option.&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;div align=&amp;quot;center&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;font-size: 10pt; line-height: 1.3em;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;text-decoration: underline;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Now, Some Fine Tuning&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/div&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;From the EAC --&amp;amp;gt;EAC Options menu, select the General tab and check &amp;amp;quot;On unknown CD&amp;amp;#039;s&amp;amp;quot;, then click the &amp;amp;quot;Automatically access online freedb database&amp;amp;quot; button.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;Now select the Filename tab, and under Naming scheme type &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;%A\%C\%N - %T (including the space after the %N and before the %T tag).&amp;amp;nbsp; This will result in your directory structure being set up as follows (this example is simply one of the more common ones, you may set YOURS up however you wish using the naming options):&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;Folder (Artist Name)&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;|_Subfolder (Album Name)&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; |_Number - Name.mp3 (song file)&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;Next you need to specify where all your ripped CD&amp;amp;#039;s will be sent to.&amp;amp;nbsp; Select the Directories tab, and choose &amp;amp;quot;Use this directory&amp;amp;quot;.&amp;amp;nbsp; Pick where you want EAC to put all your music folders/CD&amp;amp;#039;s.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;Go to EAC --&amp;amp;gt;Drive Options menu.&amp;amp;nbsp; The box marked &amp;amp;quot;Drive is capable of retrieving C2 error information&amp;amp;quot; might already be checked.&amp;amp;nbsp; If so, &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;UNCHECK&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; it.&amp;amp;nbsp; Inevitably it will be the one thing that causes you headaches.&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;font-size: 10pt; line-height: 1.3em;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&amp;lt;div align=&amp;quot;center&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;DO NOT UNCHECK SECURE MODE!&amp;amp;nbsp; The whole point of using EAC is its secure mode!&amp;amp;nbsp; Using Burst Mode is POINTLESS if you wish to ensure your rips are flawless!&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/div&amp;gt;[/size]&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;Go to the EAC --&amp;amp;gt;Compression Options menu.&amp;amp;nbsp; Select the External Compression tab and make sure the LAME MP3 Encoder is displayed in the &amp;amp;quot;Parameter passing scheme&amp;amp;quot; pulldown box.&amp;amp;nbsp; If it isn&amp;amp;#039;t, choose it.&amp;amp;nbsp; You will be unable to change anything else if it ISN&amp;amp;#039;T, so this step is vital.&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;You now have a choice to make.&amp;amp;nbsp; You can save your music in either constant (CBR) or variable (VBR) bit rate form.&amp;amp;nbsp; If you choose any of the VBR rates, &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;your songs MAY be unplayable in certain cases, &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;but the chance is slim&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;, and further investigation on my part leads to telling you &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;VBR is the preferred bit rate form&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.&amp;amp;nbsp; Why?&amp;amp;nbsp; LAME will vary the bit rate for each section of the track, i.e. silence wll be encoded at 64kbps and very complex parts may even reach 320kbps.&amp;amp;nbsp; A track encoded using a constant bit rate of 192kbps (for example) will sound far worse than a VBR file with an overall bit rate in the same region.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;By not wasting space encoding simple parts of a track at a high rate the LAME VBR setting lets more complex parts of a track be recorded in more detail, giving you a smaller file size without loss of quality.&amp;amp;nbsp; There is some disccusion over the various VBR setting that LAME has, but when it comes to VBR vs CBR there is no contest, unless you want to encode all your files with a CBR of 320.&amp;amp;nbsp; This would give you files with the same quality as VBR files but will be three times the size, so you might not even want to bother.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;Whatever your choice, either select 320 as the Bit Rate from the the &amp;amp;quot;Bit Rate&amp;amp;quot; pulldown menu if you wish to use CBR, or select 192 if you wish to use VBR &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;(selecting 320 using VBR causes a known bug)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;If you are using VBR, in the box next to &amp;amp;quot;Additional command line options&amp;amp;quot;, &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;CUT AND PASTE&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; to enter the following:&amp;amp;nbsp; --alt-preset standard&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;This command line option is much better than normal VBR modes, specially optimized in the program code and produces a higher quality file. &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;Go to the EAC --&amp;amp;gt;freedb Options menu.&amp;amp;nbsp; Make sure your e-mail address is correct and click the &amp;amp;quot;Get active freedb server list&amp;amp;quot; button.&amp;amp;nbsp; This will probably take a while.&amp;amp;nbsp; After you have the list, the default will probably be the &amp;lt;a href=&amp;quot;http://freedb.freedb.de:80/~cddb/cddb.cgi&amp;quot; target=&amp;quot;_blank&amp;quot;&amp;gt;http://freedb.freedb.de:80/~cddb/cddb.cgi&amp;lt;/a&amp;gt; server.&amp;amp;nbsp; From the drop down menu, select a server close to you - hint - check the server name for an idea of where it&amp;amp;#039;s located.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;Now, remove the CD from your drive and double check all your settings are correct.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;div align=&amp;quot;center&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;font-size: 10pt; line-height: 1.3em;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;text-decoration: underline;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Ready, Set, Test!&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/div&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;Now that EAC is ready, let&amp;amp;#039;s rip a CD!&amp;amp;nbsp; This first rip will be a test of your configuration.&amp;amp;nbsp; Insert a CD into your drive.&amp;amp;nbsp; EAC should&amp;amp;nbsp; automatically check the freedb server for track data.&amp;amp;nbsp; If it seems like it is NOT, press Alt-G to do so.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;Highlight some tracks and hit the MP3 button.&amp;amp;nbsp; EAC will now start extracting the audio from your CD.&amp;amp;nbsp; Once the first track is complete, a black DOS window should open (that&amp;amp;#039;s your MP3 being created).&amp;amp;nbsp; Don&amp;amp;#039;t close it, it will do that automatically once it&amp;amp;#039;s done.&amp;amp;nbsp; When you&amp;amp;#039;re all done, check the folder you ripped to in order to ensure LAME is finished.&amp;amp;nbsp; If so, you should have a folder full of mp3 files ONLY.&amp;amp;nbsp; If you have .wav files or .tmp files, wait a bit until LAME is done.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;Pat yourself on the back!&amp;amp;nbsp; You&amp;amp;#039;ve just automated your CD ripping, enhanced the accuracy of the final product, and are now creating the highest quality MP3&amp;amp;#039;s possible!&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;div align=&amp;quot;center&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;font-size: 10pt; line-height: 1.3em;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;text-decoration: underline;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Normalizing Your Files&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/div&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;If you wish to normalize the volume levels from track to track (NOT recommended, unless making a &amp;amp;quot;mix CD&amp;amp;quot;) do NOT use regular normalizing software, and DO NOT normalize the original file.&amp;amp;nbsp; Create a copy of the file(s) you wish to normalize and make any changes to the copy.&amp;amp;nbsp; To normalize files that will be burnt to CD, use MP3Gain (download at &amp;lt;a href=&amp;quot;http://www.geocities.com/mp3gain&amp;quot; target=&amp;quot;_blank&amp;quot;&amp;gt;www.geocities.com/mp3gain&amp;lt;/a&amp;gt;).&amp;amp;nbsp; Do NOT use MP3Gain for any other use. &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;div align=&amp;quot;center&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;font-size: 10pt; line-height: 1.3em;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;text-decoration: underline;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Possible Problems?&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/div&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;While ripping may go quickly, please keep in mind that EAC is NOT designed to be a fast worker, it&amp;amp;#039;s meant to be a CAREFUL one instead.&amp;amp;nbsp; Depending on the condition of the CD (scratches and whatnot) and the accuracy of your drive, ripping could take a while.&amp;amp;nbsp; When the test run is finished, review your tracks.&amp;amp;nbsp; If they are blank or there are any errors, check the settings above once again.&amp;amp;nbsp; If everything checks out, PM me with questions and I&amp;amp;#039;ll see if I can help you out.&amp;amp;nbsp; If the settings look good, doulbe check to make sure (if you have Windows 2000 / XP) you have the ASPI layer installed in the EAC folder.&amp;amp;nbsp; Your PC can&amp;amp;#039;t rip music without an ASPI layer, and 99% of errors are solved by using the correct ASPI layer - again, if you are using Windows 98SE or lower, the ASPI layer will already be present, Windows 2000/XP REQUIRE that ASPI layer.&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;Also, if your CD&amp;amp;#039;s are scratched TOO badly, EAC can&amp;amp;#039;t always correct them.&amp;amp;nbsp; After a number of tries, EAC will give up its attempts to correct the error and report a Read Error or Sync Error on the log after it has finished ripping.&amp;amp;nbsp; What are some options to remove the scratches?&amp;amp;nbsp; Commercial scratch removers, such as the Skip Doctor line of products (careful, the discs used remove different amounts of material, stick with Skip Dr) work well, or you may wish to give something you may have lying around the house a go, such as Brasso or toothpaste (stick with the &amp;amp;quot;old skool&amp;amp;quot; versions or the &amp;amp;quot;whitening&amp;amp;quot; versions).&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;A CD consists of a reflective silver layer &amp;amp;#039;sandwiched&amp;amp;#039; between 2 protective layers: one on top (the label side, often decorated with text and colour) and one below (the clear side: thick transparent plastic through which you can see the reflective silver layer). The label side is thin, if a scratch on it reaches and damages the delicate reflective layer (typical is that you can locally look through the CD), the CD is broke and cannot be repaired. The clear side is so thick that scratches on it most likely will not reach the reflective layer. In the worst case they diffract laser light so that it doesn&amp;amp;#039;t reflect properly on the reflective layer, causing read trouble.&amp;amp;nbsp; This is what we try to fix with the methods listed above.&amp;amp;nbsp; These methods will generally only work for pressed CD&amp;amp;#039;s (the ones you buy in a store).&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;First, try to determine which of the (many) scratches is causing the trouble.&amp;amp;nbsp; Look for concentric scratches.&amp;amp;nbsp; These do more harm than radial scratches (concentric = parallel with the outer edge of the CD, radial = from center to outer edge). On the CD each track circles around the previous one. So, if EAC reports an error on the last track, your scratch must be near the outer edge of the CD.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;Rub the scratch with Brasso.&amp;amp;nbsp; Put some brasso on the clear side, where the scratch is.&amp;amp;nbsp; Rub with a cloth at medium pressure, preferably in radial direction (you know why).&amp;amp;nbsp; If you need to remove a deep scratch, rub in a direction crossing the scratch even if it isn&amp;amp;#039;t radial (because that works fastest), but take care to finish radially (preferably with fresh brasso).&amp;amp;nbsp; As you rub, the fine grit present in the brasso pressed between your fingers and the CD, will wear away some of the plastic layer together with its scratches. You may rub firmly to make the work advance, but hold on long enough to make sure the scratch gets removed.&amp;amp;nbsp; As the brasso gets thicker due to the worn away plastic it will get less grinding, so you might need to use fresh Brasso.&amp;amp;nbsp; Complete removal of a scratch is often not needed to make the scratch harmless.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;If you think you&amp;amp;#039;ve done enough, clean the CD with water. Be careful when you wipe off the water (this causes new scratces). A radial direction is again a good idea.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;The whole process is a matter of a few minutes. You might feel a little unsure the first time you try it, but don&amp;amp;#039;t worry, it is something easy to learn.&amp;amp;nbsp; It also may be your last resort, so what do you have to lose?&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=CD_Ripping&amp;diff=2442</id>
		<title>CD Ripping</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=CD_Ripping&amp;diff=2442"/>
		<updated>2006-03-08T18:27:50Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: &lt;/p&gt;
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* This guide has been created using MaximumPC&amp;amp;#039;s awesome write-up, and after some further investigation on my part, some fine-tuning &amp;amp;amp; tweaking *&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;div align=&amp;quot;center&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;font-size: 15pt; line-height: 1.3em;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;text-decoration: underline;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;How To Rip CD-Quality MP3&amp;amp;#039;s&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/div&amp;gt;The secret lies in three components:&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;ul style=&amp;quot;margin-top: 0; margin-bottom: 0;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;li&amp;gt; A ripper that won&amp;amp;#039;t let bad extractions through&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&amp;lt;li&amp;gt; An encoder that delivers sparkling audio @ reasonable file sizes&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&amp;lt;li&amp;gt; A process that isn&amp;amp;#039;t a chore to complete&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/ul&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;This process automatically (if you&amp;amp;#039;re connected to the internet) looks up your CD info on freedb.org after you insert the CD, and with a single click will rip the contents, compress the music, tag the tracks, name &amp;amp;amp; number the files, create folders for your ripped files, and put each file into the folders you set up.&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;If you want spectacular rips from your CD&amp;amp;#039;s without having to worry about reviewing every track for flaws, Exact Audio Copy is the answer to the ripper you&amp;amp;#039;re looking for.&amp;amp;nbsp; EAC double-checks every bit for accuracy against the original; if it finds discrepancies, it reads the data again, and yet again if necessary.&amp;amp;nbsp; As a result, it&amp;amp;#039;s slower than other rippers, but with the automated process you&amp;amp;#039;re going to learn, you just *Ron Popeil voice* SET IT, AND FORGET IT! &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;First, let&amp;amp;#039;s assemble the programs you are going to need.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;The currently recommended version of EAC is &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;amp;quot;Exact Audio Copy 0.9 beta 4&amp;amp;quot;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; (pre-beta versions 0.9&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;pb4 and so on are unstable, have important features removed (for &amp;amp;quot;legal reasons&amp;amp;quot;) and have known bugs involving the tags, therefore SHOULD be avoided).&amp;amp;nbsp; EAC does not have THAT version on their website, &amp;lt;del&amp;gt;so Google the phrase I put in bold quotes, and download it.&amp;lt;/del&amp;gt; &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;*edit*&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;I&amp;amp;#039;ve been alerted to the fact that finding that version of EAC is kinda hard &amp;lt;img src=&amp;quot;http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/Smileys/default/undecided.gif&amp;quot; alt=&amp;quot;Undecided&amp;quot; border=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot; /&amp;gt; and a lot of other versions similar to this come up.&amp;amp;nbsp; To tidy this up, and to point you to a stellar place for info, head on over to www DOT ubernet DOT org.&amp;amp;nbsp; While you&amp;amp;#039;re there, look around, see what&amp;amp;#039;s going on over there....those guys are SERIOUS!&amp;amp;nbsp; The EAC version you&amp;amp;#039;re looking for is available there, and they have an even MORE idetailed writeup for achieving this if you&amp;amp;#039;re willing to invest the time.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;For Windows 2000 &amp;amp;amp; XP users, download the Nero ASPI Layer DLL Driver.&amp;amp;nbsp; You must place this DLL file in the directory you will be installing EAC (Usually C:\Program Files\Exact Audio Copy). Windows 95/98/ME already has an ASPI layer built in.&amp;amp;nbsp; You can find it at &amp;lt;a href=&amp;quot;http://www.nero.com/en/ASPI_Driver.html&amp;quot; target=&amp;quot;_blank&amp;quot;&amp;gt;http://www.nero.com/en/ASPI_Driver.html&amp;lt;/a&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;You&amp;amp;#039;ll also need to download the LAME encoder.&amp;amp;nbsp; The best current version to use is &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;amp;quot;LAME v3.90.3&amp;amp;quot;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; Again, Google the phrase I put in bold quotes, and download it (currently can be found at &amp;lt;a href=&amp;quot;http://www.rarewares.org&amp;quot; target=&amp;quot;_blank&amp;quot;&amp;gt;www.rarewares.org&amp;lt;/a&amp;gt;, but may disappear.&amp;amp;nbsp; (download the &amp;amp;quot;LAME 3.&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;90&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.3 &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;stable bundle&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; version).&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;Unzip &amp;amp;amp; install EAC, LAME &amp;amp;amp; (if needed) ASPI layer into the same directory.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;After all the software is installed, EAC needs to be configured.&amp;amp;nbsp; Put an audio CD in your CD-ROM drive BEFORE you open EAC.&amp;amp;nbsp; Launch EAC.&amp;amp;nbsp; EAC will perform an initial drive test.&amp;amp;nbsp; When asked, select Optimization for &amp;amp;quot;accurate results&amp;amp;quot;.&amp;amp;nbsp; If you have more than one CD drive, EAC will default to what it considers the best drive.&amp;amp;nbsp; You can change this in the Options menu to the drive you wish.&amp;amp;nbsp; EAC also offers to configure LAME for you.&amp;amp;nbsp; When it starts to search your drive for the LAME .exe, CANCEL the search and point EAC to it yourself to save time.&amp;amp;nbsp; When asked, select the &amp;amp;quot;standard&amp;amp;quot; LAME setting option for now (we will change this later)&amp;amp;nbsp; Last, choose the Expert interface option.&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;div align=&amp;quot;center&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;font-size: 10pt; line-height: 1.3em;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;text-decoration: underline;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Now, Some Fine Tuning&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/div&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;From the EAC --&amp;amp;gt;EAC Options menu, select the General tab and check &amp;amp;quot;On unknown CD&amp;amp;#039;s&amp;amp;quot;, then click the &amp;amp;quot;Automatically access online freedb database&amp;amp;quot; button.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;Now select the Filename tab, and under Naming scheme type &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;%A\%C\%N - %T (including the space after the %N and before the %T tag).&amp;amp;nbsp; This will result in your directory structure being set up as follows (this example is simply one of the more common ones, you may set YOURS up however you wish using the naming options):&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;Folder (Artist Name)&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;|_Subfolder (Album Name)&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; |_Number - Name.mp3 (song file)&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;Next you need to specify where all your ripped CD&amp;amp;#039;s will be sent to.&amp;amp;nbsp; Select the Directories tab, and choose &amp;amp;quot;Use this directory&amp;amp;quot;.&amp;amp;nbsp; Pick where you want EAC to put all your music folders/CD&amp;amp;#039;s.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;Go to EAC --&amp;amp;gt;Drive Options menu.&amp;amp;nbsp; The box marked &amp;amp;quot;Drive is capable of retrieving C2 error information&amp;amp;quot; might already be checked.&amp;amp;nbsp; If so, &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;UNCHECK&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; it.&amp;amp;nbsp; Inevitably it will be the one thing that causes you headaches.&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;font-size: 10pt; line-height: 1.3em;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&amp;lt;div align=&amp;quot;center&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;DO NOT UNCHECK SECURE MODE!&amp;amp;nbsp; The whole point of using EAC is its secure mode!&amp;amp;nbsp; Using Burst Mode is POINTLESS if you wish to ensure your rips are flawless!&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/div&amp;gt;[/size]&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;Go to the EAC --&amp;amp;gt;Compression Options menu.&amp;amp;nbsp; Select the External Compression tab and make sure the LAME MP3 Encoder is displayed in the &amp;amp;quot;Parameter passing scheme&amp;amp;quot; pulldown box.&amp;amp;nbsp; If it isn&amp;amp;#039;t, choose it.&amp;amp;nbsp; You will be unable to change anything else if it ISN&amp;amp;#039;T, so this step is vital.&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;You now have a choice to make.&amp;amp;nbsp; You can save your music in either constant (CBR) or variable (VBR) bit rate form.&amp;amp;nbsp; If you choose any of the VBR rates, &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;your songs MAY be unplayable in certain cases, &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;but the chance is slim&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;, and further investigation on my part leads to telling you &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;VBR is the preferred bit rate form&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.&amp;amp;nbsp; Why?&amp;amp;nbsp; LAME will vary the bit rate for each section of the track, i.e. silence wll be encoded at 64kbps and very complex parts may even reach 320kbps.&amp;amp;nbsp; A track encoded using a constant bit rate of 192kbps (for example) will sound far worse than a VBR file with an overall bit rate in the same region.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;By not wasting space encoding simple parts of a track at a high rate the LAME VBR setting lets more complex parts of a track be recorded in more detail, giving you a smaller file size without loss of quality.&amp;amp;nbsp; There is some disccusion over the various VBR setting that LAME has, but when it comes to VBR vs CBR there is no contest, unless you want to encode all your files with a CBR of 320.&amp;amp;nbsp; This would give you files with the same quality as VBR files but will be three times the size, so you might not even want to bother.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;Whatever your choice, either select 320 as the Bit Rate from the the &amp;amp;quot;Bit Rate&amp;amp;quot; pulldown menu if you wish to use CBR, or select 192 if you wish to use VBR &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;(selecting 320 using VBR causes a known bug)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;If you are using VBR, in the box next to &amp;amp;quot;Additional command line options&amp;amp;quot;, &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;CUT AND PASTE&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; to enter the following:&amp;amp;nbsp; --alt-preset standard&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;This command line option is much better than normal VBR modes, specially optimized in the program code and produces a higher quality file. &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;Go to the EAC --&amp;amp;gt;freedb Options menu.&amp;amp;nbsp; Make sure your e-mail address is correct and click the &amp;amp;quot;Get active freedb server list&amp;amp;quot; button.&amp;amp;nbsp; This will probably take a while.&amp;amp;nbsp; After you have the list, the default will probably be the &amp;lt;a href=&amp;quot;http://freedb.freedb.de:80/~cddb/cddb.cgi&amp;quot; target=&amp;quot;_blank&amp;quot;&amp;gt;http://freedb.freedb.de:80/~cddb/cddb.cgi&amp;lt;/a&amp;gt; server.&amp;amp;nbsp; From the drop down menu, select a server close to you - hint - check the server name for an idea of where it&amp;amp;#039;s located.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;Now, remove the CD from your drive and double check all your settings are correct.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;div align=&amp;quot;center&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;font-size: 10pt; line-height: 1.3em;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;text-decoration: underline;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Ready, Set, Test!&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/div&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;Now that EAC is ready, let&amp;amp;#039;s rip a CD!&amp;amp;nbsp; This first rip will be a test of your configuration.&amp;amp;nbsp; Insert a CD into your drive.&amp;amp;nbsp; EAC should&amp;amp;nbsp; automatically check the freedb server for track data.&amp;amp;nbsp; If it seems like it is NOT, press Alt-G to do so.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;Highlight some tracks and hit the MP3 button.&amp;amp;nbsp; EAC will now start extracting the audio from your CD.&amp;amp;nbsp; Once the first track is complete, a black DOS window should open (that&amp;amp;#039;s your MP3 being created).&amp;amp;nbsp; Don&amp;amp;#039;t close it, it will do that automatically once it&amp;amp;#039;s done.&amp;amp;nbsp; When you&amp;amp;#039;re all done, check the folder you ripped to in order to ensure LAME is finished.&amp;amp;nbsp; If so, you should have a folder full of mp3 files ONLY.&amp;amp;nbsp; If you have .wav files or .tmp files, wait a bit until LAME is done.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;Pat yourself on the back!&amp;amp;nbsp; You&amp;amp;#039;ve just automated your CD ripping, enhanced the accuracy of the final product, and are now creating the highest quality MP3&amp;amp;#039;s possible!&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;div align=&amp;quot;center&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;font-size: 10pt; line-height: 1.3em;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;text-decoration: underline;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Normalizing Your Files&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/div&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;If you wish to normalize the volume levels from track to track (NOT recommended, unless making a &amp;amp;quot;mix CD&amp;amp;quot;) do NOT use regular normalizing software, and DO NOT normalize the original file.&amp;amp;nbsp; Create a copy of the file(s) you wish to normalize and make any changes to the copy.&amp;amp;nbsp; To normalize files that will be burnt to CD, use MP3Gain (download at &amp;lt;a href=&amp;quot;http://www.geocities.com/mp3gain&amp;quot; target=&amp;quot;_blank&amp;quot;&amp;gt;www.geocities.com/mp3gain&amp;lt;/a&amp;gt;).&amp;amp;nbsp; Do NOT use MP3Gain for any other use. &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;div align=&amp;quot;center&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;font-size: 10pt; line-height: 1.3em;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;text-decoration: underline;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Possible Problems?&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/div&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;While ripping may go quickly, please keep in mind that EAC is NOT designed to be a fast worker, it&amp;amp;#039;s meant to be a CAREFUL one instead.&amp;amp;nbsp; Depending on the condition of the CD (scratches and whatnot) and the accuracy of your drive, ripping could take a while.&amp;amp;nbsp; When the test run is finished, review your tracks.&amp;amp;nbsp; If they are blank or there are any errors, check the settings above once again.&amp;amp;nbsp; If everything checks out, PM me with questions and I&amp;amp;#039;ll see if I can help you out.&amp;amp;nbsp; If the settings look good, doulbe check to make sure (if you have Windows 2000 / XP) you have the ASPI layer installed in the EAC folder.&amp;amp;nbsp; Your PC can&amp;amp;#039;t rip music without an ASPI layer, and 99% of errors are solved by using the correct ASPI layer - again, if you are using Windows 98SE or lower, the ASPI layer will already be present, Windows 2000/XP REQUIRE that ASPI layer.&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;Also, if your CD&amp;amp;#039;s are scratched TOO badly, EAC can&amp;amp;#039;t always correct them.&amp;amp;nbsp; After a number of tries, EAC will give up its attempts to correct the error and report a Read Error or Sync Error on the log after it has finished ripping.&amp;amp;nbsp; What are some options to remove the scratches?&amp;amp;nbsp; Commercial scratch removers, such as the Skip Doctor line of products (careful, the discs used remove different amounts of material, stick with Skip Dr) work well, or you may wish to give something you may have lying around the house a go, such as Brasso or toothpaste (stick with the &amp;amp;quot;old skool&amp;amp;quot; versions or the &amp;amp;quot;whitening&amp;amp;quot; versions).&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;A CD consists of a reflective silver layer &amp;amp;#039;sandwiched&amp;amp;#039; between 2 protective layers: one on top (the label side, often decorated with text and colour) and one below (the clear side: thick transparent plastic through which you can see the reflective silver layer). The label side is thin, if a scratch on it reaches and damages the delicate reflective layer (typical is that you can locally look through the CD), the CD is broke and cannot be repaired. The clear side is so thick that scratches on it most likely will not reach the reflective layer. In the worst case they diffract laser light so that it doesn&amp;amp;#039;t reflect properly on the reflective layer, causing read trouble.&amp;amp;nbsp; This is what we try to fix with the methods listed above.&amp;amp;nbsp; These methods will generally only work for pressed CD&amp;amp;#039;s (the ones you buy in a store).&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;First, try to determine which of the (many) scratches is causing the trouble.&amp;amp;nbsp; Look for concentric scratches.&amp;amp;nbsp; These do more harm than radial scratches (concentric = parallel with the outer edge of the CD, radial = from center to outer edge). On the CD each track circles around the previous one. So, if EAC reports an error on the last track, your scratch must be near the outer edge of the CD.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;Rub the scratch with Brasso.&amp;amp;nbsp; Put some brasso on the clear side, where the scratch is.&amp;amp;nbsp; Rub with a cloth at medium pressure, preferably in radial direction (you know why).&amp;amp;nbsp; If you need to remove a deep scratch, rub in a direction crossing the scratch even if it isn&amp;amp;#039;t radial (because that works fastest), but take care to finish radially (preferably with fresh brasso).&amp;amp;nbsp; As you rub, the fine grit present in the brasso pressed between your fingers and the CD, will wear away some of the plastic layer together with its scratches. You may rub firmly to make the work advance, but hold on long enough to make sure the scratch gets removed.&amp;amp;nbsp; As the brasso gets thicker due to the worn away plastic it will get less grinding, so you might need to use fresh Brasso.&amp;amp;nbsp; Complete removal of a scratch is often not needed to make the scratch harmless.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;If you think you&amp;amp;#039;ve done enough, clean the CD with water. Be careful when you wipe off the water (this causes new scratces). A radial direction is again a good idea.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;The whole process is a matter of a few minutes. You might feel a little unsure the first time you try it, but don&amp;amp;#039;t worry, it is something easy to learn.&amp;amp;nbsp; It also may be your last resort, so what do you have to lose?&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=CD_Ripping&amp;diff=2441</id>
		<title>CD Ripping</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=CD_Ripping&amp;diff=2441"/>
		<updated>2006-03-08T18:27:22Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: This page needs major cleanup&lt;/p&gt;
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* This guide has been created using MaximumPC&amp;amp;#039;s awesome write-up, and after some further investigation on my part, some fine-tuning &amp;amp;amp; tweaking *&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;div align=&amp;quot;center&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;font-size: 15pt; line-height: 1.3em;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;text-decoration: underline;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;How To Rip CD-Quality MP3&amp;amp;#039;s&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/div&amp;gt;The secret lies in three components:&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;ul style=&amp;quot;margin-top: 0; margin-bottom: 0;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;li&amp;gt; A ripper that won&amp;amp;#039;t let bad extractions through&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&amp;lt;li&amp;gt; An encoder that delivers sparkling audio @ reasonable file sizes&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&amp;lt;li&amp;gt; A process that isn&amp;amp;#039;t a chore to complete&amp;lt;/li&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/ul&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;This process automatically (if you&amp;amp;#039;re connected to the internet) looks up your CD info on freedb.org after you insert the CD, and with a single click will rip the contents, compress the music, tag the tracks, name &amp;amp;amp; number the files, create folders for your ripped files, and put each file into the folders you set up.&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;If you want spectacular rips from your CD&amp;amp;#039;s without having to worry about reviewing every track for flaws, Exact Audio Copy is the answer to the ripper you&amp;amp;#039;re looking for.&amp;amp;nbsp; EAC double-checks every bit for accuracy against the original; if it finds discrepancies, it reads the data again, and yet again if necessary.&amp;amp;nbsp; As a result, it&amp;amp;#039;s slower than other rippers, but with the automated process you&amp;amp;#039;re going to learn, you just *Ron Popeil voice* SET IT, AND FORGET IT! &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;First, let&amp;amp;#039;s assemble the programs you are going to need.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;The currently recommended version of EAC is &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;amp;quot;Exact Audio Copy 0.9 beta 4&amp;amp;quot;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; (pre-beta versions 0.9&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;5&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;pb4 and so on are unstable, have important features removed (for &amp;amp;quot;legal reasons&amp;amp;quot;) and have known bugs involving the tags, therefore SHOULD be avoided).&amp;amp;nbsp; EAC does not have THAT version on their website, &amp;lt;del&amp;gt;so Google the phrase I put in bold quotes, and download it.&amp;lt;/del&amp;gt; &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;*edit*&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;I&amp;amp;#039;ve been alerted to the fact that finding that version of EAC is kinda hard &amp;lt;img src=&amp;quot;http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/Smileys/default/undecided.gif&amp;quot; alt=&amp;quot;Undecided&amp;quot; border=&amp;quot;0&amp;quot; /&amp;gt; and a lot of other versions similar to this come up.&amp;amp;nbsp; To tidy this up, and to point you to a stellar place for info, head on over to www DOT ubernet DOT org.&amp;amp;nbsp; While you&amp;amp;#039;re there, look around, see what&amp;amp;#039;s going on over there....those guys are SERIOUS!&amp;amp;nbsp; The EAC version you&amp;amp;#039;re looking for is available there, and they have an even MORE idetailed writeup for achieving this if you&amp;amp;#039;re willing to invest the time.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;For Windows 2000 &amp;amp;amp; XP users, download the Nero ASPI Layer DLL Driver.&amp;amp;nbsp; You must place this DLL file in the directory you will be installing EAC (Usually C:\Program Files\Exact Audio Copy). Windows 95/98/ME already has an ASPI layer built in.&amp;amp;nbsp; You can find it at &amp;lt;a href=&amp;quot;http://www.nero.com/en/ASPI_Driver.html&amp;quot; target=&amp;quot;_blank&amp;quot;&amp;gt;http://www.nero.com/en/ASPI_Driver.html&amp;lt;/a&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;You&amp;amp;#039;ll also need to download the LAME encoder.&amp;amp;nbsp; The best current version to use is &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;&amp;amp;quot;LAME v3.90.3&amp;amp;quot;&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; Again, Google the phrase I put in bold quotes, and download it (currently can be found at &amp;lt;a href=&amp;quot;http://www.rarewares.org&amp;quot; target=&amp;quot;_blank&amp;quot;&amp;gt;www.rarewares.org&amp;lt;/a&amp;gt;, but may disappear.&amp;amp;nbsp; (download the &amp;amp;quot;LAME 3.&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;90&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.3 &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;stable bundle&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; version).&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;Unzip &amp;amp;amp; install EAC, LAME &amp;amp;amp; (if needed) ASPI layer into the same directory.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;After all the software is installed, EAC needs to be configured.&amp;amp;nbsp; Put an audio CD in your CD-ROM drive BEFORE you open EAC.&amp;amp;nbsp; Launch EAC.&amp;amp;nbsp; EAC will perform an initial drive test.&amp;amp;nbsp; When asked, select Optimization for &amp;amp;quot;accurate results&amp;amp;quot;.&amp;amp;nbsp; If you have more than one CD drive, EAC will default to what it considers the best drive.&amp;amp;nbsp; You can change this in the Options menu to the drive you wish.&amp;amp;nbsp; EAC also offers to configure LAME for you.&amp;amp;nbsp; When it starts to search your drive for the LAME .exe, CANCEL the search and point EAC to it yourself to save time.&amp;amp;nbsp; When asked, select the &amp;amp;quot;standard&amp;amp;quot; LAME setting option for now (we will change this later)&amp;amp;nbsp; Last, choose the Expert interface option.&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;div align=&amp;quot;center&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;font-size: 10pt; line-height: 1.3em;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;text-decoration: underline;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Now, Some Fine Tuning&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/div&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;From the EAC --&amp;amp;gt;EAC Options menu, select the General tab and check &amp;amp;quot;On unknown CD&amp;amp;#039;s&amp;amp;quot;, then click the &amp;amp;quot;Automatically access online freedb database&amp;amp;quot; button.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;Now select the Filename tab, and under Naming scheme type &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;%A\%C\%N - %T (including the space after the %N and before the %T tag).&amp;amp;nbsp; This will result in your directory structure being set up as follows (this example is simply one of the more common ones, you may set YOURS up however you wish using the naming options):&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;Folder (Artist Name)&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;|_Subfolder (Album Name)&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; |_Number - Name.mp3 (song file)&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;Next you need to specify where all your ripped CD&amp;amp;#039;s will be sent to.&amp;amp;nbsp; Select the Directories tab, and choose &amp;amp;quot;Use this directory&amp;amp;quot;.&amp;amp;nbsp; Pick where you want EAC to put all your music folders/CD&amp;amp;#039;s.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;Go to EAC --&amp;amp;gt;Drive Options menu.&amp;amp;nbsp; The box marked &amp;amp;quot;Drive is capable of retrieving C2 error information&amp;amp;quot; might already be checked.&amp;amp;nbsp; If so, &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;UNCHECK&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; it.&amp;amp;nbsp; Inevitably it will be the one thing that causes you headaches.&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;font-size: 10pt; line-height: 1.3em;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&amp;lt;div align=&amp;quot;center&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;DO NOT UNCHECK SECURE MODE!&amp;amp;nbsp; The whole point of using EAC is its secure mode!&amp;amp;nbsp; Using Burst Mode is POINTLESS if you wish to ensure your rips are flawless!&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/div&amp;gt;[/size]&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;Go to the EAC --&amp;amp;gt;Compression Options menu.&amp;amp;nbsp; Select the External Compression tab and make sure the LAME MP3 Encoder is displayed in the &amp;amp;quot;Parameter passing scheme&amp;amp;quot; pulldown box.&amp;amp;nbsp; If it isn&amp;amp;#039;t, choose it.&amp;amp;nbsp; You will be unable to change anything else if it ISN&amp;amp;#039;T, so this step is vital.&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;You now have a choice to make.&amp;amp;nbsp; You can save your music in either constant (CBR) or variable (VBR) bit rate form.&amp;amp;nbsp; If you choose any of the VBR rates, &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;your songs MAY be unplayable in certain cases, &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;but the chance is slim&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;, and further investigation on my part leads to telling you &amp;lt;i&amp;gt;VBR is the preferred bit rate form&amp;lt;/i&amp;gt;.&amp;amp;nbsp; Why?&amp;amp;nbsp; LAME will vary the bit rate for each section of the track, i.e. silence wll be encoded at 64kbps and very complex parts may even reach 320kbps.&amp;amp;nbsp; A track encoded using a constant bit rate of 192kbps (for example) will sound far worse than a VBR file with an overall bit rate in the same region.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;By not wasting space encoding simple parts of a track at a high rate the LAME VBR setting lets more complex parts of a track be recorded in more detail, giving you a smaller file size without loss of quality.&amp;amp;nbsp; There is some disccusion over the various VBR setting that LAME has, but when it comes to VBR vs CBR there is no contest, unless you want to encode all your files with a CBR of 320.&amp;amp;nbsp; This would give you files with the same quality as VBR files but will be three times the size, so you might not even want to bother.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;Whatever your choice, either select 320 as the Bit Rate from the the &amp;amp;quot;Bit Rate&amp;amp;quot; pulldown menu if you wish to use CBR, or select 192 if you wish to use VBR &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;(selecting 320 using VBR causes a known bug)&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;.&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;If you are using VBR, in the box next to &amp;amp;quot;Additional command line options&amp;amp;quot;, &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;CUT AND PASTE&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; to enter the following:&amp;amp;nbsp; --alt-preset standard&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;This command line option is much better than normal VBR modes, specially optimized in the program code and produces a higher quality file. &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;Go to the EAC --&amp;amp;gt;freedb Options menu.&amp;amp;nbsp; Make sure your e-mail address is correct and click the &amp;amp;quot;Get active freedb server list&amp;amp;quot; button.&amp;amp;nbsp; This will probably take a while.&amp;amp;nbsp; After you have the list, the default will probably be the &amp;lt;a href=&amp;quot;http://freedb.freedb.de:80/~cddb/cddb.cgi&amp;quot; target=&amp;quot;_blank&amp;quot;&amp;gt;http://freedb.freedb.de:80/~cddb/cddb.cgi&amp;lt;/a&amp;gt; server.&amp;amp;nbsp; From the drop down menu, select a server close to you - hint - check the server name for an idea of where it&amp;amp;#039;s located.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;Now, remove the CD from your drive and double check all your settings are correct.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;div align=&amp;quot;center&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;font-size: 10pt; line-height: 1.3em;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;text-decoration: underline;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Ready, Set, Test!&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/div&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;Now that EAC is ready, let&amp;amp;#039;s rip a CD!&amp;amp;nbsp; This first rip will be a test of your configuration.&amp;amp;nbsp; Insert a CD into your drive.&amp;amp;nbsp; EAC should&amp;amp;nbsp; automatically check the freedb server for track data.&amp;amp;nbsp; If it seems like it is NOT, press Alt-G to do so.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;Highlight some tracks and hit the MP3 button.&amp;amp;nbsp; EAC will now start extracting the audio from your CD.&amp;amp;nbsp; Once the first track is complete, a black DOS window should open (that&amp;amp;#039;s your MP3 being created).&amp;amp;nbsp; Don&amp;amp;#039;t close it, it will do that automatically once it&amp;amp;#039;s done.&amp;amp;nbsp; When you&amp;amp;#039;re all done, check the folder you ripped to in order to ensure LAME is finished.&amp;amp;nbsp; If so, you should have a folder full of mp3 files ONLY.&amp;amp;nbsp; If you have .wav files or .tmp files, wait a bit until LAME is done.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;Pat yourself on the back!&amp;amp;nbsp; You&amp;amp;#039;ve just automated your CD ripping, enhanced the accuracy of the final product, and are now creating the highest quality MP3&amp;amp;#039;s possible!&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;div align=&amp;quot;center&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;font-size: 10pt; line-height: 1.3em;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;text-decoration: underline;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Normalizing Your Files&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/div&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;If you wish to normalize the volume levels from track to track (NOT recommended, unless making a &amp;amp;quot;mix CD&amp;amp;quot;) do NOT use regular normalizing software, and DO NOT normalize the original file.&amp;amp;nbsp; Create a copy of the file(s) you wish to normalize and make any changes to the copy.&amp;amp;nbsp; To normalize files that will be burnt to CD, use MP3Gain (download at &amp;lt;a href=&amp;quot;http://www.geocities.com/mp3gain&amp;quot; target=&amp;quot;_blank&amp;quot;&amp;gt;www.geocities.com/mp3gain&amp;lt;/a&amp;gt;).&amp;amp;nbsp; Do NOT use MP3Gain for any other use. &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;div align=&amp;quot;center&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;font-size: 10pt; line-height: 1.3em;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;text-decoration: underline;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Possible Problems?&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/div&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;While ripping may go quickly, please keep in mind that EAC is NOT designed to be a fast worker, it&amp;amp;#039;s meant to be a CAREFUL one instead.&amp;amp;nbsp; Depending on the condition of the CD (scratches and whatnot) and the accuracy of your drive, ripping could take a while.&amp;amp;nbsp; When the test run is finished, review your tracks.&amp;amp;nbsp; If they are blank or there are any errors, check the settings above once again.&amp;amp;nbsp; If everything checks out, PM me with questions and I&amp;amp;#039;ll see if I can help you out.&amp;amp;nbsp; If the settings look good, doulbe check to make sure (if you have Windows 2000 / XP) you have the ASPI layer installed in the EAC folder.&amp;amp;nbsp; Your PC can&amp;amp;#039;t rip music without an ASPI layer, and 99% of errors are solved by using the correct ASPI layer - again, if you are using Windows 98SE or lower, the ASPI layer will already be present, Windows 2000/XP REQUIRE that ASPI layer.&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;Also, if your CD&amp;amp;#039;s are scratched TOO badly, EAC can&amp;amp;#039;t always correct them.&amp;amp;nbsp; After a number of tries, EAC will give up its attempts to correct the error and report a Read Error or Sync Error on the log after it has finished ripping.&amp;amp;nbsp; What are some options to remove the scratches?&amp;amp;nbsp; Commercial scratch removers, such as the Skip Doctor line of products (careful, the discs used remove different amounts of material, stick with Skip Dr) work well, or you may wish to give something you may have lying around the house a go, such as Brasso or toothpaste (stick with the &amp;amp;quot;old skool&amp;amp;quot; versions or the &amp;amp;quot;whitening&amp;amp;quot; versions).&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;A CD consists of a reflective silver layer &amp;amp;#039;sandwiched&amp;amp;#039; between 2 protective layers: one on top (the label side, often decorated with text and colour) and one below (the clear side: thick transparent plastic through which you can see the reflective silver layer). The label side is thin, if a scratch on it reaches and damages the delicate reflective layer (typical is that you can locally look through the CD), the CD is broke and cannot be repaired. The clear side is so thick that scratches on it most likely will not reach the reflective layer. In the worst case they diffract laser light so that it doesn&amp;amp;#039;t reflect properly on the reflective layer, causing read trouble.&amp;amp;nbsp; This is what we try to fix with the methods listed above.&amp;amp;nbsp; These methods will generally only work for pressed CD&amp;amp;#039;s (the ones you buy in a store).&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;First, try to determine which of the (many) scratches is causing the trouble.&amp;amp;nbsp; Look for concentric scratches.&amp;amp;nbsp; These do more harm than radial scratches (concentric = parallel with the outer edge of the CD, radial = from center to outer edge). On the CD each track circles around the previous one. So, if EAC reports an error on the last track, your scratch must be near the outer edge of the CD.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;Rub the scratch with Brasso.&amp;amp;nbsp; Put some brasso on the clear side, where the scratch is.&amp;amp;nbsp; Rub with a cloth at medium pressure, preferably in radial direction (you know why).&amp;amp;nbsp; If you need to remove a deep scratch, rub in a direction crossing the scratch even if it isn&amp;amp;#039;t radial (because that works fastest), but take care to finish radially (preferably with fresh brasso).&amp;amp;nbsp; As you rub, the fine grit present in the brasso pressed between your fingers and the CD, will wear away some of the plastic layer together with its scratches. You may rub firmly to make the work advance, but hold on long enough to make sure the scratch gets removed.&amp;amp;nbsp; As the brasso gets thicker due to the worn away plastic it will get less grinding, so you might need to use fresh Brasso.&amp;amp;nbsp; Complete removal of a scratch is often not needed to make the scratch harmless.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp; &amp;amp;nbsp;If you think you&amp;amp;#039;ve done enough, clean the CD with water. Be careful when you wipe off the water (this causes new scratces). A radial direction is again a good idea.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;The whole process is a matter of a few minutes. You might feel a little unsure the first time you try it, but don&amp;amp;#039;t worry, it is something easy to learn.&amp;amp;nbsp; It also may be your last resort, so what do you have to lose?&amp;amp;nbsp;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Template:DisclaimerConstruction&amp;diff=2312</id>
		<title>Template:DisclaimerConstruction</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Template:DisclaimerConstruction&amp;diff=2312"/>
		<updated>2006-03-07T10:57:46Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{| summary=&amp;quot;Electricity disclaimer&amp;quot; align=&amp;quot;left&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;font-family:verdana; font-size:9px; background:lightyellow; color:black border: 2px; border-style: dotted; border-color:black; margin:1em;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|align=&amp;quot;center&amp;quot;|'''---DISCLAIMER---'''&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| align=&amp;quot;left&amp;quot; | This Wikipage explains how to build something using tools or recommendations on materials to use. Build Your Own Arcade Controls Wiki recommends reading the manual of the tools you are using. Also keep in mind that sawdust, glue and certain paints may be hazardous to your health: always wear safety goggles or a breathing mask when working with these kinds of materials (see also [[Safety Equipment]]). The supplier of the tools or materials might be able to advise you on this topic.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;BR&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Please note that the contents of this website is a collection of advise and experience of many hobbyists. None of the individual contributors or operators of this website can take any responsibility for the results or consequences of any the information presented on this web site.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&amp;lt;noinclude&amp;gt;[[Category:Disclaimer templates|{{PAGENAME}}]]&amp;lt;/noinclude&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;BR CLEAR=right&amp;gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Template:DisclaimerSoftware&amp;diff=2311</id>
		<title>Template:DisclaimerSoftware</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Template:DisclaimerSoftware&amp;diff=2311"/>
		<updated>2006-03-07T10:57:39Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{| summary=&amp;quot;Electricity disclaimer&amp;quot; align=&amp;quot;left&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;font-family:verdana; font-size:9px; background:lightyellow; color:black border: 2px; border-style: dotted; border-color:black; margin:1em;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|align=&amp;quot;center&amp;quot;|'''---DISCLAIMER---'''&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| align=&amp;quot;left&amp;quot; | This Wikipage explains how to install software or modify your computer's settings. Build Your Own Arcade Controls Wiki recommends reading the manuals or &amp;quot;readme&amp;quot; files of the software. If you are changing settings on your computer make sure you understand what you are doing. In doubt let a more experienced user execute the steps for you.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;BR&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Please note that the contents of this website is a collection of advise and experience of many hobbyists. None of the individual contributors or operators of this website can take any responsibility for the results or consequences of any the information presented on this web site.&lt;br /&gt;
|}&amp;lt;noinclude&amp;gt;[[Category:Disclaimer templates|{{PAGENAME}}]]&amp;lt;/noinclude&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;BR CLEAR=right&amp;gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Template:DisclaimerElectricity&amp;diff=2310</id>
		<title>Template:DisclaimerElectricity</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Template:DisclaimerElectricity&amp;diff=2310"/>
		<updated>2006-03-07T10:57:31Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{| summary=&amp;quot;Electricity disclaimer&amp;quot; align=&amp;quot;left&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;font-family:verdana; font-size:9px; background:lightyellow; color:black border: 2px; border-style: dotted; border-color:black; margin:1em;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|align=&amp;quot;center&amp;quot;|'''---DISCLAIMER---'''&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| align=&amp;quot;left&amp;quot; | This Wikipage explains how to modify or connect electric equipment. Build Your Own Arcade Controls Wiki recommends reading the manuals of the tools and equipment you are using.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;BR&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Please note that the contents of this website is a collection of advise and experience of many hobbyists. None of the individual contributors or operators of this website can take any responsibility for the results or consequences of any the information presented on this web site.&lt;br /&gt;
|}&amp;lt;noinclude&amp;gt;[[Category:Disclaimer templates|{{PAGENAME}}]]&amp;lt;/noinclude&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;BR style=&amp;quot;CLEAR:right; break:all;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Template:DisclaimerSoftware&amp;diff=2309</id>
		<title>Template:DisclaimerSoftware</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Template:DisclaimerSoftware&amp;diff=2309"/>
		<updated>2006-03-07T10:57:21Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{| summary=&amp;quot;Electricity disclaimer&amp;quot; align=&amp;quot;left&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;font-family:verdana; font-size:9px; background:lightyellow; color:black border: 2px; border-style: dotted; border-color:black; margin:1em;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|align=&amp;quot;center&amp;quot;|'''---DISCLAIMER---'''&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| align=&amp;quot;left&amp;quot; | This Wikipage explains how to install software or modify your computer's settings. Build Your Own Arcade Controls Wiki recommends reading the manuals or &amp;quot;readme&amp;quot; files of the software. If you are changing settings on your computer make sure you understand what you are doing. In doubt let a more experienced user execute the steps for you.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;BR&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Please note that the contents of this website is a collection of advise and experience of many hobbyists. None of the individual contributors or operators of this website can take any responsibility for the results or consequences of any the information presented on this web site.&lt;br /&gt;
|}&amp;lt;noinclude&amp;gt;[[Category:Disclaimer templates|{{PAGENAME}}]]&amp;lt;/noinclude&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/div&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;BR CLEAR=right&amp;gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Template:DisclaimerConstruction&amp;diff=2308</id>
		<title>Template:DisclaimerConstruction</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Template:DisclaimerConstruction&amp;diff=2308"/>
		<updated>2006-03-07T10:57:18Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{| summary=&amp;quot;Electricity disclaimer&amp;quot; align=&amp;quot;left&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;font-family:verdana; font-size:9px; background:lightyellow; color:black border: 2px; border-style: dotted; border-color:black; margin:1em;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|align=&amp;quot;center&amp;quot;|'''---DISCLAIMER---'''&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| align=&amp;quot;left&amp;quot; | This Wikipage explains how to build something using tools or recommendations on materials to use. Build Your Own Arcade Controls Wiki recommends reading the manual of the tools you are using. Also keep in mind that sawdust, glue and certain paints may be hazardous to your health: always wear safety goggles or a breathing mask when working with these kinds of materials (see also [[Safety Equipment]]). The supplier of the tools or materials might be able to advise you on this topic.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;BR&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Please note that the contents of this website is a collection of advise and experience of many hobbyists. None of the individual contributors or operators of this website can take any responsibility for the results or consequences of any the information presented on this web site.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&amp;lt;noinclude&amp;gt;[[Category:Disclaimer templates|{{PAGENAME}}]]&amp;lt;/noinclude&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/div&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;BR CLEAR=right&amp;gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Sandbox&amp;diff=2307</id>
		<title>Sandbox</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://oldwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Sandbox&amp;diff=2307"/>
		<updated>2006-03-07T10:56:39Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Mahuti: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{| summary=&amp;quot;Electricity disclaimer&amp;quot; align=&amp;quot;left&amp;quot; style=&amp;quot;font-family:verdana; font-size:9px; background:lightyellow; color:black border: 2px; border-style: dotted; border-color:black; margin:1em;&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|align=&amp;quot;center&amp;quot;|'''---DISCLAIMER---'''&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| align=&amp;quot;left&amp;quot; | This Wikipage explains how to modify or connect electric equipment. Build Your Own Arcade Controls Wiki recommends reading the manuals of the tools and equipment you are using.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;BR&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Please note that the contents of this website is a collection of advise and experience of many hobbyists. None of the individual contributors or operators of this website can take any responsibility for the results or consequences of any the information presented on this web site.&lt;br /&gt;
|}&amp;lt;noinclude&amp;gt;[[Category:Disclaimer templates|{{PAGENAME}}]]&amp;lt;/noinclude&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
blah blah blah&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mahuti</name></author>
		
	</entry>
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