Wireless Hot-swapable Trigger Stick Mod

2012-04-15T04:39:22Z

Vonjett: /* '''Wireless Hot-swappable Trigger Stick''' */

== '''Wireless Hot-swappable Trigger Stick''' ==
[[Image:WHSTSA.jpg#file|thumb|300|Complete wireless hot-swappable trigger stick assembly]]
As covered in the TRON stick wiki certain games require a joystick with one of more buttons attached. These are often called flight sticks, trigger sticks and specifically the TRON stick. The inclusion of a TRON stick on one's control panel allows the player to enjoy several games that would otherwise be difficult or impossible to play; however, the unsightly appearance of the dedicated TRON stick on the control panel has lead to the often derogatory term of Frankenpanel, which is to say a control panel that has sacrificed style and simplicity for maximum playability. To combat needless Frankenpanels a solution has been developed for the player who wants to play trigger stick games without a dedicated or periphery trigger stick build on his cabinet. That solution is the wireless hot-swappable trigger stick.

=='''Summary of Project'''==
The wireless hot-swappable trigger stick is a blue tooth enabled battery operated dual button trigger stick handle capable of being rapidly secured to and removed from a joystick shaft without the aid of tools or disassembly.

=='''Parts & Tools Required for this Project'''==
A balltop joystick with a screw top shaft - depending on anticipated use the joystick can be 4way, 8way, or dual restricted. Also digital style joysticks will work for this modification. The Groovy Game Gear Omni II and the Ultimarc Mag-Stik are both recommended as they are physically restricted joys capable or rotating between 4way and 8way restriction and both styles have successfully undergone automation modifications.

A TRON stick housing or other after market trigger stick - The style of trigger stick is subject to personal preference as nearly any trigger stick can be modded for this project. It is recommended that the trigger stick have at least a trigger and one thumb button to maximize game compatibility. Trigger sticks with digital or analog directional inputs are not recommended as this mod does not support that functionality currently. The example build uses a Max Fighter F-23U purchased from Amazon.

A blue tooth enabled presentation clicker - The core of this project relies on the hacking and integration of a wireless battery operated presentation clicker. Due to size constraints in most trigger stick housings it is recommended to get the smallest and thinnest clicker available. A two button clicker commonly sends a page-up and page-down signal. For the example build a generic Wireless USB Presentation Clicker Remote was purchased from Amazon.

A #14-20 (.25") brass female screw insert. Available online or at most local big box home improvement retailers.

A two part slow dry malleable putty

Soldering iron

Screwdrivers

Snips

22g insulated stranded wire

Superglue and/or hot glue

The following are optional items that will improve battery life and the ease in which the hot swap is executed:

22g brass sheet metal or a metal spacer from a bic or skilcraft style clicker pen.

QTY 2 .25" rare earth barrel magnets. Available at multiple online retailers the .5" length magnet is recommended to maximize hold.

Small on/off push button

Drill and bits

=='''Project Assembly'''==

Safety Advisory: Assembly of the wireless hot-swappable trigger stick requires soldering of switches and a simple circuit board. Please review all necessary safety guidelines and utilize appropriate safety equipment when dealing with and soldering electronics.

This assembly walkthrough will assume that the builder is creating a magnetic hot-swap system with battery interrupt.

'''Step 1:''' Disassemble the trigger stick housing and cut the button wires at the base of the handle. This will allow you to set the trigger stick assembly aside. Discard the base, it will not be needed for this project. You can also remove the unused switches but may need to patch and fill the plastic faceplate.
[[Image:T_S_dissassembly.jpg#file|thumb|left|Trigger stick housing removed from base]]

'''Step 2:''' Disassemble the wireless clicker removing the component board. Detach the red laser pointer housing and discard if applicable. It is a major battery suck and will not be used. To facilitate battery mounting in the trigger stick housing it is recommended that the clicker housing be trimmed down to only what is needed to hold the battery leaving the rest exposed. It's a tight fit in the trigger stick housing.
[[Image:clicker.jpg#file|thumb|left|Presentation clicker removed from housing]]

'''Step 3:''' Remove all trigger stick boards that are not related to the two buttons you are going to use and solder the wires from those buttons to the click board. At this time stop and test the connections making sure that you have a pg up and pg down signal from your new buttons. The old buttons can be removed from the clicker board before soldering of you can solder directly onto their contacts, ensure that you identify the ground and solder accordingly.
[[Image:clicker_wired.jpg#file|thumb|left|Presentation clicker wired to trigger stick buttons]]

'''Optional Step:''' At this time if you want a battery disconnect sever the positive lead to the battery and wire it through an on/off switch mounted to the trigger stick face plate.

'''Step 4 Screw on Build:''' Superglue or hot glue the clicker board into the trigger stick housing and using the two part putty secure in the female screw insert into the handle so that when screwed to the joystick handle the base of the trigger stick ends a cm above the base. Allow to dry and assemble. At this point you can screw off your ball top from the joystick and screw on this trigger stick. This concludes the screw on build.

'''Step 4 A Magnetic Build:''' Drill out the threads on the ball top joystick attachment and drill the plastic down a additional .5 inch or less depending on length of your magnet. Super glue magnet into ball top. Using the sheet metal or pen spacer fashion a small collar to remove the wiggle from your ball top. Place ball top on joystick with collar over the joystick threads. You should be able to remove ball top cleanly from handle with an upward pull but ball top should not come off even under vigorous play.
[[Image:hs_balltop.jpg#file|thumb|left|Ball top shown with metal collar slightly protruding]]

'''Step 4 B Magnetic Build:''' Drill the threads out of the female screw insert. Superglue or hot glue the clicker board into the trigger stick housing and using the two part putty secure in the female screw insert and rare earth magnet into the handle so that when placed on the joystick handle the base of the trigger stick ends a cm above the base (wrap joystick handle in plastic to facilitate removal once putty is cured). Allow to dry and assemble. At this point you can pull off your ball top from the joystick and pop on this trigger stick. This concludes the hot swap build.
[[Image:wireless_ts_explode.jpg#file|thumb|left|Unit ready for insert and magnet puttying]]

=='''Operation and Programmatic Interaction'''==
The presentation clicker dongle can be left in an USB port continuously and will register the signal from the presentation clicker after the initial signal to synch the device. One only needs to set the trigger and button values to pg up and pg down in the emulator or game is being used.

=='''Specific Implementations'''==
Below are some examples of specific implementations for a wireless hot-swappable trigger stick:

Le Chuck's Darkade http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=116602.0

==See Also==
* [[Controls]]

[[Category:Controls]]

Wireless Hot-swapable Trigger Stick Mod

2012-04-15T04:38:55Z

Vonjett: /* '''Operation and Programmatic Interaction''' */

== '''Wireless Hot-swappable Trigger Stick''' ==
[[Image:WHSTSA.jpg#file|thumb|200|Complete wireless hot-swappable trigger stick assembly]]
As covered in the TRON stick wiki certain games require a joystick with one of more buttons attached. These are often called flight sticks, trigger sticks and specifically the TRON stick. The inclusion of a TRON stick on one's control panel allows the player to enjoy several games that would otherwise be difficult or impossible to play; however, the unsightly appearance of the dedicated TRON stick on the control panel has lead to the often derogatory term of Frankenpanel, which is to say a control panel that has sacrificed style and simplicity for maximum playability. To combat needless Frankenpanels a solution has been developed for the player who wants to play trigger stick games without a dedicated or periphery trigger stick build on his cabinet. That solution is the wireless hot-swappable trigger stick.

=='''Summary of Project'''==
The wireless hot-swappable trigger stick is a blue tooth enabled battery operated dual button trigger stick handle capable of being rapidly secured to and removed from a joystick shaft without the aid of tools or disassembly.

=='''Parts & Tools Required for this Project'''==
A balltop joystick with a screw top shaft - depending on anticipated use the joystick can be 4way, 8way, or dual restricted. Also digital style joysticks will work for this modification. The Groovy Game Gear Omni II and the Ultimarc Mag-Stik are both recommended as they are physically restricted joys capable or rotating between 4way and 8way restriction and both styles have successfully undergone automation modifications.

A TRON stick housing or other after market trigger stick - The style of trigger stick is subject to personal preference as nearly any trigger stick can be modded for this project. It is recommended that the trigger stick have at least a trigger and one thumb button to maximize game compatibility. Trigger sticks with digital or analog directional inputs are not recommended as this mod does not support that functionality currently. The example build uses a Max Fighter F-23U purchased from Amazon.

A blue tooth enabled presentation clicker - The core of this project relies on the hacking and integration of a wireless battery operated presentation clicker. Due to size constraints in most trigger stick housings it is recommended to get the smallest and thinnest clicker available. A two button clicker commonly sends a page-up and page-down signal. For the example build a generic Wireless USB Presentation Clicker Remote was purchased from Amazon.

A #14-20 (.25") brass female screw insert. Available online or at most local big box home improvement retailers.

A two part slow dry malleable putty

Soldering iron

Screwdrivers

Snips

22g insulated stranded wire

Superglue and/or hot glue

The following are optional items that will improve battery life and the ease in which the hot swap is executed:

22g brass sheet metal or a metal spacer from a bic or skilcraft style clicker pen.

QTY 2 .25" rare earth barrel magnets. Available at multiple online retailers the .5" length magnet is recommended to maximize hold.

Small on/off push button

Drill and bits

=='''Project Assembly'''==

Safety Advisory: Assembly of the wireless hot-swappable trigger stick requires soldering of switches and a simple circuit board. Please review all necessary safety guidelines and utilize appropriate safety equipment when dealing with and soldering electronics.

This assembly walkthrough will assume that the builder is creating a magnetic hot-swap system with battery interrupt.

'''Step 1:''' Disassemble the trigger stick housing and cut the button wires at the base of the handle. This will allow you to set the trigger stick assembly aside. Discard the base, it will not be needed for this project. You can also remove the unused switches but may need to patch and fill the plastic faceplate.
[[Image:T_S_dissassembly.jpg#file|thumb|left|Trigger stick housing removed from base]]

'''Step 2:''' Disassemble the wireless clicker removing the component board. Detach the red laser pointer housing and discard if applicable. It is a major battery suck and will not be used. To facilitate battery mounting in the trigger stick housing it is recommended that the clicker housing be trimmed down to only what is needed to hold the battery leaving the rest exposed. It's a tight fit in the trigger stick housing.
[[Image:clicker.jpg#file|thumb|left|Presentation clicker removed from housing]]

'''Step 3:''' Remove all trigger stick boards that are not related to the two buttons you are going to use and solder the wires from those buttons to the click board. At this time stop and test the connections making sure that you have a pg up and pg down signal from your new buttons. The old buttons can be removed from the clicker board before soldering of you can solder directly onto their contacts, ensure that you identify the ground and solder accordingly.
[[Image:clicker_wired.jpg#file|thumb|left|Presentation clicker wired to trigger stick buttons]]

'''Optional Step:''' At this time if you want a battery disconnect sever the positive lead to the battery and wire it through an on/off switch mounted to the trigger stick face plate.

'''Step 4 Screw on Build:''' Superglue or hot glue the clicker board into the trigger stick housing and using the two part putty secure in the female screw insert into the handle so that when screwed to the joystick handle the base of the trigger stick ends a cm above the base. Allow to dry and assemble. At this point you can screw off your ball top from the joystick and screw on this trigger stick. This concludes the screw on build.

'''Step 4 A Magnetic Build:''' Drill out the threads on the ball top joystick attachment and drill the plastic down a additional .5 inch or less depending on length of your magnet. Super glue magnet into ball top. Using the sheet metal or pen spacer fashion a small collar to remove the wiggle from your ball top. Place ball top on joystick with collar over the joystick threads. You should be able to remove ball top cleanly from handle with an upward pull but ball top should not come off even under vigorous play.
[[Image:hs_balltop.jpg#file|thumb|left|Ball top shown with metal collar slightly protruding]]

'''Step 4 B Magnetic Build:''' Drill the threads out of the female screw insert. Superglue or hot glue the clicker board into the trigger stick housing and using the two part putty secure in the female screw insert and rare earth magnet into the handle so that when placed on the joystick handle the base of the trigger stick ends a cm above the base (wrap joystick handle in plastic to facilitate removal once putty is cured). Allow to dry and assemble. At this point you can pull off your ball top from the joystick and pop on this trigger stick. This concludes the hot swap build.
[[Image:wireless_ts_explode.jpg#file|thumb|left|Unit ready for insert and magnet puttying]]

=='''Operation and Programmatic Interaction'''==
The presentation clicker dongle can be left in an USB port continuously and will register the signal from the presentation clicker after the initial signal to synch the device. One only needs to set the trigger and button values to pg up and pg down in the emulator or game is being used.

=='''Specific Implementations'''==
Below are some examples of specific implementations for a wireless hot-swappable trigger stick:

Le Chuck's Darkade http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=116602.0

==See Also==
* [[Controls]]

[[Category:Controls]]

Wireless Hot-swapable Trigger Stick Mod

2012-04-15T04:38:37Z

Vonjett: /* '''Project Assembly''' */

Wireless Hot-swapable Trigger Stick Mod

2012-04-15T04:37:45Z

Vonjett: /* '''Operation and Programmatic Interaction''' */

Wireless Hot-swapable Trigger Stick Mod

2012-04-15T04:37:30Z

Vonjett: /* '''Operation and Programmatic Interaction''' */

Wireless Hot-swapable Trigger Stick Mod

2012-04-15T04:37:12Z

Vonjett: /* '''Project Assembly''' */

Wireless Hot-swapable Trigger Stick Mod

2012-04-15T04:34:48Z

Vonjett: /* '''Wireless Hot-swappable Trigger Stick''' */

== '''Wireless Hot-swappable Trigger Stick''' ==
[[Image:WHSTSA.jpg#file|thumb|200|Complete wireless hot-swappable trigger stick assembly]]
As covered in the TRON stick wiki certain games require a joystick with one of more buttons attached. These are often called flight sticks, trigger sticks and specifically the TRON stick. The inclusion of a TRON stick on one's control panel allows the player to enjoy several games that would otherwise be difficult or impossible to play; however, the unsightly appearance of the dedicated TRON stick on the control panel has lead to the often derogatory term of Frankenpanel, which is to say a control panel that has sacrificed style and simplicity for maximum playability. To combat needless Frankenpanels a solution has been developed for the player who wants to play trigger stick games without a dedicated or periphery trigger stick build on his cabinet. That solution is the wireless hot-swappable trigger stick.

=='''Summary of Project'''==
The wireless hot-swappable trigger stick is a blue tooth enabled battery operated dual button trigger stick handle capable of being rapidly secured to and removed from a joystick shaft without the aid of tools or disassembly.

=='''Parts & Tools Required for this Project'''==
A balltop joystick with a screw top shaft - depending on anticipated use the joystick can be 4way, 8way, or dual restricted. Also digital style joysticks will work for this modification. The Groovy Game Gear Omni II and the Ultimarc Mag-Stik are both recommended as they are physically restricted joys capable or rotating between 4way and 8way restriction and both styles have successfully undergone automation modifications.

A TRON stick housing or other after market trigger stick - The style of trigger stick is subject to personal preference as nearly any trigger stick can be modded for this project. It is recommended that the trigger stick have at least a trigger and one thumb button to maximize game compatibility. Trigger sticks with digital or analog directional inputs are not recommended as this mod does not support that functionality currently. The example build uses a Max Fighter F-23U purchased from Amazon.

A blue tooth enabled presentation clicker - The core of this project relies on the hacking and integration of a wireless battery operated presentation clicker. Due to size constraints in most trigger stick housings it is recommended to get the smallest and thinnest clicker available. A two button clicker commonly sends a page-up and page-down signal. For the example build a generic Wireless USB Presentation Clicker Remote was purchased from Amazon.

A #14-20 (.25") brass female screw insert. Available online or at most local big box home improvement retailers.

A two part slow dry malleable putty

Soldering iron

Screwdrivers

Snips

22g insulated stranded wire

Superglue and/or hot glue

The following are optional items that will improve battery life and the ease in which the hot swap is executed:

22g brass sheet metal or a metal spacer from a bic or skilcraft style clicker pen.

QTY 2 .25" rare earth barrel magnets. Available at multiple online retailers the .5" length magnet is recommended to maximize hold.

Small on/off push button

Drill and bits

=='''Project Assembly'''==

Safety Advisory: Assembly of the wireless hot-swappable trigger stick requires soldering of switches and a simple circuit board. Please review all necessary safety guidelines and utilize appropriate safety equipment when dealing with and soldering electronics.

This assembly walkthrough will assume that the builder is creating a magnetic hot-swap system with battery interrupt.

'''Step 1:''' Disassemble the trigger stick housing and cut the button wires at the base of the handle. This will allow you to set the trigger stick assembly aside. Discard the base, it will not be needed for this project. You can also remove the unused switches but may need to patch and fill the plastic faceplate.
[[Image:T_S_dissassembly.jpg#file|thumb|left|Trigger stick housing removed from base]]

'''Step 2:''' Disassemble the wireless clicker removing the component board. Detach the red laser pointer housing and discard if applicable. It is a major battery suck and will not be used. To facilitate battery mounting in the trigger stick housing it is recommended that the clicker housing be trimmed down to only what is needed to hold the battery leaving the rest exposed. It's a tight fit in the trigger stick housing.
[[Image:clicker.jpg#file|thumb|left|Presentation clicker removed from housing]]

'''Step 3:''' Remove all trigger stick boards that are not related to the two buttons you are going to use and solder the wires from those buttons to the click board. At this time stop and test the connections making sure that you have a pg up and pg down signal from your new buttons. The old buttons can be removed from the clicker board before soldering of you can solder directly onto their contacts, ensure that you identify the ground and solder accordingly.
[[Image:clicker_wired.jpg#file|thumb|left|Presentation clicker wired to trigger stick buttons]]

'''Optional Step:''' At this time if you want a battery disconnect sever the positive lead to the battery and wire it through an on/off switch mounted to the trigger stick face plate.

'''Step 4 Screw on Build:''' Superglue or hot glue the clicker board into the trigger stick housing and using the two part putty secure in the female screw insert into the handle so that when screwed to the joystick handle the base of the trigger stick ends a cm above the base. Allow to dry and assemble. At this point you can screw off your ball top from the joystick and screw on this trigger stick. This concludes the screw on build.

'''Step 4 A Magnetic Build:''' Drill out the threads on the ball top joystick attachment and drill the plastic down a additional .5 inch or less depending on length of your magnet. Super glue magnet into ball top. Using the sheet metal or pen spacer fashion a small collar to remove the wiggle from your ball top. Place ball top on joystick with collar over the joystick threads. You should be able to remove ball top cleanly from handle with an upward pull but ball top should not come off even under vigorous play.
[[Image:hs_balltop.jpg#file|thumb|left|Ball top shown with metal collar slightly protruding]]

'''Step 4 B Magnetic Build:''' Drill the threads out of the female screw insert. Superglue or hot glue the clicker board into the trigger stick housing and using the two part putty secure in the female screw insert and rare earth magnet into the handle so that when placed on the joystick handle the base of the trigger stick ends a cm above the base. Allow to dry and assemble. At this point you can pull off your ball top from the joystick and pop on this trigger stick. This concludes the hot swap build.
[[Image:wireless_ts_explode.jpg#file|thumb|left|Ball top shown with metal collar slightly protruding]]

=='''Operation and Programmatic Interaction'''==
The presentation clicker dongle can be left in an USB port continuously and will register the signal from the presentation clicker after the initial signal to synch the device. One only needs to set the trigger and button values to pg up and pg down in the emulator or game is being used.

=='''Specific Implementations'''==
Below are some examples of specific implementations for a wireless hot-swappable trigger stick:

Le Chuck's Darkade http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=116602.0

==See Also==
* [[Controls]]

[[Category:Controls]]

File:WHSTSA.jpg

2012-04-15T04:34:14Z

Vonjett:

Wireless Hot-swapable Trigger Stick Mod

2012-04-15T04:32:31Z

2012-01-31T04:13:11Z

Vonjett: Overview of materials and techniques for autmatic 4way to 8way joystick switching.

== '''Rotating Restrictor Plates''' ==
The majority of joysticks are either 8 way or 4 way restricted. This restriction is accomplished by either a restrictor plate or an actuator which serves to ensure that the proper combinations of switches are depressed based on joystick movement. For example Pac-Man utilizes a square restrictor oriented as a diamond to prevent combinations of switches from being depressed whereas Samurai Showdown uses a square restrictor oriented to allow diagonals to hit with ease. This wiki entry will deal with joysticks that have user rotatable restrictor plates for selective 4 way or 8 way play and how the user can modify those joysticks for automated switching between 4 way and 8 way use.
[edit]

=='''Joysticks used for this Modification'''==
Although several different joysticks are available with adjustable restrictor plates thus far the only two models have been documented as successfully modded to switch automatically from 4 way to 8 way mode are the Groovy Game Gear Omni II and the Ultimarc Mag-Stik. Both joysticks are equipped with a switch or post used for rotating the restrictor plate and this serves as the point of connection for the automation. While other joysticks my provide methods for selectively and automatically restricting diagonals through software such as the U360 or other digital joysticks many users prefer the tactile feedback of a physically restricted joystick it is from this that the auto rotate hack was born.
[edit]

=='''Rotating Mechanism Mechanics'''==
In order to rotate the switch or post between 4 way and 8 way automatically servos with user fabricated actuating arms have been used. There has been discussion of implementing a worm gear to drive the circular restrictor plate on the Omni II; however, to date this mod has not yet been realized. Typically a small hobby servo is mounted on the underside of the control panel and hooked via an aluminum bar to one or two joysticks. The most popular servo for this application has been the Pololu HD Standard Power Servo thanks to its high torque, smooth operation, and low cost. Properly positing the servo in line with the switch or post to translate the rotational force of the servo into the linear force needed to change the restrictor plate position is entirely dependent on the control panel layout and will change from build to build. The joystick usually needs to be modified in some way to securely attach to the actuating arm to ensure smooth operation by either adding different or additional hardware or removing some limiting factor from the restrictor plate or switching mechanism.
[edit]

=='''Rotating Mechanism Electronics'''==
To power and communicate with the servo a servo controller is required. Servo controllers can accommodate varying numbers of servos and your application will determine the type of controller needed. The majority of builds rely on one or two servos and the most popular servo controller is the Pololu Micro Maestro 6 Channel Servo Controller. This controller comes packed with a robust software package that allows commands to be send via USB to individual servos. As a note, servos have different energy consumption requirements and while some can be powered via USB not all can or should be so additional power supplies may be required depending on your build.
[edit]

=='''Programmatic Interaction'''==
Once the servo is connected to the servo controller and to the joystick via an actuating arm and the controller is connected to the computer simple commands and scripts can be sent to the servo. Initially the user will have to determine the right and left values of the servo that result in proper 4 way and 8 way actuation. Once registered either a script or simple batch files can be created that call the servo to the required position. Depending on application the user can physically call the servo to change positions by linking a key press to a script or can automate the switch through a custom script. For example the MALA frontend can utilize a plugin called JoyChoose written by DaOld Man which reads the MAME controller.ini to determine whether a game is played with a 4 way or 8 way joystick and then in turn sends the corresponding command to the servo controller. This allows the user to select a game and not worry about joystick configuration as the application will determine the restrictor plate setting required. Through the use of additional programs such as Auto Hot Key more advanced scripts can be created that allow mid-game switching between 4 way and 8 way joystick settings. An example when this utility would be convenient is TRON. TRON is an 8 way game that benefited through a specialty restrictor plate that limited but didn't prevent diagonal movement. When played with a normal 8 way joystick the light bike levels are extremely difficult to compete due to "stair stepping" a zig zag pattern created by the diagonal inputs, however; TRON does make benefit of the 8 way in two other levels. Linking the AHK Image Search capability to the servo system allows the user to automatically switch to 4 way when entering the light bike level and then automatically switch back to 8 way upon completion.
[edit]

=='''Specific Implementations'''==
Below are some examples of specific implementations for an automatically switching joystick

Le Chuck's Darkade http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=116602.0

Darth Paul's Automated Cabinet http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=116929.0

[edit]

=='''See Also'''==
TRON 4way to 8way in-game switching http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=117395.0

Darth Paul's tutorial http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=113249.0
[edit]

Controls

2012-01-31T01:19:45Z

Vonjett: /* Interfacing Controls */

__NOTOC__
{{Portal|name=Controls}}
Authentic '''Controls''' and '''Control Panels''' give you that original arcade feel. The main purpose of building your own cabinet or control panel is to interface real arcade controls to your computer with the correct [[software]] to get the total arcade experience. This page includes some possible control layouts and control types. Here's the reason most people enter this hobby; to play the games you love with actual arcade hardware, just as they were intended. There's a vast array of different controls out there...

==Control Panels==
* [[Control panel|Control Panel Overview]]
* [[Static Control Panels]]
* [[Swappable Control Panels]]
* [[Rotating Control Panels]]
* [[Modular Control Panels]]

==Arcade Control Hardware==
* [[Joysticks]]
* [[Pushbuttons]]
* [[Trackballs]]
* [[Spinners]]
* [[Light Guns]]
* [[Driving Controls]]

==Pinball Hardware==
* [[Pinball Plungers]]
* [[Tilt sensors]]

==Interfacing Controls==
Hooking up various arcade controls to a home PC can be a daunting task. Here are some of your options...
* [[Keyboard Hacks]]
* [[Encoders|Encoders]]
** [[Keyboard Encoders|Keyboard Encoders]]
** [[Gamepad Encoders|Gamepad Encoders]]
** [[Rotary Encoders|Rotary Encoders]]
** [[Optical Encoders|Optical (Mouse) Encoders]]
* [[USB Game Pad Hack]]
** [[Dual Strike Hack]]
* [[JAMMA]]
* [[Rotating Monitor]]
* [[Rotating Restrictor Plate(s)]]

==How To Videos==
[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kSdH2w1SJN4 Wiring an Arcade Control Panel for Beginners]

==See Also==
* [[Basics]]
* [[Technical design software|Software for Control Layout]]
* [[Software]]

[[Category:Index]]
[[Category:Portals]]
[[Category:Controls]]
[[Category:Basics]]