Arcade Auctions 1

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Arcade Auctions: Useful Information


Original text by: Mario D'Alessio (Written - April 27, 2001)
Reformatted, updated, and overly dramatized with permission by: MYX July 2006

NOTE: The information presented here was gathered from attending arcade auctions in the Chicago, Indianapolis, and Atlanta areas. These auctions were run by US Amusements and Super Auctions. This info may not apply to auctions at other locations or those run by other auction companies.

What is at an Arcade Auction?
At most arcade auctions, you'll find more than just video games and pinball machines. You can find all kinds of redemption equipment, money-making items such as kiddie rides, claw machines, etc., coin-operated pool tables, dart machines, air hockey games, jukebox machines, slot machines (see below) popcorn makers, soda machines, parts (locks, marquees, circuit boards, controllers, buttons, etc.), and anything else sellers want to sell. Items I have seen auctioned include slot racers and 12' racing tracks, condom machines, boom boxes, golf clubs, and pay telephones. The items you'll see the most of are video games, pinball machines, and jukeboxes.
In some states, slot machines can be auctioned. You will need to check your state's laws to find out if they can be purchased. In Illinois, slot machines have been auctioned, but these were japanese machines in which the player must hit a button for each slot wheel to stop them. As such, the machines are a game of skill rather than chance and are therefore not illegal. However, in many states it is illegal to transport ANY type of slot machine. Do your homework or buy at your own risk.
What do the games cost?
You will usually find a mix of older games and newer games. Prices vary greatly. If you want to get a general idea of prices, see the links listed at the botom of this page for lists of recient auctions and prices. However, the chances that they will be the same at the next auction are minimal. I've seen two machines (same game, similar condition) differ by over $100 at the same auction. Anything goes. In general, older games cost less except for the classics which are highly desirable. Videogames with 25" monitors usually tend to be higher priced. Large sit-down games such as racing games tend to be very high priced (relative to other items), but may still be a bargain. Also, as the auction progresses, the crowd thins out and the auctioneer gets tired, resulting is shorter bid cycles and lower prices. But again, anything goes. At the bottom of this page there are listings of previous auctions and the prices the games went for.
The auction company gets a percentage of the selling price, and this is not included in the "sold" price. So, if the auctioneer gets 13% (the usuall), and you win the bid at $100, you'll really have to pay $113 for the item. This is known as "Buyers Premium". Though kind of a drag, the auction company does need to eat.
Additionally, Uncle Sam gets his cut too. Know your State or local sales tax rate.
It is very important to remember these additional charges when you are bidding. It would be very sad if you won a game but could not pay for it because you did not figure in the BP and tax. Then the Auctioneer makes an announcement and the game is sold again. So sad. I use the tip calculator on my cell phone to figure out what the current cost actually is. I put 21% as the tip ammount (13%BP and 7 % tax). Then I just punch in the numbers and do not have to wonder in the heat of battle if my math is right.
Note: They may charge you a small percentage for using a credit card. It adds up quick.
Can I sell stuff?
Anyone can bring items to the auction to sell. If you have items you wish to auction, contact the auction company for details. Again there is a 13% fee for selling your game. So, if the item sells for $100, you get to take home $87. Sometimes there is a fee break if you bring several items. Check with the auction company for more details about selling.

A Day In the Life

Preperation
The morning of the auction, you really do not want to have anything to worry about except for getting to the auction and having a good time. So, a little preperation can help you have a great experience. The auction day is a long and somewhat tireing experience. So, plan to be there for a while (8ish in the am to start, and can go all the way up to 6:30 pm). There is a lot to do, see, and play. If you are planning to spend the day at the auction, it is a good idea to bring a cooler of drinks and enough food for 2 meals. They may not have food there, and If you have brought no food, you'll have to leave to get something and possibly miss an item you want. If you are waiting to bid on a certain machine, it could take hours for the auctioneer to reach it. If food is sold, the quality of the food is usually not very good and quite frankly a little scary (Really... how old is the nacho cheese in that warmer).
Think ahead, Do stuff the night before rather than the morning of. A low stress level makes for a much nicer morning. If you have a long drive to get there, get gas the night before. Get some food for in the car. Gather you auction gear, and put it IN THE CAR.
Finally, and I am not trying to make you feel like a little kid, but go to bed early. Nothing worse than being really tired around that much tension and noise.
Wake up
You have been very excited about the auction. you have set your alarm so you can be out of bed and to the auction house before the doors open. But, in your infinite wisdom, thought you set your alarm, you did not turn it on. You wake up feeling oddly rested. You glance over at the clock and think...Hmmm 7:30. It has been a long time since I have slept that late. Wonder what I will do toda...CRAP!!! THE AUCTION!!! (Adrenalin surge) You jump out of bed, step on the dog, the dog squeeks and in an attempt to not wake up the rest of the house you change your balance causing you to whack your toe on the dresser (hard). Trying really hard not to scream, you try make your way to the bathroom. You like it dark in your room when you sleep, I mean reall, really dark, so you do not see the laundry basket in front of you causing you to fall. Durring the fall you manage to hit your chin on the same dresser that you stubbed your toe on. The day is not starting so well. The point...don't forget to turn on your alarm. Oh, not that this ever happened to me or anything...Just a warning is all. </dramma>
The Drive
You have made it out of the house. You got gas last night. You get in your car and head towards the auction. You get there a few minutes before 8 am. This is great as you get to go in soon (ahhh the anticipation). So you make small talk with the others who also didn't stub their toe that morning either. These folks, though similar in heart, are the competition. The folks that will be driving your game price up. So now is the time to schmooz and try to get a feel for what you are up against. "So what are YOU looking for?" you might ask. They tell you 'Michael Jackson Thriller, it's a jamma you know...". Relieved, you can call them friend as it is not the game that you came for. Actually all sillyness asside, I have met some great people I still keep in touch with at these auctions. All I can say is it is a wonderful gathering of fellow nerds.
The Doors finally open 
(Not on time by the way). You know that music at the begining of the Simpsons... You know, You see clouds then kind of angelic voices (Ahhhhh)...Well that should be the sound that happens when the doors of the auction. Time to go in an see what they have. My first auction I walked in and was very much saddened to see this little row of about 15 games with a few games behind them. Sure there was a Defender sitting there (which I eventually bought). But all in all there was just so few. Then I turned my head the other direction and realized that all I had just been looking at, were the late arrivals. There were games as far as the eye could see. Now, please do not go in expecting to see pristine machines in their glory days. Most of these games are old and have seen some abuse in their day. But instead go in looking for possibilities. The BYOAC comunity is based on the idea: BUILD, RESTORE, PLAY. So see these cabs as the a playground of toys to fix up. Now, Time to go and play.
Register
At some point early in the prewiew period you should register to bid. Some companies like Super Auctions, will now let you register online. I'll say it again, make sure you do this as early as possible. The lines can get quite long and move very slowly. They will collect your home information and payment option. While you are registering, If you are unsure, ask them about the their payment options. Checks are genreally not accepted. It's either cash or credit card. You generally need to either put down a money deposit, or leave your driver's license with them. With some companies, once you have registered with them once, you do not need to leave your licence at your next auction as they have you on file. DO NOT forget to collect your licence at the end of the day.

The Preview Period

There is a preview period before the start of the auction during which time you can power up the games and try them out. Most previews start at 8am and end when the auction opens. Most auctions are scheduled to start at 10am, but they almost always start late. Also, games are often still brought in during the preview period, so don't be too discouraged if there are not too many games when you arrive at 8am. Bring a very long extension cord to try out the games during the preview period. The places are usually very big, and outlets are often only located on the outer walls of the building. Bring a powerstrip or a multi-tap so that you can plug in multiple games or share an outlet with others (there are usually only a few outlets).

The preview period is where the fun really starts. It is a large room full of folks running around with their extension cords all looking for some little scrap of electricity to make their game turn on. You see a cluster of folks. Someone has found juice. You make your way through the huddle and find a wad of A/C splitters connected to other A/C splitters connected to powerstrips connected to other power strips, and all this is comming out of one outlet. You run your extension cord to your game. There is generally a 2 rows back to back, with a space of about 2 feet between the rows. so you make your way down the corridor of the butt sides of all the machines. This is a great place to get an idea of the condition of the machine. Often folks clean up the fronts but neglect the back ends. Just FYI. So, you get to your machine, you look on the floor and there is a scramble of plugs. so you sort out all the plugs and plug in the machine. You hear the screen zap to life so you know it came on. After a run around to the front side you realize you plugged in the machine next to the one you wanted. This is the way it goes. Finally you get your game to work. You get to play the game. Ghaw what fun. Playing the real thing, not some flash simulated web browser knock up, but the real thing. You mark down the lot number of the game and mark that it plays well. Then off to another game. Back to the plug dungeon. You plug in your next game. you coin it up and are just about to play when all the sudden all the power to about 60 games just stops. The room goes suddenly quiet. well for a second that is because the silence is usually followed by a universal...Hey man what the f...Heck happend. I find this funny. Watching people get upset when it is NEVER a good idea to plug that many things into 1 outlet. But the anger dissapates as soon as someone finds the breaker. It is a cycle that happens often throughout the morning.

Bring pen and paper to jot notes. There may be a number of a particular game and you want to know which worked and which didn't. All items being auctioned are numbered, which helps in tracking the items. the numbered item(s) are called "Lots". Sometimes the auctioneer will print a list of all items, so find out if one's available and get a copy. This is also useful for tracking selling prices. Just be aware that because pieces are still being brought in that morning, the list may not be complete. The numbers do not indicate the order by which things are auctioned.

When the preview period ends, sometimes you are asked not to power up or open anything (But if not...GAME ON!!!)

BTW, A game is considered working "all the way" if it powers up, and video games show a picture (even a horrible picture, as most bad pictures can be corrected with monitor adjustments or cheap fixes).

Things to look for when you preview a game

  • Check out the cosmetic condition of the item.
  • Check the operational condition: buttons and controls work, monitor and picture quality, LED lights on pinball scores, etc.
  • Open the coin doors (if not locked) and take a good look inside. A flashlight is useful for looking around. Check for existance of all necessary parts, manuals, coins, dead mice, water damage, etc.
  • Power up the machine. For video games, look for toggle switches on top, in back, or on the lower sides of the machines. For pinball games, look underneath or on top of the back portion of the game, or on the lower right side for some older machines. Rarely are power switches inside the coin doors.
  • If a game powers up, play the game. To do this, you'll have to coin up (credit) the machine. If the coin doors are not locked,look inside for a credit switch. Otherwise, you can trigger a credit by triggering the coin detecting mechanism. It's difficult to explain here in text, so if you don't know how to do this, ask around. Someone should be able to help. You'll also find out if the coin mechanisms work at all. If you care about the coin mechs, try triggering them by inserting a quarter (which you'll be able to take back if the coin doors are open).
  • You are usually asked not to open the backs of video games. Even if you are not asked, it's best to avoid doing this! It's too easy for the back panel to fall and break the neck of the monitor. With many people moving around the games, mistakes will happen. Also, you may be mistaken for sabotaging the machine and be kicked out of the auction (it's happened). Once you purchase a game, then you can do whatever you want with it.
  • Many 3+ player videogames have oversized control panels which are wider than the body of the game. These can usually be removed for easier transport, and for fitting the game through your door. Make sure you check for this unless you have plenty of room in your vehicle, and the game's destination has a large enough entranceway. If you disconnect the panel, be sure to mark the connectors for easy reassembly.
  • Many games are conversions. A conversion came from the factory as one game, and was later converted into another game by an operator. If you are interested in originals only, make sure you check if the game is a conversion. For example, a Mortal Kombat may have been created from a Centipede cabinet (oh, the pain!). Some games look like nothing more than a combination of spare parts. Go to the KLOV site (see below) for info on video games and pics of originals. Also be aware that if a game is a conversion, it may be a different size than you first thought. So don't forget to measure it.
  • For pinball machines, make sure you check if the back of the machine folds down or disconnects (not all do, or are troublesome to disconnect). Otherwise, you may have a tough time fitting the machine in your vehicle (if the back doesn't come down, it may not even fit into a full-sized van). On most pinballs, the legs can be removed for easier transport. Bring tools to undo any bolts (wrench, screwdrivers, etc.)
  • Check the condition of the plastics on pinball machine playfields, especially the ramps. Broken parts can be very expensive to replace. If the game has an LED dot matrix display, be sure to check this as these are very expensive as well.
  • For dart machines, power up the machine and start a game. Hit dartboard segments to see if they register. Some may be dead, or the whole dartboard may be dead. Some don't play cricket (a very popular dart game), so check this if you want it.
  • For jukeboxes, check if it plays records (45s) or CDs. Check if the 45s or CDs are included. Often, boxes of records or CDs are auctioned separately. Since 45s are no longer made, the jukeboxes that play them tend to be cheaper, but the 45s themselves tend to be more expensive and tougher to find.

The Auction Begins

Usually they will make a few announcements that the auction is about to begin. If you have not registered, DO IT NOW. You do not want to be standing in line and watch all those games slip away.

The bidding usually goes like this: The auctioneer will offer a starting price or an "opening bid". If nobody accepts this bid, he will lower the opening bid until someone accepts his offer. Once the offer is accepted, the auctioneer will ask for the next incremental bid. The bid increments vary depending on the average cost of the items. For most games, the increments are usually $25, and may be $12.50 when things get heated. Listen to the auctioneer at the start of the auction. You'll look like a fool if you bid $301 when the price is currently $300. The price will go up and up if people keep bidding. Once the bidding has plateued and one person has accepted a bid that no one else will chalenge, the auctioneer will close out the battle by saying "going... going.... SOLD", (or "Gone"). At this point no more bids will be taken (no mater how much you beg). The last person to make a bid (i.e. the one willing to pay the most for the item in question) "wins" the bid and gets the item. They will ask you for your buyer number. They record your number and give it to the cashier. There is no backing out at this point. If you do try to back out, they will make an announcement, everyone will look at you and groan, and depending on the reason for the backout, the may take your number. Bidding then proceeds to the next item and the cycle repeats.

If you realize that you were bidding on the wrong game (it happens) tell the auctioneer immediatly. You do not want to get stuck with the cruddy conversion of solitare, when you thought you were bidding on the mint Tron right next to it.

Someone often works ahead of the auctioneer to power up the games, and they sometimes get non-working games running again. If a game does not power up, the auction company may get it working during the auction. This could be a good thing (if you wanted a working game), or a bad thing (if you were hoping to get the game cheap).

LISTEN CAREFULLY TO THE AUCTIONEER DURING THE COURSE OF THE AUCTION

  • Listen for the condition of the game as described by the auctioneer. This is especially useful if you missed it during the preview period, or missed the preview period entirely. I've seen a lady bid high for a Ms. Pac-Man, but she never heard the auctioneer say that it has no monitor or game board, and she couldn't see it due to the crowd of people.
  • The auctioneer may set up some bidding rules on particular items. Observe the auction numbers on items. If there is a single number for a group of items, they will most likely be auctioned for one bid. Often when there are more than one of a particular item in similar condition, the auctioneer will have people bid on the items, but give the winning bidder a CHOICE of the one or more of the items, EACH at the cost of the winning bid. Be careful. I've seen people think they are getting all of the items for the winning price, and they bid too high.
  • One thing to accept with a grain of salt (i.e. don't believe), is when an auctioneer says that a game is rare. The word "rare" is so often misused, it's become meaningless. Yes, some items they say are rare are truly rare, but most often not. Just use your own judgement and guidelines.
  • If you stop bidding because the bid price gets too high for you, hoping to get the next one at a lower cost, you may lose any chance of getting any of the items if the winner grabs all of the items. I've seen operators win a bid, and then take every one of the items. If you really want one of the items, you may have to be the high bidder the first time; and if you don't take them all, the next bidder may get the items for a lot less. It's a gamble.
Example: if there are 4 boxes of CDs, and the winning bid is $50, the winner may pick one of the boxes for the $50, or choose any 2 for a total of $100, or all for $200.
  • NOTE: Many times the owner of an item will bid on his/her own item in an attempt to reach a higher price. Sometimes the owner will buy back their own items. This is cleverly named, a "buyback". After a while you can learn to spot these people, and if you notice that they are the only ones bidding against you, don't get caught up in "auction fever" and end up spending more than you really wanted to. Buyer beware.

During the auction, the auctioneer and the mass of people will move from game to game. With a hugh crowd, this gets uncomfortable and tiring. If you are interested in a particular game, you may want to move ahead of the crowd and stand near the game so you're close up when it's auctioned and you can hear what the auctioneer is saying. The quality of their PA systems is often poor, and the large rooms have a lot of echo. Bottom line, it is hard to hear a lot of the time.

Whatever isn't chosen is auctioned again. Games are sold "as is". Period!

Please be courteous to winning bidders. Nothing makes the moment more awkward than a sore looser making his unhappiness known. Auctions are meant to be fun, not confrontational. Also...Do not play with the games that already have been won. (Unless you won it).

After the Auction

How do I pay?
It's cheaper to pay cash. Again, there is sometimes a fee for paying with credit card. Usually it is about 5%. As with the auctioneer's take, this is NOT included in the "sold" price. Cash is best, so bring lots of it!
I won and wanna go home.
After winning an item, you can pay for it and haul it away at any time during the auction. The most you will have to wait is for the auctioneers to get the selling information input into their computer systems. So, maybe give them at least a half-hour before you wait in line to pay.
How long do I have to get my stuff out of there?
Purchased items have to be out of the building by a certain time. Make sure you ask for this time. When bidding, be sure to keep this in mind so that you give yourself enough time to get your items out. There may be only one large exit, and other people's vehicles may be pulled up to it, meaning that you have to wait your turn to get out. Don't be caught short on time.

Getting the Games Home

How do I get my games home?
Besides money, the most important (and often neglected) item to bring to the auction is proper transportation for hauling your purchased items. Make sure you have a vehicle which can handle the items you are planning on buying. Always try to account for more room than you think you really need; not only for a safety margin, but also for those unexpected deals that pop up. Be sure to bring a tape measure and make sure you measure your vehicle's dimensions. You don't want to purchase a game only to find out later that it won't fit in your vehicle. Games usually have to be out of the place by a certain time the same day, and then you'll be stuck. Be sure to check out every game you are interested in purchasing during the preview period (see below for more info on preview periods). Try to attend with at least one other person so that they can help you move your purchased items. The items may be big and difficult for one person to move. Bring a dolly, and make sure it's strong enough to handle the weight of the machines.
BTW, If you are renting a vehicle (Uhaul, Ryder, etc.), be sure to check out cost and conditions for milage, out-of-state transport, one-way use, and those sorts of things.
Can the auction company deliver my games to my home?
At many auctions, some operators will offer to transport games in the general vicinity of the auction for a fee. The auction company often makes an announcement before the start of the auction to notify people of anyone offering this service. If you decide to go this route, be sure to get all details ahead of time (cost, insurance, what if they break an item, etc.). The auction company has no part to play in this; they just announce the names of those offering this service. Use at your own risk.
Note about Movers at the Auction... I have had a bad experience with the delivery people not really taking care with the items being transported. In fact, we hired them to deliver a garage full of games. They grabbed all the wrong places, jerked, thumped and whacked, the machines in every way they do not want to be. When they put the machines on the back gate of the truck, they dropped the gate so hard I swore pieces should have fallen off. When they were moving our Lethal Inforcers in the garage, the guy did not want to get the machine back on the dolly, so he rotated the cab on a corner and broke off the corner protector and about 3 inches of the corner. Not even an "sorry". Lastly, not all the pieces of the air hockey table we bought, showed up. They said that they would go back and look for the parts then bring them back, But we never saw them again. - MYX
Removal of your purchased games
  • Bring items to secure any games in your vehicle (rope, tie downs, etc.). If your vehicle is uncovered, bring enough tarps to protect your games from the weather. Make sure the items are loaded and secured so that they will not move at all during transport. Otherwise they will get banged up or broken when you accelerate and brake the vehicle.
Videogames
Videogames are top-heavy and tip easily. If you are moving one with a dolly, be sure to keep it level unless you have someone holding it upright. Stressing the point again: VIDEOGAMES TIP EASILY!
When loading videogames and pinball machines on an uncovered vehicle, be sure to not face the front of the machines forward. The pressure of the wind when moving at highway speeds may break the glass.
Pinball Machines
Pinball machines are difficult to move. You most likely will not be able to use a dolly with them. If you're lucky, you may be able to borrow a pinball machine mover; otherwise, you'll end up carrying it to your vehicle, and they are HEAVY! When transporting a pinball machine, it's probably best to not remove the backglass (the glass with the artwork which faces you and has the scores) or topglass (the glass covering the playfield). It's too easy to drop them. If you do remove, avoid placing them flat on a hard surface; stand them up. If they do break, they usually shatter into a million pieces. Backglasses can be extremely difficult to replace as parts are hard to find, no longer being made, or are repro which are also expensive. If the back of the machine folds down onto the body of the pinball machine, place cardboard or a blanket within the fold to keep the parts from touching, and to cushion them.
Dart Machines
Most dart machines can be separated into two pieces (top and bottom). Check for this. If you end up disassembling a dart machine, be very careful when doing this as the top can easily tip off and crash to the floor. Also note all connections so it will be easier to reconnect later.

Most arcade auctions are run by US Amusements or Super Auctions. Their web sites are:
http://www.usamusements.com
http://www.superauctions.com

Quick List for the Auction

Here is a list of things that would be very helpfull for your arcade experience. This is not a complete list, nor do you necessarily need everything on this list. It is just to quickly get you up and running.

  1. Money (duh!)
  2. Proper transportation (You want to get your game home)
  3. Toll money
  4. Driving directions to auction location (Trust me! Use Map Quest or MSN MapPoint)
  5. Road map (So when MapPoint fails you can find your way back)
  6. Flashlight
  7. Tools (phillips & spade screwdrivers, socket set, pliers, etc.)
  8. Knife
  9. Tape measure
  10. Long (e.g. 100') extension cord
  11. Multi-tap or powerstrip
  12. Calculator (hmmm, $125 + 10% + 3% + 8%...) Or use your tip calculator on your cell phone.
  13. Pen
  14. Paper
  15. Clipboard
  16. List of games indicating which are JAMMA
  17. Fine point permanent marker (to mark items during disassembly)
  18. Tarps
  19. Moving blankets
  20. Duct tape
  21. Long rope
  22. Tie downs/Bungee cords
  23. Dolly and straps
  24. Cellulin wrap
  25. Walkie-talkies and extra batteries (to keep in touch with others if it's a big place, or if traveling in multiple vehicles)
  26. Cell Phone
  27. Camera
  28. Portable chair (often there isn't anywhere to sit)
  29. Handi-wipes (bathrooms don't always have soap)
  30. Cooler with Lunch / Sodas ("pop" for you northerners) / water

Also I recommend putting your name on everything. you take as there are a LOT of people with similar stuff.

Actual Auction Prices

It is sometimes nice to see ahead of time, how much to expect to pay for their favorite game. Below are from auctions that the BYOAC community have been to and have recorded the prices.

For your benefit and the benefit of other collectors out there, it's very helpful to take pictures and keep track of prices and then post this information on the here. Digital cameras and cell phone cameras are especially useful for this. If you meet other collectors at the auction, divide up the task of writing down the prices as it can be quite taxing to do this the whole day.
Note: some companies do not allow you to take pictures. Apparently there was some trouble some time back with one attender taking pictures of another attenders daughter.